Welding questions

Yakima 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ohio-Ed

Ohio-Ed

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Nov 18, 2008
Messages
2,058
Reaction score
25
Hey guys...

I have 3 kegs with the tops cut and getting ready to be converted.
I am gathering the parts to be welded (still looking for someone to do the welding) and have a few questions:

1. Is there an issue tig welding a 304 "Cast" stainless coupling to a keg? See the link below for an example...
http://www.murrayequipment.com/dyncat.asp?SGroup=304 Stainless Steel Couplings

2. Am I better off or would the welder likely prefer to drill/punch and prep the holes themselves or should I do it? If I'm gonna do it, how tight do the joints need to be?

3. Unfortunately I don't know anyone that can tig these for me... So what should I ask when I call someone from the Yellow Pages to quickly get an idea if they have the equipment/knowledge to do the job?


Thanks,

Ed
 
In an ideal world you want the welder to be able to do sanitary welds. Stainless requires some extra steps to come out looking nice.

WRT the gaps, I would prefer them to be as tight as possible, but other may disagree...

From what I understand, 304 can be welded to 316, but I am NOT a professional. I am simply a guy who learned to tig (poorly) to build a brewery...
 
Ohio-Ed said:
Hey guys...

I have 3 kegs with the tops cut and getting ready to be converted.
I am gathering the parts to be welded (still looking for someone to do the welding) and have a few questions:

1. Is there an issue tig welding a 304 "Cast" stainless coupling to a keg? See the link below for an example...
http://www.murrayequipment.com/dyncat.asp?SGroup=304 Stainless Steel Couplings

2. Am I better off or would the welder likely prefer to drill/punch and prep the holes themselves or should I do it? If I'm gonna do it, how tight do the joints need to be?

3. Unfortunately I don't know anyone that can tig these for me... So what should I ask when I call someone from the Yellow Pages to quickly get an idea if they have the equipment/knowledge to do the job?


Thanks,

Ed
Click to expand...

Hey Ed,

Where in Ohio are you located? I've been in the business for 15 yrs. and have a great number of contacts all over the state. I should be able to help you out.
 
bad67z said:
Hey Ed,

Where in Ohio are you located? I've been in the business for 15 yrs. and have a great number of contacts all over the state. I should be able to help you out.
Click to expand...

I'm near Lebanon, around Kings Island if you are familiar with the area. I would really appreciate any help you can offer.

Any thought on the "cast" couplers? They are really inexpensive on that site and I haven't seen them referred to as "cast" anywhere else.

Thanks,

Ed
 
Ohio is a long trip. But here is how I do keg for brewers.

First nothing wrong with the cast FULL couplers little on the high carbon side but can be welded.

I take a full coupler and turn down half its length on the lathe to 1 inch in diameter. They run from anywhere from .130 + or - to .035 + or - over an inch. The reason is a hole saw don't come in to many faction sizes. But they do come in 1 inch. Yes I said a hole saw no need for cooling or going slow put the bloody thing in a 3/4 inch drill and pull the trigger. Just one thing I don't buy my hole saws at H F or any other cheap tool store. Myself Milwaukee, stril do just fine. I would guess the one I have in its fixture must of drilled least 45 kegs.

Now you have a coupler that will fit the hole in the keg and if you turn it down proud of 1 inch a good tight fit.

I make a dam on the backside with foil and tape and place a gas line in of argon to flood the back side of the weld you will get a nice smooth surface. If you didn't the oxygen would leave what welders call sugar a very rough surface. But you still can use it just a little hard to clean

Put a pipe plug in the front side but don't thread it tight just enough to keep the argon from escaping.

Tig weld the outside with a good quality filler rod and I like to do it in about three or four welds to keep it straight and level.

After it cools plug the front side and do sea trails in other words fill it with water pass the coupler to check for leaks.

Hope this helps I don't know what a regular shop in Ohio would get for this but when you talk to them ask about back flowing the weld if they don't know what you are talking about move on down the road. Myself here at the shed its 12.00 and I furnish the coupler and do the lathe work.


Hope this helps and if I can do anything drop by.

Dominus Vobiscum

Swagman:cool:
 
Swagman said:
Ohio is a long trip. But here is how I do keg for brewers.

