Round Vs. Square Cooler for Mash Tun

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blefferd

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are there any advantages over a round cooler vs. a square cooler (well rectangle) for a mash tun? from what i have observed you can make a round one fairly easy with minimum tools, and parts. ie, ball valve, small section of pipe, a couple fittings some washers, jam nuts, hose clamps, a plug, braided SS hose, and a cooler.
for the rectangle one all ive seen are the slotted PVC or Copper tubing. for the drainage system. but you can get rectangle coolers on the cheap for a 10 gallon version compared to a round 10 gallon water cooler.

am i thinking way to much into my mash tun or should i just go ahead and buck up and make whats best for me? (ive been kicking back and forth between the square and round ive seen the round one on here with the SS braid for the filter but i like the idea of the slotted pipe with either copper or CPVC

another question, if you go with copper tube do you have to solder it or can you just fit it toghter and take apart as needed for cleaning etc..???
 
ferd-

Sqr/ rect is cheaper and much easier to find. As long as you're batch sparging about anything will do for a false bottom. Don't have to solder copper (or PVC) manifold- press fit is fine. SS braid is often used, either as a ring or just a straight piece. It's about fluid dymanics (see J. Palmer's "How to Brew"). ALWAYS make what's best for you! DO A SEARCH here for discussions and pics.

Sully
 
I think the round cooler is generally considered preferable if you plan on fly sparging, although some people seem to like the square "ice cube" coolers for this as well. For fly sparging, these coolers allow for greater grain bed depth, which helps to create a better filter. If you plan on batch sparging, rectangular coolers are certainly cheaper and they seem to get the job done quite well.

As far as building a copper manifold, you don't necessarily need to sweat the fittings. As long as there is enough friction to keep it together while you're stirring, you're pretty much good to go. Other options are the SS braid (which works great) and the CPVC maniflold, which also works well in my experience. Both work fine and carry less material cost than a copper manifold.
 
im not worried about ss braid, i can get it from work for free and its aircraft grade (not sure if there is a diffrence besides i will have to give it a very good sanitazation) im looking at a copper tubing style some what like this


C==========*
/
C==========T=BV
/
C==========*

C=Cap
*= 90 fitting
/=straight pipe
T=T-Fitting
BV= Ball Valve

with out soldering it would be super cheap (no torch to buy) and easy to clean drop in tank with star san or keep all parts in bucket with star san what do you all think about this? copper tubing would be slotted with either dremel or hacksaw
 
blefferd said:
im not worried about ss braid, i can get it from work for free and its aircraft grade (not sure if there is a diffrence besides i will have to give it a very good sanitazation) im looking at a copper tubing style some what like this


C==========*
/
C==========T=BV
/
C==========*

C=Cap
*= 90 fitting
/=straight pipe
T=T-Fitting
BV= Ball Valve

with out soldering it would be super cheap (no torch to buy) and easy to clean drop in tank with star san or keep all parts in bucket with star san what do you all think about this? copper tubing would be slotted with either dremel or hacksaw
Click to expand...

That looks pretty reasonable. Check out John Palmer's website (http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html) for some thoughts on proper manifold geometry for your mash tun. Good luck and happy brewing! :ban:
 
im not worried about ss braid, i can get it from work for free and its aircraft grade (not sure if there is a diffrence besides i will have to give it a very good sanitazation) im looking at a copper tubing style some what like this.
Click to expand...

Sanitation is really not an issue at this point because you will be boiling for 60-90 minutes.
 
C
T==========*
/ /
T==========T=BV
/ /
T==========*
C
C=Cap
*= 90 fitting
/=straight pipe
T=T-Fitting
BV= Ball Valve

This is what I've been using, but I had made it like you designed it first. the problem was that the manifold sagged at the far end. I forget who posted it before but they added the t's and the caps at the far corners. the cap's push ageist the far walls to support the manifold so it is level. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I like things to be level. :rockin:
 
thats a good idea what size tubing should i use? 1/2" or 3/8ths? im going to stop by the hardware store today i might pick some up
 
blefferd said:
im not worried about ss braid, i can get it from work for free and its aircraft grade (not sure if there is a diffrence besides i will have to give it a very good sanitazation)
Click to expand...

