Jsslack said:
It's not wrong, but that's not the way everyone does it. A lot of people whirlpool, let it settle, and siphon into the fermentor. I pour through a paint strainer bag.
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It's not wrong, but that's not the way everyone does it. A lot of people whirlpool, let it settle, and siphon into the fermentor. I pour through a paint strainer bag.
Calichusetts
Well-Known Member
I'm back! I usually take the summer off from the forum...concentrate on having fun, playing with the little one, drinking great beer (my own, other homebrewers, and craft) and other things. Didn't brew too much this summer. I did a few IPAs, a honey saison, and a monster 15% barleywine. I am moving up to 2.5 gallons by the new year as well. Still love this thread though.
Welcome back. Hmm, Maybe I should do a barley wine. I've been having a tough time finding a beer I really enjoy.
shoreman
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Jsslack said:
It's totally fine to do it it that way - with my bigger batches I'm able to just pour into the fermenter and not disturb the cold break too much.
I've seen the difference and it's mostly just clarity but your beer will clear much quicker if you leave the cold break behind.
Bottling our IPA tomorrow. Going to make Blue Moon clone that I found on here for my mother-in-law's wedding. Gonna brew a second batch for us of course. I already have brewing sessions planned for every other week through November at the moment. I need more fermenting jugs...
Calichusetts
Well-Known Member
You should go try a few...there are so many amazing barleywines out there but you should try some before you do it. I've brewed four this year. The last one I aged on bourbon oak.
Bottled our IPA tonight. Now I know why so many of you use auto-siphons.... That was not terribly fun; although by the end of it we had a good system going. We were able to get 10 bottles out of the batch. It smelled like an IPA, so that's good!
Can i use BIAB with 1 gallon brews?
I calculated around 1.6-1.8 gallon of water (mash+sparge water) for most of my 1 gallon recipes, is that around the right value?
(well i looked up 5 gallon recipes, divided everything by 5 and put some of those values into this calculator to find out how much water i need
http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php
)
(btw i only have brewed once, it was an all grain brew, i have never measured the same temperatures in different areas of the mash despite stirring, i hope BIAB can make it easier by almost doubling the amount of mash water and maybe make stirring and heat distribution better)
I calculated around 1.6-1.8 gallon of water (mash+sparge water) for most of my 1 gallon recipes, is that around the right value?
(well i looked up 5 gallon recipes, divided everything by 5 and put some of those values into this calculator to find out how much water i need
http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php
)
(btw i only have brewed once, it was an all grain brew, i have never measured the same temperatures in different areas of the mash despite stirring, i hope BIAB can make it easier by almost doubling the amount of mash water and maybe make stirring and heat distribution better)
My first post in homebrewtalk!
I brew in batches of 1,3, and 5 gallons for different occasions.
AND I must admit that I have the most fun with the 1 gallon batches.
Get to experiment, and 3 hours start to finish.
Currently I have been making a bunch of single-hop pale ales (simcoe, east kent goldings, and soon warrior).
Rock on small batches!
And last night I brewed a Belgian Strong Golden Ale with Sorachi Ace in place of Saaz.
I brew in batches of 1,3, and 5 gallons for different occasions.
AND I must admit that I have the most fun with the 1 gallon batches.
Get to experiment, and 3 hours start to finish.
Currently I have been making a bunch of single-hop pale ales (simcoe, east kent goldings, and soon warrior).
Rock on small batches!
And last night I brewed a Belgian Strong Golden Ale with Sorachi Ace in place of Saaz.
PistolaPete
Well-Known Member
Just a heads up that my LHBS has some Brooklyn Brew Shop kits on sale $30 and ingredient kits for $11. And they do mail orders also.
http://www.urbansunshine.com
http://www.urbansunshine.com
Calichusetts
Well-Known Member
First of all...yes you can BIAB...I do a sort of hybrid idea.
Your volume looks good but it is more a function of your grain bill. You should be using 1-1.5 quarts per pound of grain. So if your grain bill was 2 pounds, you could use anywhere from 2-3 quarts for the mash, and again for the sparge. Obviously having only 1 gallon PREBOIL is not where you want to be. This area of brewing is really wide open and many people do different things
In the end, develop your own system that is repeatable and consistent. As for the temps...1 gallon has more issues because we use less grain. This is where the thermal mass that regulates the heat comes from. A couple helpful tips is to wrap your mash tun to get better insulation. Try to have as little headspace as possible and maybe try putting it in the oven on the warm setting (or even get it warm then turn it off for the mash)
Thanks!
While i did the mashing of that 1 gallon brew i continuously turned my stove on and off trying to keep my mash temperature at a constant value, is it possible that the mash tun would keep it's temperature for 60 minutes in the oven? That would be pretty good.
(what is the meaning of headspace in this context? sorry i am not a native english speaker)
TCGoose
Well-Known Member
The oven method works quite well. If you can set it to ~155 it should work great. Mine doesn't go that low, so I heat the oven up to 170ish, turn it off, put the tun in and just let it go for 60 minutes
not even stirring is needed?
(my digital thermometer measured sometimes 10-20 F differences in my mash unless i stirred it constantly when i did my first brew)
TCGoose
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah. I try to stir every 20 minutes or so too. May have to turn the oven back on to compensate for opening the door and letting heat out.
Also, a 10-20 degree difference I your mash is huge. At what point during the mash are you measuring this?
