How to force carb in a week?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

spiny_norman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
198
Reaction score
3
Location
San Diego, CA
I've done lots of research and it seems there is no consensus. I do set-and-forget, but that takes about 3 weeks before it's fully carbed.

I'll be kegging next weekend and it needs to be ready Christmas day, which gives me a week. I'm not sure about the shaking-the-crap-out-of-it method, but can I put it at, say 25psi, for 2 or 3 days (leave it on the gas?), purge and set it at 10psi @ 35F for another 4 or 5 days. Will that work? I'm shooting for about 2.2 vols.
 
I've done lots of research and it seems there is no consensus. I do set-and-forget, but that takes about 3 weeks before it's fully carbed.

I'll be kegging next weekend and it needs to be ready Christmas day, which gives me a week. I'm not sure about the shaking-the-crap-out-of-it method, but can I put it at, say 25psi, for 2 or 3 days (leave it on the gas?), purge and set it at 10psi @ 35F for another 4 or 5 days. Will that work? I'm shooting for about 2.2 vols.

I found that setting it at 30 psi for 36 hours, then purging and resetting at 12 psi makes the beer perfectly carbed in 5 days at my house. My fridge is 39 degrees.
 
I found that setting it at 30 psi for 36 hours, then purging and resetting at 12 psi makes the beer perfectly carbed in 5 days at my house. My fridge is 39 degrees.

I've seen some talk about attaching the gas line to the beer out post as part of force carbing - is this necessary for your method?
 
I've seen some talk about attaching the gas line to the beer out post as part of force carbing - is this necessary for your method?

No, I don't do that. You can if you want, as some people think it might work faster. I don't. Unless you have a diffusion stone attached, the bubbles are rather large and won't really go into solution any faster than attaching it the traditional way.

Keep in mind that if you do it, change the QDs on the gas line. If you stick a gray quick-disconnect (the "gas" one) onto the "out" post, you'll NEVER get it off except with a screwdriver and brute strength, and may damage the post.
 
I used the "set it and forget it" method to carb mine, just looked up the correct pressure for temp and carbonation level and it was drinkable in a week(maybe not fully carbed up, but it still was pouring with good head)
 
My method is very close to Yooper's.

I do 28 psi for 48 hours. I was once told this by a Pro Brewer,,,,,,,,, years and years ago.

-Moe
 
Keep in mind that if you do it, change the QDs on the gas line. If you stick a gray quick-disconnect (the "gas" one) onto the "out" post, you'll NEVER get it off except with a screwdriver and brute strength, and may damage the post.

Got my keezer together today. In the process of attaching all the hoses, I accidentally stuck one of the gas lines on a beer out post. I didn't need a screwdriver, but as Yooper said, it took a heck of a lot of pulling to get it off. As I was pulling, beer was pouring out the top of the post and down the sides of the keg. Now carbing @ 30psi. :ban:
 
Got my keezer together today. In the process of attaching all the hoses, I accidentally stuck one of the gas lines on a beer out post. I didn't need a screwdriver, but as Yooper said, it took a heck of a lot of pulling to get it off. As I was pulling, beer was pouring out the top of the post and down the sides of the keg. Now carbing @ 30psi. :ban:

You just had to try it didn't you? :cross:

Just like your mom, I'm not going to say I told you so.

but I did! :D
 
I found that setting it at 30 psi for 36 hours, then purging and resetting at 12 psi makes the beer perfectly carbed in 5 days at my house. My fridge is 39 degrees.

I do the same thing and it works perfectly everytime. I then reset to 8 psi. perfect serving pressure.:tank:
 
I have the same situation with a little less time and with a bit higher temps. I will adjust the PSI up a bit and I should be good...no?
 
I used Yooper's method. I set 2 kegs @ 30psi (Friday evening) for 36 hours then dialed back to 12psi (sunday morning) I just pulled a sample from both kegs (Monday evening) and both taste flat as can be. I need this carbed for our Christmas party on Sat. Will I be ok by then? Or should I be worried? Temp in fridge is 39F.
Thanks
 
FWIW, I kegged a brown ale Saturday about 1:00 pm at 30 psi and tried one today at about 5:00 pm after dropping the pressure to 12 psi and it had a nice creamy head and decent carbonation and actually tasted pretty good. Hoping it will be better by Christmas.
 