I tried to use an aircraft braided hydraulic line (it was new) but I could not get the braid off. They are built so they will not separate. Go figure huh? Anyway I ended up buying a SS braided toilet water supply line for $5. I then used SS safety wire that I coiled up around a pencil and put that in the SS braid. Works like a champ.
 
Bsquared said:
C
T==========*
/ /
T==========T=BV
/ /
T==========*
C
C=Cap
*= 90 fitting
/=straight pipe
T=T-Fitting
BV= Ball Valve

This is what I've been using, but I had made it like you designed it first. the problem was that the manifold sagged at the far end. I forget who posted it before but they added the t's and the caps at the far corners. the cap's push ageist the far walls to support the manifold so it is level. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I like things to be level. :rockin:
Click to expand...
I just built mine:

Code: 
*==========*
/          /
T==========T
/          T=BV
T==========T
/          /
*==========*

I used a 3/32" drill bit and drilled a crap load of holes. I have not used it yet but will be brewing my first AG THIS weekend!!:rockin:
Do I need to "pickle" the copper with a water/white vinager mixture? Or can I just clean it and go??

Like I said I have not used it yet so I can keep everybody posted on how it turns out. Oh it in a 10 gal rect cooler by the way.
 
If you used sweat any thin together or are using any thing brass, it would be advisable to run hot white Vinager and hydrogen peroxide solution through the manifold a couple of times. once the solution starts turning green, rinse and repeat with some fresh solution. that will remove most if not all the residual lead left over from the foundry process.

Good stuff!
 
Bsquared said:
If you used sweat any thin together or are using any thing brass, it would be advisable to run hot white Vinager and hydrogen peroxide solution through the manifold a couple of times. once the solution starts turning green, rinse and repeat with some fresh solution. that will remove most if not all the residual lead left over from the foundry process.

Good stuff!
Click to expand...
I just soldered the elbows and T's together, the pipes in the middle are not permanently attached so that I could clean it. There is no brass just copper. Do I still need to pickle it?
 
I use a round 5 gallon cooler, and it works well for my purposes. I won the cooler in a raffle and modded it, though; the previous owner used it for fly sparging with a sparge arm. I do batch sparging myself so I had no need for the sparging arm. It came with an ill-fitting false bottom and a halfassed bulkhead job, I replaced it all with a SS braid and a redone bulkead with a brass ball valve.
 
i really like the simplisity of the SS Braid and once again i flaked out at the hardware store on wither to buy tubing or go with SS braid! lol. i might just modifiy it and go with square cooler with a long piece of SS braid wrapped in a figure 8 or something to that sort.

another question i have for a manifold is going from copper to brass how do you fit them toghter? and is it ok to use two diffrent types of metal, i dont think the two would corrode each other but you never know!. also is it ok to use galvanized steel for the pipe that goes threw the cooler wall or should i use brass.another corrosion caution.
 
blefferd said:
i really like the simplisity of the SS Braid and once again i flaked out at the hardware store on wither to buy tubing or go with SS braid! lol. i might just modifiy it and go with square cooler with a long piece of SS braid wrapped in a figure 8 or something to that sort.

another question i have for a manifold is going from copper to brass how do you fit them toghter? and is it ok to use two diffrent types of metal, i dont think the two would corrode each other but you never know!. also is it ok to use galvanized steel for the pipe that goes threw the cooler wall or should i use brass.another corrosion caution.
Click to expand...
I've been told that galvanized is bad. I would go with either copper/brass/ss.
 
it just doesnt look as clean as the brass pipping and the fittings/pipes they had at the hardware store where rusted on the threads!
 

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