Helles Bock "Hellofa Beer" - Bock Maibock/Hellesbock

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dlester

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2007
Messages
575
Reaction score
38
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Recipe Type
All Grain
Yeast
WYeast 2206 Bavarian Lager
Yeast Starter
2000 MG
Batch Size (Gallons)
11
Original Gravity
1.07
Final Gravity
1.017
Boiling Time (Minutes)
90
IBU
28%
Color
3.2 light
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
30 @ 50
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
14 @ 35
Tasting Notes
Light, slightly malty and sweet with balanced hops. See tasting notes below
Name: Hellofa Beer

Style: Bock Maibock/Hellesbock



Notes:
---------------
This is a really good beer, strong malty base with balanced hops. Tastes very good, and is in fact, my favorite, malty and high alcohol (6.25% to 7% depending on mash efficiency). I would put this up against any commercial beer. Definitely a candidate for a competition..

This all grain recipe requires a decoction, but you can boil 1/2 gallon down until condensed at boil instead. I will post an extract version, which you can add an extra pound of grain that can be boiled to give the same effect as an all grain.

IMPORTANT: After brewing this multiple times (see blog). Part of the success of this beer is the water profile listed below and yeast. If you compromise this part, you'll compromise the taste (see below). I used Mr. Malty's Yeast Calculator and calculated two viles of yeast in a 1/2 to 1 gallon starter. This along with using RO Water and Gypsum gave the beer the perfect dryness you find in a Bock Beer.

PS. My brewery pumps out a constant efficiency of 82%. If you are not sure of your efficiency, assume 65% to 75%. This means that if you use my recipe "as-is," you'll get an ABV that is less than 7%, and most likely around 6.5%, which is actually a perfect ABV in my opinion.

Good Luck.

Recipe Specifics
----------------
Batch Size (Gal): 11.00 Wort Size (Gal): 11.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 25.50
Anticipated OG: 1.070 Plato: 17.03
Anticipated SRM: 3.2
Anticipated IBU: 27.6
Brewhouse Efficiency: 82 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
------------------------------------------------------------------
94.1 24.00 lbs. Pilsener (Weyermann) Germany 1.037 1
5.9 1.50 lbs. CaraPils Dextrine Malt USA 1.033 2

Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-------------------------------------------------------------------
0.50 oz. Magnum Pellet 13.10 13.3 60 min.
2.00 oz. Czech Saaz Pellet 3.50 14.3 60 min.
Note: Magnum is cheaper (higher IBU) and neutral in flavor. Saaz is the flavor compound.
However, is lower in IBU, which requires a higher volume and higher cost. You can go all
Czech Saaz if you would like. The hop flavor will come through slightly more.

Yeast
-----
German Bock or Helles Bock Yeast x2 plus added to a 1/2 to 1 gallon starter.

Water Profile
-------------
RO (Reverse Osmosis) Water
2 Tsp Gypsum (1 Tsp per 5-6 gallon), or 50 PPM.

Mashing
Mash-out Rest Temp: 154 Time: 60 See mash notes
Sparge Temp: 170 Time: 45

I like to dough in at 133°F and raise the wart to Mash temps to help clarify the beer, but you don't have to do this step.

Mash Notes
----------
Mash at 154°F for 60 minutes
Sparge at 170°

Time to boil: After a complete sparge, take out 1/2 gallon of wort, bring to a boil until it starts to condense, however don't burn it. This will replicate the decoction mashing used in this style.
Boil wort 90 Minutes with hop additions while cooking down the 1/2 gallon of wort pulled and boiled for decoction replication.


Fermentation Notes
------------------
Place your cooled wort and yeast starter in the fridge at about 45°. When the wort and yeast have cooled to 45° combine the wort and yeast.
Reset your temp controller to 50° and allow the temp to rise to 50°. This step will avoid diacetyl production, which will make your beer taste like an ale (buttery flavors).
7-10 days at 50°F or until final gravity of approximately 1.017-1.018.
Slowly move your temp up to 65F for adiacetyl rest (this step will remove small amounts of diacetyl). Hold for 3 days.
28-30°F for 30 days: Slowly move your temp down a couple degrees every few hours until you reach the assigned temperature. DO NOT "crash" the temp down, you will kill the yeast (Value $12.00). The yeast will continue to work, but slowly, during this time period.
15-30 days hold for Lagering period.
Fermentation complete.
 
Competition results:

This won Silver at the recent 2012 ASH Oktoberfest Homebrew Competition out of nine entries. One judge wanted more hops, but that was just one opinion of two. However, with that said, I'm going to make some changes for the next competition.

Changes:

I am going to try original gravity of 1.065 and 1.060 with the same 25 IBU to see if I can get a Gold out of this recipe.

My reasoning is that although this beer is supposed to be malty, I want to tone it down, and bring up the hop bitterness a bit.
 
Yes, thanks for asking. Check out my Beer Blog "Quest for the Holy Grail of Beers." I finally got the dryness required for this type of beer by using the correct volume and type of yeast. The key is the yeast. You need to make a starter with 2 packets/vials. I used the Mr. Malty's yeast calculator (google it) to determine the correct amount of yeast. That my friend, was my key to a correctly made Bock.


