Grinder12000
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What does one gain from an extended biol time ???
90 minute vs. 60 minute boil???
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Whisler85
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Melanoidin flavors, a little more bitterness from your bittering hops (if they are boiled the whole time), a lot less flavor/aroma from your bittering hops (useful if making, say, a scotch ale where hop flavor/aroma are undesired)
also reduces dimethyl sulfide (DMS), the smell you get from canned corn- good to reduce this in light pilseners
also, i often end up using more mash/sparge water than i wanted due to temperature adjustment, so its useful in hitting your target gravity- if the gravity is too low, just keep boiling!
also reduces dimethyl sulfide (DMS), the smell you get from canned corn- good to reduce this in light pilseners
also, i often end up using more mash/sparge water than i wanted due to temperature adjustment, so its useful in hitting your target gravity- if the gravity is too low, just keep boiling!
So that you can boil off more wort?
I usually boil until I'm at 6 gallons, the add my 60 minute hops and start timing. You can get a few more IBUs out of boiling them for as long as 75 minutes, but not much.
The only time I plan on a 90 minute boil are when one of two things is true:
1. Using pilsner malt. If I'm using pilsner malt, everything I've read says to do a 90 minute boil to boil off more DMS. I don't know if this is always needed, but it's what I do.
2. In a bigger beer, my efficiency decreases quite a bit (and it's not great as it is) so I'll do a longer boil and try to increase my sparge runnings. This works well, because I'm using more grain and should actually use more sparge water as a result. So, I'll sparge more and boil longer to get closer to my intended OG.
I usually boil until I'm at 6 gallons, the add my 60 minute hops and start timing. You can get a few more IBUs out of boiling them for as long as 75 minutes, but not much.
The only time I plan on a 90 minute boil are when one of two things is true:
1. Using pilsner malt. If I'm using pilsner malt, everything I've read says to do a 90 minute boil to boil off more DMS. I don't know if this is always needed, but it's what I do.
2. In a bigger beer, my efficiency decreases quite a bit (and it's not great as it is) so I'll do a longer boil and try to increase my sparge runnings. This works well, because I'm using more grain and should actually use more sparge water as a result. So, I'll sparge more and boil longer to get closer to my intended OG.
I have this feeling we've discussed this before.
OH YA...>WE DID.....IN YOUR THREAD WITH THE SAME ****ING NAME!
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/search.php?searchid=2587197
and one day before that...someone else asked it....here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/90min-vs-60min-boil-87058/
Maybe a mod could combine all of these or something...just so you don't get confused and start yet another.
OH YA...>WE DID.....IN YOUR THREAD WITH THE SAME ****ING NAME!
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/search.php?searchid=2587197
and one day before that...someone else asked it....here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/90min-vs-60min-boil-87058/
Maybe a mod could combine all of these or something...just so you don't get confused and start yet another.
OP
OP
Grinder12000
Well-Known Member
Well - I searched and found nothing. I even searched 60 vs. 90 minute boil and found nothing - get off your high horse again BIG.
Seriously - get over it and deal with it.
I SWEAR Yoop - he just waits for me to mess up - I'm glad he is the cop here!! Good God!
Seriously - get over it and deal with it.
I SWEAR Yoop - he just waits for me to mess up - I'm glad he is the cop here!! Good God!
BarleyWater
Well-Known Member
I think it smells like corn tortillas...
But ya, pretty much all of those reasons are the answer. I always boil for 90 minutes to get better effeciency and to allow for more malliard reactions in my beers, giving a toastier malt profile. And if you've ever brewed with pilsner malt, you will understand why you want to ake sure you boil off all the nasty SMM (DMS precursor), it smells like corn tortillas.
EDIT: This is assuming ya'll up north know what corn tortillas smell like. I eat them on a regular basis, but I also eat a lot of Mexican food, which may not be the case for the rest of you.
No, it's ok. Sometimes questions come up, and we don't want to dissuade people from asking questions.
Let's keep this friendly and not allow be nitpicky about who starts what thread. I read all the threads, but I don't see much duplication.
100% agree.
Sorry, and I didn't ever mean to dissuade anyone that may be reading this. These are questions that are worth talking about.
.
Hugh_Jass
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In last night's brew session, I missed my beginning water add.(stupid noob mistake added too much water). The brew was a partial mash, DME, and LME. The boil time was supposed to be 60 min, but I had already added my DME, wort from the mini-mash, brought to a boil and added the first hops before I realized there was NO WAY that that much liquid would boil down to 5.5 gallon. Instead of adding the remaining hops on their schedule, I delayed the rest of the hop adds by 15 min. The first hops were boiled an additional 15 min, but the rest were added on schedule (20 and zero). Bottom line - the wort was boiled an additional 15 min with the first hops. Hit the anticipated O.G. on the nose. How will this affect the beer? Beginning hops were Williamette Pellets. Thanks in advance.
