Hoppo's E-Brewery Build

^^^^^^^^^^
This

I haven't settled on a color yet, but am taking into consideration feedback that I receive. I am however going to totally cheat on the drywall. I have decided that I am not going to mud and tape whatsoever, since it is one of my least favorite things to do. I am going to trim all inside and outside corners with knotty pine boards and then use the the same thin knotty pine planking that I used to cover all of the components to hide all of the drywall seams. I'm going for a dimensional look and at the same time will be able to avoid mudding and taping the drywall all together. Should look cool and save a sh*t load of headaches. More feedback on colors?

I have a room in my basement that is a dark gray/green/blue mix and I really like it. But, it would make your room seem quite a bit smaller and darker. You could go with a blue/gray, green? What kind of lighting are you going with? I recently changed the fluorescent bulbs in my garage brewery to be more of a true white - like natural light and that totally changed the feel of the space. So, I would say that paint and lighting should probably be considered together?

Hoppopotomus said:

More feedback on colors?

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you could go pastel with inspirational wording! something liiiikkkkeee...


or this?

http://www.amazon.com/Justin-Bieber-kisses-sayings-quotes/dp/B005U8DI9M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1355761139&sr=8-3&keywords=Justin+bieber+wallpaper

Dude, you need to get a jacketed kettle and use that boiler to run it!

Gridlocked said:

you could go pastel with inspirational wording! something liiiikkkkeee...

or this?

http://www.amazon.com/Justin-Bieber-kisses-sayings-quotes/dp/B005U8DI9M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1355761139&sr=8-3&keywords=Justin+bieber+wallpaper

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Although my daughter would go ape sh*t for it, I'm afraid I would have to kick my own a$$! I was thinking to myself....."how does Ted come up with these goofy a$$ ideas?"......, but then it hit me. You're a closet Bieber lover......, so gay.

rvklein said:

Dude, you need to get a jacketed kettle and use that boiler to run it!

Click to expand...

I know....don't think it hasn't crossed my mind. I'm taking it one step at a time though. Our neighborhood is due to be converted from LP to natural gas sometime over the next 2-3 years. The boiler is convertable b/w natural gas and propane, but my big azz water heater is not. I'm going to use the boiler not only for heating, but for all domestic hot water purposes at that time as well. Maybe at that time, I'll pick my mechanical guy's brain about setting me up for it using the boiler for a jacketed kettle, but in the meantime.....I'm sticking to old school.

I got the rest of the Brewery drywalled and about 80% of the back splash tiled behind the brew station before I ran out of pre-mixed mortar.....what a pain in the a$$. I thought I had plenty, but didn't. Just got a fresh bucket from HD and will knock the rest of this tile out later today. I also found a heavy duty porceline tile that looks much like the polished travertine stone for the floor of the brewery. Although I love the look of the travertine, I prefer the density and durability of the porceline c/t the stone for the floor application. I also decided to cover the entire back wall on both sides of the brewing station with knotty pine paneling instead of paint. Hope it turns out. Here are a couple of pics of the progress......more later.

Looking great. Thanks

Awesome updates as usual!!

Thanks guys! Finished up the tile last night and am going to move onto knotty pine to cover the wall surfaces on both sides of the brewing station. I also need to rip the cedar log and get it knifed to trim out the front and sides of the ventilation hood. More pics. to come.

I also put in a final big order with Bobby at Brew Hardware for the remaining stainless steel fittings, site glasses, high temp. tubing, 2 chugger pumps with ss heads, and some other odds and ends. Already had all of the 3 piece ball valves, HERMs coil, heating elements, etc. from prior purchases. My wife bought me a PICO false bottom for xmas, so I now will have everything that I need to finish my keggle conversions. Just need to find a vortex fan for the ventilation hood and bite the bullet on the control panel and I'll be set. Since my order was $700 with Bobby, I'll probably hold off on the control panel for a while until the sting of these purchases subsides a bit (especially for my wife). Should have enough parts now to keep me busy for a while.

