New Mash Tun

I know most f you are saying - This again but well I am excited about this so I took detailed notes & pictures in case it helps one person out there. I have a price list & pictures of the installation - all 5 minutes of it. I know I might have gotten cheaper prices if I shopped around more but.....

Parts List & Prices:
1 - 10 Gallon Igloo Cooler (From Lowes BLUE not Orange!!) - $47.16
1 - 1/2 metal ball valve (From Lowes) - $9.24
2 - 1/2" X 1/2" Male Adapter Barb X MPT (From Lowes) - $4.58 for both
1 - Pack of #15 rubber O Rings i needed 2 - pack of 10 (From Lowes) - $2.37
1 - 5' 1/2 hose (From Lowes) $3.58
1 - Plumbers Tape - Free had this but would cost about $1.00 for the roll
1 - 12" Stainless Domed False Bottom (from homebrewstuff.com) - $37.12 (free shipping from ordering through Amazon)

Total Cost: $104.05


The pictures with steps will be in the next posts

Step 1 - Remove the valve that came with the cooler:

Step 2 - attach the inner MTP adapter to the 1/2 inch extender:

Step 3 - attach the MTP adapter to the ball valve

Step 4 - in this picture this is the order they go together with the cooler between the O rings

Step 5 - put the pieces together tighten well but not so hard it cracks remember there is no water pressure here just gravity at its best

Step 6 - put the hoses on when you need it

Step 8 - Put the false bottom in and enjoy your new Mash tun

I forgot to add the 1/2" PVC extender to the list - was $.67 from Lowes

Nice ....lowes knows.

Fun build!

nice! I have never seen it done this way before. Seems much more simple then the other DIY.

How is that PVC going to play into things at 150 degrees? I don't think PVC is food grade. Is it?

jakenbacon said:

How is that PVC going to play into things at 150 degrees? I don't think PVC is food grade. Is it?

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Yeah, you ideally want to use CPVC at a minimum. Brass or copper is better. O-rings should probably be silicon too. PVC is food grade but CPVC is rated for higher temps.

Spintab said:

Yeah, you ideally want to use CPVC at a minimum. Brass or copper is better. O-rings should probably be silicon too. PVC is food grade but CPVC is rated for higher temps.

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Good to know! I've been wanting to go the PVC route to save $ but was unsure... Not anymore, thanks!

Yeah. PVC is a no go at these temps. I used CPVC, but am changing it to copper.

CPVC is fine but not regular PVC. Oh, don't put any orings or seals on the outside of the cooler. The last thing you want is to fill the wall cavity with mash liquor if your inner seal fails. In fact, I recommend drilling a 1/8" weep hole in the bottom corner of the outside wall just under the valve so it tattletales a leak right away.

Bobby_M said:

I recommend drilling a 1/8" weep hole in the bottom corner of the outside wall just under the valve so it tattletales a leak right away.

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That is a great tip!

Did some research - although I will change the inside PVC - PVC can go to 140 degrees if under pressure, non presser it can go to 158-170 degrees, for normal thickness. the coupler thickness will go to 200-205 degrees.

But for about $5-10 bucks I will change it as I want to make sure it has no "off flavors"

small price to pay for insurance.

Yeah, we're not talking about the structural integrity. It's the leaching that could come with high temps and PVC.

Holzster said:

Step 6 - put the hoses on when you need it

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Funny, I was searching for this very thing and this is the only pic that doesn't show up for me in the whole thread...