egurney
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- Apr 26, 2008
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I'm finishing up version 1.0 of my CP diagram. I had a couple of questions on the best way to wire something up.
Due to Amp restrictions, I am going to have a selector switch to switch between my HLT and BK. Right now I have that switch controlling 2 2-pole 40A 120V contactors (BK, and HLT) to give power to each respective SSR set. From a safety aspect I think that is the best way to go, as opposed to switching the DC from the PID.
In conjunction with that, on the HLT (10G cooler), I am going to put in a float switch to turn off the element if the water level gets to close. The output there is low amp 120V, and I am hooking that up to another contactor again to cut power to the respective SSR set.
Looks kind of like this:
Contactor 1 (HLT/BK Selector) -> Contactor 2 (Float Switch) - > SSRs
Contactor 3 (HLT/BK Selector) -> SSRs
From reading the millions of threads on this subject, it seems that when a SSR fails, it fails in the open position. By using the contactors, there is no way for an element that should be off to get power. That's my understanding and thinking anyway...
Does this seem to be the best way to go, or is there a better route.
Thanks,
Eric
Due to Amp restrictions, I am going to have a selector switch to switch between my HLT and BK. Right now I have that switch controlling 2 2-pole 40A 120V contactors (BK, and HLT) to give power to each respective SSR set. From a safety aspect I think that is the best way to go, as opposed to switching the DC from the PID.
In conjunction with that, on the HLT (10G cooler), I am going to put in a float switch to turn off the element if the water level gets to close. The output there is low amp 120V, and I am hooking that up to another contactor again to cut power to the respective SSR set.
Looks kind of like this:
Contactor 1 (HLT/BK Selector) -> Contactor 2 (Float Switch) - > SSRs
Contactor 3 (HLT/BK Selector) -> SSRs
From reading the millions of threads on this subject, it seems that when a SSR fails, it fails in the open position. By using the contactors, there is no way for an element that should be off to get power. That's my understanding and thinking anyway...
Does this seem to be the best way to go, or is there a better route.
Thanks,
Eric