I used Yooper's method. I set 2 kegs @ 30psi (Friday evening) for 36 hours then dialed back to 12psi (sunday morning) I just pulled a sample from both kegs (Monday evening) and both taste flat as can be. I need this carbed for our Christmas party on Sat. Will I be ok by then? Or should I be worried? Temp in fridge is 39F.
Thanks

I also kegged on Friday and need it carbed by this Friday. This is my contingency plan:

pressure_tester.jpg


Increase the PSI to 20, disconnect, shake the heck out of it, and test the pressure. That'll get it carbonated, but I'm concerned about carbonic acid. (And green beer).

I've seen very similar recommendations elsewhere that are similar to Yooper's schedule that works great for many so I reckon we'll be fine.
 
I left mine on 30PSI for about 48 hours, then turned it down to 12PSI this afternoon. It has a nice head to it, but the rest of the beer doesn't seem to be very carbonated yet. I"m in the same situation, that I'd like to have it ready for Christmas.
 
I used Yooper's method. I set 2 kegs @ 30psi (Friday evening) for 36 hours then dialed back to 12psi (sunday morning) I just pulled a sample from both kegs (Monday evening) and both taste flat as can be. I need this carbed for our Christmas party on Sat. Will I be ok by then? Or should I be worried? Temp in fridge is 39F.
Thanks

Flat? If that's the case, do you have a leak somewhere? I mean, it's against the laws of physics to keep it at 30 psi at 39 degrees for 36 hours and then 12 psi for 12 hours and have it be flat.

How long is the line? Maybe the co2 is being "knocked out" of solution by lines that are under 5 feet long?
 
Flat? If that's the case, do you have a leak somewhere? I mean, it's against the laws of physics to keep it at 30 psi at 39 degrees for 36 hours and then 12 psi for 12 hours and have it be flat.

How long is the line? Maybe the co2 is being "knocked out" of solution by lines that are under 5 feet long?

No leaks that I can find (sprayed starsan on all connections to check and my 15lb tank is still full since opening the valve friday evening)I pushed it up to 30PSI for another 17 hours then tested it at 12psi this evening for serving.... No HEAD very little carb Maybe 1.5-1.7 volumes (wild guess). My serving line is 10ft. Height is 28inches from bottom of keg to faucet.
 
So I just tapped the keg after 7 days carbonating using Yooper's method and I'm pleased to say that it's fully carbed. Actually it's slightly over carbed but that's probably because my temps were a little lower (I did 25PSI at 34 degrees for 36 hours, vented and set to 10PSI which should have been 8PSI tops at that temp).

This is the quickest I've done an IPA from grain to glass (just under 4 weeks) and it's a damn fine beer too, and surprisingly not green and no carbonic acid bite. Very pleased with the result :)

carb_7_days.JPG
 
I do the same thing and it works perfectly everytime. I then reset to 8 psi. perfect serving pressure.:tank:

Resurrecting an old thread here, but I have a question. For hopy beers that really have a lot of aroma, will purging drastically affect the aroma once it's all carbed up and I start pouring? I plan on dry hopping in the keg
 
Resurrecting an old thread here, but I have a question. For hopy beers that really have a lot of aroma, will purging drastically affect the aroma once it's all carbed up and I start pouring? I plan on dry hopping in the keg
That's a rumor that been floating around. I think its all BS.
The flavor is in the beer not in the air. I would love to see a blind test where after a keg that's been sitting for a week or two got purged nonstop for a week straight and the other was never purged. I would almost guarantee no one would be able to tell the difference. I purge all my beers including IPAs and they all taste good
 
I set my co2 at 35 psi with the keg in the keggerator. I put the keg on it's side to create more surface area than just the head space if it was upright. After 24 hours it's usually good.
 
