Braided supply hose or copper

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John Long

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My current MLT is a small cooler using a copper drain manifold. I'm looking to upgrade but I'm not sure whether to build one with a braided stainless steel supply hose or use copper again.

What are some pro's and con's of each?

Thanks for the help!
 
I had trouble with my stainless steel braid. I have got some odd ball stuff around work, and I was able to come up with a piece of copper screening and a 1/2"diameter spring. I stretched the sprind so there was a few gaps between the coils. I then wrapped the copper screen around the spring to give it support. I folded over the open end and crimped it closed. The other end went on a hose barb and fastened with a worm clamp. I used it yesterday, and got barely any sediment even in the first open of the valve..
 
I tried a braid on 2 batches when I first built my MLT. Both got stuck. I built a manifold out of CPVC and haven't looked back.
 
I used copper for my manifold and it has worked flawlessly. I have not used anything else, so I really can't offer any comments about the other styles.
 
I've read some don't like this design, but I use a straight pipe copper manifold with a braid over it. Zero stuck sparges, sediment is non existent, it stays on the bottom, and is very sturdy. I'm batch sparging though.
 
People who have stuck sparges with a braid need to be beaten over the head with the faux stainless plastic braid they bought. Just kidding. I know there are people who actually have stuck sparges with braids but I still have a hard time believing it.
 
I've gotta cast my vote for copper. It's a PITA to cut the slots (hacksaw) but it's worked flawlessly every time. I did Ed's Hefe with no rice hulls and the wort flowed perfectly.
 
People who have stuck sparges with a braid need to be beaten over the head with the faux stainless plastic braid they bought. Just kidding. I know there are people who actually have stuck sparges with braids but I still have a hard time believing it.

I have had the same SS braid for over 2 years. Brewed countless batches, 60% wheat beers, wits, beers with considerable amounts of flaked barley....no problems. Sometimes the run-off is slow, never stuck.
 
I built a copper manifold. Depending on what you have on hand or have easiest access to don't think it really matters. If you go the braid route and it doesn't work you can easily convert it to copper with an additional part or two. As far as efficiency goes, it won't make any difference if you plan on batch sparging. It is just acting as a filter.
 
People who have stuck sparges with a braid need to be beaten over the head with the faux stainless plastic braid they bought. Just kidding. I know there are people who actually have stuck sparges with braids but I still have a hard time believing it.

haha, beat away sir! It was possibly a little bit of user error. I just couldn't get the damn thing to work. I also had one of those "I hate this damn thing" moments that is the plague of every DIY'er. I couldn't rest until I had something different, even if I could get it to work. I guess its all relative, but building a CPVC manifold was a lot easier for me. Its a good bit sturdier also.
 
People who have stuck sparges with a braid need to be beaten over the head with the faux stainless plastic braid they bought. Just kidding. I know there are people who actually have stuck sparges with braids but I still have a hard time believing it.
I've only made a couple of AG batches, but I'm surprised I didn't get stuck when I had a braincramp and flipped the valve on my water cooler MLT to wide-open when it was filled to the brim with water and grain. I realized my error after a few seconds, but it didn't get stuck. After that experience, with the same ingredients I would say that it's unstickable (it's a SS braid loop, not sure if the loop vs crimped-straight makes a diff).
 
3/8" copper tubing soldered inside a 1/2" PEX male end threaded onto my bulkhead. This tubing terminates via a compression fitting for taking apart, into a 1/2" PEX TEE, which rests on the bottom of my mlt. I have a piece of 3/8" slotted copper tubing soldered to it and another TEE 180* away. Connected to the cap of each TEE is the stainless braid, which makes a complete circle. Inside each braid is coiled 12 gauge copper wire for collapse insurance. NO stuck sparges with 1/2" valve wide open, great siphon effect, leaving very little wort at the bottom of the mlt.
 
3/8" copper tubing soldered inside a 1/2" PEX male end threaded onto my bulkhead. This tubing terminates via a compression fitting for taking apart, into a 1/2" PEX TEE, which rests on the bottom of my mlt. I have a piece of 3/8" slotted copper tubing soldered to it and another TEE 180* away. Connected to the cap of each TEE is the stainless braid, which makes a complete circle. Inside each braid is coiled 12 gauge copper wire for collapse insurance. NO stuck sparges with 1/2" valve wide open, great siphon effect, leaving very little wort at the bottom of the mlt.

I have very little idea what most of that means. :confused:
 
People who have stuck sparges with a braid need to be beaten over the head with the faux stainless plastic braid they bought. Just kidding. I know there are people who actually have stuck sparges with braids but I still have a hard time believing it.

You are a man of wisdom and class, Bobby! :) I've done 350 batches with the same braid and never had a stuck runoff. I take no special "precautions".
 
I have had one stuck sparge with a SS braid when using a lot of rye. It was easy to un-stick though. It was the only time I've had a problem. Braids are the way to go IMO because of cost and relative ease of use. But, both are pretty cheap and will get the job done. Good luck.
 
I'm going to try out the braided hose since I've already used copper. Sawing the copper was by far my hardest part.
 
John Long,

You need a tubing cutter. It is cheap (5 bucks or so at Home Depot). Tighten it barely spin it, tighten it a little more turn it a few times, keep doing it until it cuts through. Really easy.

Do a google for "Making A Mash Tun." The second one that I see is a Two Part You Tube. Guy looks tall about 48 or so and he walks you right through and lists parts. I am getting parts for this build today. He shows how to use the tubing cutter in one of the 2 parts.