Cheers,
 
Yes, thanks for asking. Check out my Beer Blog "Quest for the Holy Grail of Beers." I finally got the dryness required for this type of beer by using the correct volume and type of yeast. The key is the yeast. You need to make a starter with 2 packets/vials. I used the Mr. Malty's yeast calculator (google it) to determine the correct amount of yeast. That my friend, was my key to a correctly made Bock.


Cheers,


My end goal is to make a batch close to Spaten's
 
I'm getting ready to brew a Maibock, and am looking into water treatment with RO water, like you did.

In your first post, during the discussion of it above the recipe, you say you used CaCl... However, in the recipe itself, you say to use Gypsum (CaSO4)... Which is it? (or both?) I'm guessing CaCl, since that enhances maltiness, whereas Gypsum enhances bitterness.
Thanks for the clarification! Looks like a great beer...
 
I'm getting ready to brew a Maibock, and am looking into water treatment with RO water, like you did.

In your first post, during the discussion of it above the recipe, you say you used CaCl... However, in the recipe itself, you say to use Gypsum (CaSO4)... Which is it? (or both?) I'm guessing CaCl, since that enhances maltiness, whereas Gypsum enhances bitterness.
Thanks for the clarification! Looks like a great beer...

The recipe is part of my search to make the perfect Maibock. I started with RO and CaCl, but it was too soft and malty sweet. I changed to RO water and Gypsum and think it's perfect. I won second place with the Calcium Chloride, but prefer the Gypsum. You get a real nice dryness found in a bock. I use 3 grams or 2 teaspoons per 5-6 gallons.

You can read my trials and errors on my blog. Look for "Helles Bock - My Quest for the Holy Grail of Beer."


Good Luck, and Cheers
 
I'm getting ready to brew a Maibock, and am looking into water treatment with RO water, like you did.

In your first post, during the discussion of it above the recipe, you say you used CaCl... However, in the recipe itself, you say to use Gypsum (CaSO4)... Which is it? (or both?) I'm guessing CaCl, since that enhances maltiness, whereas Gypsum enhances bitterness.
Thanks for the clarification! Looks like a great beer...

Thank's FatsSchinee for the heads up on the water chemistry conflict. I found the error and fixed it.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I was leaning toward adding both, with about a 2:1 ratio of CaCl to gypsum... Might have to reconsider that now!

Also, I'm toying with the idea of a single decoction as well. Never done one. You said you took it out at about forty minutes, and then brought to a boil. Did you wait and put it back in toward the end, and did that raise the total mash temp up for a mash out? You also mentioned keeping the mash at 154 for 60 minutes, so just wondering how you did that with the decoction...

Thanks for the info!
 
Thanks for the clarification. I was leaning toward adding both, with about a 2:1 ratio of CaCl to gypsum... Might have to reconsider that now!

Also, I'm toying with the idea of a single decoction as well. Never done one. You said you took it out at about forty minutes, and then brought to a boil. Did you wait and put it back in toward the end, and did that raise the total mash temp up for a mash out? You also mentioned keeping the mash at 154 for 60 minutes, so just wondering how you did that with the decoction...

Thanks for the info!

Do only Gypsum, you will love it. Try mixing on a second batch. Don't have to do decoction. At boil, draw off a half gallon of wort and hard boil until it is almost syrup and add back to end of boil. Boil wort 90 minutes and make sure you have a lot of healthy yeast.
 
PS. FatsSchindee, I mixed Gypsum and Calcium Chloride similar to your ratio a few brews ago. It didn't work.


Cheers,
 
PS. FatsSchindee, I mixed Gypsum and Calcium Chloride similar to your ratio a few brews ago. It didn't work.


Cheers,


I am doing Gypsum Epsom CaCl with an extract and RO (Ca 74 / Mg 5 / Cl 81 / SO4 88)

What types of concentrations were you using ?
 
Epsom salt will dull the brightness. Epsom is great with dark beers, but not a light beer. Go get a light beer and drop some in and try it. I don't think it's appropriate for the style.
The CaCl is great for light beers, however not a bock. Your trying to get a dryness that only Gypsum can obtain. When you use CaCl you get a very soft "wet" feel, which is opposite of Gypsum.
I've done Gypsum and CaCl multiple times and concluded that Gypsum alone will give you the dryness. Regarding concentrations? I use 3 grams of Gypsum per 5-6 gallons and it's perfect (don't have the software to calculate it, not sure I care). Stay away from the others. After your done fermenting and have a glass of beer in front of you, that is the time to experiment with adding Epsom and CaCl to see if your idea works or not.

Trust me on this, I've done many versions using different concentrations and Gypsum alone won.


Cheers,
 
Nice

This water was RODI and was for a NB Irish red ale extract brewed as a lager.

Seems like it's more critical with mash/all grain?

Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Nice

This water was RODI and was for a NB Irish red ale extract brewed as a lager.

Seems like it's more critical with mash/all grain?

Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Your water profile makes sense for the Irish Red Ale. The Helles Bock is about simplicity KISS (keep it simple stupid), you don't want adjuncts or crystal grains for this style. It's really a great beer when done correctly.


Cheers,
 
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