who could drill my kettle hole

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doubleb

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I don't want to do this myself cause I don't have any of the bits, safety glasses, cutting oil, file, and I don't have anything to brace the kettle w/. So I want to hire someone but I'm concerned about going to wrong person for the job and getting screwed.

I do know a homebrewer mechanic and may ask him for advise when I see him on Tuesday if all else fails. Anyone here know a sure kind of place to go?

Thanks
 
any friend with a drill.

really, not that hard at all. if you really want to hire out, try calling any handy-man services in your area. I know my Mother-in-Law knows a good handyman service in Rowayton.
 
If your friend is mechanically inclined, as you said, then I would be willing to bet he can do it. Like Berserker said, its pretty easy. You can get a set of step drill bits at homedepot for like ~$30. Bracing it can be a pain, but it really just takes patience.
 
I was very hesitant to drill mine as well but I shouldn't have been. I finally convinced myself to try it and and I would suggest you give it a go. It is very easy. You can get the titanium step bits from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96275. I got mine on sale for $15 and they worked great. My 18V cordless drill had more than enough power. You can use Pam cooking spray on the drill bit and a piece of masking tape to mark and start your drill point. It takes all of 3 minutes to drill a hole in a kettle. You just drill it really slow with a lot of pressure. I held my pot on the ground between my legs, worked fine. If you were closer, I would certainly offer to drill yours.
 
Thanks for the replies. Its very tempting to go ahead and get the bits myself. I'm not the best DIY handyman type. I'm terribly accident prone and get stressed out easily if something goes wrong. I've got mixed feelings still. Swmbo convinced me to hire out yesterday, but maybe I'll freakin do it.

OK, so holding it between your legs is OK and will work right (with a piece of masking tape)? And just to be clear about everything I'll need

Kettle (got it)
Legs for bracing (still attached to me)
Pam (got it already)
masking tape (have it)
titanium step bit (not positive of the size yet)
safety glasses (I'm accident prone)
titanium pilot drill bit (do I need this)
file (to make the hole slightly larger if needed)

I got this to add to the kettle. http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/s-s-kettle-valve-kit-w-barb.html

Anything else you think I need to make this an easy as possible 5 or so minutes of my life?
 
Is the kettle aluminum or stainless? If aluminum you can punch a starter spot instead of drilling. I see no need for masking tape or Pam. If Alum, it's very soft and easy to drill, I did mine with a step bit and a cordless drill. Just go slow when you get close to size and check after every step.
 
Is the kettle aluminum or stainless? If aluminum you can punch a starter spot instead of drilling. I see no need for masking tape or Pam. If Alum, it's very soft and easy to drill, I did mine with a step bit and a cordless drill. Just go slow when you get close to size and check after every step.

Its a economy SS pot.
 
One tip to make your drilling a lot easier, mark your center spot and hit with a nail punch to leave a little indentation - the hardest part can be just getting the drill started.
 
Its a economy SS pot.

You should still be able to use a center punch and hammer and just peck a small indent in it, that will hold the stepbit until it starts cutting.

Hell, I used a 16d common to ding mine, but i'm wicked good with a hammer.:D
 
I did the nail-punch dot, then small pilot hole, then step bit.

Most important thing is to go slow and hard <giggle> because you don't want to stainless to get too hot and temper. That will make it hard and impossible to drill (hee hee).

Anyone else think the thread title was just a clever euphemism? (in spite of my snickering above, I do mean the information!)
 
Thanks for the replies. Its very tempting to go ahead and get the bits myself. I'm not the best DIY handyman type. I'm terribly accident prone and get stressed out easily if something goes wrong. I've got mixed feelings still. Swmbo convinced me to hire out yesterday, but maybe I'll freakin do it.

OK, so holding it between your legs is OK and will work right (with a piece of masking tape)? And just to be clear about everything I'll need

Kettle (got it)
Legs for bracing (still attached to me)
Pam (got it already)
masking tape (have it)
titanium step bit (not positive of the size yet)
safety glasses (I'm accident prone)
titanium pilot drill bit (do I need this)
file (to make the hole slightly larger if needed)

I got this to add to the kettle. http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/s-s-kettle-valve-kit-w-barb.html

Anything else you think I need to make this an easy as possible 5 or so minutes of my life?

I didn't need a file or a pilot drill bit. If you get the step bits from Harbor that I linked, the larger one is fine for the entire job. I also didn't need to punch or hammer anything to start the hole, the masking tape held my bit in place as I started. Once the tiny hole is started you push down harder with each ring of the step bit. I definitely suggest a spray of Pam before you start to keep the bit lubricated and not as hot. Once the hole is the size you need, you can wiggle the bit around slightly on the inside and outside of the hole to clean up any shavings that are left over. With each step you can see if your valve fits. Once it does, stop drilling. I had never used a step bit before and I drilled 5 holes in a stainless steel pot and lids in about 10 minutes.
 
I did the nail-punch dot, then small pilot hole, then step bit.

Most important thing is to go slow and hard <giggle> because you don't want to stainless to get too hot and temper. That will make it hard and impossible to drill (hee hee).

Anyone else think the thread title was just a clever euphemism? (in spite of my snickering above, I do mean the information!)

