Question about pride of London clone: 1968 temps & D-rest

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Smellyglove

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I'll be brewing a pride of London clone this weekend and from what I read in a BYO article about this beer is that they pitch at 17C, raise to 20C for main fermentation and back to 17 again.

First. Will this mean they raise it until FG is reached? Or just during the initial stormy parts of fermentation?

Second: I'll be using wy1968 for this. It says that a D-rest is needed for this yeast. If the 20C temperature is to be held until FG is reached, will I still need to do a D-rest at even higher temps after FG is reached?

If I'm supposed to turn the temperature back down when I see krausen is on its way back I guess I still have some more points left, or is this wrong, will the 1968 eat everything at once? If I still have some points left when going back to 17C, I guess it will be a small roller coaster in temperature if I'm supposed to do the D-rest also when I'm having a few points left.

How would you do it?

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Not sure why they recommend a d-rest. I use 1968 a lot. I start fermentation at 65F and hokd until it skows and then allow it to rise to 68-69 until it finishes, give it another week to clear and package. 1968 is highly flocculant and the rise in temp keeps it busy until it's done. Its a great yeast and produces a super clear beer
 
Not sure why they recommend a d-rest. I use 1968 a lot. I start fermentation at 65F and hokd until it skows and then allow it to rise to 68-69 until it finishes, give it another week to clear and package. 1968 is highly flocculant and the rise in temp keeps it busy until it's done. Its a great yeast and produces a super clear beer

It's actually wyeast themselves that recommend it. The other option was wlp002, which has half of the diacetyl production of the 1968. But I want to try the 1968 since I've never used it before.

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It's actually wyeast themselves that recommend it. The other option was wlp002, which has half of the diacetyl production of the 1968. But I want to try the 1968 since I've never used it before.

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I can tell you that fermenting as I described has never produced diacetyl in any of my batches:)
 
duboman is describing the correct temp profile for 1968/002 to keep it from dropping out too early. If it does, it's very hard to rouse back up again. I let it finish up in that 68-69*F range (sort of a d-rest I suppose) then cold crash the primary into the mid-30's for 5-7 days.

Since WY1968ESB and WLP002 are the same strain, I question how one could produce just half the diacetyl vs. the other.
 
I wouldn't drop it back down to 17. You're likely to loose the momentum of the yeast. This strain is a hard flocculator, especially on the first pitch. I would agree with above... Start at 17 slowly raise it to 20. Just make sure you give it a day or two after it drops, and you shouldn't have any diacetyl issues.
 
I wouldn't drop it back down to 17. You're likely to loose the momentum of the yeast. This strain is a hard flocculator, especially on the first pitch. I would agree with above... Start at 17 slowly raise it to 20. Just make sure you give it a day or two after it drops, and you shouldn't have any diacetyl issues.


This. With the ramp to 20c you won't need to follow with a d-rest. As mentioned, 1968 is incredibly flocculant--a very cool strain.
 
i agree with above, but i have had diacetyl issues with this yeast. in my experience, if it quits early, you're in butterville. a steady rise like 17-20 keeps the yeast happy and the brewer happy. 20 essentially acts as the d-rest. with this temp regime i can go grain to glass, with great clarity, in 12 days easily.
 
Alright. Thanks for all your input. I'll go with a more classic fermentation then.
 
1968 has been my house strain for years now. I usually start at 17, wait until the fermentation has almost stopped, and then slowly raise the temp to 20 or 21, and wait another week or so. It is normal for me to leave the beer in the primary for a month or longer, depending on my schedule. I never have "butter" problems anymore by being patient. I always have clear, "clean" beers by not being in a hurry, like I was when I was first starting out as a new brewer. For some reason, I decided to re-read the Wyeast smack pack info, and now feel somewhat confused...
The site mentions pitching into a 65-72 F wort, wait for obvious signs of fermentation, foam, bubbling airlock, etc., and then adjust to desired fermentation temperature. This makes me wonder, should I start every batch at 65-70, and as soon as I see fermentation, roll the temperature back? I believe we are only referring to 1 or 2 days, what to all of you think about this method?
 
The site mentions pitching into a 65-72 F wort, wait for obvious signs of fermentation, foam, bubbling airlock, etc., and then adjust to desired fermentation temperature. This makes me wonder, should I start every batch at 65-70, and as soon as I see fermentation, roll the temperature back? I believe we are only referring to 1 or 2 days, what to all of you think about this method?

I believe that the reason they suggest that is tied in with them saying that the smack pack is "direct pitch" for a 5 gallon batch. Starting it high is a way to get the yeast more active and fermentation going quicker in an under-pitch situation. The problem is the risk of unwanted flavors from the higher initial temps, especially if you're not where you can monitor it every few hours (like when you're sleeping or at work). Also, for those who don't have precise control, trying to drop the temp like that once activity starts can be something of a crap-shoot.

So, what do I think of it? Not much. Since you're no doubt doing starters and aerating, there's no need to even consider it.
 
We brewed this yesterday and because of a bad thermometer and drinking a beer to many while brewing we didn't speak the same language so we pitched it at 22C (71F). I know this is a no-no, but I let the temp drop to 17C (62F) and will let it ride at that temp. The drop was done in about 12 hours. I just didn't want to keep it close to the pitch-temp which was too high.

Will it get overly fruity?
 
I recently purchased 2 smack packs of 1084 Irish Ale yeast ( 3 or 4 days ago) to use in a 1.060+ Irish Red Ale. I made a starter wort of about a quart, added a couple of ounces or so from one of the smack packs to it, and pitched the rest of the two packs into my 6 gallons of Irish Red. After re reading the Wyeast site info mentioned above, I raised the temperature to 65 F, and waited for a rocky head of bubbles. Twelve or so hours later, I had a nice layer of foam, so rolled the temperature back to 55 F, and this morning the airlock was half full of blowoff, so I will keep an eye on it. Yes, I normally make starters, and it appears the ones I have been making had a low cell count, or the starting temperature was too low. I will start my next brew this same way, and if the results are similar, this will be my new method for starting fermentation.
 
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