Hop bursting...Too much?

I plan on making a double IPA soon. I am going to try out hop bursting. My question is how much is too much?

No 60 minute addition. the hops in the boil will go something like this:

1 oz. hops every minute for the last 10 minutes of the boil. (10 oz. total)

or

1 oz. of hops every minute for the last 15 minutes of the boil. (15 oz. total)

or

1 oz. of hops every minute for the last 12 minutes of the boil (12 oz. total)

Most likely no dry hopping. Won't need it right?

I havent decided on an amount yet but I won't go over a pound of hops. Probably use between 10-14 oz. of hops.

So, what can I expect with this amount of hops as late additions?


*EDIT* Also, I know there will be a TON of hop sludge in the brew kettle. I was thinking about soaking some cheese cloth in starsan solution and then just pouring the wort through the cheese cloth into the primary fermenter.

I would also like to add that I can currently only do 3 gallon boils and then top off in the fermenter to 5 gallons. Will this affect me any how using this amount of hops?

I did a Hop burst IPA last year and it came out with a ton of hop flavor. You really needed to like hops to drink this one.

Hop-Burst IPA
American IPA


Type: All Grain
Date: 10/8/2009
Batch Size: 10.00 gal
Brewer: Rob
Boil Size: 12.55 gal Asst Brewer: Zoe
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (15 Gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (10 Gal)
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
19.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) UK (3.0 SRM) Grain 64.41 %
4.00 lb Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 13.56 %
3.00 lb Wheat Malt, Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 10.17 %
2.00 lb Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 6.78 %
1.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 5.08 %
0.75 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (Dry Hop 6 days) Hops -
0.75 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (Dry Hop 6 days) Hops -
3.00 oz Magnum [10.50 %] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 46.8 IBU
0.75 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (Dry Hop 6 days) Hops -
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (30 min) Hops 2.4 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (30 min) Hops 3.0 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (25 min) Hops 2.2 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (25 min) Hops 1.3 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (25 min) Hops 2.7 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (20 min) Hops 1.9 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 1.1 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (20 min) Hops 2.4 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 0.9 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (15 min) Hops 1.9 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (15 min) Hops 1.6 IBU
0.25 oz Ahtanum [9.40 %] (10 min) Hops 1.2 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (10 min) Hops 0.7 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (10 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (5 min) Hops 0.6 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 0.4 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (5 min) Hops 0.8 IBU
0.50 oz Centennial [11.50 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [9.40 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
0.50 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
2.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
2.00 tsp Yeast Nutrient (Boil 6.0 days) Misc
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.074 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.070 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.017 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.56 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 7.84 %
Bitterness: 74.7 IBU Calories: 313 cal/pint
Est Color: 11.4 SRM Color: Color

I hit post before I was done typing, I hate when I do that. I used magnums for the bittering(FWH) and it had an nice firm but smooth bitterness. I think next time I brew this I might cut out the 30 and 25 min hops and start at 20 min.

eon said:

I plan on making a double IPA soon. I am going to try out hop bursting. My question is how much is too much?

No 60 minute addition. the hops in the boil will go something like this:

1 oz. hops every minute for the last 10 minutes of the boil. (10 oz. total)

or

1 oz. of hops every minute for the last 15 minutes of the boil. (15 oz. total)

or

1 oz. of hops every minute for the last 12 minutes of the boil (12 oz. total)

Most likely no dry hopping. Won't need it right?

I havent decided on an amount yet but I won't go over a pound of hops. Probably use between 10-14 oz. of hops.

So, what can I expect with this amount of hops as late additions?


*EDIT* Also, I know there will be a TON of hop sludge in the brew kettle. I was thinking about soaking some cheese cloth in starsan solution and then just pouring the wort through the cheese cloth into the primary fermenter.

I would also like to add that I can currently only do 3 gallon boils and then top off in the fermenter to 5 gallons. Will this affect me any how using this amount of hops?

Click to expand...