First nothing wrong with the cast FULL couplers little on the high carbon side but can be welded.

I take a full coupler and turn down half its length on the lathe to 1 inch in diameter. They run from anywhere from .130 + or - to .035 + or - over an inch. The reason is a hole saw don't come in to many faction sizes. But they do come in 1 inch. Yes I said a hole saw no need for cooling or going slow put the bloody thing in a 3/4 inch drill and pull the trigger. Just one thing I don't buy my hole saws at H F or any other cheap tool store. Myself Milwaukee, stril do just fine. I would guess the one I have in its fixture must of drilled least 45 kegs.

Now you have a coupler that will fit the hole in the keg and if you turn it down proud of 1 inch a good tight fit.

I make a dam on the backside with foil and tape and place a gas line in of argon to flood the back side of the weld you will get a nice smooth surface. If you didn't the oxygen would leave what welders call sugar a very rough surface. But you still can use it just a little hard to clean

Put a pipe plug in the front side but don't thread it tight just enough to keep the argon from escaping.

Tig weld the outside with a good quality filler rod and I like to do it in about three or four welds to keep it straight and level.

After it cools plug the front side and do sea trails in other words fill it with water pass the coupler to check for leaks.

Hope this helps I don't know what a regular shop in Ohio would get for this but when you talk to them ask about back flowing the weld if they don't know what you are talking about move on down the road. Myself here at the shed its 12.00 and I furnish the coupler and do the lathe work.


Hope this helps and if I can do anything drop by.

Dominus Vobiscum

Swagman:cool:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback.
Gives me a lot of good info to listen for.

I have holesaws (Milwaukee bi-metal, and no problem buying an additional one if needed), drills, step drills, grinders, dremel... but not a metal lathe. If I make the holes, I will most likely have to finish them up with a dremel/angle grinder and a file.

I guess maybe my best bet is to find a welder and see if they would prefer to drill & prep or have me do it.

I'm worried about small shops that may take a job even if they aren't qualified, especially in this economy. I really don't want to walk into someones shop and put them thru the third degree (samples, references, specs, etc). I'm hoping I can get a sense of their qualifications without offending them. My thoughts are they are more likely to offer a "friendly" deal that way, and I can say "Thanks for your time, I was just checking" and walk away if they don't say the right things.

Ed
 
Ohio Ed,

You seem like a handy guy, perhaps look into silver soldering the fittings if you can't hire a welder. I'm pretty sure you won't find someone as capable and value priced as Swag. Sure, not as strong as ss weld, but would likely last a lifetime plus.

many ways to do it w/ different fittings, as I understand you want a shoulder on the fitting to provide additional surface area...here is one option.
http://www.skotrat.com/go/default/brewing-info/keg-conversion-101/
 
Swagman said:
I make a dam on the backside with foil and tape and place a gas line in of argon to flood the back side of the weld you will get a nice smooth surface. If you didn't the oxygen would leave what welders call sugar a very rough surface. But you still can use it just a little hard to clean
Click to expand...

Just getting setup for tig at the house,couldn`t I just use ducktape to seal the opening in the top of the keg, insert the hose and purge the whole keg or would this be a waste of gas?

Thanks Geoff
 
Geoffrey said:
Just getting setup for tig at the house,couldn`t I just use ducktape to seal the opening in the top of the keg, insert the hose and purge the whole keg or would this be a waste of gas?

Thanks Geoff
Click to expand...
Big waste and with prices of argon going up each fill Ouch.

Myself I will stick with foil packet and aluminum tape

But to each his own
Dominus vobiscum

Swagman:cool:
 
Swagman... I made a little progress. I mentioned that I don't have a metal lathe, but I DO have a wood lathe. I put a coupling on the wood lathe and took an angle grinder and a file to it. I managed to "turn" half the length down to 1" +/-. Makes for a real nice fit in a 1" hole. I didn't get a real square shoulder but I think it will do. I didn't think about or realize how out of round those couplings are. I'll try to put a picture up when I get to my other computer. Took me awhile to get it sized, but I hope it will be worth the effort.

