"Hop Tea" method for adding aromatics

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I was thinking that 4-6 cups of water might not have been enough volume for 3oz of hops.?...since 1oz seemed to have worked better.

+1. Thats *A LOT* of hops in 4-6 cups.

According to Designing Great Beers by Gordon Strong ( page 78 bottom left column - page 78 top right column) the water can become saturated and additional alpha-acids wont be absorbed, so that additional hops will have minimal impact.

Perhaps a better test is to make 3 batches of hop tea, and add them in, but that's a lot of extra water, so you will need to have less in your initial fermentor.
 
We make hop teas using fermented beer and they add aroma, flavor and some bitterness. Depending on the level of bitterness we want in the tea we warm up the beer a bit around 110-120. A half hour steep time does the trick.

How much hops do you add per volume of beer and how much water do you steep them in?

I recently brewed with a hop spider for the first time and had very disappointing results. I think the mesh bag I used on the spider was too fine and the oils didn't make it through. Tastes like an old IPA. I am thinking of adding a hop press to try to save the batch.
 
The problem comes in where the op already has the beer in primary. I was attempting to give him a way to add some hop flavor without adding too much extra volume.
I mentioned straight away that I did hop teas in the BK with the boiling water I was going to use to mix up the kit-n-kilo with. Since he's already past that point,another way was needed.
 
Hey all, not to dig up an old post but does anyone have anymore feed back on these methods of making a hop tea? Specifically, I'm wondering if anyone's worked out a successful volume to hop ratio and temperature when using the french press method.
 
Hey all, not to dig up an old post but does anyone have anymore feed back on these methods of making a hop tea? Specifically, I'm wondering if anyone's worked out a successful volume to hop ratio and temperature when using the french press method.

From my experience, the volume doesn't play that big of a role. With more water, you might get a slightly higher extraction rate but you will just be diluting the beer that much more. Think of it as a coffee press, less water the stronger it is.

I have had decent results using the press and making a hop tea. It's not something I would add to my bag of hopping techniques but I did save a beer. I brewed a beer that was under hopped and had plans for the drain. I did a hop press and it added some unique hop flavors. But I would save the precious hops and add them to flameout or whirlpool. Just my own opinion.
 
I am a firm believer that a great IPA is hopped at every opportunity possible. That means stating with a first wort hop addition and finishing with a hop tea priming and everything in between that includes dry hopping. Remember a great IPA has a a great hop depth that can satisfy all of your sences.
 
Are you supposed to use whole leaf or pellet? I tried this once with pellet and got the aroma I was looking for, but in making it the screen plugged up and fluid started squirting up the sides. It was really hard to press and I went ahead and let hop debris get into my bottling bucket. Mostly, there weren't but a few specks in each bottle. Do you just press really slow?
 
I had no problems with that issue. You may either need a better press or try less hops and liquid in the press and do two pressing if necessary.
 
I have a Keurig K-cup brewer with the fine mesh basket attachment so you can use your own coffee. Would I be able to make a decent hop tea with this thing?

The hops wouldn't be steeped per se, because the hot water (~170F) just gets pumped through the basket. But I suppose if I make one cup, wait 15 minutes, and make a second cup, it would let the hops soak a bit. Thoughts?
 
We make hop teas using fermented beer and they add aroma, flavor and some bitterness. Depending on the level of bitterness we want in the tea we warm up the beer a bit around 110-120. A half hour steep time does the trick.

