Igloo Kegerator at Walmart - $369

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I decided to go a different route since I only want two taps. I've searched the forums after the poster above me suggested the sleeve extending the tower to three taps. Looks like you can make a 2.5 inch tower into two taps with a little finesse.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/2-faucets-2-5-draft-tower-313516/

I bought another 2.5 inch tower to work with that should fit the locking coupler that comes with the fridge so I won't have to make any mods on the fridge like drilling. If I had used the original draft tower, I could have drilled new flange holes to accommodate a 45 degree turn of the tower instead of a 90 (there are only four holes on the tower flange). The tower is cheap, and if I ever have any problems with the keggerator, I can always return it unmodified with the original tower.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNZKWE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I'll see where this goes, it would be nice to keep the fridge as stock as possible. I'll keep you guys updated.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thats the thread I used to make mine a 2 tap last spring, but this fall i realized I could fit a pin lock converted to a ball lock on the hump of the back of mine (not an igloo). So 3 faucets became a requirement. Let me know how it works out for you I am looking at one of these igloos for a buddy of mine.
 
gauvinej said:
Thats the thread I used to make mine a 2 tap last spring, but this fall i realized I could fit a pin lock converted to a ball lock on the hump of the back of mine (not an igloo). So 3 faucets became a requirement. Let me know how it works out for you I am looking at one of these igloos for a buddy of mine.
Click to expand...

I was wondering how you handled placement of the elbow shanks in your tower so they wouldn't hit each other. Did you bend the shanks in order to have them cross past each other. The thread I consulted about another 2.5" draft tower mod didn't indicate if these was any modifications done to the shanks. I was almost considering using these if they were stainless steel : http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1758
 
I used the original elbow shank and the part you are showing. I did bend the elbow shank because the link still got in the way.

How well does the Igloo cool? Does the tower get cold or did everyone have to install fans? I had a cheap kegerator before and had to install the fans for tower cooling.
 
It's not very cold up in the tower. I may be doing a fan mod to the tower at some point. Were those stainless steel shanks you bent? I imagine they are going to be very brittle and hard to bend. I did pick up an Oetiker clamper to cut down on the space used by clamps. That shank I posted in my last post does look tempting if its all SS.
 
I received one of these for Christmas. I think the compressor is very loud when running (knocking/pinging). It's much louder than mini fridges's I've had. Hopefully they are not all like this...
 
So I have this. I have been trying to get a Yuengling keg to pour correctly....

I get foam out the wazu. I have taken apart the thermostat and turned the red screw about 4-6 revs (approx) to the right (clockwise) the best temp has got is 39F. I have a tower fan, and the tower has condensation, so I know it's chilling.

I get 80% foam with all PSI's between 5-14. If I use the lower PSI I get 30% foam but flatter beer.

I also have ice build up on inside coils, but don't know how to make this go away. I thought compressor ran excessively until I read this thread. The unit is 4-5" from wall, well ventalated.

Very frustrated.
 
Temp actually has risen from 39 to 43. What could be going on? If I'm turning screw and getting the frost did I go too far? How is it getting warmer! I have a pint of water in bottom middle of fridge.
 
Hmm haven't made any mods to my thermostat control and I'm still getting 38 degree liquid temps. I added 10 feet of 3/16" tubing to combat the foaming issues I've encountered. Made a big difference from what appears to be about 4-5 feet the thing came with.
 
I have gotten frost on my coils but that's when I'm constantly opening and closing the door while working on it. My kitchen can get pretty cold at times which might explain why I'm getting better temperatures without any adjustments to the thermostat unit.
 
Thanks for replies! I'm sure my frost is due to opening and closing. My room temp is about 72-74F so not above normal I don't think.

I just poured a flat 80% foam beer. The keg has been at 12PSI for past 16 hours, and temp looks to be right at 39F. Can I re-carb this beer?? Ugh. I am looking now for 10ft beer lines as mentioned in other reply.

Am I turning the screw the correct way to lower temp, I'm turning clockwise, and I would guess it's in the 4-6 turn from stock at this point.
 
