no output from STC-1000

I bought two 110V STC-1000 controllers off eBay for my side-by-side fridge conversion. I got them wired into a box and turned it on. The default values are left as-is, so there is a 3 minute compressor delay where the cooling light blinks. After the delay, I hear the relay snap, the red light stays on and...nothing. I get no power to the switched outlet I wired to Unit #1, nor the bare leads I wired to Unit #2. I tried plugging in various electrical devices, fans, etc just to see if it would run them (haven't plugged in fridge yet).

The directions and sticker on the controller say 11V supply, 220V output (wouldn't that be impossible?). But I opened the box and the Zettler magnetics sticker clearly lists 115V@60kHz AC.

So I'm confused. Should I expect my multimeter to read 100V across the output side once the red cooling light on on? I'm not getting any reading.

It seems a common mistake for people to think that the two terminals on the relay (like, terminals 7 & 8 of the controller) act as a "power outlet", and they try to hook the hot and neutral lines of their fridge or heater to pins 7 & 8.

Is that what you did?

yep in other words the stc-1000 is one thermostat controller and 2 separate switches
7 and 8 is in and out...

Walker said:

It seems a common mistake for people to think that the two terminals on the relay (like, terminals 7 & 8 of the controller) act as a "power outlet", and they try to hook the hot and neutral lines of their fridge or heater to pins 7 & 8.

Is that what you did?

Click to expand...

Yes, I hooked 7 to the white side of the power outlet, and 8 to the black side of the outlet. Is that not right? How should I be connecting it?

You use the terminals to interrupt the hot side, black usually if you do things right.

OK, I found a wiring diagram that matches what you described - you have to talk real slow and use small words around us Mechanical Engineers ;-)

twd000 said:

OK, I found a wiring diagram that matches what you described - you have to talk real slow and use small words around us Mechanical Engineers ;-)

Click to expand...

I remember the special "Circuits for Non-believers" class they had for you guys.
Did your controller not have a stick figure drawing of a switch on the sticker above the terminals?

cwi said:

I remember the special "Circuits for Non-believers" class they had for you guys.
Did your controller not have a stick figure drawing of a switch on the sticker above the terminals?

Click to expand...

yeah, in fact it did have a diagram. Same one you see here in the bottom right corner. http://www.rise.com.hk/ebayproducts/manuals/temperature_controller_mini.pdf

Being an ME, I interpreted it literally like a plumbing diagram and hooked up A to B...

twd000 said:

yeah, in fact it did have a diagram. Same one you see here in the bottom right corner. http://www.rise.com.hk/ebayproducts/manuals/temperature_controller_mini.pdf

Being an ME, I interpreted it literally like a plumbing diagram and hooked up A to B...

Click to expand...

So that's how the three stooges got the water to come out of the chandelier when the light switch was flipped. Always wondered about that.

twd000 said:

yeah, in fact it did have a diagram. Same one you see here in the bottom right corner. http://www.rise.com.hk/ebayproducts/manuals/temperature_controller_mini.pdf

Being an ME, I interpreted it literally like a plumbing diagram and hooked up A to B...

Click to expand...

I too did the same thing but I am not using or making a whole electrical box. Can you dumb this down for me even more. I'm only using this for cooling so I'm wiring it straight in. From my wall outlet, I have that power cable going to 1 and 2 of the controller. And I have 7 and 8 going to the freezer. (1 & 8 are hot, 2 & 7 are the nuetrals) Please tell me how to set this up.

8 is hot out 7 is hot in (cooling)
neutral and ground should be connected directly, bypassing the controller
1 goes to 7, 2 goes direct to freezer

Here's about as simple of a diagram as you will get. The black/white/green wires that are on the lower left corner are the power feed coming in from whatever cord you have plugged into the wall.



If you don't want heating capability then don't connect either of the wires that are on terminals 5 or 6 of the controller (and there is no need to break off the tab on the outlet either).

If you don't want cooling, then don't hook up the wires that are on terminals 7 and 8 of the controller (and there is no need to break off the tab on the outlet).

I'd like to wire mine directly onto the power cord for my freezer. I'm a little confused about how to do it. Does the neutral need to be wired in or just use the hot?

Nanitebrewing said:

I'd like to wire mine directly onto the power cord for my freezer. I'm a little confused about how to do it. Does the neutral need to be wired in or just use the hot?

Click to expand...

You'll need some type of enclosure. Both hot and neutral are needed to power the controller on terminals 1 & 2. Use terminals 7 & 8 to interrupt/switch the hot to the freezer.

I just got one of these myself. I'm really happy with the unit.

cwi said:

I remember the special "Circuits for Non-believers" class they had for you guys.
Did your controller not have a stick figure drawing of a switch on the sticker above the terminals?

Click to expand...

You sir just made me smile remembering the days of college. Silly MEs

gx1400 said:

You sir just made me smile remembering the days of college. Silly MEs

Click to expand...

In my simple mind, every switch is a knife switch, since I can "See" it close the circuit

Walker said:

Here's about as simple of a diagram as you will get. The black/white/green wires that are on the lower left corner are the power feed coming in from whatever cord you have plugged into the wall.

If you don't want heating capability then don't connect either of the wires that are on terminals 5 or 6 of the controller (and there is no need to break off the tab on the outlet either).

If you don't want cooling, then don't hook up the wires that are on terminals 7 and 8 of the controller (and there is no need to break off the tab on the outlet).

Click to expand...

Thanks for the diagram. I was having the same issue.

Thanks. I fell for the same. Sorry but these instructions leave lot to be desired. But now it is working.

Very helpful thread. The diagram on the STC is very deceiving.

I found this to be the easiest diagram BeerGrylls

EDIT: But then, I like having the fuse, and the always on; in fact, I made one whole double outlet HOT, another COLD and a third always on (recirc fan in FermChamb), fitting it all in one of those outdoor 4x4x6 gray boxes.