Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

What's the difference between brass and stainless. I've bad things about brass fittings. Even though some of those fittings say lead free they are not.

Thank you kindly day_trippr. I am glad someone else has already done the leg work, so I can avoid multiple trips to HD to get the necessary parts.

Fwiw, I'm not sure one can obtain parts for an optimal 1/2" solution from a big box store. I got my all-SS bulkhead and 3-piece ball valve from my lhbs, and iirc they got it from either Midwest or Northern Brewer. But it's all 1/2" SS fittings...

Cheers!

Fantastic thread OP. As a soon to be new AG brewer this tutorial was invaluable. Unfortunately,I couldn't find food grade or high heat vinyl tubing at my home depot so I might have to get that online in order to line the inside of my hose.

You easily saved me hours, thanks!!

Thought I'd let FlyGuy and everyone else know that I just posted my DIY build that followed this guide, but changed a few tiny things because I had an Igloo 10 Gallon Industrial (yellow) Cooler. You can see my build here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/di...rcial-yellow-water-cooler-416889/#post5280527

You're amazing FG, thanks!

I found this stuff to make some washers. Anybody know if it is or is not 'food grade'?

Melchior said:

I've searched a bit through this thread, but haven't found anything that addresses the fact that Home Depot 10 gallon coolers have a larger opening now, and the 3/8" size is no where close to what is needed.

Has anyone built one recently with this new cooler, and if so, did you just increase the size of all the parts?

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I just recently built this using pretty much all the parts listed here. You may have got a weird cooler, I got the 10 gal orange home depot brand for around $45, I think it was. The nipple portion fit tightly through the original sealing ring that came in the cooler, and the oring fit perfectly inside from the other side. I did need quite a few more washers though to make it tight.... but I cheated that part.

Instead of more washers, I used the extra orings I had (could only buy a 10 pack) and alternated between an oring and a washer to increase the thickness. Using this method I got a very tight seal with only 3 washers.

mtdenham said:

What's the difference between brass and stainless. I've bad things about brass fittings. Even though some of those fittings say lead free they are not.

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I am no expert, but my understanding is that some brass has lead in it. So you will want to look for the parts that state they are lead free. Stainless steel is considered high end for most builds, but cost more. So if you have the money, I would go stainless and impress all your friends.

If money is an issue, look for lead free.

I finished my cooler MLT. Used this rectangular cooler and the hole where the spigot was was pretty big. I used the stuff in my post above to make enough washers to get it tight, couldnt find any steel washers in the right size. I didn't use enough rubber ones at first, and it leaked, but I made more and now it is tight.
I also boiled some water with some of this material in it (smells like the neoprene rubber washers I also used) and tasted it to see if I couod taste any flavors. Not a very scientific method maybe, but it tasted better after boiling with neoprene than from my tap, maybe 'cause the chlorine was gone. By a taste test at least, this stuff seems to not leech anything in boiling water.

Had to create an account to say thanks, came across this in a search. Build was quite a bit of fun as was reading the various posts. My rectangular 'NAPA Auto' cooler (actually a Gott) only needed a stainless washer against the built in O-ring as the 5/8" hardware pretty much screwed right into the gasket since the fit was so tight.

Juiced the brass with HP and Vinegar for 2 mins, that was good to know.

I actually PULLED my plastic hose out of the supply line stainless housing. Someone mentioned it's like a Chinese handcuff, totally right, super helpful on that tip.

Skipped the hose clamps and zip tied it.

Outside valve can turn like many have said, but it doesn't leak, may hit it with a dab of epoxy on the exterior of the valve/cooler.

Gotta agree that for the hard to find parts, the big box stores just don't work. Ace in Beaverton, OR has Stainless washers (not Fender washers, dunno if that matters) for about 60 cents each.

Yeah, I got better stuff at an Ace too. I hate HD, it really sucks!

Melchior said:

I've searched a bit through this thread, but haven't found anything that addresses the fact that Home Depot 10 gallon coolers have a larger opening now, and the 3/8" size is no where close to what is needed.

Has anyone built one recently with this new cooler, and if so, did you just increase the size of all the parts?

