Keeping StarSan

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DJCalico

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Quick question about the retention of StarSan... from reading I understand that you can keep a bucket of StarSan solution (which I did from my last brew day) and that it is good as long as it retains it's clarity (which I think it is)...

My question is bubbles... obviously it wont keep it's bubbles. For those that keep their sanitized solution, what do you do weeks later when you're ready to keg/bottle? Do you add a fresh splash of StarSan and shake the bucket to mix it?

Thanks
 
No need to add any fresh splash or anything. And it's not really the clarity (although that can be a decent indication).

The main thing you want to keep track of is the pH. You'll want it to be at 3 or under in order for it to retain its sanitizing capability. You can usually pick up some pH paper at your homebrew store.

I have kept Star-san for around 5 months and the only reason I tossed it was because I had a siphon start unexpectedly (apparently, the siphon was full of sanitizer!) into the bucket where I kept the Star-San.
 
Interesting.. thanks.

I guess I'm kinda freaked out now until I can get some lithmus paper. Dont want to save it just for it to possibly not be working as intended.

Would rather spend a few more bucks on a new bottle of starsan than be stingy and lose my beer to an unnecessary infection :eek:
 
To remain useful, starsan has to be CLEAR and pH < 3.0.
I'm not sure what you're talking about when you refer to 'keeping its bubbles'... Starsan acts like soapy water, obviously if you leave it sitting the bubbles will recede but if you shake it again they're back again, you do not need to add any more starsan to achieve this.

I store starsan in a spare keg and it literally keeps for months. I got some cheap pH strips but so far I've never had any starsan rise above pH 3.0 - usually I throw it out after a couple months even though the pH is fine and it's still crystal clear, just to be on the safe side. My 32oz bottle of starsan has lasted me like a year and I've barely put a dent in it.

One thing I really found helpful is to pick up a small 10cc syringe - this way I can accurately measure out small amounts of starsan to mix up a gallon or less (6mL/gal = 1oz/5gal), so that I don't have to mix up 2.5 or 5 gallons at a time when all I need is a gallon or less.
 
Funkenjaeger wrote:
I store starsan in a spare keg and it literally keeps for months.

So I take it that the chemicals in Star San won’t hurt the stainless steel if left in contact over a long period of time?
 
I would argue against Star-San having to be clear (and yes, I know Charlie himself says this). My Star San is never clear and either I keep a meticulously clean house or it's working just fine (I still check the pH, however).
 
I would argue against Star-San having to be clear (and yes, I know Charlie himself says this). My Star San is never clear and either I keep a meticulously clean house or it's working just fine (I still check the pH, however).

I with you. Mine is never clear and it works just fine.
 
I've never had clear Star San. It clouds up as soon as it hits my tap water...I'm thinking I might need to get some test paper to see if it's really working...

I use the PH strips. When it gets over 3 I dump it or if it gets dirty. cloudy and dirty are two different things.
 
If you guys want to trust starsan no matter how long it sits then do the following.

Buy a 2.5 gallon sparkletts distilled water at the food store. Take off the whole lid, valve and all. It comes off easily after the molded on retainer is removed. Pour into the sparkletts bottle 1/2 oz of Starsan and put on the cap with valve that you removed. Make sure it snaps all the way in place where it was before removal. Shake it up.

Because distilled water has no minerals it retains its strength and does not degrade. This is very handy too because the spiggot easily fills spray bottles etc.

On brew day I mix up 1/2 a bucket of fresh tap water and 1/2 oz of starsan for soaking hoses and whatever and use spray bottles for spraying bigger things I can not soak like buckets or lids. I toss it when done but still have the spray bottles and the mixed Sparkletts distilled and Starsan available any time.
 
