Chinese SSR help

I may have killed one... one of the 40a chinese SSR's. My control wiring is correct, and I'm able to switch it on and off with a dc voltage, but the load terminals, marked 1 and 2, does it matter which one is incoming and which one is outgoing? I ran from source into #1 and out of #2 to my heating element.

Thanks in advance!

Don't think it matters, it's just like a plain old light switch and your just completing a circuit.

The in/out on AC side does not matter, you can not kill it that way so RDWHAHB. Of more importance is the place waste heat can go, I hope it is tranferring heat to enclosure wall or heat sink so the internal devices dont get too hot, 140 degrees is as hot as you want to go.

Doesn't matter unless it was a DC SSR, in which case it will be marked with a (+) and (-) on the SSR.

I expected as such, that it did not matter and that it was merely joining a circuit.
It is screwed to a heatsink and joined with arctic silver compound.
Ever since it switched that first time with the load connected, it is dead as far as I can tell. Total bummer. It behaved perfectly as expected before the loads were connected, and I was able to adjust pwm width and everything, with appropriate response from the light on the ssr. This is all without temp input with bcs-460. I used manual mode and duty cycle adjustments. I am supplying power from a 30 amp supplementary breaker to a 5500 watt element.
The SSR does not show + and - on the load terminals. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370345623698 err yes it is DC... I may have screwed up there.. Can I kill it in this way?
Now its just stuck on

Uh Oh, looks like you will be shopping for an AC SSR, unfortunately the transistors and power FET's in DC SSR's dont play well with AC. What is the max load this device will see?, size the replacement at least 150% of continous load to reduce the heating effects when switching the larger loads, especially if it is inside the enclosure.

Yep, I misread the ad and interpreted the dc as the coil voltage, but it actually says up to 220v DC LOAD. I guess it just couldn't take the 23 amp AC current. I'll be rebuying, this time from somewhere that doesn't take 3 weeks... yep I hope auber's ssr's fit on these heatsinks. That's ok though, in the meantime I'm going to brew a batch on 100% power 5500 watt in 14 gallon is quite powerful.
Thanks for the help all, I just made a silly mistake that cost me about 3 weeks wait.

Budzu go get yourself one of these or maybe an extra one for backup: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=30

Budzu said:

Yep, I misread the ad and interpreted the dc as the coil voltage, but it actually says up to 220v DC LOAD. I guess it just couldn't take the 23 amp AC current. I'll be rebuying, this time from somewhere that doesn't take 3 weeks... yep I hope auber's ssr's fit on these heatsinks. That's ok though, in the meantime I'm going to brew a batch on 100% power 5500 watt in 14 gallon is quite powerful.
Thanks for the help all, I just made a silly mistake that cost me about 3 weeks wait.

Click to expand...

Be aware... at that wattage and resulting BTU output, you will be boiling off about 17.5 pounds of water per hour. This comes out to about 2.1 gallons. I have 9000W in my kettle right now, but I only run it at about 4000W for a 13 gallon boil.

Just so you can plan for it

The Roqk, that's the one I'll be using. Does anyone have both of the ssr's? Auber's and the ebay seller's? Can you tell me if the mounting holes are spaced the same? I'm hoping to put it on the same heatsink.
Yeah willy, I test heated some water, filled the keggle to the brim (about 14.5g) and I got from 45 to 170 in 50 minutes, 170 to raging boil in 15 more. And that boil is truly raging.

Budzu said:

The Roqk, that's the one I'll be using. Does anyone have both of the ssr's? Auber's and the ebay seller's? Can you tell me if the mounting holes are spaced the same? I'm hoping to put it on the same heatsink.
Yeah willy, I test heated some water, filled the keggle to the brim (about 14.5g) and I got from 45 to 170 in 50 minutes, 170 to raging boil in 15 more. And that boil is truly raging.

Click to expand...

That is the nice thing about electric, you can pretty precisely tailor your boil off. 970 BTUs per pound to create water vapor (boil off). So once you are at a boil you can precisely determine what power setting you need to get your target boil off in an hour or so. 970 x 13 would boil off about 1.5 gallons.

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I have a question about SSR's too. I'm looking for one that's controlled by 110ac (my house current) and everyone I have found on ebay says the control voltage is 3-32VDC, but in the literature it has both ac and dc control currents listed. So can I use one of these with a 20amp circuit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-Solid...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2306085592

Thanks.

Mario

mariojr said:

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I have a question about SSR's too. I'm looking for one that's controlled by 110ac (my house current) and everyone I have found on ebay says the control voltage is 3-32VDC, but in the literature it has both ac and dc control currents listed. So can I use one of these with a 20amp circuit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-Solid...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2306085592

Thanks.

Mario

Click to expand...

I am a little confused by the post... but

The SSR you have listed is a DC control and AC load SSR. So you can use it on your 20A household circuit, yes. The literature is just listing all of the different models, the ONE that you have the auction link for is DC control and AC load.

Mario:
If you are intending to use the relay to manually switch something on and off with your 110v, then an ssr relay is not what you need. SSR's are designed to rapidly and automatically switch on and off if needed.
What are you switching on and off, and what do you want to switch it with? We can help find a better alternative for you.

I have a LOVE temp switch and want to control the temp of my HLT which I have an 2000w element on a 20amp circuit. The LOVE is only rated at 16amps or so and I'd like to use it to monitor the water temp of the HLT.

You are on the right track, as long as your LOVE has a DC control output, you are golden with an SSR, that is what it is made for... they are great high current switches.

It's definitely AC output. I'll just have to look a little harder to find what I need. I was just looking to create a little project for myself without spending much $$$. Thanks for the kick in the right direction.

Thanks.

Mario

You can use a wall wart dc supply for the dc voltage to operate the SSR via the love control contacts. Any voltage between 3.5 and 24 volts and 200 Ma or greater will work, you should have plenty of canidates to choose from in the junk drawer. Use the female end of a 2 wire extension cord for the wall wart and land the wires on the same source for the love control.

I found a spec sheet on the auber ssr's. 47.5 mm between mounting screws, and my heatsinks measure 1 7/8". So they are interchangeable.

40$ and another week or two peeps... will complete a 3 keggle 2 pump system, which is designed to produce a 6, 12, or 24 gallon batch. Yep 24 gallon in one batch. I'll cover the idea in another thread when its done.

How are the Carlo Gavazzi relays? Anyone tried these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/CARLO-GAVAZZI-R...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53e02d77a0

kladue said:

You can use a wall wart dc supply for the dc voltage to operate the SSR via the love control contacts. Any voltage between 3.5 and 24 volts and 200 Ma or greater will work, you should have plenty of canidates to choose from in the junk drawer. Use the female end of a 2 wire extension cord for the wall wart and land the wires on the same source for the love control.

Click to expand...

Somethings are so simple when you look at them from a different perspective.

Thanks.

MArio

No it comes from many years of McGyvering things and repurposing anything that might work to fit the need.

I just realized I bought one of the Chinese DC load SSRs. Since I apparently wont be able to use them on household current for my RIMs - anyone have an idea on what I can use it for?