How much fermented beer and hops would I need to add flavor & aroma to a 4.5 gallon batch? My Chinook is around 12 AA>
 
Found this on the net
Digging it a lot
One oz hops (I like the bittering Varities) more grapefruit taste.
The aroma hops leave me with floral experience
Anyway one oz hop in a French press
Add 2 cups of vodka( I like the lemon Burnetts )
Let stand for 20 minutes
Press into a small neck liqure bottle ( I use Patrone bottles )
Same hops, which are changed from pellets to mash now
Add 2 cups of water and let stand for 20 minutes
Press and add to the hopped vodka
Place lop on bottle , cork etc and shake
Place in fridge for 5 days , ok four if you must
Let the particulant cold crash - don't stir it back up
Carefully place it in the freezer untill frozen
Remove from freezer, place bottle upside down in one quart mason jar
The first 45% will be hop Vodka
Notice the frozen ice acts as a strainer for remaining particulant
Put frozen concoction in another jar for hop water
Just before it melts to the point where the course particulant falls through the neck of the bottls dis guard the last 15 % or so ( I drink it ) cloudy stuff
The hop vodka can be used to make a simple craft IPA or IBA
Same with the hop water bring a couple buddies over to kill the hop water with a cheap six pack of old Milwalkee
. You will be amazed how good that can taste!
It also make a good addition to the secondary just prior to legging or bottling.
The hop Vodka is the real thing, as it really extracts the majority of the hop oil with the liqure. I would not try to sip it -STRONG and your toothbrush will taste like that from now on!
Just add to taste to your favorite BMC for a sudo craft beer on the cheap.
What I have learned form doing this is flavor profile of different Varities of hops.
It is a real tutorial of what each hops brings to the party when brewing.
This is serious fun and a great way to use last years hops.
If you want to have a citrus flavor try the bittering hops first.
Another thing I have discovered is, if you have a brew that is close but falls short of your taste, add HOP vodka and really brighten it up.
Enjoy!
 
My system of brewing means all hop additions are from 20 minutes or less (hop bursting or late hopping) along with a massive flameout and whirlpool addition. Finally, I would dry hop. Even with this system my first time using a hop tea really made a difference. I add it to the secondary before I rake.

I just got my blinged out 8oz french press and might consider a second tea at bottling. I use the 170 - room temp steeping method.

Old post, but I see you are "active." Do you still do this?

I see some were using the bottling sugar solution to make a hop tea, and I am considering trying this with whole hops. I'm wondering how much sugar I will lose in the process. I'm concerned I may under-carbonate. Any help on that question?
 
Sometimes...did it too batches ago. I am not planning on doing it this time on my IIPA. I'd be a little hesitant to do it with the bottling sugar as you have no idea what makes it through to the bucket but people have done it.
 
Great idea! I will def try this. Thanks. Did they carbonate correct...no sugars lost in the steeping?
 
Great idea! I will def try this. Thanks. Did they carbonate correct...no sugars lost in the steeping?

It carbonated fine. Like I said before; it is important to add hops at as many places as possible. I will add more to this discussion in the near future.
 
We make hop teas using fermented beer and they add aroma, flavor and some bitterness. Depending on the level of bitterness we want in the tea we warm up the beer a bit around 110-120. A half hour steep time does the trick.

Hi flatrockbrewing -- I know this post is seven years old, but I've been searching for someone who makes hop tea out of fermented wort/beer. It seems like the best way to do it. (Why would I want to add water to my beer?)

I'm working on low oxygen brewing for my NEIPA and want to try hop tea instead of the 2nd dry hop charge. My plan is to put one ounce into each bomber (25 of them) and bottle right from the fermenter. I'm not interested in bitterness -- just aroma (some more flavor is fine, but the current flavor is pretty good). My question is how did you decide on 110-120? I was planning on 170 and steeping for 20 mins. That is my whirlpool temp, so it seemed like a good plan. But if I just want the aroma, maybe I'm better off at 110?

Not sure how much water the hops will absorb, but thinking of using 30 ounces of wort and 2 ounces of Cryo hops (probably Simcoe and Citra).

I'd appreciate any thoughts and suggestions...
 
Thanks for the feedback so far.