I read this here years ago and it works great.

35 psi to the IN fitting.

Place keg on your knees sideways.

Rock back and forth for LOTS of sloshing for about 2 minutes.
YOUR time will vary with temp of beer.

Yer done.

You can hear the gas going into the keg as it sloshes and carbonates.

Adjust pressure and drink.

David
 
I read this here years ago and it works great.

35 psi to the IN fitting.

Place keg on your knees sideways.

Rock back and forth for LOTS of sloshing for about 2 minutes.
YOUR time will vary with temp of beer.

Yer done.

You can hear the gas going into the keg as it sloshes and carbonates.

Adjust pressure and drink.

David

samesies

i'll put beer in keg, then i'll put the keg in the fridge over night so the beer gets cold (cold liquid absorbs gases faster) then i'll set the pressure to 30 psi and roll it around and shake it for a few minutes. Then i'll leave it in the keg disconnected but with 30 psi for a day. Its always good and carb'd the next day. To be fair i havnt tried drinking it right after the inital sloshing and rolling but i imagine it would probably be good enough to drink right then and there
 
samesies

i'll put beer in keg, then i'll put the keg in the fridge over night so the beer gets cold (cold liquid absorbs gases faster) then i'll set the pressure to 30 psi and roll it around and shake it for a few minutes. Then i'll leave it in the keg disconnected but with 30 psi for a day. Its always good and carb'd the next day. To be fair i havnt tried drinking it right after the inital sloshing and rolling but i imagine it would probably be good enough to drink right then and there

I'm so glad you brought that up. This is a bugbear of mine and I've been wanting to get it off my chest for months. I've seen similar advice in numerous postings, I've seen it in BYO articles, even the odd chemistry graduate will trot it out, but it's 100% wrong. Well somewhat more than half wrong at least - bear with me. I believe proponents of chill and carb are confusing to different concepts - solubility and rate of dissolution. Solubility describes what happens when the system is in equilibrium. Rate of dissolution is concerned with kinematics; how fast the system gets to equilibrium.

Gas solubility in a liquid (or a solid for that matter) increases with a decrease in temperature, but for a given equilibrium concentration the rate of dissolution will not. Of course to achieve the same equilibrium concentration at a higher temperature you need more pressure.

For example if you want to carb a beer to 2.5vols you can apply 10psi of CO2 at 2degC, or 27psi at 20degC. The beer at room temperature will be carbed sooner than the cold beer. There's an obvious downside to carbing at room temperature, and it's the real reason that breweries carb cold - normally you've already chilled the beer before carbing and you want it cold after carbing. Warming up the beer, and then chilling it again takes time and energy.

However, there is an additional benefit to carbing before chilling. CO2 can exist in water in a number of different states. At one end of the spectrum C02 will bind relatively tightly with water to form carbonic acid. At the other end nanobubbles are subject to viscous forces which effectively negates their flotation, but they're not chemically bound to the water at all. Counter-intuitively when people talk of carbonic bite it's not the carbonic acid in the beer that is responsible. It's the loosely bound CO2 which forms carbonic acid directly on the tongue. So, beer with a lot of loosely bound CO2 will give carbonic bite, and go flat quickly. One way to cause the CO2 to bind more tightly is to carb it warm, and then drop the temperature.

For anyone wanting to read in detail about the intricacies of carbonation I can recommend this ebooklet by Bob Molony, a consultant chemist to the food and beverage industry.
 
I'm so glad you brought that up. This is a bugbear of mine and I've been wanting to get it off my chest for months. I've seen similar advice in numerous postings, I've seen it in BYO articles, even the odd chemistry graduate will trot it out, but it's 100% wrong. Well somewhat more than half wrong at least - bear with me. I believe proponents of chill and carb are confusing to different concepts - solubility and rate of dissolution. Solubility describes what happens when the system is in equilibrium. Rate of dissolution is concerned with kinematics; how fast the system gets to equilibrium.