Ed
 
It should work just fine. Yes that's a lot of work but I think you will find it was worth it.

Out round think the Chinaman need to rework his mold's

Here is the way to go

133.jpg



Makes short work of it but the labor you put in will be worth more


Good Job

Dominus Vobiscum

Swagman:cool:
 
Here is the result of my effort on the right (original on the left).

I ordered additional couplings... Next, figure out exactly how I want them configured and locate a welder.

Ed

Coupling.jpg
 
^
l
l

Nice looking machine work Ed. Now I get to work on finding you a welder.
 
bad67z said:
Nice looking machine work Ed. Now I get to work on finding you a welder.
Click to expand...

LOL... Calling it machine work is being very generous, but Thanks.

I still have to decide how many couplings I want to install and how to position them in each vessel.

Here is what I'm thinking about;

HLT:
Valve, Site Glass, Temp Probe, Whirlpool/Return (thinking of using a pump instead of a stirrer), HEX Coil In, HEX Coil Out, Heat Element.
Thats 7 in just the HLT.

BK:
Valve, Site Glass, Temp Probe, Whirlpool/Return, Heat Element
5 in the BK.

MLT:
Valve, Temp Probe, Sparge/Return, and I am undecided about a Site Glass in the MLT.
3 or 4 in the MLT

I ordered 16 couplings (and 12 plugs)...

Next is to decide at what height and where on the circumference to install each?

I'm open for suggestions...

Thanks,
Ed
 
Ed

If I can do anything let me know with flat rate shipping it would not cost much on shipping.

I could turn them down for you just the cost of the coupler no charge on lathe work.

Your work looks great and will work great but if I can be a help let me know


Swagman:cool:
 
Swagman said:
It should work just fine. Yes that's a lot of work but I think you will find it was worth it.

Out round think the Chinaman need to rework his mold's

Here is the way to go

133.jpg



Makes short work of it but the labor you put in will be worth more


Good Job

Dominus Vobiscum

Swagman:cool:
Click to expand...

That sure looks like a lot of stick out from the chuck to do any lathe work from my training.
 
As far as finding a welder I would ask 4 questions:
1 do you have a welder that can tig weld stainless?
2 are you willing to back gas the welds w/ argon?
3 will you do this for a price per weld, and what is that price. Or just name the price you think is reasonable and your willing to pay. Will you do this for $3 a weld?

I would recommend you drilling all the holes and fitting all couplings. This will save you a bunch of scrilla and you get them where you want them. Make them tight but they don't have to be "hammer them in tight" I mean they need to get in the hole but any welder can fill a small gap.

I wouldn't ask:
Can you all make a sanitary weld in stainless?
The reality is they probably can't, not many welders can. That truly is an art form and requires YEARS of practice. And you don't need a sanitary weld anywhere in your wort production system, so why bother asking? All it's going to do is make them lie to you and charge you more.
I wouldn't ask if they can weld 304 onto 316. Yes they can, if they tig weld stainless. why complicate things for them and make them feel like this is a big deal, which will only cost you more money.....why? It just will. I know welding shops brotha' and I know how they opperate. It's on a PITA basis. Make it seem easy and no big deal like anyone can do the job, and the price goes down.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Jay
 
bad67z is that Freddie the flute? I just saw that Hulu has HR Pufnstuf episodes on their website. I had the flu and had time to kill, honest!
 
pnh2atl said:
bad67z is that Freddie the flute? I just saw that Hulu has HR Pufnstuf episodes on their website. I had the flu and had time to kill, honest!
Click to expand...

Looked for a jpeg of Dr. Shrinker but could not find one that I could get to a manageable size. So Freddie it is.

Sid and Marty Kroft = Genius

Edit: Found one!
 
Jaybird said:
As far as finding a welder I would ask 4 questions:
1 do you have a welder that can tig weld stainless?
2 are you willing to back gas the welds w/ argon?
3 will you do this for a price per weld, and what is that price. Or just name the price you think is reasonable and your willing to pay. Will you do this for $3 a weld?
Click to expand...

Jaybird,

Thank you for the concise, cut through the BS, welding vendor questions. I have kegs to convert and got stuck today on the aluminum keg to SS coupling so your response simplified a possible complex/costly issue, as long as my area welder can handle it. Very helpful post for me.