What I did was similar in my american wheat (just less given the lower IBU desired), I used about .5 ounce every 2 mins starting at 20 min. No bittering addition either. FYI the cheesecloth will probably just get gunged up. I have used a somewhat-fine mesh strainer that go out most of it. Only works if you have the right size one (huge). The time I used a grain/hop bag I had to do it in increments. Do not be afraid to SQUEEZE those hops, thats what I did.

I Hop bursted an Amercian Wheat with homegrown cascade and hallertau, as well as a bit of centenntial as I ran out of cascades. It is FANTASTIC. Seriously amazing. I reccomend you try that if you like hoppy american wheats.

I don't think your idea is possible. A IIPA should be a beer that is maximally bittered. Essentially, you can make any IIPA by putting 2oz of high alpha hops in at 60 min, and then just go crazy with the late additions.

Considering that you're doing a concentrated boil, and using zero bittering hops, I don't think it will be bitter enough.

However, I definitely think you can make a great pale ale or regular IPA using your method.

In my DIPAs I like to do a small 60 addition, then burst it at 20,15,10,5,0 minutes. I then hit it with dryhop. The dryhop is essential in a good DIPA / IPA. It has a different character than late addition hops and gives the best aroma.

Thanks wonderbread! I'll probably end up dry hopping. If I do end up using a bittering addition (I really don't want to) I'll probably only do like 3 or 4 IBUs at 60 minutes and then the hop bursting at 10 minutes or so.

I do agree I should probably have a bittering addition but I really want to try something new this time.

The only problem with this experiment is that it will be an expensive one! 10-15 oz. of hops won't be cheap!

If I want to do two batches. One with a small bittering addtion and one without. OUCH! my wallet is hurting!!

3-4 IBUs at 60 minutes? That's going to be like half a gram of hops. I reiterate that I think hop bursting is great for IPA or APA, but you need some bittering additions for a DIPA

I was figuring maybe .25 ounces @ 60 minutes. Well, This beer just might turn out to be a regular IPA. It doesnt have to be a IIPA. Hell if it turns out to be an APA then so be it!

I really want to make a beer with NO bittering additions and all the hops after 15-10 minutes of the boil.

If that makes an APA, then an APA it shall be!

The IBUs alone don't determine what type of beer it is. If you want to make an APA, then you probably shouldn't have an OG of 1.074.

For your first hop burst experiment, try something simple and quantifiable. Have you ever made an APA that you liked? Then make that same grain bill again, but change the hops to all at 15 minutes. That way you'll learn something new from it all. When you have a Double Diarrhea IPA with hops added all over the place, how will you really know what effect the hop burst had?

I would love to name a beer Double Diarrhea IPA. hahahahaha, I wish I came up with that

I don't want to make an APA. YOU said I my recipe looks more like an APA. When I was messing around with recipe ideas, I looked at the BJCP guidelines for IIPA. According to beer calculus my OG and ABV fit the guidelines. I wasnt sure about my IBUS because I cannot calculate Hop Bursting IBUs in Beer Calculus.

If this wasn't clear before let me say it again. Here is what I want to do:

Make a hoppy beer with huge hop flavor and aroma. I am thinking about using 11 oz. of hops. So, 1 oz. of hops every minute for the last 11 minutes of the boil. No other hops in the boil at all. Then I'll dry hop.

If I need to change my OG, I will. If this turns out to be an APA, IPA, IIPA, or YMCA, whatever!

No, I have never made an APA before. I think I'll look around at some recipes.

Honestly, I guess if I HAD to pick a style, I would say I want this to be an IPA. The problem with giving a beer a style is that then everyone gets on your case about the beer having to be a certain way. Originally, I wanted this to be a IIPA.

I would consider myself a beginner/intermediate brewer. I don't have all the knowledge in the world. I just heard about this hop bursting technique and it sounds awesome. Plus, I don't like my IPAs super, ultra, bitter so this sounded like a good place to start.

A lot of people are telling me that a IIPA HAS to be bitter. I disagree. most of my favorite IIPA's are not that bitter at all. They might "be" bitter from a scientific view but in reality they drink much smoother. I love beers like FFF's Dreadnaught, Hopjuice, Hop slam, etc...