I'm a huge fan of adding hops after flame-out (see my IBU at whirlpool thread), but with the large amount of hop aromatics I've always lost to CO2 blow-off during krauzen has left me believing this is a technique more for flavor than for aroma.
Thread necropoly ..... I plan to do this and spund. Keep all that aroma in the keg.
IMG_20190414_203514.jpeg
IMG_20190414_212300.jpeg
 
Thread necropoly ..... I plan to do this and spund. Keep all that aroma in the keg.View attachment 624129View attachment 624130


Speak about a 7-year bump!

I ran across this thread when I saw your post under "New Posts" and thought I'd drop by. I've had good success with "tea hopping", initially to revive a fading IPA but more recently as a bridge to lowering oxidation. The method I've used in my three most recent brew sessions is a hybrid of vodka extraction tincture and French press steeping/straining coupled with transferring krausen dosed with the tea under pressure into a keg to blend with the fermenting beer in a 'krausening secondary'. I let it spund under 15~17 psig for seven to 10 days, followed by a cold crash.

Grain to glass is less than three weeks, yet the beer tastes like it was slow-fermented and conditioned for two months. Presently I'm finishing a pre-Prohibition lager that will be (hopefully) ready in a little bit under a month total time, after fermenting at 58F for 7 days and spunding/conditioning/clearing for about 2 ½ weeks.

Brooo Brother
 
Yeah, I was reading other brewing articles where people were doing this as a tea or as a hop extraction. The latter using wort vs water. This thread was 3rd down in my Google search. I tagged it in HBT... It wasn't until the other post that I noticed it was really fuggin old.

Thanks for the reply.

I'm planning to do this with a LOB pale ale. Putting the tea in a 2L bottle, squeeze the air out, pressurize with a CO2 cap. Then connect my closed syphon QDs then vent the keg should be a the best way to add it in a LOB fashion.
 
Yeah, I was reading other brewing articles where people were doing this as a tea or as a hop extraction. The latter using wort vs water. This thread was 3rd down in my Google search. I tagged it in HBT... It wasn't until the other post that I noticed it was really fuggin old.

Thanks for the reply.

I'm planning to do this with a LOB pale ale. Putting the tea in a 2L bottle, squeeze the air out, pressurize with a CO2 cap. Then connect my closed syphon QDs then vent the keg should be a the best way to add it in a LOB fashion.

I've done that trick with a 2 liter bottle and carb cap. It works, but you have to fill it only with 1 liter and leave the rest for CO2. Then it takes 2-3 fills of gas to complete the transfer. Also, be sure to always have the top of the bottle pointed down, or the only thing you'll transfer is CO2.

Brooo Brother
 
I've done that trick with a 2 liter bottle and carb cap. It works, but you have to fill it only with 1 liter and leave the rest for CO2. Then it takes 2-3 fills of gas to complete the transfer. Also, be sure to always have the top of the bottle pointed down, or the only thing you'll transfer is CO2.

Brooo Brother
That's the exact mental picture I had of the transfer.... Upside down ...Not sure if I can find a plastic 1L bottle. I haven't looked lately.
 
Interesting thread. A while back I tried several processes to doctor beer with a hop tea to evaluate hops (not as an alternative to dry hopping). The process that I found that worked best for a hop tea was:
  • boil 1/2 oz hops in 20 oz water for 10 minutes (would not be needed if you did not want the bitterness)
  • remove from heat and steep 20 minutes
  • chill and filter out hops
  • add 1/2 oz hops and allow to sit at room temp for 24 hours
  • filter out hops
  • add at a 1 to 3 ratio to beer (I found using a low flavor malt liquor to work well)
I found that if I did not dry hop the tea and let it sit for a day, I just did not get much aroma in the tea. Note that this method yielded about 10 oz of hop tea.

The big issue with using my process would be the ratio...I don't think I would want to add 1 gal of hop tea to 3 gal of beer! I am not sure how to avoid massive oxidation issues with adding a tea like this to a finished beer.

