Multi-conductor cables... HELP!

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Boerderij_Kabouter

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I want a cable that has at least 22 conductors and each can carry a load of 10vdc at 1amp. I also want panel mount connectors.

Basically, I want to connect a remote control panel to a systems main "brain" panel and I have 22 IO connections.

Help me, oh infinitely wise HBT!

:drunk:

The only thing I have come up with is DB25 serial cable but I am not sure about that... I feel like it might have too small gauge conductors, and I might have problems with EM disturbances...

help...
 
Do you have 22 conductors (11 pairs) or 22 Pairs, (44 conductors?)

Here's 22 conductors. (acutally 24)

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMvf6myxbP4FpB13aibNYAt%2bMtIcq5zmzcs=

The plugs (once you get all the pieces for each) end up being about $20 per. So you're looking at $80, plus cable. (panel mount -> cable end cable end-> panel mount)

10v 1a? look for mic cable. It depends on how far you're running it though.

I have about 70' of this stuff, it's 8 shielded pairs, with individual grounds. (8x3 so 24 total)
http://www.kvconnection.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=T-MG-2932&click=4099
 
I freaking hate mouser... I don't think I could come up with a more cryptic catalog and online store if I tried. I can never figure out what I actually need from there...

What do you guys think of McMaster #3240K24

Basically it is a big ass block and I could wire my wires into it then wrap them in PET braid.

Otherwise I am going to need some serious hand holding on the mouser thing. That is exactly what I was looking for, I just don't know how to figure out all the components I need.
 
that Mcmaster part is okay, but you're gonna spend about $400 in connectors. If you've got that much cash, lemme come up with a few more options. (I work with a bunch of different cables and can give you lots of options)

How long do you need the cable?
What gender connection do you need on each part?:
I'm guessing if you're running power you'll have females at home and a male-female cable.
Home box panel mount:
Cable end home:
Cable end remote:
Remote panel mount:

What's your budget? What do you have to spend and what would you like to spend?

B
 
If you've got some cash to burn, buy premade. If you've got time and less cash, build it yourself!

http://www.ramtechinternational.com/resources/SNKCPCgmd.jpg

25' cable retails around $300. I can call and get an actual price for you. I'm guessing about $225. You can probably buy pre-made panel connectors with 3' wires connected. I can check on prices for those as well.
 
Get the kind of cable that runs from the furnace to the thermostat in your house. I believe it has 8 conductors so do 3 runs of it, 24 wires. Available at home depot/lowes. You can even neatly wrap the 3 cables in electric tape to make it look like 1 cable. I believe the wires are 16 or 18 gauge.
 
Here you go:
http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=25085

26 gage is good up to 2A. I have lots of experience with L-com. I use them professionally on a regular basis. Highly recommended.

Here's a 25 ft. cable or the same type:
http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=5885
You can't go wrong with D-SUB connectors. They're industry standard and panel mounts are abundant. If you need flying leads don't be afraid to cut off one of the connectors. The wires are color coded and the data sheets on the web site will show you the pinout for each wire.
 
Hi guys. I need about 10' of cable.

Main panel: pig tail, I do not need a connection. If I have to, it doesn't matter. Lets say male receptacle
main cable end: pig tail, else female plug
remote cable end: female plug
remote panel: male receptacle

I need a total of 22 wires. One will be power in to the remote box carrying 6-10vdc at a minimum of 0.66A and I would say a max of about 1A. Another will be a ground plane. 8 contacts will be for various switch loads which will power SSRs, and 12 contacts will be for NTC thermistors.

Maybe that helps. Thanks for the links guys I will look into those.
 
It would really make my life easier if that DB25 cable could do the job.

This would be ideal:

1ea. male-male gender changer: http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=3157&cmp=ALSOS
1ea. female-female gender changer: http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=3156
2ea. female-male DB25 cable 10': http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=5882

Then I can cut the second cord in half as suggested by bad coffee. That makes my life super easy and it would be clean.

So I won't have interference or crossover problems with the DB25 with all sorts of signal passing through. It will all be DC, so that helps I think.
 
