Bubbles in my beer line?!......!!*%&#@!!

Hi to all.
So, I inherited a keggerator system from a friend and it had a ton of great stuff already for set up. I pressure-tested the keg I was to use, sanitized it and put beer in it. I bought new gas lines (1/4 inch) about 4 feet long for the gas ball lock fitting(barbed) and put dog-ear clamps on them. I also bought new 3/16 inch hose for the beer line and hooked it up to a new beer ball lock MLF fitting using Oetiker clamps. The distance from the center of the keg to the bottom of the tap is 17 inches and calculates out to only 3 feet of 3/16 inch hose. I ignored this and doubled the length to 6 feet of hose thinking if it was too long I could always cut it down. The serving pressure of the ESB I have on tap is 9psi which is more than what an ESB calls for but I think it is still ok. The problem I am having is, I get air bubbles in my beer line. No matter how long it runs, I see small bubbles coming from the "beer out" side. I figure if I had a leak I'd see beer coming out, but I don't and it doesn't seem to be coming from any fitting. Could it be the pick up tube on the inside of the beer out side or what am I missing? I've tried to keep them out a number of ways but they just keep coming back.... Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Joe

How do you carb your kegs?

Mike

I could be wrong here but I think you're worrying over nothing.

The bubbles are most likely co2 being knocked out of solution as it goes through the fittings and into the hose. The co2's gotta come out sometime. Better out than in. And if your keg is keeping pressure and not spewing beer all over the place then there is nothing else that it could be.

I carb my kegs at 30-40 psi for 24-48 hours. I'll bleed the pressure down to the psi I need and then serve. I probably am just worrying over nothing but, the ESB has a lot of head but isn't overly carbed. I am just wondering if the bubbles are contributing to it. If not, then I'm pretty sure I have OCD and just need to chill.

PetVet said:

I carb my kegs at 30-40 psi for 24-48 hours. I'll bleed the pressure down to the psi I need and then serve. I probably am just worrying over nothing but, the ESB has a lot of head but isn't overly carbed. I am just wondering if the bubbles are contributing to it. If not, then I'm pretty sure I have OCD and just need to chill.

Click to expand...

Yes, I think that OCD is the problem . How long did you wait after you force carbed it to take a test pour? In my opinion, it is very difficult to force carb to the right pressure then have a good pour. Usually I over carb the beer slightly and have to wait a couple of more days for it to equalize (by bleeding the keg)
Dont worry, you seem to be doing everything right, provided your fridge temp and tower temp are somwhere in the 40 degree range, you will be alright. It just takes a little time.

I have a similar problem...

My problem occurs with a sanke keg. Occasionally, I buy a 5 gallon for special occasions. Friday I bought a New Belgian, Hoptober for Poker Night. My sanke tap was getting a little beat and I had a pro-brewer come help me with it. He thought I had a bad tap that was letting air in so I dropped $70 on a brand new one. - No Help!

After a pour, bubbles escape the keg filling the line or some significant portion of it with air/bubbles. The next beer that is poured sputters and spits the until the line is clear which causes a screwball foamy pour!

We floated the keg Friday but I loved the beer and had to know if it was just the keg so I got a new one today...same freak'n thing!!!!!!

Someone, Please help, this is not normal!

It could be that you are applying less pressure than the beer is equalized at so it is off gassing and/or the temperature is different than it was equalized at. I had the same issue a while back because I dialed down the pressure a couple psi. I wouldn't worry about it, it'll even out eventually.

Your beer is overcarbonated, or your line is at a higher temperature than the keg.

No big deal. It will equalize eventually.

Did you buy thick-walled beer line? If one uses thinner walled stuff, it will actually expand a tiny bit under serving pressures and this allows some of the CO2 to come out of solution - especially as it sits overnight before the first pour the next day.

Not sure about the thickness, will check. Good tip, thanks!

Probably just a combination of temperature and pressures. My soda line spits and it's 20' of 3/16ths. The beer lines don't. Difference is 35 psi vs 10.

Overcarbonated beer in the keg is usually the culprit. I had the same issues before I got my system dialed in. I just rock the keg slightly and release keg pressure (with gas off) until the foaming stops...

PetVet said:

I carb my kegs at 30-40 psi for 24-48 hours. I'll bleed the pressure down to the psi I need and then serve. I probably am just worrying over nothing but, the ESB has a lot of head but isn't overly carbed. I am just wondering if the bubbles are contributing to it. If not, then I'm pretty sure I have OCD and just need to chill.

Click to expand...

There's your problem. You have CO2 coming out of solution due to the difference in pressure. You didn't bleed down to perfect equillibrium. If you do the set and forget method this isn't usually a problem.

Mike

pinarphan said:

I have a similar problem...

My sanke tap was getting a little beat and I had a pro-brewer come help me with it. He thought I had a bad tap that was letting air in so I dropped $70 on a brand new one. - No Help!

After a pour, bubbles escape the keg filling the line or some significant portion of it with air/bubbles. The next beer that is poured sputters and spits the until the line is clear which causes a screwball foamy pour!

We floated the keg Friday but I loved the beer and had to know if it was just the keg so I got a new one today...same freak'n thing!!!!!!

Someone, Please help, this is not normal!

Click to expand...

I'm amazed that a "pro-brewer" would be so uninformed as to think that air is being let in. This is pretty much impossible with a sealed pressurized system since the pressure would/could ONLY let air out not in. Air leaking in is not your problem. Bad tap is not your problem. Un balanced system is the only issue and it is easily solved.

Thank you to every one. After reading these posts, I do believe I have over carbed my brew and I'm obsessive compulsive. I do have Micromatic hoses and they are thick so I don't think expansion is the problem. I think I'll try bleeding pressure and letting it equalize. 'Course, it may be gone by that time I have another brew almost ready to keg. I am going to try the set it and forget it method and hopefully it'll be ok. Again, thanks to all, the info is awesome and the helpfulness from everyone makes it all the more enjoyable.

Start brewing enough to get a large pipeline going and buy another CO2 tank and fridge. Carb the beer in the fridge at serving pressure before transferring to serving fridge. Most of my beer is at least 3 months old before it hits the glass now and it couldn't be better.

Mike

Right you fellas are! Today, the keg is equalized and pours great with no bubbles.

Thanks for the help!

I've actually decreased the pressure to about 4 psi and I'm bleeding off pressure. Right now, it is still foamy but, if I give it time to equalize, I'm sure it'll be fine. I have another co2 tank so I may try the carbing in another fridge first for a while before tapping. Great advice guys.

Just DC the pressure, pull the bleeder, and let it sit. It will off gas some so you'll have to do it over and over again. Eventually you'll get it low enough and can reset at serving pressure.

Mike

I'm gonna have to do that. The low serving pressure isn't cuttin' it. Will start today. Need to brew more beer too.
Joe