Guide to Making a Frozen Yeast Bank

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Awesome thread! With my current living situation I have to get all my yeast brought in from out of the country and this plus the washing will let me become essentially self sustaining with my yeast cultures once I get them here.

At the very least I should only need to have friends bring me new packets every year or 2.
 
I found some stuff at my local HBS that says "Glycerine, To mellow and smooth out wines". Is this the same stuff used to freeze yeast? I went ahead and did a test to use it and found that out of the two vials, one froze into a solid mass and the other has remained liquid. Does this mean the solid one failed?
 
I found some stuff at my local HBS that says "Glycerine, To mellow and smooth out wines". Is this the same stuff used to freeze yeast? I went ahead and did a test to use it and found that out of the two vials, one froze into a solid mass and the other has remained liquid. Does this mean the solid one failed?

Is it the same stuff? I would think so. Did that vial fail that appeared to freeze? I doubt it. I have been doing this for over a year now and typically use about 1/3 glycerine to 2/3 yeast in each vial. I have used smaller amounts of glycerine and sometimes the vials appear to be frozen, but then when I do a yeast starter and pitch the yeast everything turns out just fine. Possibly add a bit more glycerine next time.
 
Introducing my latest Inator. The Frozen Yeast BankInator!





Thanks for the tutorial. I dont have the convenience of a lhbs and am a little reluctant ordering liquid yeast in the summer. In fact I've only used dry yeast over the years because of that. I recently built a stir plate as well as bought a stir bar and 2000 ml flask. I read that Sierra Nevada Pale Ale bottle conditions using the chico strain and I painstakingly decanted 12 beers into a glass leaving only the slightest amount in the bottle, swirled, and dumped the remainder in a starter. So far it seems to a successful experiment. I did a 3 step starter and got a pretty decent slurry with a 1.020 wort I collected from my last brew session after I collected the final volume.



I got 9 15ml vials and dumped the rest of the slurry into a baby food jar.



Being an experiment and all I feel like I did not get a large enough slurry in the finished vials. How does this look?

 
Being an experiment and all I feel like I did not get a large enough slurry in the finished vials. How does this look?

You could always remove liquid from the vials and replace it with yeast slurry from the baby food jar.

My vials are all about 1/4 yeast after they settle.
 
Weird that the day I start looking into a yeast bank this pops up. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1409947719.837810.jpg

Evidently it's a smaller autoclave used primarily in tattoo parlors. It goes for 550 new. They are asking 50. The price has me a little concerned.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
From a local auction type Facebook page. What do you more experienced people think?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
From a local auction type Facebook page. What do you more experienced people think?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Looks expensive to fix...save the $50, wait a few more weeks for the canning stuff to go on sale, then get a pressure canner.

You can run pints/quarts of 1.020 and 1.040 wort for starters and dozens of vials all together in pint jars with tinfoil over the top. (The lids on the vials need to be loose, so the tinfoil on top give you an added barrier until the vials cool and can be closed)
 
Does anybody bank souring bugs? I know some cultures would get messed up in a starter. The varying amounts would change and you'd end up with more of sach or more of Brett or whatever else is in it. But in the more pure strains is there a risk of cross contamination between vials? Any way to prevent this?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Only problem with this is you spend more on starter ingredients than you would on a fresh pack of yeast.
When you do your next batch of beer, just bump up the batch size by 4 to 6 cups. After you sparge, collect that extra wort and freeze it in a zip loc baggy. And...there you go. Cheap wort for your starter AND cheap yeast. I save money like crazy doing this.:rockin:
 
Is it possible ,when pressure canning wort for 30 minutes,to make it un-fermentable? After 48+ hours no OG drop in a stir plate with fresh yeast.
 
If the wort was fermentable going into the pressure cooker, no. If pressure cooking altered food this much it wouldn't be a viable way of preserving food.
 
Why would you want unfermentable wort?

I would assume that he does NOT but is asking if he decides to can wort (to preserve for future starters) would it still be fermentable.