P.S.....if anyone has experience with Arduino systems and can put something together for me to control this system that would be more cost effective than the $1500 for the control panel, please let me know!

Here's the finished stone tile backsplash. I'll probably do all of the grouting at the end for the backsplash, component tops, and floor once I lay the tile on the floor. Should make for a hell of a miserable day! I love tiling, but I hate grouting.

......and a few shots with the brewery put back together. I'm patiently awaiting my order from Bobby for the remaining stainless fittings, site glasses, chugger pumps, and accessories. My next major project probably should be the keggle conversions. I have also done a bit of research over the past few days for alternative methods to controlling the brewery. I love Kal's panel, one of the best I've seen by far, but not as cost effective as I would like. Not to mention, it would probably take me months to put the damn thing together. I simply couldn't justify spending another $725 on top of the $1420 to purchase it already assembled. There's no doubt that his pricing is not at all out of line for what you get, but it's an awful lot of money to spend on a hobby. I'm kind of liking the idea of the BCS by Embedded Control Concepts. I also checked out the Brewtroller, but it doesn't seem nearly as user friendly. I would love to control this thing with my IPad or any other networked device, as the BCS allows. I realize that there would still be some wiring involved to incorporate switches for temperature probes and output relays to control the pumps and elements, but it has to be much cheaper than a full blow, top of the line control panel.......right? Any feedback from those using this system would be greatly appreciated.

Hoppo - You and I were on the same build/buy fence a few months ago. I'd really encourage you to build a control panel like mine... I still have to compile the final parts list and costs, but I would be surprised if I spent more than $800 on the CP (~$350 from Auberins, ~$350 from ebrewsupply, and ~$100 from home depot/radio shack for wires, fuses, connectors).

-Gus

I gotta side with Gus here. With all of the hands-on effort you put into your work, the sense of pride you will have in having built it yourself is well worth the extra time... That and save some money.

I am still building my Kal clone control panel but I have bought most of the parts already and I 100% agree with the previous two posters. I am having a great time building the CP and I have the build estimated at about $800 (I have paid out already for most of it but have some add on stuff still.)

BUILD IT!

Ok...ok...points well take. I have to be honest with you though, I feel like I'm in way over my head with building a control panel on my own. Hence my initial plan of to buy directly from Kal and follow his step by step instructions. I do have a neighbor that is an electrical engineer that could help me, but it's a lot to ask of him. I have recently had a couple of patients, who are system control engineers question why I would even want to go with an all out control panel when other computer controlled/modulated options are available at a fraction of the price.

Building a control panel certainly is a viable option, but I would also like to hear from those that have gone the Brewtroller or BCS control module. When I look at the BCS controller at $189 and switches and relays compatible with that system that are very cost effective, I can't help but think that I could do it for 1/3 of the cost of ordering from Kal. I may be completely naive and totally off base in my thinking, simply because I have a tremendous lack of knowledge in this department. That's why I am asking for people from both sides of the table to weigh in. I truly appreciate any and all input. My goal is to be efficient and cost effective, yet safe. This will be in my basement, so I certainly don't want to cut corners either.

Man, I should've jumped in on an order at Brewhardware with you! Converting a couple of kegs myself...everything is looking awesome, keep up the good work!

Sorry man.....wish I would have known. Do you have your kegs already? Have you cut the tops out yet? If not let me know, because I built a jig and have an angle grinder to cut perfect 12" openings. I was taking inventory on all of my keggle conversion parts last night and came across the jig in the bottom of one of my keggles. Let me know and I can even cut them for you over a couple of beers, just need to get a few new cutting wheels and a flap wheel to clean up the edges.