Gas solubility in a liquid (or a solid for that matter) increases with a decrease in temperature, but for a given equilibrium concentration the rate of dissolution will not. Of course to achieve the same equilibrium concentration at a higher temperature you need more pressure.

For example if you want to carb a beer to 2.5vols you can apply 10psi of CO2 at 2degC, or 27psi at 20degC. The beer at room temperature will be carbed sooner than the cold beer. There's an obvious downside to carbing at room temperature, and it's the real reason that breweries carb cold - normally you've already chilled the beer before carbing and you want it cold after carbing. Warming up the beer, and then chilling it again takes time and energy.

However, there is an additional benefit to carbing before chilling. CO2 can exist in water in a number of different states. At one end of the spectrum C02 will bind relatively tightly with water to form carbonic acid. At the other end nanobubbles are subject to viscous forces which effectively negates their flotation, but they're not chemically bound to the water at all. Counter-intuitively when people talk of carbonic bite it's not the carbonic acid in the beer that is responsible. It's the loosely bound CO2 which forms carbonic acid directly on the tongue. So, beer with a lot of loosely bound CO2 will give carbonic bite, and go flat quickly. One way to cause the CO2 to bind more tightly is to carb it warm, and then drop the temperature.

For anyone wanting to read in detail about the intricacies of carbonation I can recommend this ebooklet by Bob Molony, a consultant chemist to the food and beverage industry.

I have a fairly extensive chemistry/science background and i have to admit - you've lost me.

In your example of 10psi @ 2 degrees vs 27 psi at 20 degrees I definitely get that 27 psi at 20 degrees is faster (assuming your math is correct and they both equilibrate at the same volume of CO2). Higher temperatures = higher energy = **** happens faster. However, in that example youre measuring time to end point and the end point is equilibrium (which happens to be 2.5 volumes)

In my scenario of carbing at 30 psi at 2 degrees versus carbing at 30 psi at room temperature my endpoints are very different. One is equilibrium and one isn't equilibrium. I have no idea what the equilibrium volume would be if i left it longer but it would certainly be higher than 2.5 volumes, I will randomly guess it is 5 volumes. I pull my keg off the gas after 2 minutes of sloshing around at 2 degrees. Im pretty sure that after 2 minutes of sloshing around at 2 degrees my beer is at roughly the desired 2.5 volumes of CO2, nowhere near the equilibrium volume of 5. My beer just rode that real steep first part of the curve up to 2.5 volumes and then hopped off the curve when disconnected from the gas after 2 minutes.

So basically what im saying is that my beer at 2 degrees and 30 psi rides the really steep part of the dissolution curve headed towards 5 volumes of CO2 but hops off the curve at 2.5 volumes which is quicker than riding an entire curve whose destination is 2.5 volumes. So with my regulator with a maximum pressure of around 30 psi its definitely gonna be faster to carb it cold than warm. I get what youre saying though, if I carb'd it at 60psi while warm it would probably get to my desired carbonation level faster - but realistically that isnt feasible with most peoples equipment - and therefor it'll carb faster when cold.

As for the second part of your post about the nano bubbles of CO2 forming carbonic acid when contacting the tongue - I can grasp the physics behind that but Im not sure if that is going to realistically matter. Immediately after carbonating if you serve the beer then sure I could get behind this idea of carbonic acid vs nano CO2 bubbles. But after my carb'd beers been sitting in the kegerator for a week i dont think this phenonmenon would matter any more. Any bubbles of CO2, be it the gigantic bubble of headspace or any "nano" bubbles hanging out in the beer is still going to equilibrate over time. This equilibrium of forming carbonic acid is going to depend only on the dissolution constant of CO2 and water. It'll take more or less time to get there to this equilbrium depending on the surface area of gas/liquid as well as the constant will change with temperature but its still going to equilibrate in my keg over the next few weeks. So im skeptical that there would be any noticeable difference between beer that was carb'd warm vs cold to the same volume of CO2 2 weeks later.

