ebay aquarium temp controller build

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Just added heating to mine last night. These things are incredibly simple to wire. My chamber was getting too cool to do temp increases at end of vigorous fermentation due to basement being in low 60s
 
I've read every post in this giant thread, and just today finished building my temp controller. Fired up and works perfectly.
got mine for $16 shipped, and all told it cost me 35 bucks. Not too shabby at all.
One question though, the space heater I was going to use has been taken to warm feet in the den, so I was wondering if my brewbelt will be good enough for heat purposes? My ferm cabinet is a 3 cubic foot freezer and i only ferment 5 gallons at a time, so the belt should work shouldnt it? The controller will kick it on and off just like the heater will wont it?
 
cridden said:
I've read every post in this giant thread, and just today finished building my temp controller. Fired up and works perfectly.
got mine for $16 shipped, and all told it cost me 35 bucks. Not too shabby at all.
One question though, the space heater I was going to use has been taken to warm feet in the den, so I was wondering if my brewbelt will be good enough for heat purposes? My ferm cabinet is a 3 cubic foot freezer and i only ferment 5 gallons at a time, so the belt should work shouldnt it? The controller will kick it on and off just like the heater will wont it?
Click to expand...

I'm using the fermwrap which is pretty much the same and it works fine. My house is usually ~62F and I can get my fridge up to 75F no problem.
 
I have 3 of these controllers. Pretty easy build, too, if you have some basic wiring skills. Just be careful if when you buy the temp controller-there are a lot of these listed on E-bay and they are not all 2 stage controllers for heating and cooling.
 
Sorry for the n00b question: How does an electronic temp controller *cool* down the water? I've never heard of this before...
 
StrangerDanger said:
Sorry for the n00b question: How does an electronic temp controller *cool* down the water? I've never heard of this before...
Click to expand...

It doesn't. It's like a thermostat that turns your chosen heating and cooling devices on and off as needed to maintain the specific temperature that you choose. Fridges and freezers are the most common choices for cooling devices.
 
Ok I read through a ton, not all, of this thread (most of it was over my head). I got my STC-1000 for 21 bucks shipped and received it yesterday so I'm going to start getting stuff together to do the build. Couple of questions (I apologize if they were already answered in this 86 page thread):

Is there danger in assembling the temp controller in a wood box? I'd like to make the controller part of my kitchen's decor.

Can I use a single receptacle if I'm only using the controller for cooling?

Like this:
single%20220v%20receptacle.jpg
 
A single receptacle is fine, they exist for this sort of application. A duplex receptacle may be cheaper though since they are more common.


The enclosure should really be something properly rated as an electrical equipment enclosure. No reason you can't cover that with wood for appearance.
 
Been reading this thread since yesterday and I'm in the process of gathering everything. I'm wondering if I am on the right track.

Black = hot
Gray = neutral
Green = ground

None of the the only connections are at the terminal block. The intersections are just wires passing each other.

Untitled_zpsddad255f.jpg
 
Thursday88 said:
Been reading this thread since yesterday and I'm in the process of gathering everything. I'm wondering if I am on the right track.

Black = hot
Gray = neutral
Green = ground

None of the the only connections are at the terminal block. The intersections are just wires passing each other.

Untitled_zpsddad255f.jpg
Click to expand...

You only need one neutral wire off the receptacle, not 2, there is still the bridge there that you don't need to break on the neutral side...other than that looks good
 
Another question. Would either of these be viable to wire up another receptacle for always hot?

1.
STC10002sockets_zps07cfe52b.jpg


Or add another terminal/block and a jumper to keep it at 2 wires per connection.
2.
STC10002socketsjumper_zps49e93d84.jpg


I know this is supposed to be a simple circuit and I think I might have it wired correctly but I wanted to make sure before I started.
 
If you have the two receptacles in a 2-gang box, you can just daisy chain the grounds and neutrals. This will reduce the amount of wires going back to the terminal block.
 
Huaco said:
If you have the two receptacles in a 2-gang box, you can just daisy chain the grounds and neutrals. This will reduce the amount of wires going back to the terminal block.
Click to expand...

Well they will be on opposite sides of the box. So would a daisy chain still be a good alternative?
 
Thursday88 said:
Well they will be on opposite sides of the box. So would a daisy chain still be a good alternative?
Click to expand...

Probably not.
How many posts will your terminal block have? You could just install 2 small terminal blocks... a hot and a neutral block each. You will easily be able to connect both grounds to one post of the terminal block if you make sure to cut your jumper short of that "ground" post on the terminal block.
 
Huaco said:
Probably not.
How many posts will your terminal block have? You could just install 2 small terminal blocks... a hot and a neutral block each. You will easily be able to connect both grounds to one post of the terminal block if you make sure to cut your jumper short of that "ground" post on the terminal block.
Click to expand...

I can do whatever. I did another two without the blocks should be a little clearer and easier to fit in a tighter space. This is with twist caps. The only thing is I'm not sure if I've isolated one of the receptacles in the first one. I have a limited knowledge when it comes to electricity and circuits but from what I understand #1 should be fine, not 100% yet.

Thanks for your help.

1. The first receptacle that the incoming wire comes into is my always hot.
STC10002socketsjumper_zpsec3f60e2.jpg



2. This is splitting the ground and neutral before the terminal.
STC10002socketsmorecaps_zps93e48076.jpg
 
My Ranco got the E2 kiss of death and won't cycle anymore. A friend of mine bought 6 of these controllers and they shipped the 240V ones even though he ordered 110. They just gave him credit so they were free and he gave me 3.

I pulled it apart and converted it to 9VAC so I mounted a power supply in the box. I had all of the parts except the power supply and that cost me $3.50

9E4246DB-806A-4613-8DEE-96C7E884EFFB-2833-00000274D1A957DE_zps5bdfd056.jpg


E310D620-25AD-46DB-935A-9238BD292188-3785-0000036B6F929CE1_zps555d588b.jpg


3D2BAAFC-431D-4C82-86FF-5BBAAA2EB1C2-3785-0000036B8354B7A5_zps8e20981b.jpg
 
image-1372285739.jpg

Just need to test it now! Super easy to build and looks great! Thanks to everyone who posted wiring and materials to use. Made the build quick, cheap, and painless.
 
Just got mine and I have a question what should I set the delay time for the compressor at for a fridge.
 
Just got mine all set up and was wondering what a good setting would be for the commpressor delay
 
Even though mine says STC-1000 on the front i'm thinking it's a knock off. I see pictures of others that has the degree symbol and "C" for Celsius but mine doesn't show that. Not a big deal and it's working fine but makes me wonder now.
 
Loodachris said:
Even though mine says STC-1000 on the front i'm thinking it's a knock off. I see pictures of others that has the degree symbol and "C" for Celsius but mine doesn't show that. Not a big deal and it's working fine but makes me wonder now.
Click to expand...

As long as it works it should be fine I noticed earlier in the thread there is another post with a controller without the c so who knows
 
Loodachris said:
Even though mine says STC-1000 on the front i'm thinking it's a knock off. I see pictures of others that has the degree symbol and "C" for Celsius but mine doesn't show that. Not a big deal and it's working fine but makes me wonder now.
Click to expand...

Mine doesn't have it either but yeah it works fine so who cares :mug:
 
i never paid attention but now i think mine doesn't have "C" neither, got it a year ago and its working great so dont worry (i checked temp multiple times with 2 thermometers and its very close)
 
I took a flash light to the screen and I can see the degree symbol and the "C" but it's not lit up. Maybe I got a version 1 or something. No worries it's doing what It's supposed to do.
 

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