Extract Recipe with No Yeast??

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wewantutopia

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Hi everyone! First post here.

I got a Mr. Beer for xmas but have already moved past using the Mr. Beer kits.

I've found this recipe that sounds pretty good:


Ingredients:
0.5 lbs amber crystal, steep until boil
6 lbs. English light malt extract: boil 60 min.
1 oz. Galena (11% a.a.): boil 60 min
1 oz. Willamette whole leaf hops (4% a.a.): boil 10 min.
1 oz. Willamette: put in nylon hop bag and pour the hot wort over it in
Procedure:
You can carry the hop bag over into the secondary if you rack. This English brewers is so fast it really finishes before you need a secondary. If you do rack, or when you bottle, the hop nose will hit you like a baseball bat. Oh, its good.


I bought the necessary ingredients from Brew and Grow (5 minutes from my house :) ):
Malt extract
Crystal
Galena
Willamette

But I noticed that the recipe doesn't call for any yeast!? Does this seem normal?

Also, it doesn't have very good directions such as how much water, when to add the ingredients etc. I've found several websites for extract brewing instructions but they are not specific to this recipe of course.

How would you brew this beer?


Keep in mind all I have is the Mr. Beer equipment so I am going to do a half recipe (2.5 gallons).

Thank you for all your help and this site rules!
 
I think they didn't tell you about the yeast since it's just understood that you would use yeast and you can choose your own strain.

The recipe is "meh" (adding the hops in a bag and pouring hot wort over it? Don't do that!) but we can help you with step by step directions when you're ready.
 
Fair enough.

How does this yeast sound? http://www.brewandgrow.com/brew/ingredients/yeast/ales/northwest-ale-xl-yeast.html

I will be picking up the yeast today and most likely brewing it tonight.

So far I brewed the West Coast Pale Ale that came with the Mr. Beer (which, surprisingly, wasn't too bad) and am currently conditioning Munton's Old Ale (I used the recipe on the can not one to the alternatives that come on a paper inside the can).

Any advice would be awesome!
 
Ingredients:
0.5 lbs amber crystal, steep until boil
6 lbs. English light malt extract: boil 60 min.
1 oz. Galena (11% a.a.): boil 60 min
1 oz. Willamette whole leaf hops (4% a.a.): boil 10 min.
1 oz. Willamette: put in nylon hop bag and pour the hot wort over it in
Procedure:
You can carry the hop bag over into the secondary if you rack. This English brewers is so fast it really finishes before you need a secondary. If you do rack, or when you bottle, the hop nose will hit you like a baseball bat. Oh, its good.


How would you brew this beer?[/B]

Keep in mind all I have is the Mr. Beer equipment so I am going to do a half recipe (2.5 gallons).

Thank you for all your help and this site rules!

Ok, here are my instructions! Steep the grains in a bag at 150-160 degrees for 20 minutes. Do NOT bring this to a boil! Just heat up the boil volume in your pot to about 165 and add the grains in the bag, and turn off the heat. Dunk it, "teabagging" it, until all the grains are wetted and make sure it's under 160 degrees by checking with a thermometer. Then let that steep for 20 minutes. Remove the grains, and bring the resulting liquor (that's what it's called) up to a boil. Take the pot off of the heat and add the extract. Bring to a boil again, and add the first hops. Set a timer for 60 minutes and then add the second hops with 10 minutes left in the boil. When the timer gets to 0, add the last hops. Turn off the heat and begin chilling the wort. Once chilled, pour the wort into the sanitized fermenter.

You don't need to use hops bags, but if you want to you can. Don't transfer the hops bags into the fermenter though!
 
Weird, my post with the yeast link didn't post...

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

I will definitely follow your direction! I didn't make it to brew and grow today so I'll have to do it tomorrow.

Thanks again!
 
Thanks again for the recipe.

I do have 3 questions though.

1) Why add hops at the end of the boil? Why not just add all the Willamette at the 10 minute mark?

2) Should I do a secondary with this? If so when? 7-10 days?

