Heatstick problem...

Hey guys,

I've got an issue with my heatstick and was wondering if anyone might have an idea what's happening.

I built a 1500 Watt heatstick with the instructions from this website: http://www.3d0g.net/brewing/heatstick

I brewed with it wonderfully for about a total of 6-8 hours before it popped my GFCI outlet. I discovered that some water had gotten inside and I dried it out over the next several days. I sealed it even more.

Now, when I try to use it this happens: It works for about 15 minutes then pops the GFCI outlet. I reset the outlet, plug in the heatstick, and it works for about 1-2 minutes before popping again. After resetting, it works for 1-2 minutes again.

If you need more info, I'd more than happy to share it.

Water is slowly leaking in, trust me.

I agree that it's probably a leak. I've found that most of the online instructions for building heatsticks are mediocre at best. This is especially true for ones that instruct you to rely on gravity to drip jbweld down to the element to seal off the wires.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/heatstick-awesome-142803/

On pg. 28 i posted my method for getting a good seal. It worked 100% on my heatstick and ones i've built for friends. I've modified it a bit from that but it's essentially the same principal: ensure a good seal before you completely assemble the heatstick. Use DAP 08641 (i think) to seal everything up when you put it together...jb weld doesn't like to adhere to the chrome drainpipe very well.

I had no idea there was so much debate on how to do this!

I'm glad I posted this before I assembled my second heatstick. I was about to start JB Welding a 2000W heatstick that has a 90 deg bend at the top and bottom. I will now rethink the way I'm going to assemble it.

For my existing 1500W element should I try to add more waterproofing to the outside? It's pretty solidly put together so trying to take it apart may end up being a demolition.

Any hints about either heatstick would be very much appreciated!

Thanks guys!

For the 90 degree, there's really no other option (IMO) other than to seal the element prior to assembly. I think the method i posted is a good option. It may take a little extra work, but it ensures a good seal. On my heatstick there is no jb weld or sealant visible on the outside. I don't think there's really any way to ban-aid these things. It needs to done correctly from the beginning. Unfortunately i learned the hard way and had to tear down my first heatstick completely.

If you have any questions on "my" method, feel free to PM me. Not saying it's the best, but it has worked well for me.

Agree, I tried the drip down the pipe method with thinned J-B Weld. It soon tripped the GFCI. I then found your description of potting the element first. Good so far on 4 batches.

I made two. Both by dripping jb weld down the pipe. The one with the j bend popped after about 6-7 months. The other one is still working.

I also used the tape around the element end and pour jb weld in method. This allowed water in the pipe so redid it with the pour into pipe method.

I'm curious about the DAP 08641 sealant. It says it's "safe" for "incidental" food contact. Makes me think an hour long submersed boil isn't so "incidental."

Or am I just being paranoid?

I need to find the thread, but one method I'd like to try is to make an all copper version. This way it will be sealed. Use some silicone tape at the top so it's not overly hot. I'm mounting an element in my keggle for now. But when my heat stick goes I might be moving to an all copper heat stick.

HERE'S THE THREAD on the copper heat stick.

Dgonza9 said:

I made two. Both by dripping jb weld down the pipe. The one with the j bend popped after about 6-7 months. The other one is still working.

I also used the tape around the element end and pour jb weld in method. This allowed water in the pipe so redid it with the pour into pipe method.

I'm curious about the DAP 08641 sealant. It says it's "safe" for "incidental" food contact. Makes me think an hour long submersed boil isn't so "incidental."

Or am I just being paranoid?

I need to find the thread, but one method I'd like to try is to make an all copper version. This way it will be sealed. Use some silicone tape at the top so it's not overly hot. I'm mounting an element in my keggle for now. But when my heat stick goes I might be moving to an all copper heat stick.

HERE'S THE THREAD on the copper heat stick.

Click to expand...

The copper design looks nice.

As far as the DAP sealant, people go WAY overboard on applying this stuff. Piling silicone on the outside of the heatstick does very little as far as sealing off the element. On mine there is no JB weld or silicone visible on the outside of the heatstick.

Just using tape around the base of the element isn't a good option IMO. It seals of the wiring, but doesn't seal off the element to the pipe (hence why you had water coming in the pipe). A 1" pvc coupling provides not only a place to pour the JB weld into, but it fits VERY tightly into the end of the drainpipe. I smear some of the silicone in the end up of drainpipe first, then shove the element/pvc coupler in. Then follow that up with a chrome reducer nut and the high temp rubber o-ring that comes with the heating element.

You have to trim off a section of the pvc coupling after the JB weld cures using a dremel because the flare at the end of the drain pipe only goes about 2" before it necks down. This part is a little hard to explain but i can take pictures since i'm building another heatstick now.