When I put the link on this post, it put the you tube viewing panel up, I don't know if that is legal on this site. I have never seen a youtube panel on a post yet, but haven't read every page yet, I am trying though.

I know it is a lot easier braided, I know that I can tweak any probs either way I go. I know that the braid won't pick up all the wort, but if you sparge enough there would only be water left that it won't pick up. The reason I decided this route, is that, I have the Dremel, and the torch and the copper tubing, and the silver soulder (spelling might be bad). I can't find flux (it is around here somewhere) I just need the fittings, as well as the valve I would have to buy anyhow.

Good luck on which ever you decide.

cheers :mug:
 
I have a copper manifold in my rectangular 48quart cooler that I have used for all my AG batches. I will be trying a braided hose in a 5 gallon water cooler this Tuesday because I cannot get good efficiency with the rectangular cooler/copper manifold. I have been getting about 65% efficiency and this is too low for me. I thought maybe the different cooler dimensions will change my results and I didn't want to make another manifold for an "experiment".
 
John Long,


I know it is a lot easier braided, I know that I can tweak any probs either way I go. I know that the braid won't pick up all the wort, but if you sparge enough there would only be water left that it won't pick up. The reason I decided this route, is that, I have the Dremel, and the torch and the copper tubing, and the silver soulder (spelling might be bad). I can't find flux (it is around here somewhere) I just need the fittings, as well as the valve I would have to buy anyhow.



cheers :mug:

Definitely make sure you do NOT solder every single joint for your manifold. I soldered all but about 4 joints that way I can take the manifold apart for cleaning. I didn't want the thing falling apart while mashing but I also didn't want moldy pieces of grain growing in it between brew days.
 
I have seen this video before and his design seems alright but I'm not crazy about an o-ring on the outside. Make sure you get SS washers for the inside of the cooler however. The washers from home depot and Lowes will rust away and rust causes gross flavors. I suspect that he just bought washers off the shelf and SS washers can be difficult to find in the size that you need (about 7/8, McMaster carr has them). This is why he had to use a step drill to make the washer bigger and a step drill is not a beginners tool that everyone has around (me). Also, he dosen't show you how he cut the washer......

The plumbing for my manifold is similar except I did not use the soft copper tubing that he used just 1/2 rigid copper tubing.
 
Typically HD and Lowes doesn't have a 5/8" SS washer. I was able to find a bronze something or another (it's like a washer, but it's not technically a washer) at my Ace/Truevalue (don't remember which exactly) I still had to sand-out/file the inside to get a perfect fit, but it's worked so far.
 
Just had a SS braid get stuck on me on saturday. Gonna try something new. My 2 cents
 
Try a better braid!

I have heard that some braids do have a finer weave that can cause them to plug up but I don't have any experience with this. I wish my local HD, Lowes, Ace or True Value carried SS washers larger than 1/2 inch. They all seem to carry the 1/2 washer but nothing bigger. Oh well, at least you can get them easily.

P.S. Austinhomebrew.com does carry them and they kick butt to begin with.
 
What about copper and brass washers inside, will they produce off flavors?

No they should not at all. A lot of people use copper and brass for manifolds and fittings so it should be not different. The problem is that copper and brass are soft and a washer is used to distribute force over a large area and needs to be structurally sound. But if you find a brass washer that is strong enough, do it to it. It's not like they have to withstand the forces of a roller coaster or anything. On the other hand, I would think brass and copper fender washers would at this size would be even harder to find than SS. But I'm wrong a lot.
 
Has anyone seen this? It almost looks too easy? Is it really that easy?

Would the 1" x 1/2" threaded connector fit tightly enough to prevent leaks? In the picture, he crimped the end. How do you crimp it?

Eric
 
Has anyone seen this? It almost looks too easy? Is it really that easy?

Would the 1" x 1/2" threaded connector fit tightly enough to prevent leaks? In the picture, he crimped the end. How do you crimp it?

Eric
From what I've seen building an MLT with a water cooler, there can be a few tricky points getting a good seal. I tried using an Igloo but the gasket and fitting didn't lend itself well to the available sizes of parts at HD/Lowe's. The rubber gasket on the Rubbermaid was much better at expanding to make a good seal when compressed between a washer and the side of the cooler.

As for crimping, I'd guess he just folded the end a few times and squeezed it hard with some pliers. The manifold doesn't need to be air or water tight....just grain tight.
 
I could be that easy if you have the same cooler. I have made two Mash tuns now and each one required different fittings to create a proper seal. Mainly it's because different coolers have different widths to the wall. But yeah it can be that easy. It sometimes takes a few trips to the hardware store but it should not be very expensive to make a braided MLT.

P.S. His instructions say to get a a "threaded connector" which is called a nipple.
 
i use both i have two mash tuns (i use one for the HLT)

for batch sparges i use the braid cause it clears the wort better and i never have had a stuck sparge
for fly sparges i use a copper manifold for ovious reasons
 
I could be that easy if you have the same cooler. I have made two Mash tuns now and each one required different fittings to create a proper seal. Mainly it's because different coolers have different widths to the wall. But yeah it can be that easy. It sometimes takes a few trips to the hardware store but it should not be very expensive to make a braided MLT.

P.S. His instructions say to get a a "threaded connector" which is called a nipple.

Thanks for the help.

Eric
 
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