I often take 2nd or 3rd runnings, boil them, and then place into quart jars for future starters. I however do not actually "can them".

This is a great way to save money by not buying DME. You do have to make sure your wort is closer to 1.030-1.040 to do this and I always mark my jars. It is an AWESOME thing though to have "starter wort" in the fridge when you want to make a starter or feed your yeast stock.
 
Would it be ok to freeze the vials in little blocks of ice, to keep them stable in a defrosting freezer? I was thinking of freezing them in those little popsicle moulds.
 
Provided the ice doesnt swell enough to crack the vials I would think it should work. I would run a test batch without yeast a few times first though, myself.
 
I wonder how it would work if I use 4 ounce jelly jars to freeze. That would mean approximately 1 ounce of glycerin per jar. If I thawed out and used a jar's worth to make a starter, would that much glycerin cause a problem? Would the glycerin settle out in the starter, or in a batch of beer? My thinking is that the contents of a 4 ounce jar would be enough to make a larger starter, with fewer steps than if using vials.
 
I don't know if this was discussed before, but has anyone tryed to freeze yeast in sterile syringes? I am about to do that because i don't have another vessel to try... all my glass vials are agar slants.
I can get 10ml, 20ml or even 50 ml syringes for cheap, just open the sterile package, suck some sterile glycerin solution and yeast slurry and that's it.
 
Followed the guide, transferred to vials from my white lab yeast, corrected for size difference.
For some reason my attempt was a failure, the vials froze and crystalized.

I guess I was too optimistic, and should have tried out with a less valuable
yeast than the one I started with (from local brewery, not on market) : (
I will try to bring it back to life, but not sure how much damage two days with frost crystals have done... we'll see.

I didn't read through the 75 pages of the thread. Have anyone else experienced this? My Fridge is set to -21 degrees Celsius.
 
Followed the guide, transferred to vials from my white lab yeast, corrected for size difference.
For some reason my attempt was a failure, the vials froze and crystalized.

I guess I was too optimistic, and should have tried out with a less valuable
yeast than the one I started with (from local brewery, not on market) : (
I will try to bring it back to life, but not sure how much damage two days with frost crystals have done... we'll see.

I didn't read through the 75 pages of the thread. Have anyone else experienced this? My Fridge is set to -21 degrees Celsius.

I wouldn't let the frost crystals scare you too much.
I use a 15% solution and it always freezes solid.
I haven't had any trouble bringing them back when needed using a step starter. Takes about a week to get them healthy and happy again.
 
I wouldn't let the frost crystals scare you too much.
I use a 15% solution and it always freezes solid.
I haven't had any trouble bringing them back when needed using a step starter. Takes about a week to get them healthy and happy again.

Really? I thought that was the whole point to avoid? Can anyone elaborate?

Well me yeast did survive it seems. Poured my five 35 mL vials into a starter
and had great activity within 12 hours.

Will try again and test in a number of months if I can bring it back to life.
 
You are trying to avoid frost crystals inside the yeast cells.
They cells that take in glycerine inside their walls have the best chance of survival.
This is the reason that you should let them sit overnight in the fridge before freezing, gives them the chance to absorb it.
 
Awesome, that makes sense to me : )
I did the 48 hours in fridge with glycerine before freezing.
I guess I will just repeat my procedure again, thanks!
 
***YAAWN*** ***STRETCH***
I just read the whole thread! My equipment is here, and I'm ready to start my own yeast bank. Thanks to everyone who contributed!!

Since a lot of people say that they do not read the whole thread, here is a summary of what I learned. This may be useful for others. Make sure to read the first few posts with the excellent details first!

