stopped fermenting

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greenspider

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Hi group.
I guess for the benefit of everyone I need to start at the beginning;
I'm a complete noob!
8 days (8/21) ago I put five gallons of heavy Scottish ale in the fermenter.
The Muntons instructions said to wait 2 days to transfer it to second stage.
I read on the 'net that I should wait until the bubbling slowed down.
so I waited four days (8/25) then siphoned off the top liquid and transferred to second stage fermentation.
In the first 2 days after the transfer my 'bell' in the airlock was 'floating' indicating that there was gases being produced that were raising it.
By Saturday the bell had fallen and it has stayed down as of now.
I'm very certain that the yeasts have stopped working and I need to know what to do now.
 
If you have a hydrometer use it, it may be done fermenting or it my not . Take a reading three days in a row, if they are the same it's done. And if you don't have a hydrometer, I would suggest getting one. I have only been brewing for a short time but I have learned it is on of the most valuable tools of the craft.
 
Let it sit for at least another week, if not two. Your yeast IS still working and it has a LOT left to do :) You can't visually tell when yeast is or isn't working, much less when it's finished. You need a hydrometer.
 
You really need to take a hydrometer reading for two reasons. The first is you racked too soon thereby removing the majority of yeast and secondly, you are using Munton's which is notorious for quitting early.

I have a strong suspicion that your fermentation may have stalled. The danger in that is if you bottle it could wake up the yeast with explosive consequences. We do not want that to happen. Take a reading so you know for sure. You may have to gently swirl your fermenter to get the yeast back to work.

Assuming your gravity is were it's suppose to be, wait a couple weeks and bottle up.
 
That is 6.5% alcohol not 1%. :)
Sounds like you have reached FG. I'm surprised by that simply because Munton's doesn't usually get under 1.018. Anyhoo, leave your beer alone for another week or two (two is better) and let it finish clearing. Bottle it and wait another 3 weeks and you will have beer.
 
Hi.

I've only just started too, but are you sure about those readings? That is almost 6.5% abv by my calculation?

My recent first batch went from 1.05 to 1.02 (give or take 0.001 on each). It's higher than I'd like, but I did use Munton's as well. Pitched more yeast after it stayed at 1.02 for a few days, and it never dropped again. For my second batch, completed a few minutes ago, I did a Wyeast starter and all, so hoping for better luck. Starting gravity seemed slightly low, but I did add nearly 2 quarts of starter *before* taking the measurement.

edit: beat me to it. Had to register. :)
 
Hi.

I've only just started too, but are you sure about those readings? That is almost 6.5% abv by my calculation?

My recent first batch went from 1.05 to 1.02 (give or take 0.001 on each). It's higher than I'd like, but I did use Munton's as well. Pitched more yeast after it stayed at 1.02 for a few days, and it never dropped again. For my second batch, completed a few minutes ago, I did a Wyeast starter and all, so hoping for better luck. Starting gravity seemed slightly low, but I did add nearly 2 quarts of starter *before* taking the measurement.

edit: beat me to it. Had to register. :)

Welcome to HBT!

We call it the 1.020 curse. Here I have used Munton's in two replies and have yet to mention how much I dislike it. It took me way to many batches before I got wise and switch to better yeast. Just so you know, there are lots of good dry yeasts so don't give up on them.
 
Thanks, I tried the Wyeast German 3333 for a wheat beer this time. I was shooting for 1.047 but got 1.042ish. Could the nearly 2 quarts of starter, started days earlier make that difference?

Don't mean to threadjack, but I think the original poster is probably in great shape. :)
 
Okay, I just looked at my hydrom. it is an ALLA, made in France.
On the side it startys at the top with 0.999 and going down the tube it next reads;1.000.
To the right of that marking (1.000) is the potential ABV and it reads 0%.
My current reading id the next mark down from 1.000; being 1.010, and to the right of that is 1 % ABV.
On mu hydrom I would need to be near 1.040 to be at 5% ABV.
Am I reading this wrong?
 
Okay, I just looked at my hydrom. it is an ALLA, made in France.
On the side it startys at the top with 0.999 and going down the tube it next reads;1.000.
To the right of that marking (1.000) is the potential ABV and it reads 0%.
My current reading id the next mark down from 1.000; being 1.010, and to the right of that is 1 % ABV.
On mu hydrom I would need to be near 1.040 to be at 5% ABV.
Am I reading this wrong?

I believe that the ABV scale is to be used when you take you OG reading to give you an estimated final ABV.
 
Does that assume you make it down to 1.010 or so?

OP: To calculate the ABV, subtract the final gravity from the original and multiply it by 129 (have also read 131).
 
OG - FG x 131 is the formula I've always seen. I just put it in Beer Smith and it tells me what it is. :D

That potential alcohol scale on a tri-scale hydrometer is pretty much worthless for beer brewing.
 
Thanks guys.
I get it now.
forget about the potential alcohol scale, right?
So as long as I stay at the 1.010 for the next coupla days then it is done fermenting?
Or should I wait weeks like one poster said? That seems long, I was hoping to be drinking this stuff sooner than that :(
 
Once you bottle you're going to be waiting at least two weeks just for the stuff to carbonate. Do what I did during this first batch.... go buy something else to drink while you wait on your beer to properly finish :)
 
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