I'm pouring just around 9 PSI at about 38-40 degrees. Still getting some foam with the tubing that could be attributed a bit to the uneven cooling of the tower but perhaps the faucets too. A few posts ago I mentioned I was working on converting it to a double faucet setup. That's still in the works so ill keep you posted. I've heard some people claim that having a 1/4" faucet shank works better to cut down on foaming than 3/16" on the shank and the lines. The shank I picked up is 1/4" and am planning on upgrading to Perlicks. (Possibly flow controls, although I wish they were made in stainless)
 
You should be able to recarb it just fine if you keep it at the right pressure and temps. Might have to guestimate it off the style if its a commercial beer that doesn't let you know the carbonation levels. The new beer line will really help you get the serving and carbonation pressures close to the same. I have to pour on a pretty severe angle with the current stock faucet to avoid foam.
 
I rigged up a computer case fan to hang from the ceiling and pointed it at the cooling plate to circulate the cool air. I still get ice on my coils too, but I defrost after every keg change, so I don't get too worried about it.
 
The first issue I am hearing is the cooling one, I took the temp gauge out from behind the "cooling Panel" which is really the freezer basket which in most mini fridges just straightened out and screwed into the back wall. This gives the temp regulating device a very unrealistic reading. If you do put it in the middle of the fridge or in a glass of liquid to get what the beer temp might be that will drop the temp guaranteed. The one crux is that this might make it get to cold. I do not have the red version screw on my fridge but I turn mine counter clockwise for cold and clockwise for warmer temps. I did find out that the Wal-Mart Igloo is a dupe or clone of another fridge whose name I cannot remember at this moment so perhaps you got that variant. Either way the fridge works fine but is probably a bit of an energy hog for its size. Problem 2 foaming. I used the copper pipe trick and it worked fairly well, cheap, easy and effective compared to the alternative. I cannot speak about line lengths because I do not know enough about this. I can say that I have read numerous times that it has a very big effect on how well the kegs work and in foam reduction. I would personally work on getting the temp correct then try the copper pipe trick that I put in this thread (9 bucks to make this happen). Once both the temp and the pipe are done you should have very little issues beyond possible replacing the tubing but I have not needed to as of yet. I now get great poors with very little head other than what I allow during the pooring process. Good luck!
 
thanks jmaccool for the direction on the screw, I will do about 7 revolutions the other way to undo my warming then and be ~3 revs to the cooler side.

Is anyone not happy with the Sankey valve that comes with this unit? I've read this can be a foam issue too. I dialed my PSI back to 6 per the local brew store employee and after a pitcher or two I'm about 40% foam so I'm a lil happier after that adjustment.
 
Jsherm007 said:
thanks jmaccool for the direction on the screw, I will do about 7 revolutions the other way to undo my warming then and be ~3 revs to the cooler side.

Is anyone not happy with the Sankey valve that comes with this unit? I've read this can be a foam issue too. I dialed my PSI back to 6 per the local brew store employee and after a pitcher or two I'm about 40% foam so I'm a lil happier after that adjustment.
Click to expand...

I would still recommend moving the temp gauge, it takes seconds just be careful when handling it, you do not want to crack it. There are two or three screws and the gauge is mounted using a plastic clip device, very easy to remove. If you do that you will not have to decrease the temp contol device, may even have to turn it down a bit. JMHO!
 
jmaccool said:
I would still recommend moving the temp gauge, it takes seconds just be careful when handling it, you do not want to crack it. There are two or three screws and the gauge is mounted using a plastic clip device, very easy to remove. If you do that you will not have to decrease the temp contol device, may even have to turn it down a bit. JMHO!
Click to expand...

So I loosened the screws on the chill plate and tried to pop the temp probe off the back. Is it glued or taped into place some way? I'm having a bit of a hard time moving it and I can really see what the problem is. I don't want to move the plate anymore and risk kinking the coolant line.
 
Dan2539 said:
So I loosened the screws on the chill plate and tried to pop the temp probe off the back. Is it glued or taped into place some way? I'm having a bit of a hard time moving it and I can really see what the problem is. I don't want to move the plate anymore and risk kinking the coolant line.
Click to expand...