These might be bitter in theory but I find them quite drinkable and delicious. I have had a couple of beers that I thought were awful. Too dry, crisp, thin, and bitter. Crooked tree IPA, Bear republic racer 5, and Bells two hearted ale. I didnt really care for any of them.

Sorry, I sort of went off on a tangent here. I'm not mad or anything, just explaining myself.

Well I definitely like that you're willing to try something new, and I also like that you're not terribly concerned with style. I feel that I brew the same way. I will say, however, style guidelines are great starting points for recipes for one simple reason: these types of beer have become recognized as a certain type of style because of some sort of harmony they create in all their ingredients.

In the case of the hoppy beers, the main things they balance are bitter/sweet, and to a lesser degree hoppy/malt. I'd like to think that in all of these styles, if you had one of those aspects that outshined the others, you would think, "This beer is out of balance." Likewise with the beer you're imagining, you need to figure out how to balance the beer.

So for example, I make a pretty typical pale ale with 40IBUs, 1.058, additions at 10min and 0min. If I wanted to change this recipe to a hop burst with all hops at 15 mins, brewing software tells me I need about 2.5oz of 8.7%AA hops to equal 40IBUs. However, I know from experience that this probably won't be bitter enough, so I would make the decision to arbitrarily increase the hops at least 30%. I'd probably end up putting 3-4oz of hops in the final beer, depending on how zealous I was feeling that day

So here's what I suggest for you: run the numbers to see how many IBUs you think you'll get from your additions. Then subtract maybe 10-25% from the number of IBUs. Consider this to be the actual bitterness in the beer. Then decide what gravity you'll need, what type of leftover sweetness, body, and malt flavor you'll need to balance out those IBUs. I bet you'll find the beer will probably need to be in the 1.050-1.065 range with no more than 10% specialty malts. Sounds like an IPA or extra-PA to me!

Thanks for the tips kanzimonson! I'll play around with a recipe soon!

Kanzimonson has been giving pretty solid advice. In my experience hop bursting like that hasn't been very useful. It's been a huge waste of hops/money. You should absolutely experiment the way you want to though. I think after doing this and gaining some more experience trying different things you'll realize that you can make a better beer with a bittering addition + smaller late additions for flavor and aroma.

So to answer your question, too much? Yes. IMO, yes it's too much. However, I'm like you and I have to find things out on my own lol. So no matter what people said I'd still do it my way and learn my lesson.

considering that your boil is 3 gallons I might suggest even more hops considering it's an IPA. You will be fine with what you have but it certainly isn't over the top if that's what you were worried about.

Thanks! So what do you think the outcome would be if I used no bittering additions and 12 oz. of hops (1 oz. every minute) in the last 12 minutes of the boil?

Do you think I would get tons of flavor and aroma but no bittering? Would this be a bad thing? Would it still taste or "feel" like a beer?

I do like to experiment but I would hate to waste all that money and hops on a beer that is going to suck or not even taste like beer.

Obviously it's hard to tell because I havent done it yet but any idea of the outcome?

I might still run with it. When the beer is finished and I think it tastes and smells awesome due to 12 oz. of hops but not bitter enough, well, then I know I need to add some bittering hops but keep the 12 oz. as late additions. You know what I'm saying?

Thanks Humann Brewing. You think I need MORE that 12-13oz. of hops?! Isn't that a ton of hops to begin with? I wish I knew how to calculate what my IBUs are gonna be if I do
1 oz. every minute for the last 12 minutes of the boil.

eon said:

Thanks Humann Brewing. You think I need MORE that 12-13oz. of hops?! Isn't that a ton of hops to begin with? I wish I knew how to calculate what my IBUs are gonna be if I do
1 oz. every minute for the last 12 minutes of the boil.

Click to expand...

what is your hop schedule and your malt bill? I can crunch the numbers

I was thinking maybe:

6lbs. light or Extra light DME
1lbs. Crystal 40L

(Apollo Hops 18% AA)

1 oz. apollo @ 13 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 12 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 11 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 10 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 9 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 8 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 7 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 6 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 5 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 4 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 3 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 2 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 1 minute

*EDIT* I'm going to dry hop with 2 oz. of apollo in the secondary for 7 days.

