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I found this tidbit of info for addressing the oxidation problem. Here is the link; Homebrewed Cask Ales

It looks like if you follow sonvolts basic design then incorporate the LPG regulator you are good to go.

The LPG regulator will give the keg 1/2 psi. Just enough to keep CO2 in the keg.

I picked up a LPG regulator from Menards for $10 and a miniature 0-120psi regulator for $19.

1569_pd493354_1.GIF


t20883.jpg
 
Man you're bumping this thread up as often as some horny brewer's used to bump a certain other thread! :D

You've a beer geek dontja know.

Glad to see someone do this cool thing again....It's on my list when space no longer becomes an issue.
 
Did you guys get a look at this link? Homebrewed Cask Ales

The whole oxidation thing had me bummed earlier, but the LPG regulator seems to work like a breather. (...Thinking about my gas grill....) It won't be a true real ale as CAMRA would state, but as you both know its not real practical for the home brewer unless you are a lush! :D
 
That's why I plan to use minikegs... then I should kick a keg in ~3-4 days and should get a pretty authentic real ale type situation.

I haven't made this yet because I am currently upgrading to handle lagers. I think I will do this next fall...
 
Awesome! I want to build one! What do you use as a breather for the Cornelius? Contamination problems? Special brewing technique for the beer?
 
Awesome! I want to build one! What do you use as a breather for the Cornelius? Contamination problems? Special brewing technique for the beer?

I understand the best way to get around the problem is to put on a LPG low pressure regulator on the Gas IN. It delivers 1/2 a psi to the cornie. You always has some gas with slightly positive pressure. The hand pump just needs to be 11" above the keg so it doesn't leak.

Look at my post above you can get these from Menards/Home Depot/Lowes.
 
Damn if I don't have a bad itch to make one these....

Sonvolt - Are you MIA or KIA?

Oh well, I bought my Valterra Rocket pump today. I'm curious what size beer line was used 1/4 or 5/16? The hose barb on the pump is 3/8. Its larger than the standard beer line.

I've been debating on whether to build this sucker into a cooler or make into bolt-on counter top model. Try to make a replica with molded retangular wood box (about the size of a nice 5th of scotch would come in), using rossettes or plinth blocks then add on a SS drip tray.

RO512BEVMAP.jpg
PB312EMB.jpg
driptray-4x1.jpg


I have be also considering converting a microwave cart.

digimarc.ms


Such tough decisions.....
 
This is the best thread I think I have ever seen... I have been trying to think of a legitimate way to dispense cask ale since I took a class in London in 2000... This may be a stupid question, but I do not understand how you integrate the LPG regulator into the CO2 line (I have not seen one of the adapters in person, so I apologize if it is obvious when you see it). Can you just get barbs to adapt to the threads on the regulator? Does it down regulate the 10-12psi in my line to the 1/2psi? Here is a link to a thread on Northern Brewer that designs an adapter for mini kegs for CO2 ( The Northern Brewer Homebrew Forum • View topic - New design for DIY 5L mini keg taps (Lots of Pics) ). If I were going to use the mini kegs in a dorm fridge design (mine is the larger dorm fridge), could I split the line after the regulator to go to both kegs? How come just when I think I am done needing something for my brewing I find something new???
 
This may be a stupid question, but I do not understand how you integrate the LPG regulator into the CO2 line (I have not seen one of the adapters in person, so I apologize if it is obvious when you see it). Can you just get barbs to adapt to the threads on the regulator? Does it down regulate the 10-12psi in my line to the 1/2psi? Here is a link to a thread on Northern Brewer that designs an adapter for mini kegs for CO2 ( The Northern Brewer Homebrew Forum • View topic - New design for DIY 5L mini keg taps (Lots of Pics) ). If I were going to use the mini kegs in a dorm fridge design (mine is the larger dorm fridge), could I split the line after the regulator to go to both kegs? How come just when I think I am done needing something for my brewing I find something new???

This is how I will connect my LPG regulator to any keg.
1569_pd493354_1.GIF

I will remove this LPG Tank brass fitting in this regulator and put 5/16 hose barbs on either side. I believe the regulator has 3/8" NPT threads (not 100% sure could be 1/4" NPT). I also plan to attach a ball valve to this as well. After that comes a hose with a gray corny disconnect. I plan to connect this to a gas regulator or right up to a paintball adapter fitting.

Yes is the answer to your question about knocking 10-12 psi down to 1/2 psi. This will require 11" of head, meaning that the hand pump must be 11" above the fluid level so it won't leak out on its own. This 1/2 psi & 11" head is a standard or fixed gas set-up so it delivers low pressure to say like a BBQ grill. Its delivers a very small amount of gas to the burner. Totally different than a turkey fryer regulator. The regular on a fryer is variable so you can adjust the flame intensity.

I imagine that you could "T" this off many times to supply several kegs with gas as a 1/2psi it won't be hard to deliver since there will be several hundred pounds available in a tank.

I can't wait to get this set-up myself.
 