We have the same fridge, so the probe should be held in the same manner as mine. It is held in place by a plastic clip with 4 clip teeth that are fairly small and innocuous right near one of the screws holes. Just get a small screw driver and push the clips through the clip opening and the probe come right out.
 
jmaccool said:
We have the same fridge, so the probe should be held in the same manner as mine. It is held in place by a plastic clip with 4 clip teeth that are fairly small and innocuous right near one of the screws holes. Just get a small screw driver and push the clips through the clip opening and the probe come right out.
Click to expand...

Hmm I undid those clips but it seems like its also taped or something. I might just run a Johnson controller on this, my problem is that it's constantly staying at sub forties regardless of the thermostat setting.
 
Dan2539 said:
Hmm I undid those clips but it seems like its also taped or something. I might just run a Johnson controller on this, my problem is that it's constantly staying at sub forties regardless of the thermostat setting.
Click to expand...

It is staying at that temp because it thinks it is as cold as the cooling plate. The cooling plate is not a cooling plate, it is the freezer basket that comes in so many of the mini-fridges out there. This one just so happened to be done by pros so it looks like it was meant to be something else. I promise you that is the cheesy "U" shaped mini freezer that is in almost every mini-fridge. The thermometer is behind that and the freezer is much colder than the ambient temp of the fridge so the fridge thinks it is cold when it is not. I promise that the temp gauge line will come out and you will not damage anything. Just be gentle but obstinate. The place it wherever you want. I gentle wrapped it around my copper cooling pipe for the beer line, figured if it was touching that it would have a fairly good reading.

John M.
 
If you want it warmer then you will have to go into the thermostat housing and adjust the screw. Just back out the three screws, pull the dial out, look for the one screw and turn it righty-tighty. Do not go more than on wrist movement or one full turn of the screw. The screw even has a very small pick of a smaller to larger crescent design showing the cooling factor. Like an old school RPM gauge, starts at a point then it widens. This will increase the temp for sure.

John M.
 
I'm confounded by this thing. Where is the set screw? This is my first keg system and I cannot figure this out.
 
Woz said:
I'm confounded by this thing. Where is the set screw? This is my first keg system and I cannot figure this out.
Click to expand...

You have to unscrew the temp control box from the fridge by removing the 3 screws and then pull the temp dial out (the temp dial just pulls out. At that point carefully examine the device and you will see a screw, unplug the fridge before you do this or be very careful of the electrical leads a you examine the device. If you turn the screw clockwise or tighten it the fridge will get warmer, counter clockwise or loosen and it will get colder. I left my temp regulator dangling until I got the temp to where I desired.

John M.
 
Yup, have a second tap added but with an aftermarket tower I scored for cheap. I intend on posting pics very soon since my projects are nearly done on it. Just ran a temperature controller on the setup and have been messing around with that for a little while to determine my temp probe reading vs actual beer temp. I think the probe placement I have now works. I don't know about anyone else, but the thermostat on my unit really doesn't seem to make a significant difference turned from min to max. Hopefully this temp controller lets me really tune in on the temps I want for lagering and accurate carbonation.
 
jmaccool said:
You have to unscrew the temp control box from the fridge by removing the 3 screws and then pull the temp dial out (the temp dial just pulls out. At that point carefully examine the device and you will see a screw, unplug the fridge before you do this or be very careful of the electrical leads a you examine the device. If you turn the screw clockwise or tighten it the fridge will get warmer, counter clockwise or loosen and it will get colder. I left my temp regulator dangling until I got the temp to where I desired.

John M.
Click to expand...

Thanks John. Ill look into possibly modifying the thermostat in conjunction to using a temp controller to hit lower temps when I wish.
 
mblowers said:
I received one of these for Christmas. I think the compressor is very loud when running (knocking/pinging). It's much louder than mini fridges's I've had. Hopefully they are not all like this...
Click to expand...

Mine is. Way too loud and rattley for the location I have it (which is pretty much the only location).

I'm thinking of going with a better quality unit. Mine's too loud.
 
dbatech99 said:
Mine is. Way too loud and rattley for the location I have it (which is pretty much the only location).

I'm thinking of going with a better quality unit. Mine's too loud.
Click to expand...