P.S. I have moved to making 1 gal hop sampler batches for hop evaluation. The downside is that it takes 4 weeks to ferment and bottle condition...the upside is you get a 6 pack of decent beer vs 40 oz of doctored malt liquor.
 
That's the exact mental picture I had of the transfer.... Upside down ...Not sure if I can find a plastic 1L bottle. I haven't looked lately.

2L bottle works best. 1L for the tea, 1L volume space for the C02. 1.75 gal. mini keg works better for me since I can combine the krausen, yeast and hop tea in one container and then transfer everything in one go on a single C02 charge. My next foray is going to be using hop oils with the krausen and not using hop tea. The problem is finding an adequate variety of different hops that have been distilled into oils, but a process like that would eliminate any vegetal tastes from getting into the tea, which has been a criticism of the hop tea process (though one I haven't experienced). I've been using as many cryo hops as I can find to reduce possible vegetal taste extraction while maximizing hop oils, but I've run into the same issue with limited hop varieties being produced. Nevertheless, I've found using hop teas to be a reasonable substitute for dry hopping while attempting to maintain a LoDO brewing process on the cold side.

Brooo Brother
 
2L bottle works best. 1L for the tea, 1L volume space for the C02. 1.75 gal. mini keg works better for me since I can combine the krausen, yeast and hop tea in one container and then transfer everything in one go on a single C02 charge. My next foray is going to be using hop oils with the krausen and not using hop tea. The problem is finding an adequate variety of different hops that have been distilled into oils, but a process like that would eliminate any vegetal tastes from getting into the tea, which has been a criticism of the hop tea process (though one I haven't experienced). I've been using as many cryo hops as I can find to reduce possible vegetal taste extraction while maximizing hop oils, but I've run into the same issue with limited hop varieties being produced. Nevertheless, I've found using hop teas to be a reasonable substitute for dry hopping while attempting to maintain a LoDO brewing process on the cold side.

Brooo Brother
The last sentence with LoDO is my reason too.

I plan to make a trifecta addition to my liter of water, post boil and prior to the steep.

It consists of 10mg of potassium metabisulfate, 10mg of asorbic acid, 40mg of Brewtan-B (Gallotannin). This is to protect that hop flavor.

I'm shooting for 15-20 minute steep at 150-160F. Then into the keg with my to be spunded beer on day 4.
 
The last sentence with LoDO is my reason too.

I plan to make a trifecta addition to my liter of water, post boil and prior to the steep.

It consists of 10mg of potassium metabisulfate, 10mg of asorbic acid, 40mg of Brewtan-B (Gallotannin). This is to protect that hop flavor.

I'm shooting for 15-20 minute steep at 150-160F. Then into the keg with my to be spunded beer on day 4.


I'd substitute sodium metabisulfate for the K Meta if you're looking to scavenge 02. If using the Na variety, you should shoot for closer to 5 mg. Also, if you're treating your water with salts be aware that Na Meta will obviously affect the sodium levels of your brewing water. I'm assuming 5 gallon batches on your part?

Brooo Brother
 
I'd substitute sodium metabisulfate for the K Meta if you're looking to scavenge 02. If using the Na variety, you should shoot for closer to 5 mg. Also, if you're treating your water with salts be aware that Na Meta will obviously affect the sodium levels of your brewing water. I'm assuming 5 gallon batches on your part?

Brooo Brother
Yeah, I meant to say sodium. I was thinking potassium is good for cleaning and the sodium is more common for scavaging. I don't use salts in my water. It sounds like they're interchangable if you don't adjust water for salts.

Aside from the LOB methodology, I just carbon filter.


I think I was right the first time... LoL.

NB says the opposite.

KMS - Scavaging oxygen.
NMS - Sanitizing.