I'll need to cut the lid off the two I got for Christmas. The jig would be awesome, I already have an angle grinder from harbor freight and appropriate discs from my first keg. Do you have a step bit yet? I'm just doing bulkheads and dip tube for my HLT and boil kettle for now, sight glasses and FB weren't in the budget this time around. I probably won't get to them until after the 16th, running the Disney marathon next week before a 5 year hiatus from that distance. Lets get together after then, and let me know if you need a brew assistant in that sanctuary.

I ordered the two pack of step bits from Bobby, which includes the small one (3/16" to 7/8")and the larger one (13/16" to 1 3/8"). Need the bigger one for my heating elements. I'm not sure how well they are going to hold up being relatively inexpensive bits.....not Greenlee's. With my HERMs system I will have a total of 12 holes to drill or punch. I will have 7 bulkheads combined in the three vessels, 2 site glass ports, a temp. probe port in the BK, and two larger holes for the heating elements (one in the HLT and one in the BK). If the bits don't hold up, I have a set of Greenlee punches that a patient of mine is letting me burrow, but it appears at first glance that they are conduit punches. Looks like I could punch the 7/8" holes for the bulkheads, but that's about with his set.

I think that I would rather drill initially, because I would hate to have a bolt snap or ruin the die on one of his punches. Greenlee punches are ridiculously expensive, so I'm reluctant about using them despite the fact that they punch a nice cleaner hole than drilling. I think I'm going to take Bobby's advice and drill slow, with moderate pressure under high torque, with plenty of cutting oil and see how it goes. I'll start with the small bit and knock out the 9/16" holes for the two site glass ports and the temp. probe port first. Then I will use the larger bit to drill the 1 1/4" hole for the heating elements. Then I will switch back to the small bit and start drilling the 7/8" bulkhead holes until it fails, at which point I'll try to use the larger bit to finish the rest of them. If both bits fail before then, I'll resort to the punches.

If I were you I would use the 7/8th punch for your bulkheads. Punches are a lot easier to use and make a perfectly sized hole that requires little or no cleanup. I bought a used 7/8 punch and have punched easily 15 holes with it and its still in great shape. Worth the small risk of having to replace it for your patient

Thanks for the feedback. I may give the punch a try and if the first one goes through smoothly, then I will proceed with it. I know the holes will be cleaner with the punch. Were your holes punched in kegs?

Hoppopotomus said:

Thanks for the feedback. I may give the punch a try and if the first one goes through smoothly, then I will proceed with it. I know the holes will be cleaner with the punch. Were your holes punched in kegs?

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most of them. Did a few test holes in a cheap old pot first when I was practicing the dimpling process for soldering couplers. Just put some WD40 on the threads of the draw bolt and on the actual cutting surface and it will go smoothly.

Much appreciated! I may try to get all of the 7/8" holes done tonight with the punch then. Just need to map out locations for all of the ports. Thanks for the feedback.....very helpful.

OMJ said:

Just put some WD40 on the threads of the draw bolt and on the actual cutting surface and it will go smoothly.

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This is the most important part. I use a white lithium lube on the threads. The threads get more stress than any other part. Lube them before each hole, even if they look wet from the last one.

Is that something that I could pick up from any hardware or HD?

Nevermind, just did a quick web search and it's pretty much readily accessible at an hardware, auto store, or home improvement store. Thanks for the advice.....I'll stop at the Autozone next to my office on my way home!

jEld said:

I'll need to cut the lid off the two I got for Christmas. The jig would be awesome, I already have an angle grinder from harbor freight and appropriate discs from my first keg. Do you have a step bit yet? I'm just doing bulkheads and dip tube for my HLT and boil kettle for now, sight glasses and FB weren't in the budget this time around. I probably won't get to them until after the 16th, running the Disney marathon next week before a 5 year hiatus from that distance. Lets get together after then, and let m
e know if you need a brew assistant in that sanctuary.

Click to expand...

