TAP-A-DRAFT: first impression...

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brewNdrink

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Well, my tap-a-draft keg system arrived in Burnaby Canada a week ago and immediately put my Canadian blonde beer into them after 2 weeks in the secondary. I've waited a week for the dextrose to carb the 6 litre bottles and couldn't wait anymore to tap the damn thing and give it a try!

A few things I've found out...

[1] Carb these bottles like you would any other bottle. I used 12 flat teaspoons for each 6 litre bottle. I guess I'll use around 9 when I make a stout.

[2] Stand these bottles straight up like any other bottle. I've been told by a few that these bottles can leak if left on it's side under pressure.

[3] The tap-a-draft auto regulates the bottles to 15psi. I don't know if that's good or not, but that's it. Adjust with dextrose I guess if you want more or less carb.

[4] If you live outside the USA and you want to buy the 8 gram CO2 cartridges you'll have to find them in your own country. The tap-a-draft people can't ship these via air.

[5] If you live in Canada you can get the 8 gram CO2 and nitro cartridges at Canadian Supertore and London Drugs. Also on ebay.ca

[6] I haven't tried the nitro cartridges, but the folks at the tap-a-draft company told me to put one CO2 cartridge FIRST, let it shoot in, then put in the nitro cartridge in the other chamber. I'm also gonna try to rig a restrictor on the tap end to emulate a stout tap when I get around to making stout in the fall and see how it works out.

http://www.sturmanbg.com/products/beverage_dispenser.asp
This is the company website. They were great in answering all my questions.

I poured my first draft beer today, and although the beer was still green, it was great! The time saved from bottling alone is worth the investment. Also fits great in my fridge and doesn't hog up much space.

It's no professional draft system, but for someone with limited space and cash, this is the best one can get (to all I know).

Hopefully it will last a while :)

Anyone with experience and tips with this system please give some pointers on this new toy. :)


Cheers :mug:
 
Here are some great TAP-DRAFT faqs for those interested in this little keg system:
:mug:

http://www.ibrew.com.au/html/equipment/tapadraft/tapadraftFAQ.html

Below is a list of FAQ. We recommend you read these as they will help you get the best from your Tap-A-Draft system.

I'm thinking of converting to kegging my beer....Is the tap-a-draft better than a larger keg system?

Each system has its advantages. Tap-a-draft can be used on its own or in combination with larger keg systems. The tap-a-draft will suit those brewers who wish to have on tap a variety of beers and who are looking at the advantage of transporting their cold beer easily. Each 6 litre bottle can be filled with a different beer type and matured ready for use. The portability of the tap-a-draft system is one of its great features.. You can take it to the beach, fishing, parties, barbecues or pool side. A blue ice tote bag ensures your beverage stays cold wherever you need a cold beer.
As many people don't have room for a larger keg system and dedicated fridge, they would find the tap-a-draft fits easily into their existing fridge.

Is the Tap-A-Draft expensive to run?

If you naturally prime your beer, then you will require 2 x 8gm C02 bulbs to give extra carbonation and dispensing pressure. Each 8gm C02 bulb costs 80 cents, and can be purchased for less if bulk buying. In some instances you may need to top up with another C02. Different beer types require more or less C02 (darker beers and stouts tend to be served less carbonated)

You also save money by not having to clean 30 bottles with hot water and cleaning compounds and not purchasing crown seals . You only need to clean 4 x 6 litre tap-a-draft bottles to bottle an entire brew.

How long will the 6 litre bottles last?

The manufacturer suggest 10 uses from each 6 litre bottle however we have customers who have trebled this quota. Provided the bottles are not cleaned with boiling or hot water they will last a very long time. A mild detergent clean followed by a good rinse is all that is required to keep the bottles in good condition. Use only cool water. Use a soft horsehair brush if needed.

Why are the tap-a-draft bottles so expensive..after all they are only strengthened PET bottles?

