Ok, Mr. Electrician with a lifetime supply of copper, where do you live? I need my service upgraded. Seriously.
Ditch the HLT, go instant electric. Idea.
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Do you have a diagram or picture of Kladue's system?
slnies
Well-Known Member
As it would turn out turn out I have pictures in another thread. I had a long conversation with Kladue, and he out lined and posted pics on his older set up that uses steam injection in a Rims set up. It is pretty slick. I will post the thread when I find it again. It has been some time since I posted on it so it is way back in my replies. S.
slnies
Well-Known Member
"RIMS Set ups?" is the name of the thread. S.
Which part of the steam injection system would you like to see?, the boilers made from stainless tubing, steam into wort mixer, or actual operation of the old system. Since I am buying large quantities of .025 wall 1/4" OD hard drawn tubing for air operated control valves in a new pharmaceutical plant, planned to make 4-20' coils for the new boiler and test performance.
I'm not as advanced in this as any of you, but can you tell me if there are fittings for a heater element so you can just mount it through the wall of a keggle? My stand will have a burner under it, so rapid heating can use propane and electricity, but holding a set temp would be nice with a temp controller and a heater.
if you check the thread size on your element (I think they are like 1" or 1.25") you can have a SS coupling of that size welded in place.
say I couldn't find a welder that would do the SS, or a good job on it, are there fittings that are bulkhead types for that size? (just as a backup plan).
It seems to me that a thermowell, a controller, a cord, an element, fittings, and the electricity to run it would be cheaper in the long-haul than that much propane to maintain temps. The aggravation of constantly adjusting the flame would be gone as well.
I'm stepping into a large single level rig that I'm building, and the keggle for hlt and kettle is an early step, but I could maybe get it outfitted with a thermowell in the beginning, then add the heater element down the road when I get the other kettles running.
It seems to me that a thermowell, a controller, a cord, an element, fittings, and the electricity to run it would be cheaper in the long-haul than that much propane to maintain temps. The aggravation of constantly adjusting the flame would be gone as well.
I'm stepping into a large single level rig that I'm building, and the keggle for hlt and kettle is an early step, but I could maybe get it outfitted with a thermowell in the beginning, then add the heater element down the road when I get the other kettles running.
In case anyone is still watching this thread, I put together a diagram of how I might impliment the instant hot water system.
The only thing I've thought of changing since drawing this is swapping the thermowell with the hot water out/relief. I'd probably want the relief valve as high as possible and have the temp probe closer to the output water flow.
The idea is to use this setup to heat strike water to about 170F going into the MLT and to also be able to fly sparge under city pressure allowing a single tier system with only one pump. The flow rate on a 5500w element was discussed earlier in this thread and I think a quart per minute is totally reasonable for this use.
I've thought about the idea of using the same unit as a HERMS heater. I'd simply put a two-way manifold on the inlet to stop water flowing in and pump the mash in instead. Of course, you could also use a second unit for this and use a much lower wattage and lower density element. I don't know enough about PID just yet to know if you can get lower output out of a high wattage element or not.
The only thing I've thought of changing since drawing this is swapping the thermowell with the hot water out/relief. I'd probably want the relief valve as high as possible and have the temp probe closer to the output water flow.
The idea is to use this setup to heat strike water to about 170F going into the MLT and to also be able to fly sparge under city pressure allowing a single tier system with only one pump. The flow rate on a 5500w element was discussed earlier in this thread and I think a quart per minute is totally reasonable for this use.
I've thought about the idea of using the same unit as a HERMS heater. I'd simply put a two-way manifold on the inlet to stop water flowing in and pump the mash in instead. Of course, you could also use a second unit for this and use a much lower wattage and lower density element. I don't know enough about PID just yet to know if you can get lower output out of a high wattage element or not.
Desert_Sky
Since 1998
i have a on demand water heater I designed and built myself. Copper tubing with 5-500W Hallogen Bulbs inside. Not only does it purify the water, but it takes ground water to 180 instantly.
We were working on a patent when my so called partner decided he would venture off on his own and approached Sloan Valve Co. without me. Long story, but my heater still works better than his.
Basically take Bobbys drawing and add 4 more tubes to it
We were working on a patent when my so called partner decided he would venture off on his own and approached Sloan Valve Co. without me. Long story, but my heater still works better than his.
Basically take Bobbys drawing and add 4 more tubes to it
Here is a picture of the old system boiler with unit in operation http://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.ladue/Boiler/photo#5212885766189478002 Boiler is built from 4 - 10' lengths of tubing wound around 2" pipe and spread to 1" spacing between coils, intermeshed to fit in 6" tube. Here is a picture of the steam injection manifold from the new system, http://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.ladue/NewSystemSteamMixer Steam enters through 1/4" tube and out through screen, wort circulates over screen and absorbs steam. Old system boiler could output roughly 10 Kw of heat into wort, have tested new boiler in water heat mode and can heat .5 gpm of water from 49 degrees to 180 degrees.
I'm attempting an electric heat exchanger. I see the plan above. It shows an Element screwed into a 1-1/2 NPT to 1-1/2 sweat fitting. I just checked and the Element I checked did not seem to have Pipe Threads. It would not screw into a pipe fitting before binding. I see a few post's back that someone has an adapter.
Are the Elements all the same thread? Pipe Thread or something else?
Are the Elements all the same thread? Pipe Thread or something else?
Can anybody tell me what the thread is on the Heating Element? How to go from the Element to Copper Pipe?
I think it's NPS which is similar to NPT but no taper.
Thanks Bobby, is there a fitting I can buy to go from NPS to 1 inch or 1 1/2 copper?
conpewter
Well-Known Member
Really looking into building this. I'd like to replace the HLT I have (has a 5500 W element) and use this sort of system instead. Seems like it would be less to clean (I always seem to need to clean the HLT due to dust etc. that gets in to it) and would take up a lot less room than a whole keg.
jaginger
Well-Known Member
go nuclear
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