Keg Force Carbing Methods Illustrated

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Yeah, I can barely hear (too much artillery/mortars/rockets blowing up around me for a while) - but I pulled the keg out after another no-carbonation-worth-mentioning pull from the tap and.... sure enough faint hiss from the pressure release dealio. Checked the empty keg - it does the same thing. It takes a real long time for all the pressure to leak down, but it's definitely leaking, and that definitely isn't good for carbonation.

Take apart the SRV (pressure relief), clean it and it's housing, and put some vaseline on the O-ring.

If it does not work, check for pitting in the housing - if none, get some new O-rings.
 
still under 30 lbs. I give it a good shake every hour or so. I'll try another glass tomorrow to see how it's doing :) I got a case of sierra nevada pale ale so that should hold me at least until tomorrow afternoon.
 
Ok, still trying to figure this out. I kept it under 30 lbs and shook and rolled it untill it wouldn't take any more gas. Then released the pressure and put it on 11 lbs. Today all I'm getting is foam so I've released the pressure a couple times and put it back on 11 lbs for a while. I feel like a retard trying to figure this out. lol. I just wanna drink my beer!
 
Ok, still trying to figure this out. I kept it under 30 lbs and shook and rolled it untill it wouldn't take any more gas. Then released the pressure and put it on 11 lbs. Today all I'm getting is foam so I've released the pressure a couple times and put it back on 11 lbs for a while. I feel like a retard trying to figure this out. lol. I just wanna drink my beer!

Bars balance by using one pressure, but different lengths of tubing. The longer the tubing, the higher pressure you can have to get the correct dispensing pressure.

If you're using a 1' hose with a plastic tap, 11 psi is way too much. Try around 3 psi.

I thought I saw articles about balancing in here - try doing a search - I think they have tables saying pressure, tubing length, and ID (which is also important)
 
yeah, I found that chart. It's saying about 8 lbs. Which still gives me a massive amount of foam. I think the problem is being caused by the fluctuating temperature out on my balcony. during the day it's 60f outside and the fridge will stay pretty consistently around 40f. But at night it's dropping into the 30's and the fridge is down to about 32 right now. Which is quite a difference in serving pressure.

I'm just hoping I don't have to move my beer fridge indoors :( as there isn't much room.
 
I'm kind of having a similar problem. I finally got my kegs to stop leaking gas, force carbed w/ the whole shake it method (even though it's clearly not ideal). Pressure has stabilized at 12psi, which happens to be the pressure one of those tables says I should use to force carb over a long period of time. I'm assuming that means I'm at the 2.2vol of CO2?

Anyway, the beer is finally super clear (there was some crud in the first several glasses) and the taste is great - but I get about 1/3rd a glass of beer and 2/3rds foam. This, clearly, is a problem. I'm not too sure how to solve that. Suggestions?

--

Update, I dropped my temp down to 35°F and my pressure down to 7psi (per this chart). Before I did this I noticed gas space in my beer lines. Another pour resulted in less foam, but I'm still having the same problem. Any carbonation I do have is escaping the beer and turning immediately to foam. Almost no carbonation remains in solution, and I have giant head with flat beer. I'm also still seeing bubbles come out of solution inside the beer lines. I have no idea what to do, but wasting an entire keg of beer just ain't on the menu.

35°F beer, 525SS faucets, 6' 3/16ID line, 7psi regulator pressure = flat beer, with half a glass of foam (after several pours) - and bubbles in the lines.
 
I quickly scanned through here and only saw one post with my issue, and didn't see any answere for the question.
I am going to have the kegs at room temperature, mid to upper 60's, running through an old coke fountain machine with cooling coils. The charts that I see only go to 60F, so if I do a rough extrapulation, the serving pressure would be about 30psi. Wouldn't the cooling after the keg cause a change in the carb levels.
I got the system off someone else that brewed, and the settings on a dual regulator system were 30psi, for force carbing or seating, on one regulator, but the second regulator was not set. This one runs through a manifold to the kegs.
Any thoughts on this, what should I set the second regulator at for serving.
 
I don't know if the post cooling would cause that much carbonation change because there is no external source of CO2 at that point. Do you have a guess at what the inside diameter and length of the cooling coil is?
 
I would put a rough guess that the beer would travel through about 50 to 70 feet of stainless tube.

I saw on another website that at 50 feet of cooling, they serving pressure would be up at the 25 psi range, and foam control would be done right at the tap with a compensator. I guess I will have to hook it up and try, I just wanted to get in a range.
 
So based on what I'm reading, on my kegerator (3-tap) in order to alleviate the need for regulators on each line, I could have dedicated taps for 3 different styles of beer and just use different line lengths with the same PSI? This could save me a lot of money since I prefer stouts to my wife's lighter/fruitier ales.
 
