Keezer Collar Question

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BrothersTrout

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I just have a quick question regarding the many keezers I've seen on this site. I've ordered the last of the parts I need for mine, so construction will start next week (the second the UPS guy leaves). Everything I've seen online so far has a 2x4 collar with a 2x6 around it. The 2x4 just sits on the freezer, and the 2x6 extends a bit down the front to hold it all in place. But most of the keezer designs around here have the collar flush on the freezer, which is what I want to do.

So the million dollar question is... how did you secure the collar to the lid? :confused:

Thanks!
 
The lid can be screwed into the collar. What I think you are asking is how to attach the wood to the top of the freezer. Silicone caulking has worked well for some, others put the 2x6 inside the freezer where it can't be seen and just let the weight of the lid hold everything on.
 
What I think you are asking is how to attach the wood to the top of the freezer.

Ideally, I'd secure the collar to the lid, and move the lid seal onto the bottom edge of the collar, so the shanks are out of the way when the lid is open to change kegs.

I didn't realize there was solid enough structure in the lid to just screw the wood directly into it, that's good to know. Of course, there's always Liquid Nails too, I suppose. Hell, that might just be a better solution...

Thanks for the input!

~JT
 
If you go with a 2x12 you probably will be able to reclaim the space on the compressor hump for a couple of cornies. I recommend it.
 
+1 to brothers. check these.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll153/beerthirty_01/DSCN2256.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll153/beerthirty_01/DSCN2254.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll153/beerthirty_01/DSCN2255.jpg
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll153/beerthirty_01/DSCN2257.jpg
I don't have to lift over the actual freezer height to load, lines are out of the way, and the hump stores bottles.
sorry missed the question. silicone its almost as magic as duct tape.

Nice job. Is that Johnson controller rated for high moisture environments? If not, the innards will rust.
 
Looks good, BeerThirty! So you just secured the collar to the lid with silicone caulk? What size wood did you use for your collar - looks almost like 2x6?

Mr. EdWort sir (it's an honor for you to respond to one of my posts), wouldn't you think a 2x12 could be pushing the limits of the average hinges?
 
FWIW-
I used a $7.00 Pine 2x6 painted with $2.00 worth of Rustoleum paint. Secured to the FREEZER with a tube of Tub and Tile Caulk, then ran a bead on the inside seams just for good measure, the lid hinges were relocated to the collar. I'm pretty big guy, and not really worried about lifting a full cornie over the collar.
 
I used 2x10s and secured them to the freezer base with silicone. It seems to hold very well.

Those that suggested attaching it to the lid might be on to something, but I don't know if the weight would hold on the hinges. Plus it would be a bigger pain to lift up. The efficiency might go down as well because you'd be losing a little bit more cold air. I do find it a pain to reach over my tap handles to get into it though.
 
I used two sets of 1x4. The inner box rests in a groove around the upper lip of the freezer. For the outer box, the sides are about 1/2 inch longer than the front & back and are on the outside of the freezer. The back is attached using the lid hinges. The space between the two boxes is filled with window & door spray foam. This forms the seal as well.

There are pictures in my gallery.
 
Looks good, BeerThirty! So you just secured the collar to the lid with silicone caulk? What size wood did you use for your collar - looks almost like 2x6?

Mr. EdWort sir (it's an honor for you to respond to one of my posts), wouldn't you think a 2x12 could be pushing the limits of the average hinges?

I used 3/4"plywood scavenged from concrete forms, cut to 6" high, just sanded the cement remnants off which also removed most of the form oil. I doubled the plywood up on the back side to give hinge support. Due to any remaining oil(a little afraid adhesive wouldn't stick) I used corner brackets on the outside of the corners and used the trim to cover the brackets. I used 100% silicone caulk in the corners and a solid bead around the top edge to secure it to the lid. I also siliconed the seal to the bottom of the collar. Excess silicone was trimmed off after drying for 24 hours. With a solid bead and clean surfaces the parts will not come apart without cutting through the silicone. I used an oil base stain(so it would stick to residual form oil on the wood) and sealed with polyurethane. Regulators are the $6 perlicks from A.S.S. The most expensive part of this project were the ball/check valves mounted on the bottom of the regulators.

Ed, that controller was given to me, the black coil mounted to the left side of the controller is the temp probe. The fan is positioned to help move air across both coil and box in an attempt to help keep it dry and circulate air in the freezer. When it dies then I will buy a more appropriate model.
 
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