If you want to make it a double IPA then add a good size bittering addition. If you are set on doing this hop schedule with no bittering addition then lower O.G. down to 1.05-1.06 level.

Also put at least a 2 oz dry hop in this beer would be my recommendation. I wouldn't make a IIPA or pale ale (that is focused on hops anyway) with out a good size dry hop. It really adds another dimension of hoppyness.

Thanks yeast! I'll definitely do a dry hop. Thanks for the tip!

I did something similar to this once and it didn't turn out as planned. Recipe follows:

Malt Bill:
11lb (92%) Rahr 2-row
1lb (8%) Crystal 40L

Hop Bill
1oz Simcoe (13% AA) @ 15min
1oz Amarillo (8.5% AA) @ 15 min
1oz Citra (12% AA) @ 15 min
1oz Centennial (10% AA) @ 15 min

Yeast: Safale US-05

OG: 1.064
FG: 1.015
SRM: 8
IBU: 70
ABV: 6.4%

Even though the IBUs calculated out to 70, my palate said it was probably 30-35. I entered it into a BJCP comp just to get some blind feedback and both judges nailed it, told me to add more bittering hops since it seemed that I backloaded it. I'm glad that I did it for sure, but not something I'd do again.

eon said:

Thanks wonderbread! I'll probably end up dry hopping. If I do end up using a bittering addition (I really don't want to) I'll probably only do like 3 or 4 IBUs at 60 minutes and then the hop bursting at 10 minutes or so.

I do agree I should probably have a bittering addition but I really want to try something new this time.

The only problem with this experiment is that it will be an expensive one! 10-15 oz. of hops won't be cheap!

If I want to do two batches. One with a small bittering addtion and one without. OUCH! my wallet is hurting!!

Click to expand...

Hopsdirect is your friend

whatsleftofyou said:

Even though the IBUs calculated out to 70, my palate said it was probably 30-35. I entered it into a BJCP comp just to get some blind feedback and both judges nailed it, told me to add more bittering hops since it seemed that I backloaded it. I'm glad that I did it for sure, but not something I'd do again.

Click to expand...

Awesome, I'm glad somebody chimed in with this. Can you give us some more description about your beer? Was the problem with too much sweetness? Or just a lack of that bitter pop? How did you feel about the hop flavor and aroma?

P.S. Good times listening to Homebrewed Chef last night (I'm BottledAnger at the BN)

I'm no expert but I just want to add that "whatsleftofyou" only used 4 oz. of hops in the entire beer and put them all in @ 15 minutes.

My beer will have 15 oz. of hops total. 1 oz. every minute for the last 13 minutes of the boil and 2 oz. for dry hopping.

If I end up with 30-35 IBUs perceived or otherwise...something is wrong.

eon said:

I was thinking maybe:

6lbs. light or Extra light DME
1lbs. Crystal 40L

(Apollo Hops 18% AA)

1 oz. apollo @ 13 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 12 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 11 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 10 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 9 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 8 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 7 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 6 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 5 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 4 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 3 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 2 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 1 minute

*EDIT* I'm going to dry hop with 2 oz. of apollo in the secondary for 7 days.

Click to expand...

this is a 5G batch right? Your gravity is gonna be in the 1040s I believe with only 6lbs of extract and appollo is a super high alpha hop so I imagine well hold on let me plug it in

I get a OG of 1.052 with 5G even and ibus of 227 It's doable but I am not sure you will want to drink it. You could probably just do the last 8 minutes and end up in the 90 IBU range

Thanks humann. Yes, 3 gallon boil and then top off in fermenter to make 5 gallons.

227 ibus?! This is why I wanted it to be a higher OG!

Where are you coming up with an OG of 1040s? Beer Calculus is giving me an estimated OG of 1.061 for 6 pounds of DME and 1 lbs. of Crystal 40L

I have heard of people doing pliny the elder clones or other IIPAs and using over 200 ibus of hops. Are you saying this would taste awful or what?

I kind of really have my heart set on this hop schedule. Is there anyway to "balance it out?"

