starting my build

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BWN

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I am starting to put together my electric brewery after months of reading on here and asking questions. It will be a 2 tier stand with 5500w elements in 2 keggles(HLT and BK). I will be using a cooler for a mash tun with one pump. I plan to expand to a HERMS system with 2 pumps later on. I am going to use this schematic and just slightly modify it. Even though he didn't draw it for me I would like to thank P-J for the time he put into this.

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a11a-SWA-2451-5500w.jpg


I will be using 2 auber 2352 PIDs and eliminate the flashing buzzer. I still have a few questions:
1. Would these work for distribution blocks?
http://www.elecdirect.com/product/66f4bb74-feb3-4845-849a-c897ea6ffdbd.aspx
2. What size wire is needed for the emergency stop?
3. Where is a good place to buy fuses, fuse holders and resistors?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
electrical stuff like wire and breakers/din rails can be found at places like digikey, newark, and mouser. Ebay and your local electrical supply should be able to help with some stuff too. The wire for the estop does not have to be very big. Current is what dictates wire size and if you are using PJ's estop that circuit wont pull more than 1 amp.

Check this chart out for future questions about wire sizing - http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm. I would go with the chassis wiring column.

Those distribution blocks would work fine. Just make sure you get them for the right wire size and current draw you expect. I got mine from mcmaster-carr and i think you can get stuff like that from places like newark.com if you wanted to combine the order with other things.
 
how many volts will you be hooking up? 120? 240? most fuses are rated for high voltage. You need to be most concerned with current for fuses and breakers, although it is worth verifying the voltage limits.
 
I will be hooking up 240 to the control panel. I am finding most of the small fuses are for 250v so am I correct in assuming those would work?
 
So my package from Auber came in but the window was closed at the post office:mad:. I'll have to wait until this afternoon to pick it up.

I think I am going to use these for my fuses:
fuse holders:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102786
Says it accepts up to 18 gauge wire, don't know if that would be a problem or not. Maybe I could use this instead:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102782

fast acting fuses:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102739&filterName=Type&filterValue=1.1-2A

Slow blow fuses for E- Stop:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102747

Now to figure out resistors:confused:
 
Got my keggles all drilled and cleaned up the metal shavings and oil and installed weldless valves, pickup tubes, and sight glasses from BrewHardware.com. After getting everything put together I realized I still need to drill holes for the elements.:(

p6220603.jpg


p6220601.jpg
 
ya those element holes should be 1 1/4" if you didnt know that already. I did mine with o-rings from mcmaster and an electrical box and blank cover from Lowes.
 
I looked at those and didn't know what would be neater. With those I would have 3 more wires running to the control panel door(I guess I could mount them on the side of the box though). They look like they might be easier to install though.
 
I looked at those and didn't know what would be neater. With those I would have 3 more wires running to the control panel door(I guess I could mount them on the side of the box though). They look like they might be easier to install though.
Install them on the box not on the door. You will rarely need to replace a fuse.
 
ya those element holes should be 1 1/4" if you didnt know that already. I did mine with o-rings from mcmaster and an electrical box and blank cover from Lowes.

BE EXTRA CAREFUL IF YOU'RE GOING TO USE A CONDUIT PUNCH!

I used a 1-1/4" conduit punch which resulted in a 1-7/8" hole. That why I am all welded, now.
IMAG0226.jpg

w00t!
 
although its a bear you might want to use a hole saw. quite a bit cheaper but it is a lot harder to drill thru stainless. Just use some sort of lube and go slow:)
 
I have access to a large drill press at my work. I used that to drill the other holes. I was able to use regular drill bits for the 7/8 and 9/16 holes but think I will use a step bit for the element holes. Where are you guys putting them on the keg?
 
I have a pickup tube in there and those holes are already drilled. I guess I will have to wait until I have the element to drill those holes.
 
I had a small setback today. My son broke his leg so 2 doctor's visits, x-rays, and a cast cost me $2600 to meet my insurance deductible. I guess I won't be buying anymore parts for the brewery for a while. I will get the control panel put together since I have most the parts I need for that and go from there. I was hoping my next batch would be brewed electrically, I guess it will gas for a few more batches.
 
I had a small setback today. My son broke his leg so 2 doctor's visits, x-rays, and a cast cost me $2600 to meet my insurance deductible. I guess I won't be buying anymore parts for the brewery for a while. I will get the control panel put together since I have most the parts I need for that and go from there. I was hoping my next batch would be brewed electrically, I guess it will gas for a few more batches.

