American Pale Ale Da Yooper's House Pale Ale

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Yooper said:
5 pounds pale malt (I used marris otter)
3 pounds vienna malt
2 pounds Munich malt
1/2 pound crystal 20L
1/2 pound crystal 60L

1 ounce Cascade 60 minutes
.75 ounce cascade 30 minutes
1 ounce Cascade 10 minutes
1/2 ounce cascade 5 minutes
1/2 ounce cascade flameout

1 ounce cascade (dryhop)

I used homegrown cascade for the late hopping additions, so had to guestimate the final IBUs, but used commercial pellet hops for the bittering additions (8% AAU).

Mashed at 154. Fermented at low ale temps (62) for two weeks, then dryhopped for a week.

This beer is my attempt at Lakefront Brewery's Cream City Pale Ale. I don't know if it's close- we don't have any to compare it to! But i was going for a slightly bitter, malt forward, APA. It worked! This beer is balanced, but definitely an APA. It's our new "house beer".

What yeast did you use ? If not Wyeast then what would you use as Wyeast ? How long did you mash at 154? 45/60/75 mins ? What batch size was it ? I'm shooting for a 6.08 gallon batch...

What happens if I don't dry hop ?

I chose american pale ale in the style guide in BEer Smith is that ok ??
 
What yeast did you use ? If not Wyeast then what would you use as Wyeast ? How long did you mash at 154? 45/60/75 mins ? What batch size was it ? I'm shooting for a 6.08 gallon batch...

What happens if I don't dry hop ?

I chose american pale ale in the style guide in BEer Smith is that ok ??

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: S-05
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.25

Original Gravity: 1.058
Final Gravity: 1.010
IBU: 43.6
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 12
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 14 at 62 degrees
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): dryhopping

I use S05, dry yeast. But you could use Wyeast 1056, White Labs 001, and several other "clean" yeast strains as well.

I mash for an hour.

If you want, I'll be home in an hour or so and if you PM me your email address, I can email you the actual Beersmith file (or you can download it on the first page of this thread under the recipe header).
 
I just wanted to toss a shout out to Yooper for this recipe.

My wife absolutely loves it (I think it's pretty tasty, too ;))

Regardless of what other beers I rotate through my keezer, I always try to have this on tap.

Man, it's good!:rockin:
 
Thanks yooper I am realy exited to try your recipie out, you look like an experienced brewer, always stressful to try a recipie from a forum, not all brewers post good stuff and then you have 5 gallons of not so good beer to drink :)
 
What if I don't mash out ?? My mash tun 5 gallons igloo cooler is too small :(

What if I don't dry hop, will that change a lot ?
 
What if I don't mash out ?? My mash tun 5 gallons igloo cooler is too small :(

What if I don't dry hop, will that change a lot ?

You should be able to fit this in your tun, might need to scale the recipe back.

Appears that you have Beersmith. Do you have your equipment set up in there? It should tell you how much volume you need for the recipe.

I used this recipe as the base and made it bigger, and I needed 5.88 gal. I have a 10 gallon tun.

You could probably do it, but it will be tight I think. I would check your mash profile on beersmith for an idea.

I wouldn't worry about a mash out though. You don't need it if you mash with enough water. It will be fluid enough.. Drain it, and then sparge. Split whatever you need for sparge into two infusions and be done with it.

If you don't want to dry hop, thats just personal preference. I personally think that ALL Pales and IPA's need dry hop to be to style. You won't quite have the aroma, or flavor you would get if you don't dry hop, but that might be something you personally like.

I wouldn't skip the dry hop, but it's not going to ruin the beer, IMO.. Just won't be as rounded as I think it could be.
 
FATC1TY said:
You should be able to fit this in your tun, might need to scale the recipe back.

Appears that you have Beersmith. Do you have your equipment set up in there? It should tell you how much volume you need for the recipe.

I used this recipe as the base and made it bigger, and I needed 5.88 gal. I have a 10 gallon tun.

You could probably do it, but it will be tight I think. I would check your mash profile on beersmith for an idea.

I wouldn't worry about a mash out though. You don't need it if you mash with enough water. It will be fluid enough.. Drain it, and then sparge. Split whatever you need for sparge into two infusions and be done with it.

If you don't want to dry hop, thats just personal preference. I personally think that ALL Pales and IPA's need dry hop to be to style. You won't quite have the aroma, or flavor you would get if you don't dry hop, but that might be something you personally like.