Click to expand...

I was struggling with getting my 5 gallon Rubbermaid/Home Depot cooler HLT to seal properly with 3/8" fittings (although my MLT did seal OK eventually) - I gave up and just ordered a couple of 1/2" S/S kits from a brewing vendor (I forget which), which I eventually got to work right - you need thread tape on the inside fittings as well as the outside one. I think these kits were probably cheaper than buying the components at Home Depot as there isn't the waste of money and time trying to get the right bits that fit.

I could have sourced the parts myself I think, but it would've taken a lot longer...

dyqik said:

I was struggling with getting my 5 gallon Rubbermaid/Home Depot cooler HLT to seal properly with 3/8" fittings (although my MLT did seal OK eventually) - I gave up and just ordered a couple of 1/2" S/S kits from a brewing vendor (I forget which), which I eventually got to work right - you need thread tape on the inside fittings as well as the outside one. I think these kits were probably cheaper than buying the components at Home Depot as there isn't the waste of money and time trying to get the right bits that fit.

I could have sourced the parts myself I think, but it would've taken a lot longer...

Click to expand...

You may have answered the question i came to ask, can half inch nipples fit through the hole properly?

I ask because after going to the brew store to look at some Cam lock's i realized that my 3/8 barb makes it basically impossible to hook a camlock up to it.

Actually while writing this i realized for my kettle i ordered a 1/2" nipple that was too long and made my ball valve stick way out...maybe just maybe i can find that!

FuzzeWuzze said:

You may have answered the question i came to ask, can half inch nipples fit through the hole properly?

I ask because after going to the brew store to look at some Cam lock's i realized that my 3/8 barb makes it basically impossible to hook a camlock up to it.

Actually while writing this i realized for my kettle i ordered a 1/2" nipple that was too long and made my ball valve stick way out...maybe just maybe i can find that!

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They do fit through nicely, with one washer on each side and a couple of o-rings to seal the washer on the front to the cooler seal. The kit I ordered had a 1/2" nipple about 1.5" long - the kind which just shows a 1/4" gap in the middle between the threads, plus a female coupler, two o-rings, three washers, the ball valve and hose fitting, all in stainless.

Looking at the prices online at Homedepot, I think the kit was cheaper than buying stainless parts from somewhere like there - $28.50 each from bargainfittings.com - but you can probably part it out cheaper if you have a good local independent hardware store or if you are OK with using brass.

I'd like to thank Flyguy and anyone else who has contributed to this thread. I recently started wading into AG via the BIAB route. However, I'm a tinkerer and can't leave well enough alone so I wanted to move to a three vessel setup. After reading this thread(and about a thousand others) I took the plunge today and cobbled together a 5g mash tun using a Rubbermaid 5g cylindrical cooler.

I left the stock rubber or plastic grommet in the spigot hole and used all 3/8" parts. Everything fit like a glove. On the inside, I used a 5/8" o ring and a s/s washer in front of a T , with a barb on each side, allowing me to create a loop of mesh braid. I'm not sure that this even makes a ton of difference but I did it anyhow. The outside required 3 washers to give the valve handle enough clearance.

I know most of you would go all s/s, but I was able to find everything in lead free brass. Not ideal, I know, but it fit the current budget. Here's the good part, I put the entire MT together for $46. That includes the cooler.

For those of you in WI, I sourced all my parts at Menards. They have the 5g Rubbermaid cooler for $16. They even had the elusive 5/8" stainless washers.

Now, to upgrade my boil kettle...

Found a 10gal cooler on a local FB site for selling stuff. Got it for 15. Excited to get everything else so I can dive fully into AG. Great notes on here.

i did a similar setup just the other day with a 48qt cooler. i found the stainless fender washers at Menards. pretty cheap too. came in packs of 5 if im not mistaken

I was going to build my own with Home Depot parts, but with a false bottom from a homebrew supplier. Unfortunately HD didn't have fender washers or silicon O-rings. I was still going to have to search for them, and I didn't know about bargainfittings.com, yet.

