auto-sparge

Has anyone used the Auto-Sparge? what do you think about it? Any other ideas as to a piece of equipment (valves) that could serve the same function? I was poking around McMaster, and also the Hardware store sites. the closest i can think of is the part that installs in a toilet tank, but temperature would probably be an issue. just throwing it out there.

___________________
GPB

I don't have any experience with the Auto-Sparge, but I think you could use a brass float valve and it would handle the temperature OK.

I've been thinking about trying out one of these valves:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/HUDSON-VALVE-Self-Contained-Float-Valve-4WXV6?Pid=search

They are only rated to 150 F @ 100 psi, but I would guess there's some room to go above 150 as it would only be facing a few psi at most. I don't think it would need to be completely submerged. Probably only the bottom end where the float is located. It's not too expensive at $32, so it's not a major gamble if it doesn't work. It's a little bulky at 2-3/4" diameter and 5" tall, but not too bad really. I will report back if I ever get around to testing one.

Keep in mind that it does you no good if the valve gets clogged or stuck the first time it sees a grain particle. And, whatever you use, you have to figure out a way to mount it.

I never really thought $50 for the autosparge was outrageous, especially when compared to the alternatives...

Sure. the way i'd see it is i'd rather spend 50$ on batches so i can practice and refine my recipes, rather than spend cash on fancy equipment. i envy those that can afford nifty toys, but then i wouldn't have cash to actually brew. Maybe someday.
I'm still learning the labyrinth that is McMaster, but what about something like part number 4607K43;
Brass Miniature Float Valve Polypro, Single-Lever, 1/2" NPT Male X Unthreaded
In stock at $13.26 Each

http://www.mcmaster.com/#liquid-level-float-valves/=8wo4z5

GamePreserve said:

Sure. the way i'd see it is i'd rather spend 50$ on batches so i can practice and refine my recipes, rather than spend cash on fancy equipment. i envy those that can afford nifty toys, but then i wouldn't have cash to actually brew. Maybe someday.
I'm still learning the labyrinth that is McMaster, but what about something like part number 4607K43;
Brass Miniature Float Valve Polypro, Single-Lever, 1/2" NPT Male X Unthreaded
In stock at $13.26 Each

http://www.mcmaster.com/#liquid-level-float-valves/=8wo4z5

Click to expand...

Boy...you said it...I'm poorer now, brew less, and have less useable equipment than when I started.....all because I'm in the middle of a mega build.......

Funkenjaeger said:

Keep in mind that it does you no good if the valve gets clogged or stuck the first time it sees a grain particle. And, whatever you use, you have to figure out a way to mount it.

I never really thought $50 for the autosparge was outrageous, especially when compared to the alternatives...

Click to expand...

I would only be using the float valve for sparging, not for circulating wort, so it should see only plain, clear hot water. Grain particulates would likely screw with the Auto-Sparge or any other automatic valve. I was looking for a more compact valve that did not use a long actuating arm and float. I'm confident that I can mount the valve without much trouble at all. The $50 price would not be a deal killer for me. Hell, I spend more than that on a pedicure every few weeks.

I'll look up the parts we use in our condensate tanks at work and post them here. They stand in 215+ degree water 24 hours a day and dont stop up.

If its some sort of mechanical valve that would be responsive to a short, buoyant lever arm with a range of 0-3 inches... then that is the device for the job! I guess figuring out what to mount it on would be a piece of cake.

I wonder if a swamp cooler float valve would work. Something like this- I've got a pile of old swamp cooler parts, and I'm sure with the lower pressures it would see that the arm could be shortened quite a bit without any problem.

GamePreserve said:

Has anyone used the Auto-Sparge? what do you think about it? Any other ideas as to a piece of equipment (valves) that could serve the same function? I was poking around McMaster, and also the Hardware store sites. the closest i can think of is the part that installs in a toilet tank, but temperature would probably be an issue. just throwing it out there.

___________________
GPB

Click to expand...

This has been discussed in in this thread also: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/blichmann-engineering-set-forget-design-auto-sparge-137942/. The search function does wonders.

thanks sawdustguy - didn't come across that in my searches.

Here are parts like we use. You can probibly get them from McMaster Carr or somewhere else, we normally just order from here though.
Valve: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=13135635&PMT4NO=93982878
Copper float: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=7211479&PMT4NO=0
Stainless Float: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=7211543&PMT4NO=0

I am currently using an auto spare on my RIMs system and love it. I recirculate through it and it has never clogged.

ncgardenfreaks said:

Here are parts like we use. You can probibly get them from McMaster Carr or somewhere else, we normally just order from here though.
Valve: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=13135635&PMT4NO=93982878
Copper float: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=7211479&PMT4NO=0
Stainless Float: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=7211543&PMT4NO=0

Click to expand...

$30 and you still need to mount it, add an outlet hose, and a threaded rod to connect the valve and float ball. A couple brass pipe locknuts, a brass barb fitting and 90 degree elbow (assuming you want your tubing coming out parallel to the mash surface), a foot of stainless threaded rod, a foot and a half of silicone tubing, and some foam to float the end of the tubing. Unless you've got much of that laying around already, you're bound to be over $40 by that point.

So you could in fact save at least a few bucks. But that leaves the important questions:
1) Does the valve have a gasket suitable for mash/sparge temperatures?
2) Does the valve design resist clogging sufficiently?

those valves will hold any temps we could through at them. They sit right on top of near boiling water in the tank that we return our exhausted steam and condensate in to recycle the water. The minimal id in the 1/2" NPT valve like this will pass a 5/16 ball completely through it. Last I orded them they came with a NSF stamped oring that appeared to be viton, but it didnt come with a pipe nut. If you are only using it to control the water coming out of the sparge tank into the mash then it shouldnt have anything in it anyway. If you wanted to get it all from one them it would total 41.41 with float, valve, 2ft. 3/8ID 1/8" wall silicon tubing, and 3ft 1/4-20 stainless rod. Shopping around could be cheaper if you like to build things, if not then buying would be the way to go. Just my 2 pennys though

ncgardenfreaks said:

If you wanted to get it all from one them it would total 41.41 with float, valve, 2ft. 3/8ID 1/8" wall silicon tubing, and 3ft 1/4-20 stainless rod.

Click to expand...

Still have to mount it and connect the tubing.

Unless some noticeably better prices turn up on the important parts, the build vs. buy decision seems to come down to whether you happen to be placing an order at MSC or at NB/AHB/etc...