+1 on all counts.. (hehehe)

Anyway, yeah, slow and steady and try not to le tthe bit spin without removing metal as that can work harden the area.

One recommendation not mentioned is to tape the pot lid in place with duct tape. Even though you're drilling near the base where there is plenty of support, it's not hard to taco a thin kettle. Taping the lid in place will give a little more support all the way around.
 
Lay a couple 2x4's on the ground parallel to each other and set the kettle on it's side between then. This will help it from rolling left to right if your foot happens to slip away a bit.
 
If you're not comfortable with the step bit DON'T BUY THE HARBOR FREIGHT BIT!! Spend a couple extra bucks on the one from depot or lowes. I'm a very accomplished DIYer and have worked in the construction industry off and on for years. I tried the harbor freight bit with tons of cutting oil and very slow speeds and only got 2 holes before it shot craps. Granted I was cutting a Keggle, so I ended up getting a proper sized hole saw and it was no problem. Just had to clean out the hole a little with a die grinder, but would have had to do that with the step bit too, you can use a file. Good luck! Or if you're going for welded fittings, just have the shop doing your welding cut the holes for you.
 
If you're not comfortable with the step bit DON'T BUY THE HARBOR FREIGHT BIT!! Spend a couple extra bucks on the one from depot or lowes. I'm a very accomplished DIYer and have worked in the construction industry off and on for years. I tried the harbor freight bit with tons of cutting oil and very slow speeds and only got 2 holes before it shot craps. Granted I was cutting a Keggle, so I ended up getting a proper sized hole saw and it was no problem. Just had to clean out the hole a little with a die grinder, but would have had to do that with the step bit too, you can use a file. Good luck! Or if you're going for welded fittings, just have the shop doing your welding cut the holes for you.

Some people have had good luck with the Harbor step bit, some people have not. I suppose that is what you get with a product made in China, inconsistent results. Personally, I doubt I will ever use the step bit again so for me, $15 bucks was the way to go and I got a great result. If it had crapped out on me I would have taken it back to the brick and mortar Harbor I bought it from and gotten a refund. If I was going to use the bit a lot in the future, I would have shelled out for a Unibit.
 
I used a standard metal bit and Spit to drill my ball valve hole in my Keggle. Just do it.

Yeah, the step bits are nice but not entirely necessary. I just bought the right-sized metal bit and went to town. The step bit doesn't make a better hole, it's not going to be any easier to use, it just means you only have to buy one bit for a variety of hole sizes for different projects. If you're buying a Harbor Freight bit that you're only expecting to last for one or two uses, what's the advantage of that?
 
Sorry to break the bone yard genre that was going, but the OP mentioned his concern about bracing the kettle. I was drilling my newly acquired sankes yesterday and today and came up with a decent method that worked great...

easy stand.jpg

I rested it in a cooler. Make sure that the end you are drilling is OPPOSITE the end of cooler that has wheels (if your cooler has wheels)
 
Squirt your long wet hose when drilling holes...

Err... Seriously - run your garden hose on the cutting site when drilling the kettle hole. Part of the problem with SS is that it work hardens very quickly - water prevents this. I drilled two keggles in no time flat with a cordless drill and HF step bit - ran water over the site and kept everything cool.
 
The stuff came in today. I got to get over to the hardware store and pick up the parts. Hoping I can bust out the drill tomorrow or Monday. Will post results. Thanks for all the advise.
 
:ban: :ban: :ban:

Here is the wrap-up...

It is done. I went to my local Lowe's and got a Unibit and a titanium pilot bit. I ended up putting my knee inside the kettle and knelt on the kettle which was on the deck (not the best brace, but it worked). The hardest part was getting the drill to stay put to start the hole. My hole ended up a millimeter or two away from my mark which is fine w/ me. Once I got the hole started I just pressed hard and went really slow and sprayed Pam once in a while. Once I had the pilot hole the Unibit took care of the rest with ease. At one point I got to see some smoke and at that point I thought to myself, I'm glad I decided to do this myself. The Unibit was so easy to use.

Thank you all for the replies. I couldn't have done it with out your encouragement. Here's to many more holes I'll be drilling. :mug:
 
Wasn't so bad, was it?

The drill bit walking around is why I recommended hitting it with a nail punch; didntcha listen to me? ;)

The word punch freaked me a bit ;), so I stayed away from it this time. When the next opportunity to use a nail punch comes by I'll check them out.
 
Good job! You would have felt like a Wuss if you would have had someone else do it for you.

You're probably right. I'd also feel like my wife made my decision for me. Doing it myself was the best way cause now I've got some cool new bits and a file I didn't use. ;)
 
I need help on this too!
Let me tell you how i do my brew.
I have just one alumino pot, its hold 50L (13gal) i do my mash in there over the stove, then i move the grains to my botltling bucket and sparge the wort in my pot to boil it, after the boil done, i coll it down, and with a hose i siphon it to the carboy.
I need to know, can i put a ball lock in this pot and a ss braid on it, to mash the grains and boil the wort? when the boils done, just open the valve and the hops will been filter? Its need to be a special ball lock? i was loooking one i few days ago, and the ball inside is made with plastic. it will dont melt during the boil?
or perhaps i should just buy another pot to do it?
need help pleasse!
 
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