I wanted to make this a IIPA but then people on this thread were telling me not to do it.

But seeing as you are calculating 227 ibus, shouldnt that be the direction I move in?

This is confusing.

Lastly, which program are you using to plug the numbers in. I can only use beer calculus right now since I'm using a mac computer. I hate beer calculus. All the numbers NEVER seem accurate. It is very frustrating when you are trying to formulate recipes.

Thanks again for your help. I would appreciate any additional help/tips to get this thing to life. As I have said before, I am pretty much set in stone on this hop schedule. If I do it another way that would defeat the entire purpose.

eon said:

Thanks humann. Yes, 3 gallon boil and then top off in fermenter to make 5 gallons.

227 ibus?! This is why I wanted it to be a higher OG!

Where are you coming up with an OG of 1040s? Beer Calculus is giving me an estimated OG of 1.061 for 6 pounds of DME and 1 lbs. of Crystal 40L

I have heard of people doing pliny the elder clones or other IIPAs and using over 200 ibus of hops. Are you saying this would taste awful or what?

I kind of really have my heart set on this hop schedule. Is there anyway to "balance it out?"

I wanted to make this a IIPA but then people on this thread were telling me not to do it.

But seeing as you are calculating 227 ibus, shouldnt that be the direction I move in?

This is confusing.

Lastly, which program are you using to plug the numbers in. I can only use beer calculus right now since I'm using a mac computer. I hate beer calculus. All the numbers NEVER seem accurate. It is very frustrating when you are trying to formulate recipes.

Thanks again for your help. I would appreciate any additional help/tips to get this thing to life. As I have said before, I am pretty much set in stone on this hop schedule. If I do it another way that would defeat the entire purpose.

Click to expand...

this is coming from beersmith, 6lbs of DME in 5G gives 1.052 I didn't add any for the crystal as I am not sure you would get more than a couple extra points from them as you are just steeping them right?

Don't worry about the high number of IBUs, since you are putting these in at the end there will not be much time for the isoemersion to take place that gives the bitterness, in this case that number is sort of a illusion, it won't taste like that without a 60 minute addition.

If your really going for a IIPA, you are going to need maybe 1.5-2lbs more of extract and do you possibly have any other hops or are you trying to see what these taste like? I personally have never used apollo so I am not even sure how they are.

If you look at whatsleft's post, you'll see that there was a huge difference between what his calculations predicted and what he perceived his bitterness to be. Yours will definitely do the same thing, but you have a couple other things going against you:

-the higher the IBUs, the less soluble they are in solution
-with such a short boil time, you'll have even less of a chance for the acids to isomerize, and for them to become soluble

I know you're going to be tempted to say "whatsleft got half of what his calculations predicted, therefore I should get at least half of mine." But I just don't think it will work out that way. I would be really really impressed if this beer tasted like it had more than 60 IBUs.

Just brew the thing already and stop debating it. One thing I've learned about HBT is you can get a million different opinions about any subject, but eventually you just have to jump in.

I guess I'm just really confused with what I want! haha!

you said "I wouldnt really want to drink it."

What did you mean by that?

eon said:

I guess I'm just really confused with what I want! haha!

you said "I wouldnt really want to drink it."

What did you mean by that?

Click to expand...

I guess I don't know what kinda beer you like but I can't think of any commercial examples except maybe this

Yakima Craft Brewing Co.'s IPA features a substantial, well-balanced taste with an emphasis on the hop.

BeerAdvocate Magazine rates this beer an A+.
ABV: 6.33%
Est. IBU: 102.9
OG (Plato): 1.060 (14.74)
FG (Plato): 1.012 (3.07)
Est. SRM: 8.5

Click to expand...

1.060 OG and over 100 IBUs, it is a bitter beers, a session IIPA if you will which is where yours would be except yours is late hopped and I am guess that this one is hopped all around.

Thanks Kanzi. I trust your opinion. I havent been brewing that long so I may have to learn the hard way! Hopefully, if I spend all this money on 15 oz. of hops I'll get something that tastes more like 60ibu.

but to be totally honest with you I am not really going for bitterness. I am going for maximum hop FLAVOR and AROMA.

so maybe when all is said in done, I'll end up with an extra pale ale as you mention earlier.