My 2 cents lol
 
So perhaps I will agree with you that it is a misconception that cold liquid absorbs gases faster than hot per say, but I can definitely get my beer carb'd faster if its cold than if it were warm given the limitations to the amount of pressure of CO2 I am able to apply with my regulator to the beer
 
In your example of 10psi @ 2 degrees vs 27 psi at 20 degrees I definitely get that 27 psi at 20 degrees is faster (assuming your math is correct and they both equilibrate at the same volume of CO2). Higher temperatures = higher energy = **** happens faster. However, in that example youre measuring time to end point and the end point is equilibrium (which happens to be 2.5 volumes)

In my scenario of carbing at 30 psi at 2 degrees versus carbing at 30 psi at room temperature my endpoints are very different. One is equilibrium and one isn't equilibrium. I have no idea what the equilibrium volume would be if i left it longer but it would certainly be higher than 2.5 volumes, I will randomly guess it is 5 volumes. I pull my keg off the gas after 2 minutes of sloshing around at 2 degrees. Im pretty sure that after 2 minutes of sloshing around at 2 degrees my beer is at roughly the desired 2.5 volumes of CO2, nowhere near the equilibrium volume of 5. My beer just rode that real steep first part of the curve up to 2.5 volumes and then hopped off the curve when disconnected from the gas after 2 minutes.

So basically what im saying is that my beer at 2 degrees and 30 psi rides the really steep part of the dissolution curve headed towards 5 volumes of CO2 but hops off the curve at 2.5 volumes which is quicker than riding an entire curve whose destination is 2.5 volumes. So with my regulator with a maximum pressure of around 30 psi its definitely gonna be faster to carb it cold than warm. I get what youre saying though, if I carb'd it at 60psi while warm it would probably get to my desired carbonation level faster - but realistically that isnt feasible with most peoples equipment - and therefor it'll carb faster when cold.

As for the second part of your post about the nano bubbles of CO2 forming carbonic acid when contacting the tongue - I can grasp the physics behind that but Im not sure if that is going to realistically matter. Immediately after carbonating if you serve the beer then sure I could get behind this idea of carbonic acid vs nano CO2 bubbles. But after my carb'd beers been sitting in the kegerator for a week i dont think this phenonmenon would matter any more. Any bubbles of CO2, be it the gigantic bubble of headspace or any "nano" bubbles hanging out in the beer is still going to equilibrate over time. This equilibrium of forming carbonic acid is going to depend only on the dissolution constant of CO2 and water. It'll take more or less time to get there to this equilbrium depending on the surface area of gas/liquid as well as the constant will change with temperature but its still going to equilibrate in my keg over the next few weeks. So im skeptical that there would be any noticeable difference between beer that was carb'd warm vs cold to the same volume of CO2 2 weeks later.

My 2 cents lol

Oh, did I forget to mention that I'm a pedantic academic:D

Your counter argument is why I said the chill and carb theory is "at least half wrong". The practicalities of having cold beer to start with and equipment limitations mean that most brewers are going to chill and carb.

However, by carbing at 30psi and 2degC you run into another limitation of most brewery carbonation systems - there's no effective way to measure the volume of CO2 that you've introduced to the beer. So either you over-carb, or you under-carb and then have to continue with the slow method of applying 10psi at 2degC.

You're right that you wouldn't notice any carbonic bite after a week. The method of carbing and then dropping the temperature is just a way of speeding up the process of achieving full equilibrium i.e. across all the states of CO2 in water. The hot process that carbonated beverage producers use works in hours not weeks. I mentioned the temperature drop advantage mostly because it explains the physics of what many people (including Denny) have noted anecodotely - that beer can be carbonated, but it has to sit a while before it isn't easily uncarbonated.

The thing that I've always found amazing is that beer can stay carbonated in a glass at all. It's essentially a supersatured solution and it's only due to some very quirky interactions between CO2 and water that the gas and liquid don't separate immediately.

Mencken: For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong.

Eddington: Not only is the universe stranger than we imagine, it is stranger than we can imagine.
 