Also, a 10-20 degree difference I your mash is huge. At what point during the mash are you measuring this?
mainly during the first 30 minutes, (it was a 4 step mash, around 2 hours long) no matter where i put the probe i measured a different value,it was kinda like this picture:
It feelt like the grain formed different heat pockets during the whole mashing process, so it was hard to know what temperature i was at exactly
(i was turning the stove on and off constantly because i loosed heat pretty fast otherwise)
Jsslack
Well-Known Member
I biab in a 3 gal pot and use the oven method. Works great.
The_Glue said:
On the stove top you are always going to have uneven temperatures. You don't run into that in the oven. Once it stabilizes, it is set.
FatsSchindee
Well-Known Member
mxchap said:
How'd you like the all Simcoe pale ale? I just came up with a recipe for the same thing, but have been debating adding some Citra or Amarillo to get some more citrus flavor in it... I really want to do the only Simcoe, but have never used it, and keeping hearing references to a "cat piss" flavor some get from it...
I guess the 1 gallon batch would be a good way to try it out, as you said!
For one gallon batches I find you really need two scales. The typical 11lb kitchen scale and a gram scale. The small gram scales are pretty cheap
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026KXU7W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
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Simcoe turned out to be much more diverse a hop than I initially thought.
It started off being all tropical fruit (drinking right when carbed).
After a week I noticed some different citrus (peaches mostly with some orange/grapefruit). And after a couple of weeks some pine became noticeable (nothing like Chinook though).
It can stand on its own.
flipfloptan
Well-Known Member
Here Here to Simcoe by itself. This is the best SMaSH combo to date for me. I really hated the fact that is was only 1 gallon test batch the first go round. Now it is a stable in the fridge.
MO and Simcoe!
MO and Simcoe!
FatsSchindee
Well-Known Member
Good to hear about the Simcoe - thanks! I am planning a 5 gal batch of an APA with it (hope that's not heresy posting that in this thread! 
), because I also don't want to only end up with 10 bottles of what I hope will be an awesome pale ale! Hop schedule is looking like this so far: .5 oz at 60, .5 oz at 15, 1 oz at 2 (or flameout), and 1 oz dry hop for 7 days... How's that sound?
), because I also don't want to only end up with 10 bottles of what I hope will be an awesome pale ale! Hop schedule is looking like this so far: .5 oz at 60, .5 oz at 15, 1 oz at 2 (or flameout), and 1 oz dry hop for 7 days... How's that sound?flipfloptan
Well-Known Member
Good to hear about the Simcoe - thanks! I am planning a 5 gal batch of an APA with it (hope that's not heresy posting that in this thread!
Sounds good. It was close to mine. I kept my Simcoe Smash, as I do all my smashes, right in the middle of the APA guidlines. The only change I may make to your schedule is to do a FWH instead of a 60 min. Since Simcoe is such a verstile hop a FWH will let it shine even more.
FatsSchindee
Well-Known Member
flipfloptan said:
I'm doing a PM with extract, so I can't do a FWH (as far as I understand, that's only all-grain after mashing, no? Or is there a way I can FWH the wort I mash from my PM (3 lbs of grain, before adding to 6 lbs LME later) before adding water to do my boil?)...
flipfloptan
Well-Known Member
I would think that adding the hops after the Partial mash as water goes to a boil would be FWH in the PM method.
I just add hops once I do a mash out at 170 degrees. AG is just a bigger mash than PM.
Someone else may have a different opinion.
Ivypunx
Well-Known Member
This week I am doing a all columbus and a all galena IPA. I have had a lot of fun doing the single hop small batch IPA's.
I use separate scales for grain and hops. The grain scale is a $7 Chinese Amazon with "unit" spelled wrong. The hop scale is a new old stock pharmacy scale with little weights. But it reads in grains and grams, so weighing 1/8oz is simple.
Agreed. I've got a typical moderately accurate kitchen scale. I've also got an AC Pro 200 that reads in .01 gram increments. I'm very happy with that setup. The AC Pro goes up to 200 grams, which is high enough for me to use the tare function with little glass desert dishes on it. That way I can pre-measure ingredients in the containers. I find that to be more convenient then using a lighter container to measure in, or scraping off the scale into another container.
This scale does occasionally vary, with no change in contents, by .05 grams. I find that amount of weight negligible to my usage.
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Ivypunx
Well-Known Member
I have been loading beer into my gallon jugs this week. Three small batches in three days. I just made the switch from screw caps to rubber stoppers. I couldnt be happier with the switch.
Ivypunx
Well-Known Member
I use a oseri kitchen scale to weigh my hops and grains. It can measure in oz, grams and pounds
So my my second brewing session (1 gallon) turned out much better than my first, i was able to keep a pretty constant temperature in the pot using BIAB.
I used about 2.5 grams of yeast from an usual 11.6 gram packet of Safale US-05 for fermentation.
What to do with the rest? Is there a way to store my opened yeast for longer than 2-3 days?
I used about 2.5 grams of yeast from an usual 11.6 gram packet of Safale US-05 for fermentation.
What to do with the rest? Is there a way to store my opened yeast for longer than 2-3 days?
Yes. I squeeze out as much air as I can, seal it with scotch tape, and put it in the fridge. The instructions and many brewers will tell you not to, but I've used it weeks later.
Me too. I've had dried yeast in the fridge for months and it still worked.
flipfloptan
Well-Known Member
I have stored tried yeast for a long time after opening it. If you are worried, you can take open yeast and make a starter. It doesn't take much for 1 gallon brews.
Ivypunx
Well-Known Member
I love US-05. One of my favorite strains
Ivypunx
Well-Known Member
My small batch swamp cooler. Loaded and bubbling like crazy
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