Blichmann Engineering "set-it-and-forget-it design" Auto Sparge?

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I don't see how it adjusts to accommodate a 5 vs. 10 gallon batch or a large vs. small grain bill. If the float arm is a fixed length and the mounting point is also fixed (only drill one hole in your pot/keggle, right?), it seems like it would only be able to maintain a constant water level at a certain height in the MLT, independent of the depth of the grain bed. How would this let you maintain "an inch or two" of sparge water above the grain bed? Maybe I'm missing something.

Also, depending on how it's mounted, you'll likely lose a few inches of space in your MLT.

I tried fly sparging for the first time a few weeks ago on my RIMS build, and it took maybe 5 minutes to get the in/out flows to match, plus occasional monitoring and minor tweaking to make sure it was keeping a good depth above the grain bed. Since I'm pumping into and gravity draining out of the MLT, I think the rates weren't constant. I could see how a tool like this AutoSparge would be handy if implemented well.

Buy one and let us know how it works out :cross:
 
freddyb said:
I don't see how it adjusts to accommodate a 5 vs. 10 gallon batch or a large vs. small grain bill. If the float arm is a fixed length and the mounting point is also fixed (only drill one hole in your pot/keggle, right?), it seems like it would only be able to maintain a constant water level at a certain height in the MLT, independent of the depth of the grain bed. How would this let you maintain "an inch or two" of sparge water above the grain bed? Maybe I'm missing something.
Click to expand...

It says it's "adjustable" - set the desired level and let it fly, which I interpret as being able to set the desired liquid level in the tun. The pictures are low resolution, but it appears to have an adjustment of some sort on the valve.

That said, I'll stick with my adjustable, electric valve actuated sparge arm. It cost me less than $50 to build and the controls are integrated into my control panel.
 
Yeah, bigger pictures would be nice. I do like the new, redesigned webpage though.
 
Loosen the lock screw on the arm and set to what ever level you want to operate at. A simple and effective solution to non electric mash tun level control, would be a bit more impressive if the float valve was stainless.
 
Yeah, the arm has a vertical pivot. I looked at it pretty closely at the booth at the NHC this year. The markup has to be nuts on this and for $50, I had really hoped for stainless. Maybe I'm crazy.

If you've got a really tall, narrow MLT, you'd probably want to set up two locations for the float for 5/10 g batches and just use a plug for the unused hole.
 
I like this gadget, but I would not drill a hole in my kettle to mount it. Instead, I would fabricate a bracket to fit over the side of the kettle with some kind of a clamping mechanism or thumb screw to secure it. OTOH, I don't have problems with maintaining the proper flow rate as is, so it may be a long time before I buy one. There are other priorities ahead of it.
 
I think it works like the "float" on a toilet, it lets more water in, as the float moves down, pretty simpe devise you could probably build yourself.
 
Catt22 said:
I don't see any means to adjust the water level with the Hartford loop arrangement. I suppose you could fit a tube inside a tube with some kind of a compression fitting to seal the joint. This would allow you to vary the height of the overflow weir to control the water level.
Click to expand...

My bad, I never finished my thought.

I was thinking of having a threaded T at the bottom, and having different Hartford loops that you could screw in depending on whether you were doing a 10 lb, 15 lb, or 20 lb grain bill....all it is is a piece of copper pipe with a T at the top...not exactly expensive...

Edit: Or, have 3 or 4 T's built into the vertical part of the Hartford, each with a valve on it. You open the valve at the level you want your sparge water to be at.
 
I do the same thing with two valves. Set it and forget it.

Both stainless, fully adjustable, works with pump or gravity, and cost less than $20.
 
These valves are readily available as swamp cooler water level control valves. I've only seen brass ones...
You could easily do this with a liquid level sensor and a solenoid shutoff valve.... something I've been thinking of exploring....
 
Half the fun of homebrewing is making your own stuff. My sparge arm which covers the whole grain bed equally only costs about $5 to make.
 
