Cooper Kit Question

Hello Everyone!

I've started my first batch in the Coopers starter kit, but I have a question about when to remove the collar and seal the lid on.

The one I received this week is apparently a new design from the older models in that it doesn't have a bubbler .

Instead it has a collar that sits between the top of the bucket and the lid.

The directions on the Coopers kit say to remove the collar after 2 days.

I'm working on following the directions in "How to Brew" and also in this forum on letting your primary ferment for a two to three weeks.

My question/concerns are:
1. The old kits were sealed and had a vapor lock to let them vent while still being sanitized...the collar on this kit is NOT air tight. Is that really okay?

2. The kit directions say to remove the collar after 48 hours and put the lid back on. If I'm trying to let the primary ferment for for 2 weeks, should I leave it just like it is for two weeks ? Or should I remove the collar and replace the lid and let it sit for two weeks?

3. There is no vent in the lid and the lid doesn't screw on to seal. Are they counting on the lid not being sealed to let it vent?

Thanks so much!

Travisf

In case it matters, I'm brewing the Coopers Ale, started with a 1040 BG last night and checked it tonight and it hasn't changed.

I'm not sure it matters, but I wanted to let you all know in case it impacted your thoughts.

Thanks!

TravisF

I'm ending the fermentation of my second Cooper's DIY batch. The first one (a lager) fermented quite nicely. My English Bitter shows signs of fermentation, but not nearly at the level of the lager. This could be the different yeast, different fermentables, or what have you. It smells and looks fine though.

The collar is for two purposes to my understanding:

1. To allow for more space for brews that ferment at a faster and more visible amount. They give a couple clips for just such occasions.

2. To remove some of the sediment that gathers at the top of your brew earlier into the fermentation. This makes it easier to clean the actual fermenter later, which is sweet.


At any point, the DIY kit says 4-10 days to ferment. Are you seeing any signs at all? Is it at the proper temperature for the yeast to do its work? If so, don't worry. I initially panicked when I started my second batch and was told to relax and let it move on its own.

I'm not familar with the set up of this kit but I will say that if the top to your fermentor is not air tight that is not ok. You greatly increase your risk of infection this way. I would replace the top.

As for the idea of allowing more space for more active fermentations, a blow off tube would be the way to go.

I didn't remove my krausen collar until about day 10. You can remove it anytime after obviously active fermentation has ended. Suggestion is to have heater in house off for a bit if you have forced air.. (dust and all that stuff blowing around.. which may be contaminated). Also, when you remove the collar, do it slowly so as to not disturb the CO2 layer in the FV.

Forget the timing instructions tho.. The hydrometer is your best friend.. You did check it, didn't you?? Calibrate it by putting it in tap water.. the reading should be very close to 1.000 with water at 60*F. If it is off by much.. you can adjust your readings by that amount.. but ask the supplier for a new one.. they know the problem with the new plastic ones. My first one read 1.006 with tap water at 60*F.

Anyhow, don't consider bottling until your brew has been in the FV for AT LEAST 2 weeks.. If you can stand the pain.. let it go 3 weeks after the SG has stabilized. Mine ended up at 1.039 and ended up at 1.013 as I remember. I bottle on day 23. It is now in the refrig.. Tastes great... BE PATIENT grasshopper.

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to leave it as is for another week then see where we're at.

fwiw...I've been doing more reading and aparently this new design is okay because the carbon dioxide is heavier then air and protects the beer?

I'll report back once I know how it turned out.

also, I did check OG, but I didn't really know at the time that it was temperature sensitive. I tested it while it was still at 26c, so the reading isn't going to be the most accurate one.

That's part of the learning process I guess

Thanks again!

TravisF said:

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to leave it as is for another week then see where we're at.

fwiw...I've been doing more reading and aparently this new design is okay because the carbon dioxide is heavier then air and protects the beer?

I'll report back once I know how it turned out.

also, I did check OG, but I didn't really know at the time that it was temperature sensitive. I tested it while it was still at 26c, so the reading isn't going to be the most accurate one.

That's part of the learning process I guess

Thanks again!

Click to expand...

You can compensate for the temp difference.. there are conversions on the internet.. and probably here.. just google hydrometer temperature corrections.

Also, yes.. the new design FV is great.. but, when you remove the krausen collar, I'd do it carefully / slowly so you don't do gas transfer.. air / co2. Just do it slowly and you shouldn't stir up the gasses inside that protect the wort.

I have the coopers set up, it uses a "burping" method in that it burps out the co2 through the lid, as it burps it out no air gets in due to pressure always pushing out (think of it like this when you fart does air get in you @$$ , also co2 is heavier than air so the beer is protected somewhat. When you remove the collar do so gently so as to not disturb the c02 gas above your beer. Ive brewed two other non Coopers ales in it with no problems. Though I did screw up my Coopers lager by pitching the yeast at too high a temp The point of the collar is to make cleaning the gunk off it easier and not scratch it while doing so. Have fun and good
luck with your brew!

Don't sweat it. People brew with only glad wrap on top and all goes well. Having brewed for years with 'normal' airlock fermenters the idea feels weird at first, but the science behind it is sound. I have done brews that didn't bubble because there was a seal problem, and they all turn out fine. As has been said the layer of co2 does its job, and the lid stops any unwanted bits of matter getting in. Relax, enjoy. Bet a year from now you'll laugh when you think of how worried you were! I did the same. Have fun.

Oh and also remove the collar once the foam collapses. You can see it clearly through the lid. About 3 days depending on temp etc.

Thanks to TravisF and all other posters! I was wondering the exact same thing about the Krausen collar - videos I had seen with previous Coopers kits had the airlock and a tight lid. It's almost been 24 hours after pitching the wort and I can see the bubbles have raised and are now receding - chances are I'll remove the collar tonight or tomorrow night.

Cheers!

not familiar with this FV but sounds like a nice idea. anyone got a pic to post?

Coopers kit; lager. So it looks likes the bubbles raised and receded but not all the way (the center has less). I'm at a solid 22°C and I know that is closer to the low end - it's been 36 hours since I pitched the wort, should I wait until the bubbles are mostly gone to pull the krausen collar? The recommendation in the instructions just said 12 - 24 hours and when the bubbles are gone.