That same weekend, Northern Brewer was offering a free refractometer with their 10-gallon mashtun/sparge tank combo set, which included a false bottom. The refractometer happened to be the difference in price between parting it out myself (I know--I made a spreadsheet!) versus just ordering the damn thing from NB. So I drove back to Home Depot, returned my parts, and ordered the system from NB. Without the refractometer, I would have built it myself.

Unfortunately NB sent pipe nipples too long for the cooler walls... hopefully that will be resolved shortly.

Well, just started on this project. Got everything but... you guessed it... 5/8" SS Fender Washers.

First thing's first - is a Fender washer mandatory, or would a flat washer work? There's WAY too many posts to go through to find the answer to that.

Second - I called a couple of Marina shop's and they have tonnes of SS washers in all sizes. I live right on the coast so there's lots here and the price for one washer is 67 cents.

Sweet.

All I need is that O ring (which HD carries but were sold out of) and I'm good to go.

SS washers are what you need whatever they want to call them. "Fender" washers are usually large washers with smaller holes. Take your fittings with you to make sure the washers you buy fit.

Damoxemus said:

is a Fender washer mandatory, or would a flat washer work?

All I need is that O ring (which HD carries but were sold out of) and I'm good to go.

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I just finished mine, and had first tried to get these parts, unsuccessfully, at Home Depot.

The problem is that you need a washer with a 5/8" hole, and a maximum outside diameter of not much more than 1", or it won't fit on the inside of the cooler (the spout hole is close to the bottom). And it has to be pretty rigid and thick just to do its job of holding the washer down tight. I don't know if "fender washer" specifically means something with that small outside to inside diameter ratio and still fairly thick... but if it does, then you need a fender washer.

Other people with access to shop tools have started with a flat washer and have drilled the central hole larger.

Others have mentioned bargainfittings.com, which has the washers and your o-rings. And these parts are a lot easier to find on bargainfittings.com than on McMaster Carr's website. That's what I'd do if your local option doesn't pan out.

Thanks Grem,

I'm sure they'll fit in, just want to make sure they'll fit into the cooler after. I think the Fender washer would be to big so I'm just going to grab 4 SS 5/8 washers from a marine supply shop.

That said, I will take the stuff to make sure.

The trick for me is that those washers are hard to find solo, but if you look in the same isle for a multi pack you should find it easily. It comes with washers and nuts and possibly something else, I don't recall. But you get about 4 washers in the multi pack and was the only place I could find them in home depot.

Do the Home Depot Rubbermaid 10 gallon coolers generally stand flat, or do they tend to rock a little bit? The one I just picked up does, and I'm trying to decide if I should return it or just live with it

fosaisu said:

Do the Home Depot Rubbermaid 10 gallon coolers generally stand flat, or do they tend to rock a little bit? The one I just picked up does, and I'm trying to decide if I should return it or just live with it

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To at least partially answer my own question, I've now been to two different (Denver area) Home Depos and all the 10 gallon coolers I looked at have a slightly uneven bottom. Maybe just a mfr defect in the most recent lot to make it to my area, but maybe that's just the deal with these coolers. Not a huge deal for sure so I guess I'll just live with it.

fosaisu said:

Do the Home Depot Rubbermaid 10 gallon coolers generally stand flat, or do they tend to rock a little bit? The one I just picked up does, and I'm trying to decide if I should return it or just live with it

Click to expand...

I bought two orange 10 gallon Rubbermaid coolers from a different source. Both rock slightly when empty. But not when full, so functionally it doesn't matter at all.

So, I went and got all the stuff needed to build this but the 3/8 brass nipple doesn't fit. It seems too small. The original spigot and seal are about 3/4 inch. Here's a pic below for comparison.


I'm hoping to find a 3/4" female coupling that can just put the nipple into and then buy another one for the other side. I thought of getting a 3/4" nipple as well, but I don't think I could find SS washers big enough to fit on there as 5/8 was the biggest I could find.


Suggestions?

3/8 is for the hose. 5/8 for the threads.
If I'm understanding you right.

well, the brass nippple is what goes through the cooler and connects the outside to the inside.