3) When it is time to bottle, will I need to add sugar for carbonation?

Thanks!
 
Thanks again for the recipe.

I do have 3 questions though.

1) Why add hops at the end of the boil? Why not just add all the Willamette at the 10 minute mark?

2) Should I do a secondary with this? If so when? 7-10 days?

3) When it is time to bottle, will I need to add sugar for carbonation?

Thanks!

1. Because hops added at different times have different effects. Hops added at 60 minutes are bittering additions, with almost no "hop" flavor. Hops added at 20-10 minutes are flavor hops, which provides the hop flavor and notes to the beer. Hops added at 5-0 minutes are "aroma hops", which provide the hops aroma to the beer. Adding them all at 10 minutes would change the beer.

2. I don't usually secondary. But you can if you want to. "Secondary" is not the proper term, really. It's a holdover from winemaking. In a brewery, there is a fermenter and then a second vessel called a "bright tank". Finished beer is pumped over to the bright tank to age and condition a bit so that another batch can be started in the fermenter. In homebrewing, you can rack to a clearing vessel if you want. But it's not needed- there is nothing really magical about moving the beer. It won't clear faster or anything like that. But some people enjoy doing it, or do it to add things like oak or fruit.

3. Yes. I use 1 ounce by weight of corn sugar per finished gallon.
 
Ok that makes sense.

I did a "secondary" on my last batch mainly to prevent as much trub and junk from getting into the bottles. After emptying the primary there was quite a bit (liquid and yeast etc) left below the nozzle level. The same after the secondary. I figure it is a way to "clean up" the bottled beer.

I've got another question about this recipe.

I only brewed a 2.5 gallon batch but used the entire package of yeast (says for a 5 gallon batch on the package).

What effect will this have on the finished product? Higher alcohol content or will ~ 1/2 of the yeast be unused?
 
The extra yeast merely meant that you have lots more at the beginning to begin the task of eating the sugar and making beer. Even though the package says it's good for a 5-gallon batch, you'll usually find that beginning with more yeast than just in the package will make for a smoother beer. Typically, there are 100 billion viable yeast cells in a package of Wyeast, whereas the recommended amount of cells in a 5-gallon batch is more like 200 billion. Accordingly, many homebrewers will create a "starter" that steps up the amount of yeast from one package to achieve the higher count. (A starter is just a low-gravity wort that gives the yeasties something to eat and reproduce before they hit your actual beer wort.)

Here's what the folks at Wyeast say:
The Activator is designed to deliver professional pitch rates (6 million cells/ ml.) when directly added to 5 gallons of wort. ( <1.060 at 70 degrees). However, if a package is slow to swell, suspected of being mishandled, or if the date is approaching the six month shelf life it is a good idea to build the culture up with a starter. High gravity or low temperature fermentations require higher pitch rates. This can be achieved with inoculating with additional packages or making a starter.
So, long story long, all you've done in pitching the entire pack into your smaller batch is essentially give the yeast a double-speed head start in turning your wort into beer!
 
Yooper said:
Ok, here are my instructions! Steep the grains in a bag at 150-160 degrees for 20 minutes. Do NOT bring this to a boil! Just heat up the boil volume in your pot to about 165 and add the grains in the bag, and turn off the heat. Dunk it, "teabagging" it, until all the grains are wetted and make sure it's under 160 degrees by checking with a thermometer. Then let that steep for 20 minutes. Remove the grains, and bring the resulting liquor (that's what it's called) up to a boil. Take the pot off of the heat and add the extract. Bring to a boil again, and add the first hops. Set a timer for 60 minutes and then add the second hops with 10 minutes left in the boil. When the timer gets to 0, add the last hops. Turn off the heat and begin chilling the wort. Once chilled, pour the wort into the sanitized fermenter.

You don't need to use hops bags, but if you want to you can. Don't transfer the hops bags into the fermenter though!

Heh heh...Yooper said "teabagging"

Sorry...nothing else to add...looks like all is under control...carry on
 
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