Unfortunately the bottles are manufactured in the U.S.A and are shipped from Colorado. Subsequently there is overland road carrier to closest sea port, International shipping costs, dock costs, FOB costs, Terminal handling charges , Custom clearance, fuel surcharges, insurances, and a list of import costs , ...get the gist. The exchange rate is not favourable at times and also unfortunately one gets very few bottles to a shipping pallet!

When the tap-a-draft bottles arrived they were slightly dinted..will this have any detrimental affect.

The PET Bottles will bounce back to perfect shape. You can achieve this by blowing into the bottle or if the dint is severe the first time you carbonate or charge with C02 they will resume their normal shape. This has had no effect on their reliability. While the bottles may appear flimsy..they are in fact unbreakable (well unless you jump on one).They are actually stronger and safer to use than some small metal kegs on the market.

How do I clean the tap?

Hot water, not boiling, should be run through the inlet/outlet tube after use. Do not soak the tap in water. Periodic removal, cleaning and replacement of inlet hose and outlet hose is recommended as well as the C02 rings. Careful study of the maintenance brochure is recommended. Keeping your equipment in good working order will ensure a long trouble free life.

I can't get the C02 to charge properly, the bulbs are not piercing?

check the small O rings where the C02 goes. If these rings are missing or swollen, the C02 will not pierce. If the bulbs do not pierce correctly, this can cause an unnecessary leak of gas from the unit.
earlier systems have black O rings. Later systems have clearer silicone rings. Replacement rings are available in the maintenance kit.

Sometimes when I charge a C02 bulb, gas leaks from the top side of the unit, is this a problem?

The regulators on the tap are designed to vent 'excess' pressure. Always wait a while after charging with a c02 bulb before charging the second bulb...this allows time for the C02 to be absorbed into the beer. Also check the black O rings have not swollen and are stopping the Co2 from charging correctly into the bottle.

How much sugar should I use when naturally carbonating with priming sugar?

It is not necessary to use as much priming sugar as you would in beer bottles. You only need to create enough secondary fermentation to give a slight gas pressure...which is enough to preserve and mature the beer. You can make up any shortfall in pressure when you use the c02 bulbs or the n2 bulbs.

Why does the beer have to be cold when charging with C02.

Co2 is only absorbed into cold liquids. If the beer is warm it will not gas up correctly.

What do I need to do to keep the system running well?

There are several parts that need constant monitoring and often replacing. These are available in the maintenance kit.
failure to keep these parts in good order will lessen the life of the unit. It is less expensive to keep the parts in good condition than letting the unit run down to a point where it is damaged.

How many Co2 chargers are required?

There is no set answer to this question. So much depends on whether you naturally prime your beer first, (recommended for longer term maturing) the style of beer, etc. It may take each brewer a couple of attempts to reach their best level of carbonation depending on the style of beer, the age or maturation level of the beer and the overall makeup of the beer.

Does natural priming give better results?

We believe that natural carbonation has many advantages, probably in part to the fact that the beer is left to mature longer when naturally primed. A naturally primed beer tends to have a better head retention as well.

For what purpose would I use nitrogen (n2) chargers?

These give an improved texture and head retention to the beer. You would use 1 x N2 cartridge and 1 C02 cartridge
(pierce the C02 cartridge first)

I have been naturally priming but have found that the screw caps leak?

You may be using the wrong caps for natural priming. You need the deeper white plastic caps with O rings.
These are reusable for the long term. Initially they are a little stiff to use so we recommend soaking in hot water to soften. Once they have been used a few times they expand a bit making them very easy to screw on ...and they give a 100% seal.

Does the tap-a-draft fit in a standard fridge?

Yes it does however some bar fridges will be too small. If the tap-a-draft does not fit front to back, it may fit sideways in some smaller fridges.
Measuements with tap fitted are 44 x 17cm.

Can I use the Tap-A-Draft for Ginger beer?

Absolutely..it is fantastic for Ginger beer. Virtually any carbonated beverage can be stored and served from the tap-a-draft unit.
 
RICLARK said:
Doesn't it still take the full 3+ weeks to carb your beer even in the TAD? Is your beer flat?