Sounds great. Get ahold of me when you get back and we can get your kettles cut. Or if you want the jig before you leave shoot me a text. If the greenlee punch works out well on mine, we could punch the holes for your bulkheads as well. Good luck in the marathon.

TrainSafe said:

This is the most important part. I use a white lithium lube on the threads. The threads get more stress than any other part. Lube them before each hole, even if they look wet from the last one.

Click to expand...

I just use kitchen oil - dip it in every 30 secs or so. Haven't had any problems

Stopped and got some white lithium grease at AutoZone on my way home. Worked like a charm with the Greenlee punch. I punched a few holes last night for my main drainage bulkhead ports in each of the 3 vessels. Now I'm just trying to figure out the exact placements for the recirculating ports in the HLT/MLT, the site glass ports in the HLT/BK, the HERMs coil input/outlet ports in the HLT, and heating element positioning in the HLT/BK. Anyone that has done a Kal clone with keggles, please help! Here is a link to my keggle conversion thread.

I'm glad that it went smoothly for you. Keep up the great work.

First off: spectacular work! Truly impressive.

I don't know if you're still considering paint as an option but I think that covering the walls in the T&G pine will be too similar to the furniture pieces and they will blend in with the walls. I liked your idea of using the T&G to cover the screws and painting the framed areas. Maybe use a color similar to the tumbled travertine tile on the furniture?

Good luck with the rest of the build!

Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I am still considering paint with knotty pine trim for the exact same reason that you mentioned. The components would likely blend in too much. I still have several gallons of primer from doing the rest of the basement. Painting could be done at a fraction of the cost as well, so I am starting to lean back in that direction.....just need to settle on a color. Thanks!

Love the setup!

I live close (farmington hills) and would love to get together and pick your brain/learn about e brewing and share a few pints!

Lemme know if you're up for it.

Looks awesome!

Thanks man. I'm certainly not an expert by any means with eBrewing. I have always brewed the old fashion way with a cooler MLT and a stainless kettle over a propane turkey fryer. This is a complete and total learning process for me, so I'm not sure how effective I would be in fielding your questions. I tell you what, once I learn a bit more and finish this system, I'll invite you over for a brew day to test it out.

OK, so I'm stalled out with my keggle conversions until my final and most important shipment arrives from Bobby. I just checked my cell and it is supposed to be delivered sometime this afternoon. To pass some time this afternoon, I went down to my local plumbing supply company and picked up drain/ejector pump system for my brewery sink. After discussing options with my plumber friend and doing some research, I decided to go with the Zoeller 105-0001 with the M53 pump. I checked out the "Drainosaur" by Little Giant and one by Stevens. Since the Zoeller is a little more compact, gets excellent reviews, and I could get a contractor discount, I went with it. I also decided to go with an air admittance valve for venting purposes, as I really don't need any more vents coming out of the back of my house.

I keep a box of plumbing pieces and parts laying around, but I am missing a couple of 2" fittings for the vent, so I really need to take a trip to the hardware. The problem is that the tracking on the package that I am receiving from Bobby today requires confirmation of delivery, so I have to sign for it. I'm stuck waiting for the USPS to arrive before I can proceed with either project. Here are a few pics of my new pump system and the valve that I'm using.

Got the Zoeller ejector pump installed last night and managed to get most of my keggle conversions completed this evening. I received my final shipment of parts, I spent a few hours punching and drilling holes and installing the weldless bulkheads, ball valves, etc. I still have a lot of sanding and polishing on the keggles, but threw everything together to see how it looks. I'm pretty pleased so far. My wife was out shopping the other day and got an 18 ft. LED rope light on clearings for dirt cheap, so I installed it in my ventilation hood for some additional lighting. Here are a few pics.

......oops, the first pic was supposed to be this one. I plan on building a hinged panel door on the base of the sink to hide the lower plumbing components, but still allow me to open it up to utilize the drain stopper handle.

This is going to be one of the best looking builds ever.

Does that pump kick on automatically?