Stuck at 1.02 ... Again!

I've got a Midwest's Irish red that has been in the fermenter 12 days and I just took a SG... 1.02. This is my third Extract kit to do this. I pitched two packs of re-hydrated Munton's ale yeast. Aerated the cooled wort. I just don't know... I controlled the temps this time. My first 2 batches did this and I pitched some coopers to get the beer to finally get to FG (or close anyway). This is my 4th batch. My 3rd one, I double pitched coopers and had no problems. I don't have any coopers right now but I do have another pack of Muntons. Should I pitch it or just leave it another week and test again? Just can't seem to figure this out.
As always thanks for your help...

Did you check the date on the yeast packs?

Midwest kits are great except for the yeast. Next time replace the Munton's for a better yeast and your 1.020 woes will be over.

Patience is a virtue. Check it again in a few days.

What was your original gravity for this beer?

The OG was 1.052. No, I didn't check the date's on the yeast packets. I know I'm not supposed to put too much stock in the airlock, but I had thought this batch would be better because it bubbled for 5 days (the first two batches stopped after about a day). The liberty cream ale in my other fermenter has wyeast british 1098 (via my first starter) and it has shown activity steadily since last Saturday. BTW, the irish red tasted pretty good last night when I took the SG. Thanks again for all the advice, (I clearly need it!!)

Like Nurmey said, try using another brand of dry yeast such as Safale or Nottingham. There has been much documented success when using those and I can vouch for both of them reaching desired terminal gravity.

Honestly w/ extract I rarely get below 1.020. I've pitched re-hydrated S-05, US-04, wyeast smack packs, big starters with white labs yeasts and any brews I've made w/ a OG over 1.050 get stuck at 1.020. I'm about to go all-grain and I'm hoping the ability to regulate mash temperatures will help.

I've done 2 Midwest kits first one had Mutons and it fermented great. Second kit had Nottingham (possible recall batch) it did nothing for 3 1/2 days, repitched a Safale and it went real well....I really like Midwests kits but have started using differant yeasts with good success.

Take a look at this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/i-need-your-input-138021/

I would say it's the fermentability of the extract rather than anything to do with yeast.

My first Midwest kit with the same yeast did the same thing. I rehydrated before use and let it sit 3-weeks. It never budged below 1.018. After much research, I concluded it was the yeast and have used liquid yeast since. Now, mine are coming out at 1.008 and 1.010 lately.

The first 30 batches or so we made were Midwest's kits and I'm sorry to say that it took a dozen or so for me to figure out about the yeast. After that I started substituting Nottingham or liquid and they I never had the dreaded 1.020 curse again.

Check out the Munton's web site.
"For recipes demanding the use of sugar our Standard Yeast is ideal. If all malt brewing is undertaken we would recommend that you use our Premium Gold Yeast as our Standard Yeast will struggle to ferment some of the more complex sugars which are more prevalent in all malt recipes."

-a.

You guy's rock, I really don't know what I would have done without your input (probably give up). What a community. As I learn and grow as a brewer, I hope I can also be as helpful to others as you all have been to me.

ajf said:

Check out the Munton's web site.
"For recipes demanding the use of sugar our Standard Yeast is ideal. If all malt brewing is undertaken we would recommend that you use our Premium Gold Yeast as our Standard Yeast will struggle to ferment some of the more complex sugars which are more prevalent in all malt recipes."

-a.

Click to expand...

I think my previous experience was with the Munton's "standard" yeast and not the gold. So, perhaps what you have found holds true. I might try some of the other dry yeasts recommended by others at some point, but for now, I guess I'm a convert on the liquid yeasts and plan to use them for the foreseeable future.

I would just have to say, buy some US-05 dry yeast, read up on yeast washing, and your next post will be how to keep your beer from fermenting out so much.
I have not used Munton's yeast for many a year.

I had the same issue. I had an amber ale kit from Midwest using w/Munton’s 6 gm dry yeast and it was stuck at 1.020. Phatuna recommended swirling my bucket to raise the yeast. That day I went home and checked my gravity and it had dropped below 1.020. Guess it was from checking the gravity and moving the primary around for 3 days in a row. That night I gave it a nice swirl the next morning it was bubbling away again. The FG on the ale is now at 1.010 which is spot on for the directions. Be sure to give it a stiff swirl to raise the yeast don't be to shy.

BUT: I did knock of some krausen when I gave it a swirl so gentle might be the way to go.

I gotta say gang. I have bottled several batches of beer at 1.020, that's sort of the top end of my comfort zone....the point is that if fermentation is done, regardless of the fg AND it hasn't moved for a week or more and I have swirled and warmed and still it hasn't moved, then all the fermentable sugars for whatever reason have been eaten. Then they won't go ballistic when you bottle them..They may be a little sweeter than you'd like, or they might taste fine....but if you've given the yeast a reasonable amount of time to do it's job, then you can go ahead and bottle it.

Interesting, on the UK websites they all complained about the Woodfordes kits stalling at 1.020, they are all malt 3kg tinned kits, also made by Muntons. They all put it down to a problem with the wort, maybe it was the yeast as that seems to be the common thread here and the gravity is bang on for what they were all reporting in UK.