I'm not really sure what this beer would be called.

The final version of my recipe so far looks like this:

6 lbs. Light DME
8 oz. Crystal 40L

1 oz. apollo @ 13 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 12 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 11 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 10 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 9 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 8 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 7 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 6 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 5 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 4 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 3 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 2 minutes
1 oz. apollo @ 1 minute

2 oz. apollo DRY HOP

I guess I'll have yo just jump right in and find out. I'm totally fine with experimenting, I just don't want a beer that ends up having to be dumped.

If you looking for a little thinner body since your using extract, you would keep your 6lbs of DME and toss in 1lb of dextrose or sugar to give it more fermentable sugars to help the gravity to get down.

"1.060 OG and over 100 IBUs, it is a bitter beers, a session IIPA if you will which is where yours would be except yours is late hopped and I am guess that this one is hopped all around."

Sounds good to me. If we just said this in the first place I could have gotten on with it!

If my beer turns out like that description, I'll be a happy man!

eon said:

"1.060 OG and over 100 IBUs, it is a bitter beers, a session IIPA if you will which is where yours would be except yours is late hopped and I am guess that this one is hopped all around."

Sounds good to me. If we just said this in the first place I could have gotten on with it!

If my beer turns out like that description, I'll be a happy man!

Click to expand...

yes, so I would say, add a LB of sugar at the end of the boil, what AA are your hops?

In the first page of this thread someone said you need to brew something quantifiable.

This is what I would do. Brew TWO SMASHES or as close to a SMASH as you can.

So lets say you are going to run with the recipe above,

LDME
Crystal 40
Appollo at whatever.

I think you need to pull say 6 bottles to the side, then rebrew this beer as follows:
LDME
Crystal 40
Appollo at 60, 30, 15. A generic/common hop addition.

This is your 'plane/normal' beer compared to your hop burst beer. Now you two fist it, go get your original 6 pack, and switch back and forth from your normal beer to your hop burst beer.

I think without a 'normal' version of the beer to compare your hop burst version, you won't be able to fully grasp what the hop burst did to it.

If you love it, it's easy- that works.
But if you hate it, do you decide that hop bursting sucks?
If you brew the normal version and dislike that one, then the recipe sucks- not necessarily the hop burst.
Or it may be that hop bursting doesn't compliment that hop.
Or maybe you over burst it and something in between might be better?
There are a lot of factors to consider and I think the only way to consider those factors is if you have that "quantifiable measure". Your 'standard' vs. "Experiment".

Something to consider when you build your wild brew.

Not related to my last post, I have never tried to hop burst.

If I want to increase hop flavor and aroma I

A)Use a first wort addition
B)Dry hop gyle
C)Dry hop wort

I consider my beers aromatic, flavorful, and brewed with 3oz to 5 oz of hops rather than 15oz. Another thing to consider.

Thanks retrofit! I'll do it.

a couple of questions:

Is this an ok base for both recipes?

6 lbs. light DME
1 lbs. crystal 40

BEER #1
----------------
base of 6# dme and 1# C40 with the hop schedule of
1 oz. of apollo for every minute of the last 13 minutes of the boil. Then dry hop with 2 oz. of apollo.

BEER #2
----------------
base of 6# dme and 1# of C40.

How many oz. of hops at 60, 30, 15? 1 oz.?

so that would be a total of 3 oz. in the boil and then 2 oz. dry hop.

I skimmed this entire post and just want to jump in with a few comments.

First you may want to add a little corn sugar to lighten the body as Humann suggested.

Second, keep in mind this is going to suck up a lot of wort and you have to make adjustments for that. Have you ever seen what 12 OZ of hops looks like at the bottom of a kettle-its a mess. Even the Pliny the Elder clone is based on a large final voulume to make up for wort lost to hops.

Anyway, good luck and let us know how it turns out.

FYI-I make a house IPA that has 7oz of hops from 10min to knockout then is dry-hopped with 3oz and a second dryhop of 1oz. Great beer!