<edited for clarification>
That actually sounds fine. You may get just a little more IBUs (bitterness) from a 75 minute hop addition rather than 60 minutes, but it's a very small difference. If you have the correct amount of volume, and the anticipated OG, I don't think you'll even be able to discern any difference at all.
Hugh_Jass
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Thanks Yooper. Anything you would have changed in procedure besides adding less water in the beginning?
UnaBonger
Well-Known Member
So the clock starts ticking when the bittering hops hit the wort?
I've been meaning to ask something similar... When doing an extract batch, I wasn't sure when to start the clock... An example is, I brewed an extract this past weekend. In that batch (and previous ones) I steeped some grains and brought it to a boil (and here's my confusion), then brought the pot off the heat to add and stir in DME (to avoid scorching) then put back on heat and brought back to a boil and add hops... My confusion lies in which boil do I start the clock?
I think Yooper's statement may have answered my question...
Thanks Yooper. Anything you would have changed in procedure besides adding less water in the beginning?
Nope, it sounds like you adjusted just fine!
Yes, the clock starts when your bittering hops go in, assuming you're doing a "usual" 60 minute hops addition.
As to your boil time, your boil time starts when those first bittering hops (the 60 minute ones) hit the wort. Usually, you don't bring your grains up to a boil. I think you'll like the results better if you steep the grains at 150-160 degrees for 20 minutes, then remove the grains and turn the heat up. Add the DME (off the heat) and then bring it up to a boil. Then add your hops and start timing.
UnaBonger
Well-Known Member
Yes, that is the method I used... I wasn't clear. I should have said I steeped some grains THEN brought it up to a boil... Thanks for clearing up my confusion.
Wish I had read this thread about a 90 minute boil instead of a 60 minute boil for using Pilsner malt. I brewed an all grain cream ale style recipe last weekend where I had to substitute using Pilsner malt instead of regular 2-row and only did a 60 minute boil.
Any idea if this 60 minute boil will dramatically affect the outcome?
Any idea if this 60 minute boil will dramatically affect the outcome?
Here is the recipe I used:
Speckled Cow Cream Ale
(4 gallon recipe, All grain, single infusion batch sparging)
5 lb Pilsner Malt (instead of standard 2-row)
0.5 lb Flaked barley
0.5 lb carapils
0.5 lb crystal 40L
0.5 lb flaked corn
0.5 oz Cluster (60 min)
0.5 oz Cluster (30 min)
US-05 yeast or Wyeast American Ale 1056
Speckled Cow Cream Ale
(4 gallon recipe, All grain, single infusion batch sparging)
5 lb Pilsner Malt (instead of standard 2-row)
0.5 lb Flaked barley
0.5 lb carapils
0.5 lb crystal 40L
0.5 lb flaked corn
0.5 oz Cluster (60 min)
0.5 oz Cluster (30 min)
US-05 yeast or Wyeast American Ale 1056
Assuming you got a nice hard boil, and then chilled quickly, you should be ok. I don't really know of too many people who actually get DMS from only boiling 60 minutes instead of 90 minutes.
The boil was no problem but the chilling process was left up to mother nature and convection cooling in the 12 F air. Can't run my immersion chiller via my garden hose this time of year. I set my brew kettle on several blocks of ice to aid in the chilling process but it still took about 40+ minutes to get it under 75 F.
Guess I will see how it turns out in 6 weeks. Thanks for getting back to me on this orevious thread.
Guess I will see how it turns out in 6 weeks. Thanks for getting back to me on this orevious thread.
Buy a faucet adapter. You can find an adapter for almost any size at your local hardware store. You can find one to hook up to a shower if you take the head off.
Soooo, let's just say I'm making a barleywine. The only reason I want a long boil is for the efficiency's sake?
I was thinking of 75min. Is that too short? My recipe: http://hopville.com/recipe/447349/english-barleywine-recipes/barleywine
I was thinking of 75min. Is that too short? My recipe: http://hopville.com/recipe/447349/english-barleywine-recipes/barleywine
I'm in the same boat. I'm going to fill a large tote with some cold water, shovel in some snow and put my kettle in there to cool outside in the 0 degree weather we will be experiencing this weekend. Just got to make sure it all doesn't freeze solid
UncleJohnnys
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Calichusetts
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