I wouldn't skip the dry hop, but it's not going to ruin the beer, IMO.. Just won't be as rounded as I think it could be.

+1 to both pieces of advice.

The main reason for a mash out is to get your grain bed out of the temp range at which the enzymes are active so starch to sugar conversion stops. Run the numbers on your gear. My 10 gal cooler completely swallows this recipe. I can't imagine with careful measurements that you'd have trouble doing a mash out with this in a 5 gal cooler.

One step you could do with a batch sparge is to do both of your runnings quickly and get your wort on the burner as soon as you collect you first running. Batch spargers should shoot for that anyway, although I admit I often either forget or intentionally skip doing this.

As for dry hopping, why would you skip it? Part of the appeal of this style is putting the glass to your face and getting a nose full of your favorite hop aroma. You can dry hop in primary or secondary and if done properly, the additional risk of oxidation or infection is minimal. Here's what I do. I usually go to secondary when dry hopping but this works for either.

Spray a small, clean plate with a no rinse sanitizer like star san
In a mesh hop bag, tie 1 or 2 clean marbles in one of the corners
Place the hop bag with marbles in a sauce pan of boiling water. Boil for 5 min
Remove the bag with kitchen tongs and place on the sanitized plate
Hops into the bag. Tie off the open end, leaving enough space so the pellets move around loosely in the bag. My lhbs sells mostly pellets so I do about 1 oz per bag
Once hops are ready stuff the bag into your primary or sanitized secondary
Leave hops in beer for about a week (I usually don't exceed 1 days)
Package, carb and enjoy
 
How do I get the hop bag out ? Do I do a dry hop addition 1 week before kegging to me sure that I don't have to take them out of my glass carcoy ?
 
How do I get the hop bag out ? Do I do a dry hop addition 1 week before kegging to me sure that I don't have to take them out of my glass carcoy ?

If you want to bag them, you leave them in there for the week, empty the carboy into bottling bucket or keg, and then fish the bag out while it's empty.

I just toss them in the carboy loose. They'll float for a while, and then sink. If they don't sink I cold crash it, or I'll put a mesh bag over the end of my auto siphon, and rack it that way to keep any junk suspended in there out.

Or, if you are kegging, the easy way is to keg the beer from primary, then take your sanitized hop bag, and put the hops in the bag, and tie the bag up in the keg, and then rack the beer into the keg on the hops.

If you don't want them in there the whole time, you can fish them out pretty easily, or suspend them with a SS hose clamp from the PRV body on the lid.
 
Well.... Checked the gravity on mine.. In 6 days, went from 1.071 to 1.013... Krausen has dropped today, and it actually taste really good. Has a nice bready malt background to highlight the hops. Nice and bitter, with a nice aroma even without being dry hopped yet.

I like it.. Has a nice bite to it, alcohol is present slightly, but at 7.6% I figure I could detect it slightly.
 
11 days in from our brew (10 days since activity started up). Tastes good, nice hop aroma. We are currently at 1.028 (50% attenuation). We'll let it sit for a while longer. On Sunday, I'll dry hop and then rack to kegs on the following Friday where it will sit until the following Sunday as we are off to Cambodia on holiday for 9 days.
Thanks Yooper!:mug:
 
I did forget to compensate my refractometer reading for the alcohol content. It looks like we are at 1.0096, not 1.028.
The beer needs to clean up a bit, and then we will dry hop it.
Looking forward to it!
 
I did forget to compensate my refractometer reading for the alcohol content. It looks like we are at 1.0096, not 1.028.
The beer needs to clean up a bit, and then we will dry hop it.
Looking forward to it!

That SG reading isn't correct, either. It's time to break out the hydrometer for an actual FG. Refractometers are great prefermentation, but useless for FG readings, even with compensation software. The FG, if it was at 1.0096, would make a terrible beer.
 
That SG reading isn't correct, either. It's time to break out the hydrometer for an actual FG. Refractometers are great prefermentation, but useless for FG readings, even with compensation software. The FG, if it was at 1.0096, would make a terrible beer.

My hydrometer is gone! And we don't have local homebrew shops over here! I have another one on the way, but I must rely on the refractometer for now.
I thought the target FG was 1.010...1.0096 rounded up is 1.010.
It tasted good last night!
Thanks, Yooper.
 
