1" half coupler and heater element

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milldoggy

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I just got in my 1" half couplers from mainlandvalve. I tested them on my elements(camco 5500 ulwd ones) and they thread like a NPT pipe. I was expecting them to thread all the way on to the gasket since the elements is not tapered threads(NPS I think). Since they stop like a standard npt, should I assume they will be leak free with some telfon tape? Going to give the couplers to the welder on monday to weld on. Should I order the NPS nuts from Bargin fittings? I need to order my camlocks anyways. I just want to get the welds done, they already did all the 1/2 stuff. I guess I could also order a 1" tap and redo the threads if I had to, but I think they are expensive.
 
I have 1" NPS half couplers welded into my keg. It just takes some tightening, but the orings seal down. You might need to remove and reinstall the element a few times, but mine now seal well.
 
Are these half couplings NPS or NPT? If they are NPS fine but from the OP you alluded that they are NPT which will not work. Either way you should not be using teflon tape for a heater element as it means that you are using the wrong thread type.
 
couplers are NPT, I searched and tons of people use them for elements. I was just concerned because one of the couplers does not screw on very far.
 
You probably know this, but if the TV doesn't work, check if it's plugged in: did you try both sides of the coupler? Half-couplers will only thread in properly from one side.

-Joe
 
So I took a wrench out, I was able to screw it on a lot further. I screwed in on and off a few times and it does seat nicely now. It comes close to the gasket. So once I install it in the 2 gang box, it will seal up.

thanks for the suggestion wh4tig0t
 
couplers are NPT, I searched and tons of people use them for elements. I was just concerned because one of the couplers does not screw on very far.

Hmmm... Ok. I wouldn't think that would be a good idea but it if works so be it. I'll stick with the NPS fittings that bargain fittings sells and eliminate the ambiguity.
 
Been using 1 inch half couplers for elements for years no problems. I just cut a full coupler in half.

Just stop and think a minute a coupler has taper thread but they are inside the coupler not at the start. The thread at the start are about as straight as your going to get. The electric element is only going in two to two half threads.

You can screw up taping with a pipe tap and go to far and end up with no taper and all straight threads. Just take a look at a tap.

Here is a picture of half coupler tig welded to Tri half for removeable element

MVC-087S.jpg


The half of the tri welds into the pot or keg. Just remove the clamp and the electric element and box comes off in one piece. No wiring to unhook. That last photo don't show the two taps the are welded to the element half tri that bolt to the box.


God bless
Swagman
MVC-082S-1.jpg
 
Thanks Swagman, makes me feel better. I cut the holes in my outlet box today. Ready to mount it once I get my keggles back.
 
For what it's worth...I had a 1" half coupler welded to my keg from Sabco for my HLT and it ended up working fine. It was a bit tight, but with a 2 gang outlet box and a wrench I was able to get a leak free connection with out the use of teflon tape.
DSC_0720-2.jpg
 
For what it's worth...I had a 1" half coupler welded to my keg from Sabco for my HLT and it ended up working fine. It was a bit tight, but with a 2 gang outlet box and a wrench I was able to get a leak free connection with out the use of teflon tape.
DSC_0720-2.jpg

Damn bro, that coupling is located right at the 4 gallon fill location on a keg, anything below 4 1/2 gallon heating I would fear burning up the element.
Was this a Sabco's set location or your location per instructions?
I find this way too high of location.
 
It will work. I was skeptical myself :D Do as has been described above....I also chose to goop the threads with silicone adhesive. It's food grade, temp stable, and waterproof. Just be sure to let it cure.
 
Swagman, thats awesome!
I was thinking about this a while back.
Now, if there was a way to attatch the 1st tri to the kettle weldlessly, that would be the ultimate! I'd buy that today.
 
Swagman, thats awesome!
.


That is beautiful, easily unplug the element for cleaning the pot / element...that IS the way to do it if you are so inclined...nice work as always Swag. Wish I was closer, I'd be a regular customer out back.:mug:

Oh, and thanks again for the sanke spirials you graciously mailed out a while back...much appreciated!
 
That is beautiful, easily unplug the element for cleaning the pot / element...that IS the way to do it if you are so inclined...nice work as always Swag. Wish I was closer, I'd be a regular customer out back.:mug:

Oh, and thanks again for the sanke spirials you graciously mailed out a while back...much appreciated!

Your most welcome
Since we are talking electric element and since I'm a tool nut here is photo of a cheap socket used by plumbers. You can buy just one or in a complete set called plumbers cow bells. It fits the element so you can tight things up.
Purchased at you local hardware. This one measures 1.5 across the flats.

MVC-283S.jpg



God Bless
Dominus Vobiscum
Swagman
 
Damn bro, that coupling is located right at the 4 gallon fill location on a keg, anything below 4 1/2 gallon heating I would fear burning up the element.
Was this a Sabco's set location or your location per instructions?
I find this way too high of location.

Well, I didn't worry too much about that because the method I use for sparging is to heat the HLT up to 175 then I turn off the heating element as I sparge. So, there should never be a time when I'd have to worry about firing it dry as long as I'm consistent in my brewing day. Although I could see how that location might make some nervous
 
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