Mike

Starting new AG setup so will check out your store...
 
Jaybird said:
As far as finding a welder I would ask 4 questions:
1 do you have a welder that can tig weld stainless?
2 are you willing to back gas the welds w/ argon?
3 will you do this for a price per weld, and what is that price. Or just name the price you think is reasonable and your willing to pay. Will you do this for $3 a weld?

I would recommend you drilling all the holes and fitting all couplings. This will save you a bunch of scrilla and you get them where you want them. Make them tight but they don't have to be "hammer them in tight" I mean they need to get in the hole but any welder can fill a small gap.

I wouldn't ask:
Can you all make a sanitary weld in stainless?
The reality is they probably can't, not many welders can. That truly is an art form and requires YEARS of practice. And you don't need a sanitary weld anywhere in your wort production system, so why bother asking? All it's going to do is make them lie to you and charge you more.
I wouldn't ask if they can weld 304 onto 316. Yes they can, if they tig weld stainless. why complicate things for them and make them feel like this is a big deal, which will only cost you more money.....why? It just will. I know welding shops brotha' and I know how they opperate. It's on a PITA basis. Make it seem easy and no big deal like anyone can do the job, and the price goes down.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

Jay; if I asked any welder in my area to weld a coupling at $3 each I will wake up in the parking lot then to the hospital for stitches. My welding friends that is their business besides fab work wouldn't even look at you at $10 a coupling when they were already set up to Tig no assembly of jig alignment work or time required. One custom fab person only works with stainless and marine. Labors much higher in my area as well cost of living vs across the country.
 
SP_Spiff said:
got stuck today on the aluminum keg to SS coupling so your response simplified a possible complex/costly issue, as long as my area welder can handle it.
Click to expand...

I will stop you there.. There is no way to weld aluminum to SS. If your kegs are aluminum, then you need aluminum fittings, stainless kegs, or go weldless.

Aluminum is a non-ferrous alloy whereas SS is a ferrous alloy (stainless STEEL).

Those questions and suggestions are right on, as well as, charging on a PITA basis. The more work you do up front, the faster and cheaper the job will get done.
 
BrewBeemer said:
Jay; if I asked any welder in my area to weld a coupling at $3 each I will wake up in the parking lot then to the hospital for stitches. My welding friends that is their business besides fab work wouldn't even look at you at $10 a coupling when they were already set up to Tig no assembly of jig alignment work or time required. One custom fab person only works with stainless and marine. Labors much higher in my area as well cost of living vs across the country.
Click to expand...

There is no way I would weld couplings for $3. Filler rods and electric would cost you that. I'm always happy to help a fellow brewer out, but I would be hard pressed to find a shop to couplings for that. I would say you will find $15-$25 per coupling more in the shop range.
 
Dog House Brew said:
There is no way I would weld couplings for $3. Filler rods and electric would cost you that. I'm always happy to help a fellow brewer out, but I would be hard pressed to find a shop to couplings for that. I would say you will find $15-$25 per coupling more in the shop range.
Click to expand...
That's the going price in my area also.
Hell they charge over $100 an hour to have a so called "tech" look at these new POS plastic cars before they add the part or labor.
All boils down to remember bread at 31 cents a loaf, milk 48 cents a half gallon and now look at those prices today.
Maybe Mr Chin Ho in China can do it for $3 a coupling not in the USA?
 
I've found that when it comes to skilled trades like welding/machining, you can get a rough estimate of how much it's going to cost you for labor like this: Estimate the hourly wage of the worker and how long it will take to do the job including setup time. Multiply those together, and then multiply by about 5. Overhead (rent, utilities, health insurance, administration, etc) is very expensive and the worker's wage only accounts for a fraction of the total cost of having that worker do a job. And then the shop's gotta try to make a profit on top of all of that.

Example: An experienced welder making $20/hr does a 30 minute job. $20 * 0.5 * 5 = $50.
 
SP_Spiff said:
Jaybird,

Thank you for the concise, cut through the BS, welding vendor questions. I have kegs to convert and got stuck today on the aluminum keg to SS coupling so your response simplified a possible complex/costly issue, as long as my area welder can handle it. Very helpful post for me.

