Will This Even Become Beer?

I'm freaking out a little bit right now, and I'll tell you why. This is my second batch and first that isn't from a kit and I'm not sure this will all come together and become beer. I'll take you through my process and all of my ingredients.

I steeped the grains at around 160 for 30 mins.
Began a boil.
1 oz Simcoe @ 60
3 lbs Light DME @ 50
1 lb other DME@ 50
1 oz Centennial @ 45
3 lbs Light DME@ 30
1 lb other DME@ 30
1 oz Simcoe @ 15
1/2 oz Centennial @ 10
1/2 oz Simcoe @ 5
1 lb Honey @ 5
1/2 oz Centennial @ 1

Forgot that little tablet that is supposed to be a substitute for Irish Moss. Put in just after boil

Post-boil
1/2 oz Simcoe, 1 oz Centennial @ 60 min

Dry Hop
1 oz Simcoe 21 days
1 oz Centennial 21 days
1 lb Honey
WLP001

Will it be beer?!?! Do I need to add/do anything? I know the biggest thing the guy at the home brew shop said is to not worry, 99% of the time it will all work out.
Also, I was supposed to get 8oz of Turbinado, but I don't think I got it(unless he put it with the grains) What will happen if I don't use this?

Thank you for any and all help.

I would skip the pound of honey @ dryhop....
Even skip the honey in the boil also, but that's me...I use corn sugar to dry out my beers and bump up the abv...
If you want the honey taste, I would use a little amount of honey malt, and a little goes a long ways...
Igotsand

Well, the honey is in there, there's no changing that. Also, I have a bunch of gunk from the hops, do I just filter that out later?

considering the fact that you have malt, hops and yeast listed, and assuming that you will add water, from what I understand water+malt+hops+yeast=beer. I would say your going to have yourself some beer.

It will be beer. It just may not be the beer you intended.
Busy recipe for a new brewer, and there is no need for staggered additions of malt extract. Better to add the majority very late in the boil to increase hop utilization in the boil. Next time.
Turbinado and honey won't do much for you in this recipe, and you can use plain table/cane sugar to dry out a beer heavy on extract. Also, dry hopping for 21 days is probably excessive, 7-10 days is just fine.
Read up on the forum on the typical mistakes to avoid like bottling too early and such and it will turn out fine.

Thanks for the advice.

Whoops, didn't see that you brewed it allready...
What was your og, and fg?
Have you tasted it yet?
Igotsand

I didn't see any grains listed.

Yup it'll be beer Might even be good beer

Bobby_M said:

I didn't see any grains listed.

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I was thinking the same thing.

The guy at the shop is right, you will have good beer... as long as your sanitation is good. Just curious, what where the grains and what is "other DME?"

They were steeped, but what were they? It will definitely be beer.

seabass, brothel? sweet!

I don't know what the grains were(I really should) and the "other DME" was an other light DME, I forget exactly which one. It is fermenting right now(bubbles in the air lock), which is good. Am I going to need a sugar or something? For my last one I dissolved a package of some sugar in boiling water and added it in right before I bottled. Is that absolutely necessary?

dryhop for 7 days max, 21 means the aroma oils will already be mostly gone and leave your beer smelling like a bell pepper

Also there is a lot of gunk left over from the hops. How long should I leave that for?

bellmtbbq said:

dryhop for 7 days max, 21 means the aroma oils will already be mostly gone and leave your beer smelling like a bell pepper

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Okay. I don't know why the recipe called for 21 days.

Am I going to need a sugar or something? For my last one I dissolved a package of some sugar in boiling water and added it in right before I bottled. Is that absolutely necessary?

Yes, you will need the sugar. It provides a new fuel source for the yeast in the bottled beer to eat and spit out CO2 for carbonation in the bottle because it is sealed up.
There are several online carbonation calculators, the amount of sugar needed is based on the volume of beer to be bottled, the remaining CO2 it has dissolved (depends upon temperature), and the desired level of carbonation. Better to go by weight rather than volume, but the shop might have given you a preset amount to use, which would probably be fine. Boil it in a couple of cups of water to sanitize and dissolve in the beer to be bottled.

Will any sugar do?

Use 3/4 cup corn sugar, buy it at the homebrew shop. I suggest watching some youtube videos, you can easily find a video for every step of the brewing process.

FluffyMuffins said:

Will any sugar do?

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Not just any sugar because there are some that are unfermentable by the yeast you use but corn sugar or table sugar work but the amount you need will be different. There are calculators for that difference.

Holy IBU's. I hope you like em bitter, that came out over 100 ibus with only 5.8% alcohol.