I have both in powder and Camden tablets KMS

Northern Brewer is the source - Sodium Metabisulfate

"Essentially the same salt with the same applications as potassium metabisulfite, but contains the sodium ion instead of potassium. Some winemakers prefer to use this salt for sanitizing and KMS for antioxidant/stabilizing additions to must and wine. Use the same way and in the same proportions as KMS."
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I meant to say sodium. I was thinking potassium is good for cleaning and the sodium is more common for scavaging. I don't use salts in my water. It sounds like they're interchangable if you don't adjust water for salts.


I think I was right the first time... LoL.

NB says the opposite.

KMS - Scavaging oxygen.
NMS - Sanitizing.

"Essentially the same salt with the same applications as potassium metabisulfite, but contains the sodium ion instead of potassium. Some winemakers prefer to use this salt for sanitizing and KMS for antioxidant/stabilizing additions to must and wine. Use the same way and in the same proportions as KMS."

We've probably been researching the same sites vis-a-vis LoDO brewing. Here's a link to the German LoDO brewers that I've found to be very useful:

http://www.********************/brewing-methods/the-basis-of-low-oxygen-methodology/

They suggest that Na Meta and K Meta are each useful in reducing D.O. in brewing water as a "home brewer's hack", but seem to favor Na Meta over the potassium version:


Potassium Metabisulfite – Several brewing science texts and papers, Narziss’ work in particular, point toward elevated levels of potassium being detrimental to certain enzymatic actions in the mash. Narziss specifies that keeping potassium levels under 10 ppm is optimal. This corresponds to ~30 ppm of KMeta. If this dose provides you with sufficient enough scavenging, then feel free to use KMeta. If not, you may want to consider NaMeta alone or in a “Trifecta” blend. Antioxin SBT utilizes KMeta in its blend.

Sodium Metabisulfite – When the original team members of the GBF first outlined the procedure for Low Oxygen brewing and specified the amounts of NaMeta one could use for active O2 protection, it came with the caveat that one would have to adjust the value as they developed their system improvements and “tightened” everything up. This is still valid, although it may be worth revisiting dose rates here:

100 ppm – This was the original “fullproof” dose rate. It assumed someone had made no system or process adjustments whatsoever, i.e. no capping, no reduction in agitation/stirring, etc. It is no longer recommended save for the brewers who have not made any other system or process alterations and require maximum active scavenging protection even so we still warn against using it.

50 ppm –This was the second dose recommended, but we feel this is still TOO HIGH. We recommend you start much lower, using too large of a dose may cause undesirable sulfur in the finished beer. The best suggestion we can offer is to use Sulfite testing strips to run “diagnostic” testing on your system. Once you know your consumption you can tailor your dose more specifically to your equipment. We would say it is essential not to exceed 50 ppm when brewing Ales, and ultimately, Ale brewers will most likely need to go much lower.

20-30 ppm –This should be the starting dosage. Once a brewer has implemented many of the steps shown below, i.e. mash capping, reduction in agitation, No-Sparge, etc., and has used either a DO meter or Sulfite testing strips to establish their system consumption, this value seems to be what most people are settling on. It also happens to be the stock dosing for Antioxin SBT and the most common “Trifecta” dosage for Meta. This is quickly becoming the most popular and most practical dose for those who have done diagnostics on their system and implemented a fair amount of the suggested changes. Ultimately this is going to be set using testing strips and/or sensory analysis. You want fresh malt flavors but not excess sulfur in the finished beer. Experiment with dosing in small increments until you find the sweet spot the target is ZERO after cooling the wort.

5-10 ppm – This was the original recommended dose for those who are sparging. This is a value that should ultimately be determined through diagnostics. You will most likely not have to exceed 5-10 ppm for sparging, as the residuals in the mash should be enough to protect you during the sparge.