Thanks for clearing that up. It makes a lot more sense now with the removal of the input portion. I think I might put an in-line filter in after it just in case...
 
Coffeeaddictnova said:
Wild, thanks so much for the pictures. Is there any chance you can post them to that Homebrewtalk thread I referred to (i.e, "meet my beer engine")?
I thought I had posted these before:
Front...
HandPumpFront.jpg

Back...
HandPumpBack.jpg

Inside...
HandPumpInards.jpg
 
I used to live in the U.K and kind of took cask ale for granted. It was in almost any pub I went into and cheaper than the keg beer by about 60p. In Canada I have to travel across the city to get cask ale, I don't know what's on and am often paying over 6% a pint... a US pint that is (I think).

So, I decided to brew my own.
 
Wow, I just stumbled upon this thread today (I think I saw it before but didn't pay much attention) One of the best threads I've seen on HBT. After reading this, I REALLY want to build one!

Prost!
 
I feel guilty as hell. Have lived in the UK since birth (32 years) and only been drinking cask ales in pubs for the last couple of years. I totally take it for granted. Every UK pub has them nearly. A pub near me has just has 14 days of 100 cask ales! They had to build a temp bar. I suppose the UK has to have something over it's US brothers!

Will never again take my ales for granted.

Mark
 
I just damn him with teasing us, and saying he has too many projects before he can get around to doing it...Otherwise I think the idea is the tits!!!!!

Or are these the tits?

So, I was up all night thinking about this. Trying to get hold of those mini-kegs, trying to get hold of CO2 cannisters, regulators, how much would it cost, Oooh, I'm a bit strapped for cash at the moment, but I want, I want...

Then I thought that anything you bottle in can but used as a cask. If I can't do a 5 litre-mini keg then I could get one of those 3.75litre juice bottles and use that as a cask, or even a 2 litre bottle. Or if I'm having a party, I could fill up a carboy and use that as a cask.

Look at what this chap does with his beer engine.

JIM'S BEER KIT: HOMEBREW FORUM • View topic - Hand Pulled Pint

No bung, no air filter.
 
Think before you post.

I found it. I cleverly inserted "brewer's" before "air filter". Only 5 bucks. lovely.

Sorry for being a twit.
 
Hello all,

Do you find that set up does an adequate job cooling the beer? I just ordered parts to build one and i calculated that you would need 50 feet of 5/8 inch tubing to have 2 pints worth of beer in the cooler at a time. If the beer cools down quickly enough on its way through though you wouldnt need that much line. How does yours do?

BJ
 
That's superb! I'd like to have a go at setting up something similar.

Just a couple of questions. Do you let air into that cubitainer? How are you connecting your tube to said cubitainer?
 
"Do you let air into that cubitainer?"
Yes and no. Once you let air in, the beer will only last three more days. So- if you going to drink it all in three days, you can let some air in for it to develop the cask ale flavors.

"How are you connecting your tube to said cubitainer?"
You get a 38mm quick serve spigot that acts as the cap for the cubitainer and the tubing fits onto it.
Here's the link for the cubitainers and spigot Cube® Insert with Cubitainer® System - US Plastic Corporation

1 gallon cubitainers seem to work best.
 
when I read beer engine I was imagining a motor that was driven by CO2 pressure made during fermentation, all being filled up at the local wort station, bunch of dudes syphoning finished beer out of their car's fuel tank, vertical exhaust pipes with a bubble lock at the top. You couldn't go very far with a car like that, but the party would come to you. Real Ale seems pretty cool though. Have to try that.
 
Has anyone had issues with their Valterra Rocket Hand Pump? I just got one for my forthcoming beer engine experiment, but I'm finding that it's leaking water from the arm.

Any help is appreciated. If I can get this working I'll post picks of my setup.
 
Has anyone had issues with their Valterra Rocket Hand Pump? I just got one for my forthcoming beer engine experiment, but I'm finding that it's leaking water from the arm.

Any help is appreciated. If I can get this working I'll post picks of my setup.

Are you leaving the arm forward? If so, this causes leaks.
Try keeping it to the rear. Mebbe that'll help.
 
There is something rattling inside it, and liquid leaks from the arm during use (not when still).

I'm guessing that I got a bad pump.
 
I had an idea in lieu of using the propane regulator to prevent oxidation. What if you hooked a second keg, purged with CO2, but not pressurized, directly to the gas-in on the beer keg?

The layout would be: Beer Engine hooked to OUT on beer keg > beer keg > jumper between beer keg IN and CO2 keg OUT > CO2 keg.

The CO2 keg would have to have its pressure release valve open while using the engine, but since CO2 is heavier than air, the CO2 would stay in the CO2 keg. CO2 would feed from the CO2 keg bottom into the dead space in the beer keg as beer was pulled. Any air getting into the CO2 keg should stay near the top if undisturbed. In actuality the air will no doubt mix with the CO2 somewhat, but it would still be a lower percentage of O2 than straight air.

Anyone with an empty keg and 2 spare disconnects could rig this up in no time.
 
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