My hydrometer is gone! And we don't have local homebrew shops over here! I have another one on the way, but I must rely on the refractometer for now.
I thought the target FG was 1.010...1.0096 rounded up is 1.010.
It tasted good last night!
Thanks, Yooper.

Ah, I saw an extra 0. So carry on..............:cross:
 
Pulled a sample off the keg (yes, I know it is early) so far it is very nice! Still a bit green tasting, but I can see this being a great session ale. Thanks for the inspiration Yooper. I think the 1272 worked really well, but I don't have a comparison to the 05 to know if it is significantly different. Either way, another tasty beer in the fridge.

Funny thing is the only full kegs I have right now are filled with your recipes, Fizzy Yellow in one and the Haus ale coming on line now.
 
I chucked in 2oz of Neslon Sauvin hops today...there is still a somewhat thick layer of krausen on top, so hopefully the hops will work their way down into the beer. (we are 13 days into the fermentation process).
 
Just ordered the ingredients for this and hope to brew it in the next couple of weeks. That is, after I brew a double batch of Yoopers oatmeal stout! That stuff is super tummy!
 
I'll go back to say this is a great base recipe. It's been 2 weeks since I brewed it, mine is still in primary. Decided to leave it longer, because I'm lazy, and because I did make this bigger, somewhere near 7.5-8%.

Smells great still, and I'll be racking to keg this week if I get time before vacation. Bottling two batches tonight or tomorrow, so I'll have 2 kegs empty for some goodies!

Oh, and a comment on the krausen.. Mine was wild... it would rise and fall, and stayed around for a long time.. Longer than I expected.. then one day, I walked in and it was completely gone, and just a few bubbles on top. Mines cleared up really nice, so I'm thinking I might just put it in the keg from the primary, and dry hop in there with some whole leaf.
 
Brewed this as my very first all grain about a month ago, couldn't wait any longer to taste one (was in bottle only for a week). This turned out AMAZING! I think my next brew will be another batch of this so I don't run out.
 
Brewed this up today. Needed a good pale ale recipe to try out the Falconers Flight hops I had and decided on yours because I always seem to enjoy your recipes - always a nice balance of maltiness & bitterness! I used Magnum for the bittering addition and Falconers Flight for the rest of the additions. I'm using PacMan for my yeast because it's what I had and I really like it. Missed my OG by a point, but oh well, no big deal! The sample I pulled for the gravity reading smelled amazing...think I'm going to like these hops!
 
You'll love it with the FF hops. I did this beer as an IPA with all FF in the last 25 min (hop bursted to about 70 IBU). Bumped it to 1.068 and used 2 packs of US05. but i kept all the grains in the same ratio.

Mashed a little high so it did not dry out quite as much as I wanted. Even so, this one was a huge hit with my dad and cousin. Had to beat them with a stick so I could get some of it.

I'm with you. I have yet to try a Yooper recipe that is not just out of this world. Her FYB is a hit with my BMC friends.
 
Hi all,

I'm pretty new to brewing beer. I live in a NYC apartment, so I'm limited to 3 gallon batches in my small space. There are only a few 3 gallon recipes out there, and I am forced to convert, and with as little experience as I have, it's always a bit of a gamble. I don't have the most efficient setup so I usually have to add more grain than I would in a straight conversion. I order everything by mail so I try to round things to lbs unless I know I can use the leftovers in my next batch. Given that, I made a few changes to the recipe for my circumstances. I'll post in a few weeks to let you all know how it turns out. I'm really excited to try this!

3.6 pounds pale malt
2 pounds Vienna malt
1.5 pounds Munich malt
1 pound crystal 15L
.6 ounce Cascade 60 minutes
.5 ounce cascade 30 minutes
.6 ounce Cascade 10 minutes
.3 ounce cascade 5 minutes
.3 ounce cascade flameout
.6 ounce cascade (dryhop)
 
Yooper - we brewed 10gal back in September and it came out great! Thanks for sharing the recipe.