Mike

Starting new AG setup so will check out your store...
Click to expand...
Glad I could shed some light

BrewBeemer said:
Jay; if I asked any welder in my area to weld a coupling at $3 each I will wake up in the parking lot then to the hospital for stitches. My welding friends that is their business besides fab work wouldn't even look at you at $10 a coupling when they were already set up to Tig no assembly of jig alignment work or time required. One custom fab person only works with stainless and marine. Labors much higher in my area as well cost of living vs across the country.
Click to expand...

Dog House Brew said:
There is no way I would weld couplings for $3. Filler rods and electric would cost you that. I'm always happy to help a fellow brewer out, but I would be hard pressed to find a shop to couplings for that. I would say you will find $15-$25 per coupling more in the shop range.
Click to expand...
The point is I like to start the negotiations on my terms not theirs and it seems to work for me.

Derrin said:
I'm not speaking for Jay, but the way I read that was 'ask if they'll back-gas for an additional price per weld, say $3' not weld each coupler for $3....
Click to expand...
I was really.
 
Swagman: Thank you very much for the offer to help me with machining. I ordered the couplings and have them coming to my house. I like to futz around in the shop, so I will probably try to size them the hard way. I may send you a pm if I get overwelmed.

Bad67z: Thank you for offering to help me locate a welder/fabricator in my area. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jaybird: Thank you for the insight on what I can look for to help quickly qualify a welder.

Encouragement, help and advise like yours ond other here are a big reason I just renewed my HBT subscription and became a Lifetime Supporter.

Thanks all.
 
Bobby_M said:
For reference, I paid $130 for 9 couplings and adding tabs to the cutout tops for lids for three kegs.
Click to expand...

Bobby
That service would have cost $156 through my store. I would have included the couplings, either 1/2 or full, all the tabs, and I would have done all the drilling.
Jay
 
OK, so unless I can find someone to make me a "Friendly" deal, looks like I might be in the $150-$200 range for welding up my kegs.

Another question...
With the right equipment, how tough would it be to weld this myself?
(And I really don't mean any disrespect to the guys that do this professionally... I know it takes years of experience for this to be second nature and know how to deal with any situation that comes your way)

Obvious next question...
What would be the right equipment for a home owner and avid DIYer and what kind of cost are we talking about?

Ed
 
Ohio-Ed said:
OK, so unless I can find someone to make me a "Friendly" deal, looks like I might be in the $150-$200 range for welding up my kegs.

Another question...
With the right equipment, how tough would it be to weld this myself?
(And I really don't mean any disrespect to the guys that do this professionally... I know it takes years of experience for this to be second nature and know how to deal with any situation that comes your way)

Obvious next question...
What would be the right equipment for a home owner and avid DIYer and what kind of cost are we talking about?

Ed
Click to expand...

OK, your thread and a couple other members have made me join the forum. I gave in.I have been lurking about for about 2 weeks and I can't stand not being able to reply or ask questions of my own.

I don't think you are disrespecting anyone by asking what it takes to do this. However, you will need a good bit of equipment to do it right. So, my question to you is.....How far do you want to go to do it "right"?

Your gonna need a welder. Do you have one? TIG is preffered but, that is where I asked about how far do you want to go. You can weld it up using a wire unit, but it wont be "right". By "right" I mean a sanitary weld.

I had a big long reply typed out that went here. I erased it for the next question.

Can you weld?



Oh yea, even at the 150-200 dollar range.......You most likely wont be able to gather the equipment for that. That is depending on how much of the equipment you have already. Heck, bottles alone will cost you that a piece, and you should have 2 to do it "right".
 
I humbly disagree w/ Greenmonti (welcome to the forum!). I have tried and tried and tried to weld this stuff up w/ a wire machine. I was using a Hobart Handler 120vac w/ argon. Uhmmmm Not so much. Now don't get me wrong I only have about 15 years experience welding, some professionally and some for fun, but to do thin stainless to thick stainless like a keg to a coupler your gonna need a Tig, I was able to weld a few but if you burn through good luck filling it.
Look around you can find deals in the $300-400 range. It really is not that hard to tig it takes practice and some knowhow. If you have a friend who welds and you are mechanical you can pick it up in a few days and get good enough to weld this stuff in a few weeks. Forget a sanitary weld, it isn’t gonna happen!
Cheers
Jay
 
GreenMonti said:
OK, your thread and a couple other members have made me join the forum. I gave in.I have been lurking about for about 2 weeks and I can't stand not being able to reply or ask questions of my own.