The line length doesn't control how much carbonation you get. It's sort of the other way around. You start with what temp you want to run your fridge at. Some people like ice cold beer and others do it the English way (50+ degrees). Based on the temp, you look at the carb charts and determine what PSI you need to run for that level of carbonation.

Based on your psi, you now need a line length that will deliver the beer from keg to faucet without shotgunning it into the glass. Too short and it's a glass of foam. Too long and.....well, it just takes a little longer to pour and you may not get the two-finger head you wanted unless you hold the glass 2 feet below the faucet.
 
The line length doesn't control how much carbonation you get. It's sort of the other way around. You start with what temp you want to run your fridge at. Some people like ice cold beer and others do it the English way (50+ degrees). Based on the temp, you look at the carb charts and determine what PSI you need to run for that level of carbonation.

Based on your psi, you now need a line length that will deliver the beer from keg to faucet without shotgunning it into the glass. Too short and it's a glass of foam. Too long and.....well, it just takes a little longer to pour and you may not get the two-finger head you wanted unless you hold the glass 2 feet below the faucet.

Perfect answer.
 
I`ve been putting my kegs in the fridge and immediately put on 30 psi for 30 hours and it gets me about halfway carbed....good enough to drink though, then set it to serving pressure, but my last keg I set it to 30 psi (no shaking) in the fridge for 48 hours, and this got me almost fully carbed, but not over carbed.Turned it down to serving pressure and bled off excess and beer was perfect in less than a week.I`m going to try this again on the keg I just filled to see if I can get consistent results with 30 psi for 48 hours...btw my fridge temp was at 38f.Does anyone have any personal data with force carbing as far as time / pressure / and temperature without shaking?It would be nice to find out where the threshold is.I suppose I could either increase the pressure little by little 1 keg at a time to find out at what point overcarbing starts, then just dial it back a little.:mug:
 
I`ve been putting my kegs in the fridge and immediately put on 30 psi for 30 hours and it gets me about halfway carbed....good enough to drink though, then set it to serving pressure, but my last keg I set it to 30 psi (no shaking) in the fridge for 48 hours, and this got me almost fully carbed, but not over carbed.Turned it down to serving pressure and bled off excess and beer was perfect in less than a week.I`m going to try this again on the keg I just filled to see if I can get consistent results with 30 psi for 48 hours...btw my fridge temp was at 38f.Does anyone have any personal data with force carbing as far as time / pressure / and temperature without shaking?It would be nice to find out where the threshold is.I suppose I could either increase the pressure little by little 1 keg at a time to find out at what point overcarbing starts, then just dial it back a little.:mug:

48 hours at 30 psi at around 35 F ?
I may try that
I do 24 hours, and have full carbonation 5 or so days later.
 
SRV went to leaking again. The beer tastes like acid (too many carbonated to flat cycles???) now. Back to bottling until this whole keg thing makes sense.
 
I steered clear of utilizing my new kegerator until I get a chance to really test things out. Didn't want to lose a batch due to impatience. I decided to bottle this one, and continue to put my system through its paces.

I think I'm going to try the 30lbs of pressure for 24-48 hrs, then purge and adjust to serving psi for a week or so method.

I appreciate everyone's input on this thread. It's really going a long way to making sure I completely understand this part of my new hobby.
 
I steered clear of utilizing my new kegerator until I get a chance to really test things out. Didn't want to lose a batch due to impatience. I decided to bottle this one, and continue to put my system through its paces.

I think I'm going to try the 30lbs of pressure for 24-48 hrs, then purge and adjust to serving psi for a week or so method.

I appreciate everyone's input on this thread. It's really going a long way to making sure I completely understand this part of my new hobby.

After the 24-48 hours at 30 psi, adjust to maintenance pressure, not serving pressure (unless you have a balanced system)
 
Wow, I am even more confused than when I started.

I followed the Kegging Overview from Northern Brewer, Set my PSI at 10 and just forgot about it, (This was easy cause I didn't have a tap) got may tap today, one keg has been on for over a week and the other about 4 days, both are FLAT and no head. One is a stout and the other is a Dutch Lager

Should I crank the C02 to 30PSI for a couple days? then release and bring back down to 10? I was so hoping to enjoy a beer tonight. My liquid lines are about 4-6 ft, whatever came with the tap, my temp is at 40.

Thanks gurus
 
What I got out of this thread in the most basic of terms:
Chill Keg (38-42 degrees)
Place at 30psi for 24 hours
Purge and Reset to 10-12psi
Wait 5 days + and Serve!
 
I am quite new to this, and in fact this is my first post, but here is my 24 hour method.