I AM NOT AN EXPERT ON THIS - I am just summarizing all these pages. Here is the summary

Why bother with freezing yeast?
:smack:
try this instead

Tubes:
- Get glass or polypropylene, both of which are autoclavable. In the US go to cynmar.com.
- size doesn't really matter - head space isn't an issue, get what's cheap and is large enough. Larger tubes let you make larger stores which may improve results, but that would take more yeasties per vial.
- if your caps, inserts, or vials melt or change color during the pressure cook, may not be the best plan to use them

Sterilization:
- chemical sterilization (e.g., star san, iodophor, etc) is bad, mmm-kay? That inevitable tiny blot of bacteria with 5000 cells can't compete with a healthy full pitch of yeast (slap pack, starter -> wort), but that same blot will take over your 10ml of yeast waking up from sleep
- some use the oven but there isn't consensus on that one.
- you can try tyndallization but its efficacy is debated and its a pain
- sanitation == clean enough to have good beer but still has bugs. Sterilization == no bugs (or spores, etc.)
- you need an autoclave or a pressure cooker that goes to 15 psi to be sure. Boiling in water is pretty sanitary, but not sterilized, it's too cold.
- sterilization is limited by the weakest link. If you use sterilized tubes, caps, baster, but freeze with washed yeast slurry instead of fresh yeast, you may get issues (but is better than not sterilizing!). If you use un-sterilized wort to build a starter, same issue.
- sterilization is less important as you go further through the process since your yeast get healthier and more abundant. Don't bother autoclaving your carboy.
- remember to try and clean the outside of tubes well, e.g., with a sanitizer, prior to opening just in case, but remember it doesn't kill everything.
- yes, your glycerol needs to be sterilized. food-safe isn't sufficient.

Glycerine / Glycerol
- same thing!
- USP is what you want. Food or pharmaceutical safe.
- commonly used as a skin moisturizer so watch for additives such as scents, etc.
- some use non-USP stuff and argue that it doesn't matter given how little ends up in the final beer.
- search amazon, wal mart et al.'s cosmetic isle, your pharmacy

Help! It's frozen / crystallized / separated
- it still freezes even with glycerol, depending on your fridge, ratio, etc., this is OK
- the yeast absorb glycerol into them which prevents rupturing. Mixing is to give yeast access, not only to pad them with glycerol. Separation is ok.
- they separate in random ways, doesn't seem to matter. You can do cool things to shake better.

How long does it last
- *shrug* - a year should be no problem? Highly variable.

How many generations?
- don't worry about it. look at it differently. Generation 1, you get 5 vials. Each time you grow one, you get 5 more -> 5*5 = 25 generation 2 vials. And on 3rd generation, 125 vials. :rockin:
- mutations are not a problem, as the chance of a mutation is high, but the chance of a mutation that sticks around AND makes an off flavor is very low
- bacteria grow exponentially. You miss just a measly 1000! and they double each generation! 1000->2000->4000->8000->16000->32000->64000.. you get the point. You are not perfect, and you are growing bacteria, too. More generations means more bacteria
- no hard rules. Some people pick 5 as a magic number, some wait until it tastes bad

Counting the yeast
- too many variables. Unless you have the right equipment, give up.
- you won't likely over pitch. Build up your starter (e.g., as below) to volumes you usually use and assume it works.

I want more detail! I'm a pro!
- read the previous 75 pages
- Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation
- First Steps in Yeast Culture Part One

What ratio of slurry to glycerine?
- no best answer
- some use 15-30% glycerol:slurry
- some use 1 part glycerol, 1 part water, 2 parts slurry (25%, 25%, 50%)
- some use 50% glycerol:slurry as it lowers the freezing point
- the freezing point of water/glycerol mixes is crazy and not intuitive.



PROCEDURES

A good procedure sheet.

Determine your target ratio glycerol and your target ML of yeast slurry. E.g., say I want 15ml of slurry per vial, and 20% glycerol:slurry, then I need target / (1- target) * slurry_ml of glycerol. In this case, .2 / (1-0.2) * 15 = 3.75ml of glycerol. I'd round up to 4ml of glycerol per vial.

