Round or Rectangular cooler for All Grain? Manifold, FB, or braid?

I'm in analysis paralysis I can't decide between a round or a rectangular cooler.

I will definitely start off with batch sparging (the double batch method, most likely) but I would eventually like to do fly sparging because it maximizes efficiency. I am told that the best setup for fly sparging is a round cooler with a false bottom, but a rectangular cooler would work as well. For batch sparging, a rectangular cooler with a braid is the cheapest route, but unfortunately it doesn't work well with batch sparging.

I'm also confused about whether to get a false bottom, a braid, or a manifold.

What would you recommend to a beginner? Thanks.

Well, I have a rectangular cooler with a CPVC manifold I use for batch sparging. I did my first AG recipe with it a few days ago, ended up with 91.37% efficiency (probably a lucky shot, but what can ya do? ). Here is a pic:

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For fly sparging, I would recommend a cylindrical cooler with a false bottom.
The reasons for this are:
1. The false bottom provides for even flow across the whole area, thus minimizing channeling
2. It is the ideal shape for a sparge arm to deliver water very gently across the entire surface of the grain so it can percolate through the entire grain bed.
For batch sparging, channeling is not an issue, and I doubt that the shape of the cooler, or the method for collecting the wort makes a noticeable difference.

I'm also not sure that fly sparging is noticeably more efficient. Although I get slightly higher efficiency when fly sparging (with cylindrical cooler and false bottom), this is probably because I fly sparge 95% of the time, and I have never got the batch sparging process dialed in.

When making heavier beers (with an OG > 1.070), it seems that fly sparging with the right equipment can be noticeably more efficient than batch sparging.

-a.

88-94% efficiency by batch sparging here. Cheapest cooler you can find, SS braid.

i built a 5 gallon round mlt with ss braid. i'll be on my third AG this weekend. my efficiancy has been hitting around 70% probally do to my AG noobness. anyways, i see myself batch sparging several times before i decide to experiment more. the decision to build the round cooler came from the easy shopping list on the forums.
printed it out and gave the list to an employee at home depot.

tasted my first brown AG the other day and she's a beaur. another reason for me to keep improving on one technique right now.

i do keep eyeballing the rectangular coolers though. god, i can't stop buying brew stuff!

+1 on what Bobby_M said.

For me I went with a 10gal round cooler (don't buy a 5gal) plus a braid. I went with a 30" braid and formed a loop, connecting both ends to a T fitting.

Use a square cooler, I think 50 or 60 qt, available at Targer (Blue Igloo). Drilled holes in lid and filled with GREAT STUFF expanding foam for extra insulation. I think the bottom measures 13.5 square. built a manifold of pvc like above, but with one less vertical (if looking at pic above) line and one more horizontal all the way through. Mine is a little smaller than pic, keeping away from sides to prevent any digging of water at the edges. Used band saw to cut thin grooves in pvc for manifold. Build exact same for sparge arm, but drilled pvc with small bit. Looses about 1 degree over 90 minute mash. Do fly sparge using a 5 gallon round cooler and get efficiency of around 85. Cheap to do, I think 20 for cooler and 10 or so for pvc. I didn;t glue any pvc togeter, makes nice to clean and no nasty glue in ur wort. If you want pics, let me know. I probably should just upgrade membership and post in my gallery. :rockin: :rockin:

I use a round cooler with a Phils false bottom - very effective.

I've read that the round 5 gal and 10 gal coolers give you a close to ideal grain bed depth. Some rectangular coolers result in a very shallow grain bed especially when doing smaller batches.

Cheers!
Brad

Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it.

Will a 5 gallon round cooler work? They had one on sale at Target the other day and I almost bought it, but I was worried it wasn't big enough to do the mash. I plan on doing only 5 gallon batches, not 10 gallon. Should I just get the 10 gallon?

5 gallon should be enough for 5 gallon batches up to 1.060 if you batch sparge, higher if you fly. If you get a 10 gallon, it's good for any gravity 5 gallon batch and some 10 gallon batches. Obviously, 10 is more flexible with little compromise other than price.

Is there ever an issue with too much head space in the 10 gallon cooler? Will the 5 gallon retain heat better simply because there is less open space inside?