I purge the keg a few times, set the seals with a quick blast at 30psi, then turn the regulator down to whatever pressure I intend to serve at, usually 12 psi, and chill the keg for 12-24 hours. When the beer is cold I roll the keg vigorously on its side until I hear the CO2 stop flowing, and then for a good minute or two more. I do not increase the CO2 pressure while rolling the keg, so it doesn’t over carbonate the beer.

And that pretty much does it. Once the keg has settled down for a few hours, I find it pours very drinkable, nicely carbonated beer. For that matter, I bet you could dispense into a pitcher and pour serviceable beer from that into your mug within 5 minutes of rolling the keg. This might mean I’m impatient, but I find patience is easier with a fresh pint of beer in my hand.
 
What I got out of this thread in the most basic of terms:
Chill Keg (38-42 degrees)
Place at 30psi for 24 hours
Purge and Reset to 10-12psi
Wait 5 days + and Serve!

5 days minimum .... but yes. Also, as a start, use six feet of 3/16 ID beer line.
 
So why exactly are we waiting the 5 days? Is it for improved flavour or balancing the carbonation? please tell me is it for the flavour, my brew tasted horrible after carbing it a few days ago.
I am hoping it will be drinkable in a few more days.
 
The 5 days is because the initial boosted pressure thing doesn't really get it carbed. We don't try to bring the boost carb method directly to our desired carb level because it is very easy to overcarb. The idea is to get it 3/4 of the way there quickly, then let equilibrium pressure finish the job in a week.

Of course, a period of cold conditioning is only going to make the beer better, especially if it's still clearing but the real reason I wait is to let the initial carbonic acid dissipate which is peaked right after boost carbing.
 
Ok, I did things a little backwards, I initially carbed the tanks at 10-11 PSI, after a day or two, nothing, so I boosted it up to 30 PSI for 24 hours, now it is all foam. Is it over carbed? If I leave it another week or two will it balance out? I reduced the pressure to about 6 PSI as it does pour pretty quickly.

Now my Irish Stout, after the foam subsides, tastes pretty good, but my Dutch Lager tastes awful. It was pretty good on kegging day, mind you flat and warm, but now it has an off taste and is very cloudy. Now it has only been 2 days since I upped and reduced the pressure. AND the Dutch Lager had both a lager yeast and an ale yeast as the lager yeast didn't seem to take so 24 hours later I tossed in an ale yeast. Now on Kegging day it was very clear and tasty, any ideas? I am hoping time will fix it but maybe it is infected.
 
Ok, Ive read this twice on and a couple other sites, if someone could tell this way will work or wont that'd be great. First the beer has been fermenting for 3 weeks, so I was going to hit with a burst carb. But these are the steps I was going to do.

-Fill keg, hook air up to the in side (leave the exit line capped?) and hit it with 30psi for 36hrs in the frig at about 40*.
-After 36hrs, unhook, bleed all pressure, shake it for about 10-20secs.
-Hook up all lines set to 10psi, and enjoy.

Does that sound right? Also do you cool the beer in the fridge first and then once is cool hit it w/ CO2 or right as you fill the keg hit w/ CO2 while its cooling?
 
The elevated pressure applied while the beer is on its way cooling down is unpredictable at best because we don't know how long it will take to cool. It will absorb more CO2 while it's colder.

I was typing up advice on how I would rush the carbonation along but decided to stop myself. I really don't want to advise anyone to rush things. Even if someone tells you the exact process that works for them, the odds of you overcarbing the beer are pretty high and it will suck.
 
So, if I'm using 10' 3/16 beer lines in a fridge that maintains 40F, what would be the proper psi for serving a wheat beer? 13 psi or so?

I'm kegging my first kegerator batch tonight, and I wanted to get the general consensus.
 
I am planning on using a jockeybox for an upcoming camping trip. Currently one of the kegs I am using is chilled down to 38. Is it ok to take it out of the chill chest and let it warm to room temp and use it all weekend?
 
What I got out of this thread in the most basic of terms:
Chill Keg (38-42 degrees)
Place at 30psi for 24 hours
Purge and Reset to 10-12psi
Wait 5 days + and Serve!

This is what i think i am going to do with my next batch.
I tried shaking my last one and it didn't help, I still had to wait till it panned out.
I will let you know how this one comes out. It is a Porter and I do plan on bottling some so my friends can try.

:mug:
 
great thread, lots of excellent info.

quick question, does the space left from putting a 6.5 gallon batch into a 10gallon corny affect anything?
 
Quick question!

I have a beer very similar to the one described in the first post. It's at 45 degrees and I want to carb it to 2.5 volumes. The chart I have (in the back of BCS) says to use 15 PSI.

Can I set my regulator at 15 PSI, shake the keg until I don't hear anything else going in and be all set? What's the difference between setting at 15PSI and shaking and setting at a higher pressure, shaking and guessing a bit where it's going to end up.

