Stop peeing in the fermenter to sanitize it. Use bleach. And boil in an aluminum kettle.
Mashing with too much water
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Sir Sudster
Well-Known Member
Baron von BeeGee said:Maybe I should wash my hands and not sneeze in the kettle so much?
Sorry Begee, but you have to answer that as a question.
Baron von BeeGee said:Maybe I should wash my hands and not sneeze in the kettle so much?
Weren't we just talking about only changing ONE variable at a time?
Kaiser
Well-Known Member
Baron von BeeGee said:
Lately, I have gotten more insight into the seperate beta and alpha rest mashes used by German brewers. The idea of a multi step saccrification rest is to better utilize the beta amylase by holding a maltose rest at about 62C - 64C and then heating up to either a second maltose rest at 65C (for even better fermentability) or heating up to the saccrification rest at 70-72C. The latter rest is held until the mash is converted. Narziss, THE German brewing guru, recommends this mash for a stepped infusion mash, while he recommends a single saccrification rest between 63 and 65C for decoction mashes. In a decoction mash shedule the starched have been made accessible enough to the enzymes that they don't really need the multi step saccrification rests.
That's why I stopped using multi step saccrification rests for decoction mashes and may only used them when I do a directly heated mash in my kettle.
If you are getting the attenuation and full conversion with a single saccrification rest and you mash in a non-heated vessel, don't worry about the multi step saccrification rests.
Kai
Baron von BeeGee
Beer Bully
I don't think I've ever done two rests in the 62-65 range. I'm referring more to the 60/70 rests which I'm terming alpha/beta. So I've leant towards a 40/60/70 lately for all-barley mashes (skipping a protein rest) and 40/50/60/70 for wheat mashes. I'm going to try a 40/50/60/70 with the Breiss Pilsen malt to see what that accomplishes, if anything.
Or, I might do as Noonan suggests in his procedures and try 40/50/~67 (depends on the strike temp of the recipe), basically a single combined rest.
In all cases of multistep mashes I've concluded with a thin decoction to achieve mashout temperatures.
Or, I might do as Noonan suggests in his procedures and try 40/50/~67 (depends on the strike temp of the recipe), basically a single combined rest.
In all cases of multistep mashes I've concluded with a thin decoction to achieve mashout temperatures.
Desert_Sky
Since 1998
Ok, been going through the textbooks to find this for you guys
2:1(very thick) High Fermentability - Low Extract
2:1 - 3:1 Moderate Fermentability- Moderate Extract
3:1 - 4:1(thin) Low Fermentability - High Extract
MBAA Practical Handbook for the Specialty Brewer Vol 1. said:
2:1(very thick) High Fermentability - Low Extract
2:1 - 3:1 Moderate Fermentability- Moderate Extract
3:1 - 4:1(thin) Low Fermentability - High Extract
Desert_Sky
Since 1998
^^^^
no comments?
no comments?
Baron von BeeGee
Beer Bully
It's interesting, and contrary to my other sources, but I'm not smart enough to say whether it's right or wrong!
Chimone said:
I'm no mash expert, but from a simple chemistry standpoint the extraction is right. The more liquid in the mix the more room for sugars to dissolve. I don't think this takes into account sparging though. So any kind of sparge would effect this property.
The high fermentability in a thick mash is due to the time saccarides are in contact with enzymes. When there's more liquid there's more time for the enzymes to float around not converting anything.
Oh yeah, my only decent qualification is my degree in biochemistry, which I'm using for good (beer) not evil (making money).
Matt
Glibbidy
Well-Known Member
In the future instead of F-ing around with your mash water being too hot, and trying to regulate it with cooler water to hit your target temp, consider using a wort chiller to cool the mash water to your target temp before adding it to the mash. In this case you will avoid addiing any addtional volume of liquids that would otherwise affect your overall efficiency.
Make sense?
OP
OP
Perfect sense, although given that I was only off by a couple degrees, I probably could have just taken it off the heat and let it sit for two minutes to cool before adding it to the grain. By the time I got the chiller hooked up, I probably would have already lost too much temp. As I get more experience, I would also expect to have a much better idea of *how much* cool water to add to a mash to get the temp down a couple degrees, rather than overdoing it. It wasn't like I was ever out of range, I just started too far on the high end.
Plus, I now have a better understanding of how to use tools like BeerSmith, so I can get a more precise measurement of how how my mash water need to be to hit my target.
Plus, I now have a better understanding of how to use tools like BeerSmith, so I can get a more precise measurement of how how my mash water need to be to hit my target.