I've scrolled through these pages looking for a clonish BIAB recipe for this beer as I am heading home for 3 weeks over Christmas and I want to brew this with a buddy of mine. Since he only does extract and BIAB, I need to sort out how to get a smilarish recipe.
I saw, way, way back on this thread a PM recipe, but I am unsure if that grain bill is usable as BIAB as I have never brewed extract or BIAB and I am unsure of the conversion aspect of BIAB:

4.39 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 48.97 %
1.49 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 16.62 %
1.45 lb Munich Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 16.24 %
0.90 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 10.04 %
0.36 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 4.06 %
0.36 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 4.06 %

Does anyone want to jump in and let me know how I can go about getting a similar malt profile in a BIA recipe?
We have a bunch of homegrown cascade hops that we are going to use. And I plan on using White Labs 008 (East Coast Ale) strain on this version as we'll be brewing on the East Coast (NJ Shore) while using East Coast grown hops. And I reckon we might just call it FUSandy.

Thanks in advance.
 
For biab you use the same grain bill, you just mash in a bag instead. If he can't mash that amount of grain, then you would need to go partial mash.
 
For biab you use the same grain bill, you just mash in a bag instead. If he can't mash that amount of grain, then you would need to go partial mash.

Yes, that's basically all there is to it. A BIAB will have different volumes, perhaps, if he's doing no-sparge or something like that, but overall the recipe is the same. If he can only mash a portion of the fermentables, then using DME for the pale malt (in a 1 pound = .6 pound DME ratio) would work great.
 
Moved a keg today and the tape on it said Yoopers House Ale. I was so exited, I thought i must have brewed ten gallons instead of 5. As my first keg of Yooper Ale kicked early. Turns out I just forgot to change the tape when I racked a brown ale into the keg. Nothing wrong with the brown, but I really was in the mood for 5 bonus gallons. Next time I'll make ten.
 
I made this one a few weeks ago and have had it on tap now for about a week. Very nice beer with great color. I went the traditional route and went all Cascade. Hit all the numbers exactly. Used WLP007 (dry English ale).

I'm wondering if anyone has ever put this into a BJCP comp in the APA category? It is a very malty beer in terms of malt flavor (not sweetness) - bready, nutty. I used MO and Munich and Vienna as listed in the first post. I like the flavors and it is a highly drinkable beer, but the malt flavors almost fit more in the English pale ale category (despite the obvious use of American hops). So I was just curious if anyone had ever sent this to a competition as an APA and the results.
 
I made this one a few weeks ago and have had it on tap now for about a week. Very nice beer with great color. I went the traditional route and went all Cascade. Hit all the numbers exactly. Used WLP007 (dry English ale).

I'm wondering if anyone has ever put this into a BJCP comp in the APA category? It is a very malty beer in terms of malt flavor (not sweetness) - bready, nutty. I used MO and Munich and Vienna as listed in the first post. I like the flavors and it is a highly drinkable beer, but the malt flavors almost fit more in the English pale ale category (despite the obvious use of American hops). So I was just curious if anyone had ever sent this to a competition as an APA and the results.

I took this as a base, and ramped it up a bit. Plan to rebrew it as it was a fan favorite around my parts with my friends and co workers.. I plan to enter it into the IPA category, simply because of where I took it.

I'd suspect you'd be fine in the APA category if you hop it well enough to round off the malt a bit. Or mash low low low.
 
Wow,7 months bottled and this is still great, used the Ivanhoe hops. I think I may make this again my next batch using all Columbus-this time. May try that new Bry-97 if avalible also.
 
Wow,7 months bottled and this is still great,use the Ivanhoe hops. I think I may make this again my next batch using all Columbus-this time. May try that new Bry-97 if avalible also.


The BRY97 yeast is pretty good, but be warned, it takes a while to get going, finishes fast once it starts, and takes a bit longer to clear. Leave a bit of a yeasty-ish finish on the nose of the beer if it's not dry hopped heavy.
 
The BRY97 yeast is pretty good, but be warned, it takes a while to get going, finishes fast once it starts, and takes a bit longer to clear. Leave a bit of a yeasty-ish finish on the nose of the beer if it's not dry hopped heavy.

Yeah,was reading some negative responses about this,but its worth a try to me,been hearing about the lag time,if my lhbs doesnt have it,guess I will try wlp001 liquid,which I havent ever tried yet.Ill probably dry hop it a bit more anyway,only because I can.
 
Bottled my batch up today, gravity sample was tasty and the Falconers Flight hops I used smelled amazing...can't wait for these to carb up!
 
I'm wondering if anyone has ever put this into a BJCP comp in the APA category?

I've entered a nearly identical version (no vienna - all two row instead of vienna) and received 3 honorable mentions. (38, 38.5, and 39). All 3 of the comps had a huge amount of entries too.
 
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