Different E-Brewery

Yakima 728
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aamcle said:
This is very similar to the system I planed, I never did build it I got shiny fever and built a Braumeister type. I still have the float switches for it, who knows I may build it yet as although the BM type is great it is inflexible.

May I ask how often the pump switches on and off? I was worried that it would damaged by repeated on/off cycling.

Great build :)

Aamcle
Click to expand...
Its cycles on and off about every 30 seconds or so depending on my drainage rate.
I use adjustable line lock and have my float sensor mounted to that so I can adjust the height of the sparge arm (line lock) and the float sensor....
 
Augiedoggy,

It's economics. Since I do 5 gallon batches and have done so for the last 25 year I only needed 3000W to boil the 6.5 gal. Then, I found on eBay a 30A 120V GFCI breaker for my panel for $20. To go the 240V route would have cost around $75 ($15 for a 30a 240v breaker for my panel and $60 for the spa panel). Saving me $55 bucks to spend on other goodies.
With the high density element I tasted no scorching in the first brew (a session pale ale, I didn't want to waste a lot of grain on a trial run) I ran on the system. As a secondary check on this, I wiped down the element with a damp cloth right after brewing and before cleaning. A sniff test of the cloth revealed no burn odor. So, i don't think there is a problem with scorching. The jury is out on a high gravity brew.
I still have to work out some system to regulate the level in the MLT during the sparge. Perhaps a float switch to turn the pump on and off would be the easiest. I will have to solve how to mount it in the MLT.

Nealm




Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
I thought It was you who stated it cost you $80 for a 30a 120v GFCI? If that wasn't you then how much was your 30a FCI because all the ones I've seen were about the same price as a 220v version.. all my 220 elements ranged in price from*$9- $22 for the 4500 ulwd ones.
Just a heads up, As far as the economics, you could have saved $150 of the $200 you spent with auber going with a my pin td4 pid and getting your sensors/switches on amazon or eBay.
nealm said:
Augiedoggy,

It's economics. Since I do 5 gallon batches and have done so for the last 25 year I only needed 3000W to boil the 6.5 gal. Then, I found on eBay a 30A 120V GFCI breaker for my panel for $20. To go the 240V route would have cost around $75 ($15 for a 30a 240v breaker for my panel and $60 for the spa panel). Saving me $55 bucks to spend on other goodies.
With the high density element I tasted no scorching in the first brew (a session pale ale, I didn't want to waste a lot of grain on a trial run) I ran on the system. As a secondary check on this, I wiped down the element with a damp cloth right after brewing and before cleaning. A sniff test of the cloth revealed no burn odor. So, i don't think there is a problem with scorching. The jury is out on a high gravity brew.
I still have to work out some system to regulate the level in the MLT during the sparge. Perhaps a float switch to turn the pump on and off would be the easiest. I will have to solve how to mount it in the MLT.

Nealm



Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
Click to expand...
 
As I stated above the 30A 120V GFCI breaker cost me $20 on eBay. I sourced nothing from Auber, except for a panel connector for for the rtd.
Looking at the picture of my control panel you will see Mypin PID. The guts of the panel, SSRs, heat sinks, switches and indicator lights were all sourced from eBay and Homer.
I kept myself on a tight budget.

NealM


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
nealm said:
As I stated above the 30A 120V GFCI breaker cost me $20 on eBay. I sourced nothing from Auber, except for a panel connector for for the rtd.
Looking at the picture of my control panel you will see Mypin PID. The guts of the panel, SSRs, heat sinks, switches and indicator lights were all sourced from eBay and Homer.
I kept myself on a tight budget.

NealM


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
Click to expand...
Ah I see the confusion... my question was actually directed at the OP..I hadnt read the entire thread when posting this.. I you see the comment I quoted it was also in regards to his setup. he mentioned spending $400 which was more than my 3 pid/3 pump/element 240v setup so I questioned it.
Good to know it can be done with an actual savings benefit though since you did sort of answer my question.

How did you mount the gfci near the control panel/brewery? (They arent as reliable all the way back in the main box which is why wiring code requires them to be close to the appliance like 10ft max from a hot tub and also why they are on the outlets in a kitchen and bathroom.)
 

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