Cold crashing bottled beers/retaining aging.

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Nokitchen

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My apartment is warm. Too warm. 80F in the winter is not at all uncommon even with the heat off and the windows open. Welcome to NYC apartment living.

A result I have a persistent problem of beers overcarbonating. No problem, usually -- when carbonation is right I throw the bottles in the back of the fridge and that stops the process.

But now I've got a big -- 11%ish Belgian tripel that I want to age for an extended period of time. It's got a sharp caramel note on the top that I think will be fantastic if allowed to mellow out. Today it's at absolutely the right level of carbonation for that beer and normally it would be going in the fridge.

Will refrigerating stop the aging process? If so, would removing them from the fridge after putting the yeasties to sleep allow the aging to resume without restarting in-bottle fermentation?

Thanks in advance. I'd love to mellow at least a little of this beer for a full year.
 
if you put it in the fridge the aging will go into slow mo. if you take them back out the yeast will wake up again and continue to carbonate.

on your next brew use less priming sugar and make sure that fermentation is actually over before you bottle.
 
I wouldn't think that temperature would be the cause of overcarbonation - It'd just make the carbonation happen faster. I'd mess with the level of priming sugar you're using.
 
As above, over carbonation is caused by too high a level of fermentable components in the beer prior to bottling. Either incomplete fermentation, too much priming sugar or a combination of the two.
 
Temp has little to do with it, except as others have said in terms of time. The amount of carbonation, the level of it, is purely determined by the amount of fermentables, i.e. sugar present at bottling time, which is consumed by the yeast to provide co2, really nothing else. So if your beer is over carbing, one of 2 things are happening, you are adding too much sugar, or you are getting infections, which are eating the normally unfermentable sugars and producing more co2 than usual.
 
I'm pretty persnickety about not bottling until after I've reached target FG and it's sat there at that level for at least a few days (more usually a week). And I'm down to 1/2 cup sugar or 3/4 DME for most bottlings. The pattern has been that it carbonates at normal speeds (or sometimes even slowly, as in the case of the tripel) but that it just doesn't stop. I always figured that's because it's sitting there at 80F. I know if my primary were at 80F the yeast would go nuts. Could it be something else? I've redoubled sanitation efforts. I'm not at an unusual altitude. I'm keeping things pretty simple -- I'm an extract brewer.

My beers (with one exception that didn't last long enough to get overcarbonated ;) ) haven't tasted infected.
 
Nope, sorry, it really is JUST about the amount of sugar (either fermentable or unfermentable) consumed by the yeast at bottling time. Not yeast, not temp, not time, really.

I posted this yesterday in answer to a question kinda similar to yours...it should give you a rough explanation of how carbing works.

when you've reached good carb levels, do you have to refrigerate to stop any more carbonation or is it ok to leave the bottles out of the fridge until you're ready cool and drink? my first batch is carbing and i'm gonna store some until christmas, just don't know if i can store it warm or have to go cold.

If you've carbed properly or to style, they reach the "good" carb level when all the priming sugar you added is exhausted. That is how you "carb to style" YOU control the amount of food you give them.

In a typical beer that is bottle carbed w 5 ounces of sugar @ 70 degrees provides 2.5 volumes of co2.

Many Styles are carbed higher than the standard 4.5- 5 ounces of sugar/2.-2.5 volumes of co2 that comes with basic kits, and often that is more sugar than that. Think of belgian beers for instance, or some pilsners, or Autralian sparkling ales. They are all carbed higher than most basic beers, and except for beligians are often bottled in normal bottles and they don't gush or explode.

Some are significantly less, like barleywines, or stouts or porters.

You can just look at beersmith and see the different amounts of sugar needed to carb by style.

For example the style volume of co2 range for an Australian Ale is 2-2.8 volumes of Co2, and if the beer is @ 70 degrees at bottling time, then you would need, 6.12 ounces of sugar if you wanted to carb at the highest volume for that style.

That 4.5 - 5 ounces really just tends to be the baseline for most gravity/ styles of beer, (when bottled at 70 degrees) but there are plenty of styles that use less or more sugar to be less or more carbed than that.

Here's the volumes of co2 for most beer styles...you can see how high Belgians and German weizens can be carbed.

Style & Volumes of CO2
American ales 2.2–3.0
British ales 1.5–2.2
German weizens 2.8–5.1
Belgian ales 2.0–4.5
European Lagers 2.4–2.6
American Lagers 2.5–2.8

So really you put the right amount in, they does the rest and they are carbed to the right level when there is no sugar left.

Then you need to decided, usually by chilling one down and tasting, if it is conditioned enough for you. That may be a week or more beyond when they are carbed.

You don't want to really fridge til that work is done, because you will make the yeast go dormant if you fridge them. And interrupt their work.
 
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