If you click this video (it's at the specific time needed), you'll see he has to wiggle that nipple and barely gets it through.

With my Cooler there's about 1/8 to 1/4" of room, so it's not tight at all. Def not air tight.

My brass nipple on the right in that picture is much too small to fit securely into that seal on the left (top).

I had to switch to 1/2" fittings, which fit well in my 5 gallon HD orange cooler. The kit I bought comes in 3/8" and 1/2" versions for different round coolers (HD Orange coolers are 1/2", Igloo are 3/8" I think).

Damoxemus said:

My brass nipple on the right in that picture is much too small to fit securely into that seal on the left (top).

Click to expand...

You've definitely got the wrong nipple. And, by extension, your valves, couplings, etc will be wrong, too. Sorry.

Swapped my entire brass setup with this

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=85

Best money i spent, honestly i wish i had just found this when i was putting mine together in the first place.

Basically the same price after buying so many $3-4 fittings at Homedepot/Lowes.

Trippel-A said:

You've definitely got the wrong nipple. And, by extension, your valves, couplings, etc will be wrong, too. Sorry.

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Ya, apparently all the newer Igloos have a larger spigot opening (7/8"), according to this thread:


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/problems-converting-cooler-mash-tun-360896/


Going to try the gaskets as recommended there.

Do these still cost ~$90 to build?

DurtyChemist said:

Do these still cost ~$90 to build?

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Depends on where you buy your stuff. I bought my 48 quart cooler off of Craig's list for $10 and the remaining hardware from Menards under $30. However, this is using a stainless steel braid from a water supply line hose. I have sewn some braid covers from voile cloth to help with filter the wort from the grain. I secure the open end with a zip tie and I have never had a stuck mash with this system.

msa8967 said:

Depends on where you buy your stuff. I bought my 48 quart cooler off of Craig's list for $10 and the remaining hardware from Menards under $30. However, this is using a stainless steel braid from a water supply line hose. I have sewn some braid covers from voile cloth to help with filter the wort from the grain. I secure the open end with a zip tie and I have never had a stuck mash with this system.

Click to expand...

1.25 qt/lb? Have you tyied a 25 pound grain bill?

Wow nice job.

I didn't read all 260 plus posts so forgive me if this was already addressed. If so, please re-direct me accordingly.

I purchased a round 10 gallon Home Depot cooler today, just like shown in the OP and various other locations showing the same cooler for this type of build.

...Am I the first one to get a cooler with the spigot hole off center (low) in the exterior circular spigot indentation thus not allowing 5/8 SS fender washers to sit properly? I measured it, the space between the male-male adapter (that the ball valve screws onto) when it is level (perpendicular to cooler walls) is 1/4". The bottom of the 5/8 SS fender washer extends another 1/8" or so past the indented area...

If I were to place a straight-on photo of it you'd see the circular indentation area of the orange outer wall for the spigot. Then you'd notice the hole for the spigot low (off center) by over 1/8" from the center of the indentation.

I'm going to try various ways to shave off the eighth inch plus or so of the three washers, the dremel was a joke in that regard.

Anyone else find such a dilemma?

Trippel-A said:

I just finished mine, and had first tried to get these parts, unsuccessfully, at Home Depot.

The problem is that you need a washer with a 5/8" hole, and a maximum outside diameter of not much more than 1", or it won't fit on the inside of the cooler (the spout hole is close to the bottom). And it has to be pretty rigid and thick just to do its job of holding the washer down tight. I don't know if "fender washer" specifically means something with that small outside to inside diameter ratio and still fairly thick... but if it does, then you need a fender washer.

Other people with access to shop tools have started with a flat washer and have drilled the central hole larger.

Others have mentioned bargainfittings.com, which has the washers and your o-rings. And these parts are a lot easier to find on bargainfittings.com than on McMaster Carr's website. That's what I'd do if your local option doesn't pan out.

Click to expand...

...Wish I'da read this post before spending $ at Home Depot...

Tutsbrew said:

...Wish I'da read this post before spending $ at Home Depot...

Click to expand...

Should have read some of the other pages.