I still contend that just because you aren't having infection problems doesn't mean that your sanitizer is doing as good a job as it can. Even some people who have very poor sanitization practices can brew good beer. As homebrewers, we often tend to over-stress about sanitization so it's probably safe if we back off a bit as long as we are moderately careful in general. But IMO, in the event you're not going crazy with sanitization, it pays to use starsan which makes the job easier (no-rinse, foaming, very low contact time, not toxic or otherwise harmful, etc), which is why I also want to make sure my starsan is operating at its best. If Charlie Talley says that starsan doesn't work as well when it gets cloudy, I believe him - and since he specifically talks about the cloudiness being due to mineral content in the water, I think there is little room for confusion - if your starsan solution clouds up due to your tap water, the final solution is not as effective as it should be. He even calls it 'useless.' If you feel it's doing a good enough job for you when cloudy, that's fine, to each his own. I'm sure it still does a better job than an average haphazardly-formulated must-rinse bleach solution like some people use, and it's still likely to not be a serious weak point in your sanitization practices.' I'm no expert on the matter, but so far the only evidence I really trust is the statement from Charlie, everything else seems to be speculation that pH is the only thing that matters, which leads me to ask why we all don't just use a simple acid for a sanitizer as it seems like it should be cheaper. My guess is that there's more to it than just the acidity - but maybe there isn't.

Anyway, I sent an email to five star chemicals asking for further clarification on what exactly happens to starsan's performance when it's cloudy, we'll see if they respond.
 
I still contend that just because you aren't having infection problems doesn't mean that your sanitizer is doing as good a job as it can. Even some people who have very poor sanitization practices can brew good beer. As homebrewers, we often tend to over-stress about sanitization so it's probably safe if we back off a bit as long as we are moderately careful in general. But IMO, in the event you're not going crazy with sanitization, it pays to use starsan which makes the job easier (no-rinse, foaming, very low contact time, not toxic or otherwise harmful, etc), which is why I also want to make sure my starsan is operating at its best. If Charlie Talley says that starsan doesn't work as well when it gets cloudy, I believe him - and since he specifically talks about the cloudiness being due to mineral content in the water, I think there is little room for confusion - if your starsan solution clouds up due to your tap water, the final solution is not as effective as it should be. He even calls it 'useless.' If you feel it's doing a good enough job for you when cloudy, that's fine, to each his own. I'm sure it still does a better job than an average haphazardly-formulated must-rinse bleach solution like some people use, and it's still likely to not be a serious weak point in your sanitization practices.' I'm no expert on the matter, but so far the only evidence I really trust is the statement from Charlie, everything else seems to be speculation that pH is the only thing that matters, which leads me to ask why we all don't just use a simple acid for a sanitizer as it seems like it should be cheaper. My guess is that there's more to it than just the acidity - but maybe there isn't.

Anyway, I sent an email to five star chemicals asking for further clarification on what exactly happens to starsan's performance when it's cloudy, we'll see if they respond.

Cool, be sure to let me know! Thanks for taking the step forward. I am thinking more and more about installing a filter for general brew/household use anyway. Maybe this will be the straw to break my back and get me off my arse to do it!
 
Thanks Funken... I'm curious to see the response as well!
 
I live in an area with hard water and Star-san will turn cloudy if I use that water. But if I use the water that's been through the water-softener it never gets cloudy.
 
I received a response from Five Star:
Charlie's answer that Star San is good if it is below pH 3 and solution is clear is correct and simple to tell people. This is our answer that we tell everyone, because we have test results that prove that it kills. When the solution turns cloudy the "soap", or surfactant is reacting with the metals in the water and coming out of solution. Star San kills because of the synergistic effect of the surfactants and pH. So, is it still good when it turns cloudy, "I don't know." I do not have test data, or could create a test to measure the cloudiness with the amount of kill. When it turns cloudy is all of the surfactant out of solution, No. However, I don't know how much has fallen out of solution. This will vary depending on the level of metals in the water. Does it still kill? I don't have test results to prove one way or the other. If I can't prove it with test results, I error on the side of No.

Use the DI water and you won't have this problem. If you chose to use tap water, and the solution turns cloudy, don't use it. Then, the best advice is to only make up what you need when you need it.
So I guess without actual cold hard factual evidence from test results some people may still choose to believe that it cloudy starsan is okay.

IMO, this excerpt is really all I need to hear to remain convinced:
When the solution turns cloudy the "soap", or surfactant is reacting with the metals in the water and coming out of solution. Star San kills because of the synergistic effect of the surfactants and pH.
It answers my previous question of whether pH is the only thing that matters - clearly it is not. Unfortunately, the degree of precipitation of the surfactant is not so easy to quantify as sticking a pH strip in there, so erring on the side of caution seems like a good plan to me.
 
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