Today I brewed my first cream ale. So basically I put the boiled wort into the ferm bucket and tried to cool it that way, which trying to cool 5 gals in a plastic tube is a lot harder then 3 gal in the pot. Took almost 1 hour to cool the wiry to 75 degrees. Well this effect the outcome of my brew
my first brew
- Thread starter reynoltm
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
davekippen
Well-Known Member
Naaaah. You will be fine. Congrats on the first brew! Trust me, after its done fermenting and conditioning in the bottle, you will love it.
you can pour back and forth from the bucket to the kettle in the future. This will speed cooling and aerate the wort all at the same time. I see an immersion chiller in your future though.
It also took a longer time to boil than I expected. How long after you add the maltose and extract when you just say **** it and start the timer for the 60minute boil. Say after you add the extract 25 minutes later its not boiling can you just start the timer. It eventually came to a boil. I waited by the way. But I figured the cooking time of the wort extended way passed the time required.
Do not do this. There is a lot of debate on whether its real or not, but hot-side aeration is generally regarded as a bad thing.
KPSquared
Well-Known Member
reynoltm said:
I start the timer when I get a full, rolling boil. Throw the 60 min hops in and wait. . . Don't think the longer wait will hurt anything. Just be careful. . .you can drink enough beer during a 60 min boil to really cock up the rest of the procedure. Hard to pick up and shake a carboy if you're half in the bag. . .
Without getting into the boogeyman debate (I bet my mortgage you can't show me an example of an HSA affected beer), I assumed the OP didn't transfer boiling wort into a plastic bucket and it had already been cooled quite a bit before this happened. He complained that it took longer to cool then in his kettle, and if it was cool enough to transfer to plastic, it was cool enough to transfer back into his kettle to speed the cooling.
smh, the boogeyman isn't real, but nevertheless he's damaged my ego. LOL!
In an attempt to restore my HSA affected credibility, I'll contribute this suggestion: Boil the water first. Turn the heat off, stir in your extract, then bring back to a boil and start your timer. You can also add much of the extract later in the boil to avoid the maillard reaction, which, unlike HSA is a very real phenomenon.
(it means that long boils of extract will come out darker then you anticipated!)
davekippen
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I always suck it up and wait for a boil before starting the timer. And I usually only put a small amount of DME in just before I think it is going to boil, that way I dont have to shut it off and wait for it to re heat. I add 80% of both LME and DME either at 10 minutes left, or if its only LME, after flameout.
I'll add mine to that bet. If HSA was of any concern, commercial breweries would be taking measures to not splash their hot wort.
OP, your beer's fine. Not that I'd recommend something like this, but plenty of brewers use a 'no chill' method of cooling wort. I.E., they let it sit at room temp til it's cool enough to pitch. IMO, it's best to cool your wort as quickly as you can, which it sounds like you did..... so cheers!
Agreed. I don't think HSA is real either, but I still don't like the idea of pouring boiling hot wort back and forth to cool it down. I think I misunderstood your previous recommendation.
I'll add mine to that bet. If HSA was of any concern, commercial breweries would be taking measures to not splash their hot wort.
OP, your beer's fine. Not that I'd recommend something like this, but plenty of brewers use a 'no chill' method of cooling wort. I.E., they let it sit at room temp til it's cool enough to pitch. IMO, it's best to cool your wort as quickly as you can, which it sounds like you did..... so cheers!
I read a post over on Northern Brewer the other day on letting wort sit as a substitute for whirlpooling hops which I found rather interesting. The conclusion reached was that rapid cooling vs. slow cooling of wort wasn't necessarily better or worse, just different.
http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93181
No worries, I made the logical leap that the wort was far below boiling temps because I think those buckets are only rated to 150F. Boiling wort into a bucket would cause me other concerns, not at all related to HSA. But I'm not here to worry the OP, his beer is going to be fine IMHO.
ATXweirdobrew
Well-Known Member
The cooling of your wort can affect the cold break or the accumulation of proteins. The lack of a good cold break will cause more proteins to accumulate and cause a chill haze in the finished product. This will affect appearance and the taste in a very small way. It wont be noticeable at your stage of brewing but once you get more advanced then it will start to matter to you like it has to me.
i have done them all. room temp cooling, hot wort aeration, and immersion chilling. all equally effective. the only thing is i havnt done it with the same recipes. so cant tell you what effect it had on my beers. just that it didnt harm the beers themselves.
Yeah, you're talking about an aroma steep for the finishing hops? I do that with a lot of my hoppier beers, let it sit for 10-20 mins after knockout to get all that great aroma, then move on to chilling, etc. Didn't think of that, but it adds an extra 20 or so mins to the 'knockout to pitch' time. No worries.