Sterilizing
- use a pressure cooker / canner as per above.
- put your x ml of glycerol in each tube. You can measure the total amount in a single vessel and then distribute evenly, it's easier
- cap VERY loosely - so that air can get in and out - and place in a beaker, then in the pressure cooker. The glycerol won't evaporate
- place all items in the cooker including your pipette, starter vessel, etc. Sterilize (boil at full pressure for at least 20 min), and let it cool.
- cap tightly if the vials are not used immediately, but be warned that the outsides / caps / etc. will not be sterile soon

Freezing
- have a good batch of yeast. Either prepped washed yeast (see above! Not the safest!), yeast out of a slap pack, or built up from dry or liquid using sterilized wort and containers.
- measure out your amount of slurry into each vial. cap as you go
- mix the glycerol and yeast together by shaking
- label the vials! Strain, date, generation, notes, etc.
- place in the refrigerator for 48 hours to let the yeast acclimate and absorb the glycerol. Shake every now and then to ensure a good mix.
- place in freezer. If you have an auto-defrost, place the vials in some kind of insulating pack (e.g., kid's lunch bag with ice packs inside) to minimize temperature fluctuation.

Thawing
- make sure to leave several days for this given that you will step up
- quickly warm yeast by placing vial in room temp water (slow freeze, quick thaw!)
- may want to sanitize before opening by dipping it in your chemical of choice
- pitch into sterile starter, try not to step up more than 10x volume. In this case, with 15ml of slurry, even a 150ml micro starter wouldn't be a bad start, but many will start with a cup. Smaller starters help alcohol levels rise quickly to give better protection.
- step your starter up as usual and pitch!
- usual starter protocols are very important - aeration, nutrients, etc.


Whew! I hope this helps someone, it sure helped me clear my brain.. Please point out the errors or omissions and I can fix it. :mug:
 
I think it's a mistake to discount microscopy and yeast cell counting.

Consistent pitch rates are a hallmark of quality brewing..... can't do that guessing.
 
TRUF

What fun is that though?

Perfection is what I'm after. Ultimate control, exacting repeatability and predictable flavor profiles.

But that's me
 
How is freezing yeast incompatible with that? You'd count the slurry before pitching no matter the origin or method of propagation.

I don't think anyone here is discounting cell counting, it's just a different topic.

Are you having major issues with yeast behavior and repeatability? There's much you can achieve simply through careful observation and consistency in techniques without expensive lab gear. Those are skills you need to learn to be a great brewer and just having a microscope is not going to help with that.
 
Counting the yeast
- too many variables. Unless you have the right equipment, give up.
- you won't likely over pitch. Build up your starter (e.g., as below) to volumes you usually use and assume it works.

This guy is.
 
This guy is.

Hey butterpants, if you feel that my framing would discourage people from looking into and learning about the proper way to count, given that the large number of variables involved in freezing makes it hard to calculate off-hand, please suggest an amendment and I'll add it. E.g., if you have a recommended thread to get people started, etc.

:mug:


ps - every time I read your alias I think of the strong diacetyl taste on a young lager, which I somehow quite like :)
 
Most of me is deliciously buttery.

There are quite a few guides already written on cell counting.... videos too. I don't have time nor the desire to recreate them... most are done quite well. I don't think the issue is variables, it's lack of practice by the counter.

Cell counting via hemocytometer is a very well vetted technique. The math associated with it is simple and solid. You can buy a cheap AmScope for counting.
 
Gents, question to those who know for a fact: Would paraffin oil do for yeast immersion for freezing _and_ not for freezing, just for keeping in fridge?
The books only state some "mineral oil" but paraffin oil is the only one easily available to me.
 
Generally speaking mineral oil = paraffin oil. We are using glycerin for freezing protection, though.
 
Generally speaking mineral oil = paraffin oil. We are using glycerin for freezing protection, though.
Thanks, I'll search for glycerin. Shouldn't be too hard to locate I believe.
BTW, I know the source of your avatar ;)
 
ebay has lots of sellers
Yeah, where am I and where is ebay.
We eat from different plates and buy from different sources.
But I've got glycerin already. It was really easy to find, thanks everyone for directing me in a right way.
 
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