I don't think you are disrespecting anyone by asking what it takes to do this. However, you will need a good bit of equipment to do it right. So, my question to you is.....How far do you want to go to do it "right"?

Your gonna need a welder. Do you have one? TIG is preffered but, that is where I asked about how far do you want to go. You can weld it up using a wire unit, but it wont be "right". By "right" I mean a sanitary weld.

I had a big long reply typed out that went here. I erased it for the next question.

Can you weld?



Oh yea, even at the 150-200 dollar range.......You most likely wont be able to gather the equipment for that. That is depending on how much of the equipment you have already. Heck, bottles alone will cost you that a piece, and you should have 2 to do it "right".
Click to expand...

Well first of all... Welcome to HBT!!!

And lets get to your last question first... I can make 2 pieces of "THICK" metal stick together :cross:

I have a Miller Thunderbolt 225 stick welder that I got because I got such a deal on it and wanted a welder. I have had it for years and used it a hand full of times when I needed to "weld" something that didn't need to look pretty and I thought was thick enough that I wouldn't burn it up.

I have never tried to mig or tig weld. But have had plenty of situations where I wish I could.

I know that the money I would spend on these kegs would not cover the cost of equipment to do it myself. However... I look at situations like this as discount opportunities. Since I don't really have an idea... lets say the equipment would cost $1000. I say wow, I can get the equipment for 20% discount if I'm able to do it my self and not spend $200 on these kegs. I'm still going to need to build a stand so there is another discount opportunity. And I know two other guys that are looking to convert kegs and build systems.

I think based on everything I have heard, TIG is definitely the way I'd want to go.

I think that a TIG welder would get way more use around my house and hobbies than my current stick welder. Although I will likely try to use it to build a stand when I'm ready.

I'm a tool junkie... So to your question "How far do you want to go?"... Well, I don't know. $5,000 too much...$500 done! Somewhere in between...Hmmm.

Ed
 
Jaybird said:
I humbly disagree w/ Greenmonti (welcome to the forum!). I have tried and tried and tried to weld this stuff up w/ a wire machine. I was using a Hobart Handler 120vac w/ argon. Uhmmmm Not so much. Now don't get me wrong I only have about 15 years experience welding, some professionally and some for fun, but to do thin stainless to thick stainless like a keg to a coupler your gonna need a Tig, I was able to weld a few but if you burn through good luck filling it.
Look around you can find deals in the $300-400 range. It really is not that hard to tig it takes practice and some knowhow. If you have a friend who welds and you are mechanical you can pick it up in a few days and get good enough to weld this stuff in a few weeks. Forget a sanitary weld, it isn’t gonna happen!
Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

Thanks Jay...
I would not try to weld a fermentor. I know those welds probably should be sanitary.

Anything up to the BK, should be sanitized by the boil. I trust in this, you should see the coupling my friend who spent 15 years in a bodyshop welded on my current BK (It's bad).

Do you have any brands/models/examples of equipment I should look for?

Ed
 
Jaybird said:
I humbly disagree w/ Greenmonti (welcome to the forum!). I have tried and tried and tried to weld this stuff up w/ a wire machine. I was using a Hobart Handler 120vac w/ argon. Uhmmmm Not so much. Now don't get me wrong I only have about 15 years experience welding, some professionally and some for fun, but to do thin stainless to thick stainless like a keg to a coupler your gonna need a Tig, I was able to weld a few but if you burn through good luck filling it.
Look around you can find deals in the $300-400 range. It really is not that hard to tig it takes practice and some knowhow. If you have a friend who welds and you are mechanical you can pick it up in a few days and get good enough to weld this stuff in a few weeks. Forget a sanitary weld, it isn’t gonna happen!
Cheers
Jay
Click to expand...