Can you pigtail out of both the main and remote boxes? if so, you can get rid of the gender changers and just use the cable. Drill a hole in the box and add one of these:
DEC_2601.jpg


No milling out for the db25!

B
 
I think I like the idea of the regular DB25 cord. Then if the configuration changes, all you need is a different length cord to move the remote box farther/closer away from the brain box.

So no concern about interference?
 
Did you ever figure out if this would work? I'm looking at a similar solution for supplying my 10 valves. 1 Valve has a 1.5A rating and the other 9 are 80mA. I also have a small DC motor that will be stirring my HEX tank that's 60mA no load. I'd like keep the number of holes I cut into my control panel to a minimum so I'm curious to see if you found this to be a good solution.

I'm thinking about mounting one female connector to my stand in the middle towards the back and running all the valves there for a central termination point and then putting another female in the panel with a male male cord between the 2.
 
Definitely. The DB25 is awesome. The interface is slick. I bought two cords, and some adapters for going through the cases.

The hole was a pain to cut though because it is small and oddly shaped.

Cheers!
 
Definitely. The DB25 is awesome. The interface is slick. I bought two cords, and some adapters for going through the cases.

The hole was a pain to cut though because it is small and oddly shaped.

Cheers!

One hole that's a pain is still better than 11 holes IMHO!

I think I saw a watertight version, but it didn't have the screw terminals, just solder lugs. Decisions decisions................
 
In my case, I have a high voltage control box mounted within the brewery and a remote control box with the switches and controller. The DB25 cable connects the remote box to the high voltage box.

My DB25 carries, power in, ground, common, 4 sensor feedback loops, and control lines for 5 control operations (off the top of my head).
 
Looks great! That's a BCS isn't it?

I opted for BrewTroller and am having a bit of buyers remorse since I'm not very good at the low voltage side of the wiring. I'm starting to figure things out SLOWLY, but getting things figured out none the less. The only thing I'm still a little cloudy on is how to connect the BT outputs to my 3 position selector switches for the pumps, HLT, HEX, and BK.
 
IIRC, the BT has a 5v output and its logic outputs use 5v also??? If that is the case, it is super easy. Just link the 5v output (common) to the hand position on the selector, and the auto outs to the auto position on the selector.

I hope that makes sense. Then, you are either operating independent of the logic, or using the logic.
 
IIRC, the BT has a 5v output and its logic outputs use 5v also??? If that is the case, it is super easy. Just link the 5v output (common) to the hand position on the selector, and the auto outs to the auto position on the selector.

I hope that makes sense. Then, you are either operating independent of the logic, or using the logic.


It does make sense, but BT is 12V.

There are 3 pin headers designed to be connected to SPDT switches which have 3 pin terminals on the switch. I'm wiring my vaves and stir motors this way with no problem. See the drawing below.
Terminal 1 is BrewTroller
Terminal 2 is Relay
Terminal 3 is Ground
The BrewTroller brings all of it's output to ground when they are "ON" so like on heat outputs you'll be putting the negative lead from the SSR to the BT and 12V to the + lead.
valve%20and%20pump%20wiring-Model1.jpg


Where my confusion comes in is how this translates to the 4 connection points on the 2 NO contacts that are used on the 3 position selector switches. Still having a hard time getting that to sink into my thick skull.

This is where my Dad would tell me "you may not be very good but you sure are slow" :D
 
I've got a crapload of 22 gauge audio snake cable laying around - Several hundred feet of I think 20 channel. So that's 20 individually shielded pairs (40 insulated wires, shielded in pairs, each with a bare drain wire). A quick check says it should be rated for .92 amps, but you could always gang up conductors.

I'll lop some off for you for the cost of shipping.
 
I want a cable that has at least 22 conductors and each can carry a load of 10vdc at 1amp. I also want panel mount connectors.

Basically, I want to connect a remote control panel to a systems main "brain" panel and I have 22 IO connections.

I want a girl with a short skirt and a looooooooooonnnnngggg jacket. :D
 
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