Simple eHERMS, following PJ's diagram w/ only 1 PID.

Update?

Well its been completed for several months, however being that everything is located an hour away I've only brewed two 11gal batches. If I did it all over again, I would mount the pump in a separate enclosure. It's nice that I can just pick it up and go, but I get worried when changing camlocks that liquid will get in. However just over paranoid because there has not been any issues.

As for the diagram and only using 1 PID, it works flawlessly! If your on a budget and want clean and simple you can't go wrong.

I have been scouring the forums for some help on a set up like this...

First off, I am definitely no electrician but my father has some experience and we are both pretty handy.

I've got a couple of questions. I found this diagram from P-J on the forums, is there any way someone could show me how I would wire in a key switch into this. I do not want one of the kids to accidentally turn it on.

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a17c-SYL-2352-5500w.jpg

Another quick question, I found this on eBay and was thinking that I could maybe monitor the MT without having to purchase another PID but still have an electrical display...but again I'm no electrician and I don't want to ruin any of the hardware that I am purchasing.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

P-J all of your diagrams are outstanding, I know I am learning a lot from the all and I really appreciate all the help you've given us (even if yo didn't know it!!)

mizzourah said:

I have been scouring the forums for some help on a set up like this...

First off, I am definitely no electrician but my father has some experience and we are both pretty handy.

I've got a couple of questions. I found this diagram from P-J on the forums, is there any way someone could show me how I would wire in a key switch into this. I do not want one of the kids to accidentally turn it on.

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a17c-SYL-2352-5500w.jpg

Another quick question, I found this on eBay and was thinking that I could maybe monitor the MT without having to purchase another PID but still have an electrical display...but again I'm no electrician and I don't want to ruin any of the hardware that I am purchasing.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

P-J all of your diagrams are outstanding, I know I am learning a lot from the all and I really appreciate all the help you've given us (even if yo didn't know it!!)

Click to expand...

Installing a key switch will require the addition of a contactor as the switch cannot carry the full current load.

The temperature module certainly can be used. Keep in mind that it requires a 24V DC power source. You also need to secure another RTD temperature probe to use it.

Squeeky and PJ,

So just to confirm, can you use the switches from the 4500W diagram with the 5500W one?

I'm very close to starting my build.

Yeppers, brewed a Dale's Pale Ale over the weekend. It was nice to be brewing again! The switch will handle the 30A just fine. One thing you want to ensure though is a good solid connection. Soldering would be your best route. I went with ratcheting crimper, if I did it all over again I would solder things directly.

Another thing I would change, is to buy a second RTD. Even in manual mode the PID requires a probe connection. During boil I will typically clean my HLT and MT, which having the probe connected can be an issue.

This is great!! I think that I am going to build mine off of this with the two pumps!

Had one questions could I put the RDT in the heat exchanger coil return line? or is it better to monitor the MLT with it own thermometer? So i will know what the HLt temp is at?

JoshAZ said:

This is great!! I think that I am going to build mine off of this with the two pumps!

Had one questions could I put the RDT in the heat exchanger coil return line? or is it better to monitor the MLT with it own thermometer? So i will know what the HLt temp is at?

Click to expand...

I'd suggest placing it in the HLT. The same temp of the HLT will be transferred to the HERMS coil as long as the HLT water is kept in motion.
Bottom line - '0' difference in temp. You will have a degree (or 2) difference due to line loss between the HLT and the MASH.

(Unless I'm totally misunderstanding your question..)

IMHO... Sorry...

I was just thinking it would be easier to put it in the line vs a hole in the kettle.

I am sure I will have questions as I start to order and build.

Thanks P-J

Agree with PJ, in order to keep costs down I recommend an air pump to keep an even temp in the hlt. It's a lot cheaper then another pump or motor.

Sorry to bring this post back to life but I was thinking of building something along like this.

For now I only want to have the hlt on the pid with the option of expanding in the future. I would be starting from a 4 prong dryer outlet for the power. Looks like I will need a spa 30a breaker box. Can I get away with one pid, one ssr with Heat sink, and a one relay or will I need a contactor?

Also I will only be using one pump for now so there's that as well.

Thanks

Andy

Andy,
You can use one pump, just make it a two tiered setup. I use gravity to drain the hot water out of the HLT but use the pump to recirculate the wort through the coil. You set it up so that both the boil kettle and mash tun can get pumped through the HERMS coil (use a diverter valve to select the source) and just put a diverter valve on the outlet so you have the choice of sending the outflow back into the mashtun (for recirculating) or into the boil kettle (for lautering or chilling). I use the HERMS coil as a sort of reverse immersion chiller by filling the HLT with ice water and pumping the wort through the HERMS coil. You need to put a lot of thought into the plumbing. While two pumps is great, I'm happy with a single pump setup, it makes for less to clean.

As to the contactor, I used it (two actually). It's a sort of safety device. You switch it on and off using a low current controlled by a switch. It, in turn, turns on and off the dangerous amount of current flowing to the element. By using a contactor you don't have huge amounts of electricity flowing through the switch you'll be touching and this is just another layer of safety protection between you and the electricity.

As an alternative, you can just get a switch rated for the sort of wattage you'll be sending to the element. These aren't that cheap so you don't save a whole lot by going that route and it's a bit less safe. Actually, though, I suppose you could just do away with a switch for the element entirely and use the pid to control the element. I'd definitely have an e-stop with this setup though so that you have a way to shut the system down in a hurry.

I may get some flack for this but I don't have an e-stop on my setup. My spa panel is literally right next to the rig and I would (but never have) use the breaker to disable everything if a brew session went south.

Also if i have one of these already in my breaker box do i need the spa breaker box?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202307131&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202307131&ci_kw={keyword}&kwd={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-202307131&ci_gpa=pla#.UMjCGLZVoeg

Thanks,

Kayakr1988 said:

Also if i have one of these already in my breaker box do i need the spa breaker box?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202307131&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202307131&ci_kw={keyword}&kwd={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-202307131&ci_gpa=pla#.UMjCGLZVoeg

Thanks,

Click to expand...

No, you don't need a spa panel then. It's usually cheaper to buy the spa panel which comes with a gfci breaker than it is to just buy the gfci breaker itself. I know, strange.

I love this design! I know it has been a while but I am dying to know if you have a parts list for this Squeeky? Also, are you still brewing on it and if your still satisfied with it. I'm planning my build and budget is huge for me and this looks like the ticket.

Thanks, Nice work!

Sorry I haven't been active in the forums for awhile. New job and new house, well closing at the end of the month. The last time a brewed over 6 months ago I still used this setup. Been working on automated brewtroller but this will be my fall back system as it works great, and simple.

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