I went right into a round with a FB and fly sparging...no problems. If that's what you want to do eventually, I'd say just do it.

Brew Dude said:

Is there ever an issue with too much head space in the 10 gallon cooler? Will the 5 gallon retain heat better simply because there is less open space inside?

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Get the 10!!! Just pre heat the cooler and you won't have any problems. I just did a 5gal 1.060 and didn't loose a degree over the hour. My 14lbs of grain and 1.25q/lb thickness took up 6 gallons of space.

I agree with the advice being given here. Go with the larger cooler -- so many people chime in with regrets that they only got a 5 gal cooler, only to spend more to upgrade to a larger cooler later.

In fact, I would suggest that you would be better off spending your money on a large cooler with a cheap braid, rather than spending the same amount of money on a smaller cooler with a fancy false bottom, even if it means batch sparging instead of fly sparging. And don't let efficiency concerns factor in to your decision -- fly sparging does not universally result in higher efficiency, and even under ideal conditions the gains from fly sparging can be compensated with a few extra ounces of grain in a batch sparge. Instead, focus on the differences in process between a fly sparge and batch sparge rig. Each has their pros and cons, and you need to decide which METHOD seems to suit your brewing style better.

FlyGuy said:

I agree with the advice being given here. Go with the larger cooler -- so many people chime in with regrets that they only got a 5 gal cooler, only to spend more to upgrade to a larger cooler later.

In fact, I would suggest that you would be better off spending your money on a large cooler with a cheap braid, rather than spending the same amount of money on a smaller cooler with a fancy false bottom, even if it means batch sparging instead of fly sparging. And don't let efficiency concerns factor in to your decision -- fly sparging does not universally result in higher efficiency, and even under ideal conditions the gains from fly sparging can be compensated with a few extra ounces of grain in a batch sparge. Instead, focus on the differences in process between a fly sparge and batch sparge rig. Each has their pros and cons, and you need to decide which METHOD seems to suit your brewing style better.

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^^^^Super duper advice.

Consistancy is the real goal, not efficiency. $1 worth of grains makes up for awful efficiency, but if you cannot get a consistant system working, you never quite know what you are going to get as an end result.

The larger cooler, with the braid is probably the best bet, and batch sparge. It is the cheapest, easiest and quickest method. And once you've used your system a few times, your efficiency will not be less than fly sparging. Even if it is, if you know you are going to get 80% plus or minus. You know what to plan for.

My 2 cent. good luck.

Thanks for all the advice. I think I'm gonna go with a 10 gallon round cooler with a steel braid.

Anyone have a list of parts that I will need to make the conversion? I appreciate the help.

Yep, check the link in my sig.

The 10 gal round coolers are very nice, but they are pricey. The nice thing, though, is that if you ever want to switch to fly sparging, then all you have to do is throw in a false bottom and away you go.

Bobby_M said:

88-94% efficiency by batch sparging here. Cheapest cooler you can find, SS braid.

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+1.

80% efficiency batch sparging.

FlyGuy said:

Yep, check the link in my sig.

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So can I just print out that list and bring it to Home Depot? I wouldn't know what to go in and ask for. I won't get any strange looks? Are those pretty standard and accessible parts?

I really dont care about how high or low my efficiency is right now. I would love to just be more consistent. Sigh.
Ok Im over it.

Brew Dude said:

So can I just print out that list and bring it to Home Depot? I wouldn't know what to go in and ask for. I won't get any strange looks? Are those pretty standard and accessible parts?

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Yep. The only item that is tough to find is the stainless steel washer. At my local Home Depot, they are in the specialty washer section and NOT with the regular washers.

Expect strange looks, though, if you actually tell the clerks what you are building. Trust me, you get even STRANGER looks if you bring your whole cooler in and start trying to stuff parts inside to see if they fit!

I have never used a rectangular cooler but I love the hell out of my round 10 gal. The biggest beer I have made was a 10 gallon batch at 1.070 but I got 82% efficiency and it held my mash temp to the degree for the 60 min mash.

How come on most of these false bottoms the exit pipe is in the middle somewhere and not on the ends?