Brian,

man that sucks sorry to hear that. Please let me know if you need anything. I just gt back from a business trip Saturday and worked at our FD's Chicken BBQ most of the day today so no work on my build today. I will keep you posted when I do more on it. Are you going to the Brew Club Meeting Thursday at the HOP SPOT??? Talk to you soon, send an email if you need anything.
 
Brian,

man that sucks sorry to hear that. Please let me know if you need anything. I just gt back from a business trip Saturday and worked at our FD's Chicken BBQ most of the day today so no work on my build today. I will keep you posted when I do more on it. Are you going to the Brew Club Meeting Thursday at the HOP SPOT??? Talk to you soon, send an email if you need anything.

I won't make it I have to work 3-11 this week. I got the holes cut out for my switches last night, I just need to find a way to cut the squares for the PID's.
 
I am thinking jigsaw will be the best option for what I have at my disposal. I have a hi-speed reamer that I have used to ream out 1/4" steel before. I might try that with a small bit after drilling holes in the corners. The lip on the PID is not very big so there isn't much room for error.
 
Got the squares cut with a jigsaw, it worked pretty well. I used files to smooth out the burrs. The jigsaw marred up the front of the box so I guess I will end up painting it. I am at work(yeah I got paid to work on this) so I will try and put up some pictures later. I still need to cut holes for my element and pump receptacles and my RTD connectors.
 
So I finally have everything to finish my control panel(I think). Last night I used a 2" KO punch(punches make things easy) to put holes in for my element receptacles they are a little big so I am just going to cover them up with a cover plate so they look nice. Tonight I hope to get the holes punched for my pump outlets and attach my heat sinks to my ssr's. I bought this power cord from home depot:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...53&langId=-1&keyword=range cord&storeId=10051
I noticed that the ground and neutral wires are only 8 gauge, the hot wires are 6 though. If I have 6 gauge 4 conductor wire to my outlet will this be a problem?
 
that wont be a problem for your 240 outlet because you will never draw much (if any) current through the neutral line.
 
I used a 1" KO punch to put in holes for my pump outlets. I used these for outlets:
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...&langId=-1&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202887036

A 1" punch is just barely too small so I need to use a grinder or something to make the holes a little bigger. I took pictures but forgot to put the memory card in my camera. Tonight I will put in the holes for the RTD panel mount connectors and for the power cord. I hope to get it painted as well. Hopefully I will have pictures tomorrow morning. I am also looking for a way to attach the power cord to the hole in the panel. Any ideas?
 
I used a 1" KO punch to put in holes for my pump outlets. I used these for outlets:
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...&langId=-1&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202887036

A 1" punch is just barely too small so I need to use a grinder or something to make the holes a little bigger. I took pictures but forgot to put the memory card in my camera. Tonight I will put in the holes for the RTD panel mount connectors and for the power cord. I hope to get it painted as well. Hopefully I will have pictures tomorrow morning. I am also looking for a way to attach the power cord to the hole in the panel. Any ideas?

Brian,

I have Green Lee punch set: 1/2", 3/4", 1" ans 1 1/4" if you need to use them for that?
 
1 1/4" would be way too big, I only need like an extra 1/32" all the way around. Did you use those to punch holes in your kegs?
 
Anyone know what size conduit punch to use for the elements?
 
It might be easier to use a smaller punch for the pilot holes
 
If you have the harbor freight conduit punch set, I used the second to largest one for the electric element, I think it's a 1". The 1/2" works great for ball valves, makes a perfect 7/8" hole. I also used the 3/4 to punch the perfect size hole for the pump outlets like you have above. I guess conduit punches and chassis punches are different size.
 
If you have the harbor freight conduit punch set, I used the second to largest one for the electric element, I think it's a 1". The 1/2" works great for ball valves, makes a perfect 7/8" hole. I also used the 3/4 to punch the perfect size hole for the pump outlets like you have above. I guess conduit punches and chassis punches are different size.
Harbor Freight punch sets are "Electrical Conduit Punches" & punch a hole for the conduit fitting.

Here are the stated sizes and the actual hole size:

Die - Actual Hole
1/2" = 7/8"
3/4" = 1-3/32"
1" = 1-11/32"
1-1/4" = 1-11/16"

So, with that stated, be very careful.
 

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