Not mine, no, but it does taste a bit green because the beer is so young. I primed the 6 litre bottle, just like priming any home brew bottle (but I did use a fair amount of dextrose: 1 flat teaspoon per 500ml. 6 litres=12 flat teaspoons). I only waited 1 week because I was dieing to try it out. I put 1 CO2 in, let it shoot in, then 5 minutes later I put the second CO2 in and put it in the fridge. When I came home from work I tried it and it was great! It was fully carbed (and I like my lite summer beers very carbonated). You can also close the tap a bit to get more head.

I heard that you can use only CO2 to carb the beer, but I don't see the point of it... that would be 4 CO2 cartridges for 1 bottle. That can get expensive.

Cheers.:mug:
Tony.
 
I have one of these set-ups I love it

it is great for apfelwein, hefe's/american wheat, and IPA'a

mainly it should be used for brews that are good to drink after they have been carbed

granted this is just my opinion
 
Sounds like Good Stuff brewNdrink
I also wanted to welcome another fellow Canuck to the Board :mug:
You mention your drinking Canadian Blonde...one of my favorites;
brewcanada_blonde.jpg


Cheers
BeerCanuck
 
Been using theTAD system for a while myself. Love it, fits nicely on a shelf in the fridge and is easy to take along to a party or picnic.
 
Hey there,

I used a tap-a-draft for about six months and was for the most part satisfied with it.

Here are some tips:

You can buy replacement caps from a wine supply store that have a plastic seal in them. These work much better than the caps supplied. With the replacements there is no need to worry about putting them on their sides.

I marked the bottles with a felt pen to indicate which part of the bottle is 'the bottom' when is in the fridge with the tap-a-draft head on. I did this so that when I put it in the fridge to chill prior to tapping, I could put it on it's side in the same orientation it will be when the head is put on. This lets the yeast and sediment settle to the proper spot.

Sometimes it will seem like there is no c02 because you will open the tap and no beer comes out. This probably isn't the case. The little rubber tube often sticks to itself. Give it a good pull/squeeze/massage and it should start to flow.
 
Well, I have to chime in and fully endorse the tap-a-draft system.

I have no space in my house for a kegerator, so I was searching for a solution to bottling... took a chance on the tap-a-draft. Now, I'm only working on my first 6 liter bottle (tasty Belgium Wheat), but I am totally impressed so far. I love the little footprint it makes in the fridge, as opposed to a kegerator.

TAD is not a replacement for a kegerator in my mind, but given my limitations I'm happy with the TAD.
 
Hey there,

I used a tap-a-draft for about six months and was for the most part satisfied with it.

Here are some tips:

You can buy replacement caps from a wine supply store that have a plastic seal in them. These work much better than the caps supplied. With the replacements there is no need to worry about putting them on their sides.

I marked the bottles with a felt pen to indicate which part of the bottle is 'the bottom' when is in the fridge with the tap-a-draft head on. I did this so that when I put it in the fridge to chill prior to tapping, I could put it on it's side in the same orientation it will be when the head is put on. This lets the yeast and sediment settle to the proper spot.

Sometimes it will seem like there is no c02 because you will open the tap and no beer comes out. This probably isn't the case. The little rubber tube often sticks to itself. Give it a good pull/squeeze/massage and it should start to flow.

That's some great ideas. Thanks for the info.

Just wondering, I've noticed that if the tap-a-draft has been sitting in my fridge for 2 weeks+ that it needs another CO2 cartridge, totaling 3 for 1 bottle. Do I have a tiny leak, or is this normal? If I polish off 1 bottle in a couple days there isn't a problem, as I use 2 CO2 cartridges.

I've also purchased the little tote bag that easily carries 1 tap-a-draft bottle. Excellent when I bring brew to picnics, camping, etc. I put a few iced gel packs inside the tote bag and stays cold for hours (from an already cold bottle).

Great system! I have 6 bottles that I hold 2 batches with (plus some bottled brew for the excess).
:mug:
 
Just wondering, I've noticed that if the tap-a-draft has been sitting in my fridge for 2 weeks+ that it needs another CO2 cartridge, totaling 3 for 1 bottle. Do I have a tiny leak, or is this normal? If I polish off 1 bottle in a couple days there isn't a problem, as I use 2 CO2 cartridges.