“Trifecta” and other Blends – A popular method being utilized is a blend of known antioxidants such as Sodium and Potassium Metabisulfite, Ascorbic Acid and Gallotannins/BTB. There are some notable blends, Antioxin SBT in particular, that have fixed percentages but ultimately the brewer can use the combination to tailor the specific type of protection each chemical offers to their system. As a starting point, 45/45/10 can be used as percentages of Meta/AA/GT or BB respectively. Forum members have noted that certain “Dual” blends, like Meta/BTB or Meta/AA have worked well for them given specific beer styles, etc. There is quite a bit of latitude here but basing the blends around your Meta dose is a good idea. Be careful with the use of AA alone or without a metal chelating agent, it is a known super oxidizer though however. See our spreadsheet for a “trifecta” blending and dosing calculator (Standard or Metric). It is a good idea when using Antioxin SBT to add back a targeted amount of Brewtan B to the mash when you begin reducing the dose. Since the gallotannins in Antioxin SBT are a fixed percentage of the blend, by reducing the KMeta dosing you are also reducing your gallotannin dose. Custom “Trifecta” users need not worry about this, as they can set their Brewtan B dose accordingly.


Mods: sorry for the thread drift, but I think this is good and relevant info.

Brooo Brother
 
We've probably been researching the same sites vis-a-vis LoDO brewing. Here's a link to the German LoDO brewers that I've found to be very useful:

http://www.********************/brewing-methods/the-basis-of-low-oxygen-methodology/

They suggest that Na Meta and K Meta are each useful in reducing D.O. in brewing water as a "home brewer's hack", but seem to favor Na Meta over the potassium version:


Potassium Metabisulfite – Several brewing science texts and papers, Narziss’ work in particular, point toward elevated levels of potassium being detrimental to certain enzymatic actions in the mash. Narziss specifies that keeping potassium levels under 10 ppm is optimal. This corresponds to ~30 ppm of KMeta. If this dose provides you with sufficient enough scavenging, then feel free to use KMeta. If not, you may want to consider NaMeta alone or in a “Trifecta” blend. Antioxin SBT utilizes KMeta in its blend.

Sodium Metabisulfite – When the original team members of the GBF first outlined the procedure for Low Oxygen brewing and specified the amounts of NaMeta one could use for active O2 protection, it came with the caveat that one would have to adjust the value as they developed their system improvements and “tightened” everything up. This is still valid, although it may be worth revisiting dose rates here:

100 ppm – This was the original “fullproof” dose rate. It assumed someone had made no system or process adjustments whatsoever, i.e. no capping, no reduction in agitation/stirring, etc. It is no longer recommended save for the brewers who have not made any other system or process alterations and require maximum active scavenging protection even so we still warn against using it.

50 ppm –This was the second dose recommended, but we feel this is still TOO HIGH. We recommend you start much lower, using too large of a dose may cause undesirable sulfur in the finished beer. The best suggestion we can offer is to use Sulfite testing strips to run “diagnostic” testing on your system. Once you know your consumption you can tailor your dose more specifically to your equipment. We would say it is essential not to exceed 50 ppm when brewing Ales, and ultimately, Ale brewers will most likely need to go much lower.

20-30 ppm –This should be the starting dosage. Once a brewer has implemented many of the steps shown below, i.e. mash capping, reduction in agitation, No-Sparge, etc., and has used either a DO meter or Sulfite testing strips to establish their system consumption, this value seems to be what most people are settling on. It also happens to be the stock dosing for Antioxin SBT and the most common “Trifecta” dosage for Meta. This is quickly becoming the most popular and most practical dose for those who have done diagnostics on their system and implemented a fair amount of the suggested changes. Ultimately this is going to be set using testing strips and/or sensory analysis. You want fresh malt flavors but not excess sulfur in the finished beer. Experiment with dosing in small increments until you find the sweet spot the target is ZERO after cooling the wort.

5-10 ppm – This was the original recommended dose for those who are sparging. This is a value that should ultimately be determined through diagnostics. You will most likely not have to exceed 5-10 ppm for sparging, as the residuals in the mash should be enough to protect you during the sparge.

