my brew rig build

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i found my cut list;

long hoz
4-58''

4 corner posts
4-25''

cross members
7-18''

4 vert. posts under burners
4-19''


outside frame size;


62x22x25tall without casters
 
Nick, where did you finally end up as far as specs on jetting the orifices on the burners for NG?


on the boil kettle and hlt i used a 5/32'' drill bit and that gave me 87,000 btu's

the mash i think i'm at 39,000 btu's i seems to work well, i don't over shoot my temp but 1 degree with the love controller.

i tried to boil with the burner orificed at 39,000 btu's and it took over an hour to go from 168 to boil, now it's about half the time
 
I still can't get over this build... Just curious if you think your pot supports are acting as heatsinks...

i don't think they do, i was worried about the power coat burning off the whole support but it has not been bad. when i picked the frame up from the powder coater the guy said the powder coat would break down at 350 degrees but it has held up very well i think

pics of burners after about 6 hours of use after washing and the first brew day


burners_001.JPG


boil burner

burners002.JPG


burners_003.JPG



how are your plans coming along

like to see them
 
I still can't get over this build... Just curious if you think your pot supports are acting as heatsinks...

There's only one way to find out. Pull one of the hurricane's drilled to 5/32nd and put it in a regular stand and do controlled boil comparison with equal amounts of water.

I assume Tony's concern has to do with the amount of steel perpendicular to the bottom of the kettle.
 
There's only one way to find out. Pull one of the hurricane's drilled to 5/32nd and put it in a regular stand and do controlled boil comparison with equal amounts of water.

I assume Tony's concern has to do with the amount of steel perpendicular to the bottom of the kettle.

i sorry, what steel is perpendicular to the bottom of the kettle.

I'm not being a smart a$$ just wondering the burner supports or the 2x2 rails
 
The burner supports are rather long. I assume that's what the kettle sits on and presumably could draw heat off the bottom of the kettle.

The 2x2 steel frame does not come in contact with the bottom of the kettle. The burner supports are 3/32" (roughtly) bent steel brackets welded to the 2x2 steel frame. If you look at the pic below, you will see the contact area between the rolled rim of the kettle and the bracket is about 3/32 x 3/32 square inches times 8 (the rim only contacts the brackets in 8 locations)

love_004.JPG
[/QUOTE]

The possibility of a "heat sink" property in this configuration is about as small as possible if any at all.
 
I have an update on the brew rig. i was having problems with the burners lighting when i had the gas turned done more than half way, my father came up with this idea. it works great, the sheetmetal disk collects gas under it and then it catches any the whole burner lights.

burner_mod_001.JPG


burner_mod_002.JPG


made it out of a piece of 26 gauge sheet metal, cheap fix!
 
That rig if ever custom or massed produced would put Sabco's BrewMagic out of business. You've already heard it before but that's mighty fine.
 
Thank you, i had a blast building it, i kinda wish it wasn't done i had so much fun.
I wouldn't be afraid if you wanted to come here and help me build mine. I just went into the backyard and my father's old 10' brake is pretty corroded, don't think I'd be able to use it even for that console work.
 
Nick, I have been following your build my friend. I am friggin MOST impressed! This is quite a machine you have built!!!
 
Had a helluva brew day this weekend. Nicksteck brought his rig over... nothing new there... but get this... he brought it over in a brand new BOX Truck with a Tommy Gate automatic lift. The only bar being raised is the EAC bar. I don't know if I'll ever catch up now.
 
Hey Nick-

What did you plumb your gas with? Is that aluminum tubing with brass compression fittings?

Also, on the first page you were talking about a drip leg or something for the gas system. What is that?
 
Hey Nick-

What did you plumb your gas with? Is that aluminum tubing with brass compression fittings?

Also, on the first page you were talking about a drip leg or something for the gas system. What is that?

The line looks like Stainless Brake line to me. At least that is what I have planned on using.

A drip leg would be a short leg off of a Tee going down to collect any debris inside the gas line so that it don't get into the gas valve. Usually about 6 inches long and capped off.
 
The line looks like Stainless Brake line to me. At least that is what I have planned on using.

A drip leg would be a short leg off of a Tee going down to collect any debris inside the gas line so that it don't get into the gas valve. Usually about 6 inches long and capped off.

So if it is stainless how do you get the really nice bends? Is there a tool for that or is he just wicked good with a spring bender?
 
Yes they sell Tubing Benders. Hardware store, Auto Parts, or Snap On. I have never had good luck with the spring benders, although others have. You would also need a flareing tool set. Sold in same places. The bending tool has sides that come up over the sides of the tube and a radius that matches the tube size so that the tube bends without kinking.

Another way I've also not had good luck with, but may be worth a try. Plug the end, fill with sand, plug other end, bend. The sand is supposed to keep the tube from kinking. Stainless tube of this size will be hard to bend without a tool I'd guess.
 
So just a standard bender is what he used you think? I am familiar with tube benders but thought he must have had some special tool to make them look so nice. My skills are not nearly what his are... maybe with a bit of practice.

The trick to the sand thing is to use heat on the tubing. Blow torch works well. I have only used this for tubing sizes I don't have a bender for.
 
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