All a sanitary weld is a purged weld that is burned all the way through. As you know the purge, keeps the nasty sugar away. Now, there is a pressure thing with the back purge, but we wont adress that. There is no reason not to be able to weld these parts together with a wire unit. Think of autobody. Take you time and do it slow. Place the heat in the right place and there will be no issues. You will be doing a series of short welds with time inbetween for some cooling.

I agree you can find a good deal on a used unit. But, you will be spending quite a bit more then just having it done. I wish you were more close to me. We are about 8 hours apart. I charge 40 bucks a fitting and 20 if I like you. I made a pretty cool tool to pull the fitting through the side after I drill a 7/8" hole. Very clean. No real need for any filler wire. Just a fuision pass.

While I can't claim 15 years of experience, I can say I am an aerospace welder. I am qualified from .400" down to .011". I regularly weld .015" thick Inconel. I also weld Titanium and stainless daily.
 
Ohio-Ed said:
Well first of all... Welcome to HBT!!!

And lets get to your last question first... I can make 2 pieces of "THICK" metal stick together :cross:

I have a Miller Thunderbolt 225 stick welder that I got because I got such a deal on it and wanted a welder. I have had it for years and used it a hand full of times when I needed to "weld" something that didn't need to look pretty and I thought was thick enough that I wouldn't burn it up.

I have never tried to mig or tig weld. But have had plenty of situations where I wish I could.

I know that the money I would spend on these kegs would not cover the cost of equipment to do it myself. However... I look at situations like this as discount opportunities. Since I don't really have an idea... lets say the equipment would cost $1000. I say wow, I can get the equipment for 20% discount if I'm able to do it my self and not spend $200 on these kegs. I'm still going to need to build a stand so there is another discount opportunity. And I know two other guys that are looking to convert kegs and build systems.

I think based on everything I have heard, TIG is definitely the way I'd want to go.

I think that a TIG welder would get way more use around my house and hobbies than my current stick welder. Although I will likely try to use it to build a stand when I'm ready.

I'm a tool junkie... So to your question "How far do you want to go?"... Well, I don't know. $5,000 too much...$500 done! Somewhere in between...Hmmm.

Ed
Click to expand...

In my honest opinion, stick with miller. Very nice units. A stick welder wont get you where you need to be. Can you run the whole rod down in one weld and make it sound like a frying egg the whole time? With a decent out come?

IMO, stick is a lot harder then MIG. Forgive me but, MIG is kinda.......a dummy weld. There is some knowledge needed, but that is a general knowledge of what you are doing. MIG persey(sp) is not that hard to do. Tig requires a few motor skills at once. Not trying to talk myself up here but, you will work a foot feed (if so equiped) hold the torch in one hand, feed wire in the other hand. Process all that is going on (puddles size, weld rate, puddle apperience, height of weld, ect) while doing that. The height is what is important in doing a sanitary weld. You the welder must know when you are getting through. Short of a fillet weld, every weld I do at work is pushed through.

I hear you on the tool junkie deal. I wouldn't have a $1600 table saw if I didn't understand that one.;) If you can swing it, a TIG welder will serve you extremly well. Thick projects will take a bit more time and require a couple more passes but, the ability to weld anything (once you got the feel) will come in handy if you get my drift. If you can spring for an AC/DC unit you will be able to weld alumn-anything. It is going to cost you though. Give the local welding shop a visit. See what you can do. I really can't answer what it will cost you. I haven't piad full retail in 10 years at my local welding supply. So I have no idea any more what things cost. I would say for 2500 new, you could do fair, in TIG. Used that should go very far. I hate to say this but, in this economy used units might be very easy to come by.
 

Similar threads

S
It's Been A While
Replies
3
Views
388
redrocker652002
R
R
A few passivation questions
Replies
1
Views
383
Indian_villager
I
N
My Experience with SS Brewtech
2
Replies
41
Views
2K
ninkwood
N
R
Checking kegs for leaks
2
Replies
48
Views
2K
redrocker652002
R
M
Frozen mango chunks in secondary unitank?
Replies
1
Views
131
mggray87
M
Brewer's Friend 300

Latest posts

Back
Top