Personally, I drop the warm keg in to the fridge and set the regulator to 45 PSI and check it about 24 hours later. If there was some head space in the keg, it's usually ready at that point. If the keg was super full it might need another few hours. Usually end up with about the right volumes of co2. The keg levels out after a few pours and days at the correct serving pressure.
 
So - I have 3 kegs to carb before my birthday party in 8 days. My kegerator got delayed in transit so I'm using my fermentation fridge which sadly doesn't fit two kegs and the gas cylinder.

I put the first keg on at 25 psi @ 2C for 24 hours on Wednesday, reduced it to 13psi @ 8.5C yesterday. I was thinking another day or two and that one will be ready, repeat for other two kegs.

Now I fear I don't have enough time, that they will need longer.

I have a splitter and two QDs so can do two kegs at once.

Any views on whether I should:
- stick to plan A maybe with psi or temp adjusted
- carb the second two at once at room temp
- drill a hole in the fridge and carb two in that (I need to serve from it at the party so that may in inevitable, can seal it afterwards)
 
So - I have 3 kegs to carb before my birthday party in 8 days. My kegerator got delayed in transit so I'm using my fermentation fridge which sadly doesn't fit two kegs and the gas cylinder.

I put the first keg on at 25 psi @ 2C for 24 hours on Wednesday, reduced it to 13psi @ 8.5C yesterday. I was thinking another day or two and that one will be ready, repeat for other two kegs.

Now I fear I don't have enough time, that they will need longer.

I have a splitter and two QDs so can do two kegs at once.

Any views on whether I should:
- stick to plan A maybe with psi or temp adjusted
- carb the second two at once at room temp
- drill a hole in the fridge and carb two in that (I need to serve from it at the party so that may in inevitable, can seal it afterwards)

8 days is plenty of time for set and forget carbing whether you do it in the fridge or out. When I carb cold I usually intend to wait 7 days, but end up trying it after 5 and it's fine.

13psi at 8.5C is slightly unusual. Is that the temperature you intend to serve it at?

Assuming you want them at 2.2vol, I'd put 23psi at 20C on the two you haven't carbed yet. Periodically pull the QDs off, drop the pressure to 13psi and see if the keg at 8.5C will take any more gas. After a couple of days taste the keg at 8.5C. If that's good take it out of the fridge, and put the others in. When they've chilled taste and adjust carbonation as necessary.

Whether to drill the fridge probably depends on whether you're likely to use it as a keg fridge once the kegerator arrives.

Happy Birthday.:mug:
 
Thanks for the feedback! First kegging experience so concerned I am going to make a mistake.

8.5C was the serving temp, yes. Well I set my temp controller to 8 or 9C and it allows a variation of 0.5C before cutting power so it's sitting around 8.5. The carb chart says 13psi gets me 2.3 vols or so.

Anyway, follow up questions please, sir:
- how do you tell if the keg will take more gas?
- how long to put the 2 kegs on at 23psi? Any shaking required? How long and vigorous?
- when you say drop it to 13psi at 8.5, that's putting the kegs in the fridge which will take some time to get down to temp so that's not supposed to be a quick check right?
- one of the beers I only kegged on Wednesday, good to carb now?

I won't use the fridge for serving once the kegerator arrives, will be back to the fermentation fridge. But I want at least two kegs cold during the party so don't have the cylinder inside. I figure I can seal the hole afterwards ok.
 
The carb chart says 13psi gets me 2.3 vols or so.

Yep, that's right. If this is the first time you've used your regulator, you might want to bear in mind that the pressure gauges are not always accurate, and the tables are designed for an ASBC 'standard beer'. You might have to tweak the pressure until you get the degree of carbonation you want.

Anyway, follow up questions please, sir:
- how do you tell if the keg will take more gas?

If it takes more gas you'll hear gas flowing through the regulator when you connect the QD.

- how long to put the 2 kegs on at 23psi? Any shaking required? How long and vigorous?

Two or three days should be enough. Shaking will speed up carbonation as will laying the keg on its side. The danger with that is that if the pressure in the keg increases and/or the regulator pressure drops then you force beer into the regulator - not good. If you want to shake the keg, keep shaking until you can't hear gas flowing through the regulator.

