Control panel question

I am making a 110V box with a PID, SSR and heat sink. The bos is done and the two compnents have been installed.

I want to wire three switches:

One for the pump
One to energize the system
One to interrupt the voltage going to heating element from the SSR, but keep the PID and temp reading energized

I have it all planned out and talked to the guy at Auberins and he gave me his blessing

Anyway, I have seen several panels with rocker switches and indicator lights that really make a panel look badass in my opinion. Can anyone give me some feedback or direction on where to find this type of setup please?

Thank you for your time
Joe

Take a look at sawdustguy's rig -- I think he has the sweetest box.
I believe he sourced the electronics at
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Electrical-Replacement-Parts__W0QQ_armrsZ1

He has a parts list in one of his posts. I really like the concept of a master power switch with separate switches to mechanically interrupt the power to the individual elements. This is a nice failsafe, and being able to visually check the position of a switch is nuts easy. Just my 2 cents
jason

forgot - he listed this as the toggle switch and cover supplier

http://shop.ebay.com/rdodge2/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

jason

jwright said:

Take a look at sawdustguy's rig -- I think he has the sweetest box.

Click to expand...

LOL...

........

addendum,

In a manly sorta way of course.



jason

Here is a picture of my control box and a schematic. I have switches to turn the pumps on and off, a master power switch, a switch that controls a solenoid valve that will kill the gas going to the stand, a switch that will shut down the RIMS heater and a switch that will turn the gas and control circuitry for the automated HLT. I use standard 20 amp toggle switches and the covers can be found here: Ebay Aircraft Toggle Switch Covers. I hope it helps. All the images below are in my gallery.

PS....I hope you guys were talking about my control box and not my wife...

Awesome.

I was wondering where you purchased the switches with the safety covers?

Sawdustguy said:

Click to expand...

I guess I missed your original build thread (or it disappeared from my memory), but looks like you are using 24VAC to control relays for everything?

bakins said:

I guess I missed your original build thread (or it disappeared from my memory), but looks like you are using 24VAC to control relays for everything?

Click to expand...

No, just the Honeywell Intermittent Pilot Gas Valve. I use it to control the temperature the HLT temperature with a PID. That is the only reason I have a 24 volt transformer. See my setup below.

Sawdustguy said:

No, just the Honeywell Intermittent Pilot Gas Valve. I use it to control the temperature the HLT temperature with a PID. That is the only reason I have a 24 volt transformer. See my setup below.

Click to expand...

Okay. Makes sense. I followed the wires in the diagram more closely this time

Hello sawdustguy????

Any chance you can tell me where you bought your switches please?

ILOVEBEER said:

Hello sawdustguy????

Any chance you can tell me where you bought your switches please?

Click to expand...

Read post #2 of this thread.

I got my switches from grainger. I am still working on my whole system and haven't posted the build yet... but standby!

one thing to consider is getting three way (on-off-on) switches (also called single pole double throw (STDT).

that way you can route one side through the PID and one side is a force on. For example, normally you have your pump set up to run automatically for your rims heater. but say you want to use your pump for something else. Without the other side of the switch, you would have to trick the PID to make the pump kick on.

This is called an HOA (hand - off - auto) switch