This is what I was referring to in my last point. I used to think that the botlle was out of co2 because when I opened the tap no beer flowed out. After replacing the co2 cartridge, the beer began to flow again.

In my case I discovered that the reason the beer wasn't flowing was because of a 'stuck tap'. The reason that replacing the co2 worked was that excess gas would rush through the tap unsticking it.

The next time that you think the botlle is out of gas, try vigourously pulling and squeezing the rubber outlet hose to see if that unsticks it. Another way to tell if it is truly out of gas is by pushing on the botlle. If it gives easily, it is out of gas. If it is at all rigid, there is still plenty of co2.
 
This is what I was referring to in my last point. I used to think that the botlle was out of co2 because when I opened the tap no beer flowed out. After replacing the co2 cartridge, the beer began to flow again.

In my case I discovered that the reason the beer wasn't flowing was because of a 'stuck tap'. The reason that replacing the co2 worked was that excess gas would rush through the tap unsticking it.

The next time that you think the botlle is out of gas, try vigourously pulling and squeezing the rubber outlet hose to see if that unsticks it. Another way to tell if it is truly out of gas is by pushing on the botlle. If it gives easily, it is out of gas. If it is at all rigid, there is still plenty of co2.

OK, I see what you mean. Sounds a little kinky, but I'll give it a try when I get home, as it's almost out of CO2. :)
 
This is what I was referring to in my last point. I used to think that the botlle was out of co2 because when I opened the tap no beer flowed out. After replacing the co2 cartridge, the beer began to flow again.

In my case I discovered that the reason the beer wasn't flowing was because of a 'stuck tap'. The reason that replacing the co2 worked was that excess gas would rush through the tap unsticking it.

The next time that you think the botlle is out of gas, try vigourously pulling and squeezing the rubber outlet hose to see if that unsticks it. Another way to tell if it is truly out of gas is by pushing on the botlle. If it gives easily, it is out of gas. If it is at all rigid, there is still plenty of co2.


Ok, tried your method. Didn't work. I guess it's just almost out of gas. It's a shame I sometimes have to use 3 cartridges for 1 bottle. Oh well, guess I'll just have to drink a little faster so it won't happen. :)
 
Sounds like Good Stuff brewNdrink
I also wanted to welcome another fellow Canuck to the Board :mug:
You mention your drinking Canadian Blonde...one of my favorites;
brewcanada_blonde.jpg


Cheers
BeerCanuck

I'm drinking a Canadian Blonde as I type this! Though I use the Coopers Canadian Blonde kit. I'm sure it's similar.

Cheers, sir.
:mug:
 
Well I took my Tap-a-draft on the road with me... weekend camping, and a week long road trip. My buddies loved it.

I made a simple batch of Coopers Mexican Cerveza and took it on the road. What I did was buy a cheap styrofoam cooler, cut out a hole on the side to slide the end of the bottle through, loaded it with ice, then tapped it. It worked flawlessly. I great ice-cold thirst quencher. Tap-a-draft rules!

I'm about to try the Coopers Brewmaster Pilsner. I know it comes with a special yeast that can be fermented as low as 13C. I'm using an old fridge to ferment around that temp. Anyone have any experience with this kit?

Cheers. :mug:
Tony.
 
I am about to buy a Tap-A-Draft. It seems perfect for the amount I brew. Does the force carb work ok
 
My buddy and I need to brew a batch that will have about 5 weeks of primary and secondary fermentation. We normally feel that at least 3 week sare necessary for bottle conditioning, but will be serving this beer around the time the secondary fermentation will finish. We were thinking of getting the TAD system or Mini Kegs and force carbing to avoid having to leave time for bottle conditioning. Is the TAD still good without priming? We will have wort to prime with and that always tastes young unless we leave at least 3 weeks. Any ideas?
 
This sounds perfect for 1-gallon batches. Has anyone tried that, or is that too much headroom?