Deuce said:
I think it works like the "float" on a toilet, it lets more water in, as the float moves down, pretty simpe devise you could probably build yourself.
Click to expand...

it is basically the float on a toilet. i do carpet cleanig for a living and the machines have 3 of these on them just look up mechanical float switch on an carpet caeaning parts supply sites. im pretty sure you could find this part wholesale for maybe $15 bucks
 
leboeuf said:
These valves are readily available as swamp cooler water level control valves. I've only seen brass ones...
You could easily do this with a liquid level sensor and a solenoid shutoff valve.... something I've been thinking of exploring....
Click to expand...

Yes, essentially a swamp cooler float switch. They are really cheap and readily available. Here's one for under $10.00 :

http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/83650/icn/20-250589/dial/4153.htm

I may attempt using one of of these in my MT just like the Blichmann device only my DIY version will clamp to the side of the kettle. I want to be able to quickly and easily install and remove it. I don't have an aversion to brass or plastic and I don't have a stainless fetish, so it looks like it will work with only minimal add-ons outside of some hose barb adapters. It will be very cheap to try anyway.
 
Sawdustguy said:
The US Plastic solution is almost perfect. I batch sparge because it is so simple so I would love to be able to attach a piece of silicone hose on the end to lay on top of the grain bed. It would be perfect if they had a 1/2" NPT on both ends.
Click to expand...

I took another look at that USP float valve. I'm not sure it would hold up to the heat exposure. They do have one with 1/2" NPT threads on the valve, but again, the valve body is PVC and I think it would soften when exposed to the heat. Close, but no cigar I think. I may have to settle for a brass swamp cooler valve. I don't have an aversion to brass as some do.
 
Catt22 said:
I took another look at that USP float valve. I'm not sure it would hold up to the heat exposure. They do have one with 1/2" NPT threads on the valve, but again, the valve body is PVC and I think it would soften when exposed to the heat. Close, but no cigar I think. I may have to settle for a brass swamp cooler valve. I don't have an aversion to brass as some do.
Click to expand...

Brass don't bother me either.
 
Here's a different option and what I'd do if I decide to switch to fly sparging. I'd treat it just like an old fashioned gravity feed chromatography column. If you can make the lid to the mash tun airtight, then as the wort drains out, it is automatically replaced by the same amount of water from your HLT. No valves needed other than the one on the MLT outlet. The trick, is getting the lid to the MLT airtight. If you don't, then the hot water will likely flow in too fast, and might eventually start leaking. This would happen to me occassionally while running columns in grad school

Like this. Look familiar at all?

et0602-fig-0001-1-full.gif


Buffer reseervoir = HLT
Stationary phase = grain bed
Frit = false bottom/manifold

This is after all what we do in reality - column chromatography, and there is even a style of chromatagraphy called, you guessed it, batch chromatography
 
I'm thinking a wooden lid with a routed edge to hold a small tire innertube. (if I can find the right size). The innertube would be inflated to create a seal. One bonus is that the height is then adjustable. They make large home wine fermenters with a similar arrangement - an inflatable ring around the edge of the lid which allows them to be minimize headspace with variable sized batches

Like this:

Variable Volume Tank - 100L
 
THis might be a dumb question but how do you hook your sparge water line to this? Does it have some kind of Quick connect or something on the end? I cant tell what it is from the pics.
 
There is an adjustment screw on the valve that sets the level. And as long as the pot is at least 12" in diamater you can control the level virtually anywhere you want.
 
Stupid question.... What is the thread size on the inlet? I need to buy a hosebarb adaptor for it. I can't seem to find this anywhere.
 
Hi guys - John here from Blichmann Engineering. We made the body from low lead surface treated brass for cost reasons. There is a reason the stainless units in McMaster are so expensive. Stainless is hard to machine and hard to cast. The big difference between our design and the inexpensive "toilet valves" is the size of the openings. A chunk of grain entering it will block it open, or plug it up and cause trouble. We had this casting specially made to include large openings for just that reason.
 
John, I just purchased one of these. It looks great! excited to use it this weekend. What is the thread size on the inlet? Looks like 3/4" male NPT, but I want to check before heading to homedepot for a hose barb adaptor.
 
It's 1/2" NPT. Detailed installation and operation instructions are proveded with the product.
 
Am I understanding this correctly?

You could use this sparge arm as the return during recirc in RIMS/HERMS?

Also, when actually sparging, on a single tier, would you be able to still pump from the MLT --> BK?
 

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