I'd like to be able to take a growler of this stuff to a brew day on Sunday, but it's not the end of the world if I don't/can't.

Thanks

Matt
 
Quick question!

I have a beer very similar to the one described in the first post. It's at 45 degrees and I want to carb it to 2.5 volumes. The chart I have (in the back of BCS) says to use 15 PSI.

Can I set my regulator at 15 PSI, shake the keg until I don't hear anything else going in and be all set? What's the difference between setting at 15PSI and shaking and setting at a higher pressure, shaking and guessing a bit where it's going to end up.

I'd like to be able to take a growler of this stuff to a brew day on Sunday, but it's not the end of the world if I don't/can't.

Thanks

Matt

If you shake a keg your asking for foaming problems. It will never be PROPERLY carbed by Sunday, it will take two weeks minimum. Be patient, it will be worth it. If you get the urge to shake a beer, buy miller lite and shake it.:mug:
 
Here is what I would do to be ready by Sunday. Chill your beer! 18 to 24 hours should get it fully chilled to the temperature you intend to serve it at. Then roll the sucker. Hopefully you have check valves to protect you regulator and gauges from possible liquid traveling up the lines. Even better: you have check valves out at the gas disconnect so no beer gets in the line and goes sour over time. But a few feet of air hose is cheap. You can replace it. If you have no check valves, don’t roll you keg and; get some check valves!
Assuming you are good to roll your kegs, then roll them. The liquid dip tube serves beer off the bottom of the keg, and so you can pour a beer immediately after rolling the keg for 10 minutes and the main thing you will experience is a bit of extra pressure that might foam up a bit in the glass because of that. You can hit the pressure release if this becomes an issue. Otherwise you can roll at the pressure and temperature you intend to serve at, and, at least if you are pouring with a picnic tap you should be fine. If you have real taps, I guess I don’t know, but it seems at worst you would have to adjust the length of your beer line to balance the system.

Your beer will not be at its prime, and will have yeast flavors, it will be cloudy and so forth, but it will be carbonated and as drinkable as it can be given the time frame. Roll it, pour it, drink it, and if it passes your appraisal, fill a couple growlers. If not and I am wrong, well, you can curse me and you will know to ask your LHBS in the future, I suppose. But I think you will have growlers to drink on Sunday.

And yes, ideally, be patient and don’t rush the carbonation of your beer. It will be at its prime when it is at its prime. But that is not really the question you were asking, now, is it? FOAMING will not be a big issue. Roll it until the gas stops, and then for another minute or two.
 
Another non-believing shaker here. Whoever invents a way to measure carbonation will get my $100 for their tool..

AHS Honey Hibiscus wit
racked to keg yesterday at 5pm.
Gave 15 psi, then purged off any existing air
cold crashed to 42 or so, then side shook on 15psi for 30 minutes and returned to fridge.

Tested today, no carb at all really. :mad:

Now at 30psi until about this time tomorrow and will see whats up. Might bump it down to 15psi in the morning or late tonight if I test it and have some carb.
 
You guys that think you can carb a beer over night are funny. Keep on shaking rolling, and cranking up that psi. Do you really want to spend hours and hours brewing a beer, then rush one of the most important aspects of the whole process? If you can't plan ahead/be more patient, it's time for a new hobby.
 
You guys that think you can carb a beer over night are funny. Keep on shaking rolling, and cranking up that psi. Do you really want to spend hours and hours brewing a beer, then rush one of the most important aspects of the whole process? If you can't plan ahead/be more patient, it's time for a new hobby.

Yea, I kind of expected this kind of response.

I know Im rushing it... but we really wanted to try this beer this weekend. It LOOKS awesome.
 
Another non-believing shaker here. Whoever invents a way to measure carbonation will get my $100 for their tool..

AHS Honey Hibiscus wit
racked to keg yesterday at 5pm.
Gave 15 psi, then purged off any existing air
cold crashed to 42 or so, then side shook on 15psi for 30 minutes and returned to fridge.

Tested today, no carb at all really. :mad:

Now at 30psi until about this time tomorrow and will see whats up. Might bump it down to 15psi in the morning or late tonight if I test it and have some carb.

Blow down keg.
Take 3 readings of beer temp and take average
Start SLOWLY pressuring up on keg
When you hear the beer taking CO2, take the psi reading
Go to carb chart and work backwards
You know the beer temp and pressure - look on the chart

It will be close - you should maybe use 1 psi less than you show on your gauge because there will be a little lag in your hearing the gas going into the beer and when it actually hit equalibrium.

I know I spelled that wrong - sorry.
 
Is there any benefit to shaking the keg at chart pressure (e.g. 12 psi in the example in the OP)? Will that decrease the carbonation time without having to overpressure the keg?
 
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