TaD actually needs some headroom. Otherwise the moment you pierce a CO2 cartridge, the bottle instantly over-pressurizes and the relieve valve opens, wasting most of the cartridge.
 
I am about to buy a Tap-A-Draft. It seems perfect for the amount I brew. Does the force carb work ok

I've never force-carbed a tap-a-draft bottle yet. I've been told it needs 4 CO2s (2 for force-carbing, 2 for dispensing). I've heard it takes about a week in the fridge to force-carb.
 
I always force-carb with my TaD.

I start by chilling the filled bottle for a couple days, and then load up a single CO2 cartridge (empty cartridge on the other side) and give the whole thing a gentle shake for a minute or so. Then I give it another 24 hours before replacing the empty cartridge side with a new one. After 48 hours I start pouring tasty beer and load up new cartridges as needed to keep things flowing. I normally go through 3 or maybe 4 cartridges to carbonate and empty a full TaD bottle.
 
Sounds much better than the 5L min-keg system I started with. The plastic tap handle broke at the pivot after about two weeks. The replacement lasted about the same.
 
I am on my second batch using TAD. The first batch was a wheat beer that was good but had poor head retention. The bottles leaked some when i conditioned them on their side (as recommended by TAD). I just bottled my second batch and have noticed that one of the bottles does not seal well. Will this bottle be ruined? I have ordered some of the white caps with the gaskets for my next batch...
 
I am on my second batch using TAD. The first batch was a wheat beer that was good but had poor head retention. The bottles leaked some when i conditioned them on their side (as recommended by TAD). I just bottled my second batch and have noticed that one of the bottles does not seal well. Will this bottle be ruined? I have ordered some of the white caps with the gaskets for my next batch...

I use the standard black caps on my TAD bottles, but I stand them up, not on their sides. I put 12-15 flat teaspoons of corn sugar per 6 litre bottle for a full carb. So far no leaks. This would be my 5th batch with the TAD. No problems.

You can try the white caps, or just stand them up (like a regular bottle) and there shouldn't be any problems.

Cheers.
Tony.
 
I also bought the TAP system before I went to full kegging. I liked it very much and had no complaints except for the caps. I bought the special relief caps the company sells and I was just fine.
 
do you just keep the bottles covered with conditioning them. or do they offer colored bottles also.

i can't look them up because the web site is not working
 
anybody know a good place to buy one of these? i've seen prices from $50 to $70.. and both midwest and northern brewer are out of these right now..
 
Not sure if anyone else has done this, but this system seems perfect if you have friends who brew in your area. You each make 5 gallon batches of your favorite brew, load up 3 bottles each, and then trade a bottle. If you have 2 friends, you can each have 3 different bottles of brew to enjoy each time you all run a batch.

I gotta get more of my friends into homebrewing... :D
 
anybody have a problem of over carbonating? i ordered a TAD system which should be coming in a few days, and was gonna put my ginger saison in it for the first test of the TAD system. my plan was to simply add corn sugar as i would when normally bottling (3/4 cup for 5 gallons) and then conditioning for 3-4 weeks. I understand that you should be able to add as much corn sugar as you normally would when bottling, but I was just wondering if anybody had problems when doing this with overcarbonation or anything? as the faq says:

How much sugar should I use when naturally carbonating with priming sugar?

It is not necessary to use as much priming sugar as you would in beer bottles. You only need to create enough secondary fermentation to give a slight gas pressure...which is enough to preserve and mature the beer. You can make up any shortfall in pressure when you use the c02 bulbs or the n2 bulbs.

they don't really give a good amount to use, just that you would use less than when bottling.
 
I am now on my third batch using TAD. I added the better caps and still experienced some leakage in one of the bottles after five days. I decided to hook the bottle up to the TAD dispenser and force carb it so that i wouldn't lose very much beer to leakage. The beer was great right away! Good head with good carbonation after standard TAD set-up (two CO2 bottles after chilling).

I have not heard about reducing the priming sugar but that makes sense - I will try that with my next batch.
 