- when you say drop it to 13psi at 8.5, that's putting the kegs in the fridge which will take some time to get down to temp so that's not supposed to be a quick check right?

No. I was suggesting that periodically (a few times a day) you ...

* take the QDs off the kegs outside the fridge
* drop the reg pressure to 13psi
* attach the QD to the keg in the fridge at 8.5C and see if it takes more gas. If it it doesn't then that suggests that it's reached equilibrium. Otherwise you'll need to keep doing this.
* then take the QD off the cold keg, turn the reg pressure back up to 23psi and reconnect the QDs to the room temperature kegs

- one of the beers I only kegged on Wednesday, good to carb now?

Yep. No harm in carbing it ASAP.

I won't use the fridge for serving once the kegerator arrives, will be back to the fermentation fridge. But I want at least two kegs cold during the party so don't have the cylinder inside. I figure I can seal the hole afterwards ok.

Ok. It's always handy to have the option. Just so long as you can avoid drilling through any plumbing in the side of the fridge. If you're not sure how to do that, PM me.
 
Thanks for the splendid advice, I have applied it with varying degrees of success.

I tried to beer that was in the fridge at 13psi/8.5C, I got a bit of head on it but otherwise pretty flat. I decided to force carb it a bit, had it on its side on my knees agitating it, did that for 5 minutes @ 25 psi, then left it until tonight. It's better but doesn't seem carbed enough yet. It's cloudy being the first couple of glasses so can't see how bubbly it is, but it doesn't seem zingy. But better. So planning to force some more into it tomorrow.

I hooked up the two room temp kegs overnight on 25psi, visited them this morning to find a bit of beer in the line (not backed up to the regulator though, just a bit). I recall one of the kegs I filled quite high up so I am assuming it's that one. I've unhooked that one and put it in the fridge, I plan to try it on a lower pressure - any other advice for dealing with an overfilled keg (aside from dumping a litre of beer?). The other one I have hooked back up and it seems happy enough.

So - I am speculating I can force carb the first keg tomorrow up to pressure, do the second one slowly for 5 days and force carb the third.
 
any other advice for dealing with an overfilled keg (aside from dumping a litre of beer?).

I can't suggest much beyond "be careful". Obviously the problem occurs when the pressure in the keg is greater than the regulator pressure. This can occur with fluctuating keg temperature, or (more likely) when you reconnect the QD and you set the regulator pressure slightly lower.

In the first case keeping the temperature steady is all you do. In the second case venting a bit of pressure through the pressure release valve on the lid gives some insurance.

You should have a check valve between the QD and the reg, but don't rely on it - they seldom work.
 
Add priming sugar and spund (or seal and monitor pressure). It’ll be done in a couple days at room temp. Better carbonation and very low packaged oxygen.
 
Add priming sugar and spund (or seal and monitor pressure). It’ll be done in a couple days at room temp. Better carbonation and very low packaged oxygen.

I'm probably a bit far in now for that to be an approach with a known outcome, I've had the room temp keg plugged in for two days, would be hard to guess how much sugar from here. But if my gas powered efforts are painful, I'll be interested.

Anyway, I managed to force carb the full one ok without incident. I put it on its side with the gas post on the top, seemed to go fine. That was this morning. I tried it tonight, not bad. Pretty cloudy which isn't surprising so hard to tell exactly how much fizzing was going on but it poured quite well and tasted nice. Back in the fridge with it, will try it again later in the week.
 
I'm probably a bit far in now for that to be an approach with a known outcome, I've had the room temp keg plugged in for two days, would be hard to guess how much sugar from here. But if my gas powered efforts are painful, I'll be interested.

Natural carbonation IMHO is the best way to go for kegging and is waaaay under hyped. If you get a spunding valve you can just set the pressure to match the actual temperature and desired carbonation level. I normally use about 2-3oz of priming sugar per keg and that always seems to be more than required. Aim just a little high and any excess pressure will be vented. Your serving CO2 tank will last A LOT longer too.
 
Back
Top