“Trifecta” and other Blends – A popular method being utilized is a blend of known antioxidants such as Sodium and Potassium Metabisulfite, Ascorbic Acid and Gallotannins/BTB. There are some notable blends, Antioxin SBT in particular, that have fixed percentages but ultimately the brewer can use the combination to tailor the specific type of protection each chemical offers to their system. As a starting point, 45/45/10 can be used as percentages of Meta/AA/GT or BB respectively. Forum members have noted that certain “Dual” blends, like Meta/BTB or Meta/AA have worked well for them given specific beer styles, etc. There is quite a bit of latitude here but basing the blends around your Meta dose is a good idea. Be careful with the use of AA alone or without a metal chelating agent, it is a known super oxidizer though however. See our spreadsheet for a “trifecta” blending and dosing calculator (Standard or Metric). It is a good idea when using Antioxin SBT to add back a targeted amount of Brewtan B to the mash when you begin reducing the dose. Since the gallotannins in Antioxin SBT are a fixed percentage of the blend, by reducing the KMeta dosing you are also reducing your gallotannin dose. Custom “Trifecta” users need not worry about this, as they can set their Brewtan B dose accordingly.


Mods: sorry for the thread drift, but I think this is good and relevant info.

Brooo Brother
That's totally in purview of keeping the hop aroma with regard to your water treatment for this 1L tea or extract. Some might have had less than stellar results if they over looked the time in the coffee press.

So yeah!!! [emoji122] ....[emoji482]
 
That's totally in purview of keeping the hop aroma with regard to your water treatment for this 1L tea or extract. Some might have had less than stellar results if they over looked the time in the coffee press.

So yeah!!! [emoji122] ....[emoji482]
I added my hop tea of Cryo Citra today.
 
Hi everyone!

Resurrecting this old thread, because I'm thinking in split a batch of Pale Ale in 2. Half (18 L) goes to the fermenter, cooled by a chiller plate. The other half (18 L) will be top up with 7 L of filtered water and reheated to 95 C. Then add 95 g of CTZ, let it drop until 80 C before cooling.

Both batches will be fermented for 15 days. To the "hopless" one will be add 7L of filtered water, boiled and hoped with 95 g of CTZ at 95 C until fall to 80 C before cooling.

My objective here is compare a straight flameout addition with a post fermentation flameout hop tea addition, or something like that.

What do you think about it? Worth all the hard work? Someone has already did something like that? (And I didn't find in the internet?)
 
Hi! Yes, I changed a bit the strategy. I was afraid about ending with 50l of underbittered beer, so instead of 2 batches of 25l, I made 3. 1 of 25l and 2 of 7l. The biggest one, normal hopstand. For the other two. 5l of wort plus 2l of hopstand hop tea (?). Boiled filtered water in a pan with lid, turn flame out and added hops (100C), in a hopbag. 30 min, then cooled it. One before fermentation, and other just before bottling. A lot of work involved...

So... The hop tea beer smells and tastes just like the hop pellet. And was bitter as the software predicted. And I can't tell they apart! If there's a difference, neither me, my wife, my brother our my mother notice.

In the other hand, the normal hopstand beer, have less aroma and a different flavour. Like others I did. Maybe, just maybe, because the lid in the pan. It was closed all the time and condensate the vapour inside while in the fridge. So, because of boiling points, I suggest it retains myrcene. It matches with differences between beers and myrcene's characteristics. Anyway, I preferred the normal hopstand beer. Other people didn't like myrcene too, look for dip hoping.

Or was because I did the hopstand in water. Who knows?

Anyway, it works. If you want to increase bitterness and/or flavour in a beer, you can make a hopstand tea, and add at any point of fermentation.

Recipe, I divided in two, because of water addition.

First, the normal hopstand. Scaled from 25l to 36l, because of process. Was the base beer.

The inverted sugar stands for priming sugar.


17th Columbus SMASH!.png

Hopstand tea beer as both test beer. In the end, the status was the same.

17th Columbus SMASH! Test.png

What you think about it?
 

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