TAD ROCKS! I love this lil thing. Fits easily in my fridge, easy to use, and provides good carbonation/head. Has anybody not even needed to use a CO2 when naturally priming? I put the tap on a bottle of my ginger saison the other night, and right after opening the bottle, there was a huge rush of CO2 leaving and immediate bubbling/foaming of the beer inside. After I had secured the tap, it looked and felt (i pressed on the side of the bottle, and it was rock hard) like there was a good bit of CO2 built up already. So I just let the tap loose and started pouring nice foamy beer, perfectly carbonated and with great head. I have still yet to charge a CO2 cartridge into the beer, and 2 days later its still well carbonated and generating good head. Anybody else ever experience this?
 
TAD ROCKS! I love this lil thing. Fits easily in my fridge, easy to use, and provides good carbonation/head. Has anybody not even needed to use a CO2 when naturally priming? I put the tap on a bottle of my ginger saison the other night, and right after opening the bottle, there was a huge rush of CO2 leaving and immediate bubbling/foaming of the beer inside. After I had secured the tap, it looked and felt (i pressed on the side of the bottle, and it was rock hard) like there was a good bit of CO2 built up already. So I just let the tap loose and started pouring nice foamy beer, perfectly carbonated and with great head. I have still yet to charge a CO2 cartridge into the beer, and 2 days later its still well carbonated and generating good head. Anybody else ever experience this?

Wow, sounds like you carbed it good! Did you let the bottle sit in the fridge for 24 hours for the CO2 to absorb into the beer?

That's how I carb my TAD bottles as well; max carbed (except stouts). 15 flat teaspoons per bottle, and I go through 2 CO2s when the pressure dies down to finish it off. Before I was doing the recommended 1/2 amount of priming sugar and I was going through 3 CO2 cartridges. Those things can get costly.

I'm currently experimenting with my stout, the tap-a-draft and nitro cartridges to figure out how to get a nice 25% CO2 / 75% N2O mixture. Also I'm trying to McGyver a restrictor facet to help even more with the head.

I'll update the info on the stout setup after I experiment and drink my way through this.

:mug:
Tony.
 
yeah i let the beer sit in the fridge for about 2 days or so before i put the tap on. that sucker lasted 3 days w/o needing a CO2, and the next bottle I tapped lasted 4 days w/o needing CO2, which is waaaay straight for me. less money needed for the co2 cartridges, more money for makin burr.
 
I'm currently experimenting with my stout, the tap-a-draft and nitro cartridges to figure out how to get a nice 25% CO2 / 75% N2O mixture. Also I'm trying to McGyver a restrictor facet to help even more with the head.

I'll update the info on the stout setup after I experiment and drink my way through this.

:mug:
Tony.

OK, so my experience using the tap-a-draft with stout beer and the nitro cartridges...

First, if you've naturally primed the stout (I used 10 flat teaspoons of dextrose per bottle) you don't need to use ANY CO2 cartridges; it has plenty of CO2 already. Just use the nitro carts, as you want a mostly nitro stout.

Second, just pouring out of the tap the head was alot more creamy, but had a few large bubbles that kinda spoiled the look. I put a small fine strainer over my stout glass and poured into it. This got rid of the large bubbles and got a much creamier head on the stout.

Still not as good as a true nitro tap system, but it's pretty darn close!

Enjoy those stouts! :mug:

Tony.
 
does the beer go flat if you wait the 3-4 or days without adding any co2 carts? or does it still stay fully carbed and you need to add them after the days to keep it dispensing?
 
What makes this system better than the Party Keg system? The price seems comparable, and the aluminum party kegs don't have to be replaced like these PET bottles. Plus they look way cooler.
 
Actually, I thought the TAD bottles looked better than the party pigs. Granted, I've only seen the pigs in person so far. One advantage is that one TAD system will hold nearly a full 5 gallon batch of beer while the pigs hold half. And the TAD has 1/3 of the batch in the fridge at a time, so it's less space. And if you screw it up, you only lose 1/3 of your batch instead of half. That's a bit incentive to those of us (those of me) that have and average of 4.5 thumbs on each hand. :D

One thing I like is that if I find someone nearby who uses a TAD, we can trade bottles of our brew.
 
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