I don't know if its a quality control issue with these compressors or if if its just a result of Walmart's terrible shipping practices. I myself had a slight dent on the side of my unit when it arrived but many people spoke of the unit being very badly dented. My compressor seems to work ok, just too much. I'm incorporating a blower fan and a Johnson controller to help resolve some of this. The door seals seem tight.
 
I think for the price it is qc issues. Mine didn't have a dent from shipping, but the door has a huge shallow wave that reflects a distortion. Doesn't look good. I would be happy if the compressor didn't sound like a small aircraft. LOL.
 
I'm still having issues with this kegerator.. I have adjusted the temperature by getting the thermostat out from behind the coils, it's at 35F now given the water glass inside and thermometer. I have the standard beer line that came with it and a 1/4 barrel Yeungling keg. I have a tower cooler fan too.

I went to the local brew supply store to buy longer line, I've heard this can help, the masters there said to turn down the PSI to 6. I get a mostly decent pour from this but I'm at 30% head on most pours. But the beer coming out looks foamy. I see bubbles in the line inside too. There was one time when I was messing with thermostat and froze the keg, ironically the time that happened the beer pour of what was in the line was perfect (still at 6 PSI). The keg has since thawed and pressurized at 6 PSI.

Previously I had issues when temp was in the high 30's / low 40's and I had PSI's in the 10-12 range and it was ALL FOAM, I probably wasted 1/2 a keg of beer that time. So things are better now, but I'm not happy yet. Suggestions?
 
Jsherm007 said:
I'm still having issues with this kegerator.. I have adjusted the temperature by getting the thermostat out from behind the coils, it's at 35F now given the water glass inside and thermometer. I have the standard beer line that came with it and a 1/4 barrel Yeungling keg. I have a tower cooler fan too.

I went to the local brew supply store to buy longer line, I've heard this can help, the masters there said to turn down the PSI to 6. I get a mostly decent pour from this but I'm at 30% head on most pours. But the beer coming out looks foamy. I see bubbles in the line inside too. There was one time when I was messing with thermostat and froze the keg, ironically the time that happened the beer pour of what was in the line was perfect (still at 6 PSI). The keg has since thawed and pressurized at 6 PSI.

Previously I had issues when temp was in the high 30's / low 40's and I had PSI's in the 10-12 range and it was ALL FOAM, I probably wasted 1/2 a keg of beer that time. So things are better now, but I'm not happy yet. Suggestions?
Click to expand...

I have very little issues with my keg, the only thing I did was get the thermostat issue worked out and I placed a copper pipe over the beer line to keep it cool. I have very little foam and none after the first pour when my friends and I are drinking enough that the beer line cannot get warm at all. If I had a tower cooler it would be even better but the copper pipe made a real difference. I can only say obviously make sure you are pouring correctly and keep lowering the PSI by very little at a time until it stops being so foamy. Do you know how to pour a beer? Not trying to be funny, if you have never been shown you might be doing it wrong. Go look online for a video unless you know what you are doing.
 
Jsherm007 said:
I'm still having issues with this kegerator.. I have adjusted the temperature by getting the thermostat out from behind the coils, it's at 35F now given the water glass inside and thermometer. I have the standard beer line that came with it and a 1/4 barrel Yeungling keg. I have a tower cooler fan too.

I went to the local brew supply store to buy longer line, I've heard this can help, the masters there said to turn down the PSI to 6. I get a mostly decent pour from this but I'm at 30% head on most pours. But the beer coming out looks foamy. I see bubbles in the line inside too. There was one time when I was messing with thermostat and froze the keg, ironically the time that happened the beer pour of what was in the line was perfect (still at 6 PSI). The keg has since thawed and pressurized at 6 PSI.

Previously I had issues when temp was in the high 30's / low 40's and I had PSI's in the 10-12 range and it was ALL FOAM, I probably wasted 1/2 a keg of beer that time. So things are better now, but I'm not happy yet. Suggestions?
Click to expand...

Did you buy 3/16" line? That's what I'm using and what most keggerator systems should use. With ten foot coiled at the bottom of the fridge, I have almost no issues with foaming at 12 PSI serving pressures.
 

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