Disconnects for Heat Exchanger Coil

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Bearcat Brewmeister

Pour, Drink, Pee, Repeat
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I am planning on using QDs on my heat exchanger copper coil in my HERMS. I was thinking of soldering copper threaded connections on the ends of the coil, attaching SS couplers to the threaded connections, and then connecting polysulphone QDs to the couplers. Anyone have an easier way of doing this? (trying to avoid brass)
 
swagelok tube adapters, connected to either tri clamps or camloks.

if i understand this right your trying to put them on the inside of the kettle? to quick detach your herms coil?
 
I am using Tri Clamps... they wont restrict the flow like QDs will or the CamLoks...

Sometimes the flow is not needed anyway, but in some cases I want the fastest flow possible, and TriClamps will afford you this luxury.
 
The biggest restriction on the camlock would be the hose barb and that doesn't change with tri-clamps. If you're using 1/2" ID silicone tubing, the best bet would be to use 3/4" barbs and stretch the tubing. Unfortunately with the camlocks, I think the nipple/couplings change sizes along with the hose barbs. Personally, I don't think the restriction is going to hurt anything. We throttle flows far more out of necessity than anything the QD is going to do and that is a huge price difference.
 
Bobby, keep in mind The Pol is designing a brand new system. I haven't speculated up to this point, but I am convinced he plans to use a jet engine to heat and recirculate. My guess is that he will manage to get the entire brew day to under 45 minutes. :D:D

Ed
 
Thanks for the link Bobby - awesome!

Cheaper than polysulfone QDs and one less part since the SS coupler would not be needed because there is availbility of a female NPT ended QD. I think these will work fine as it is not a through the wall design.

It looks like I do the following:
  • Solder on a male 1/2" NPT copper thread to the end of the coil
  • Go with either combination of 1/2" Part ‘A’ cam adaptor with female NPT thread and Part ‘C’ cam coupler with double ribbed hosetail or the combination of 1/2" Part ‘D’ cam coupler with female NPT thread and Part ‘E’ cam adaptor with double ribbed hosetail, depending on which side I want the coupler arms.
Correct?
 
Wow, these things look awesome. It doesn't look as if there is any flow restricion with the male adapters. No more than a full port ball valve....

What are the benefits of tri-clovers over camlocks? It seems like they are pretty similar...do TC's offer a lower profile?
 
Wow, these things look awesome. It doesn't look as if there is any flow restricion with the male adapters. No more than a full port ball valve....

What are the benefits of tri-clovers over camlocks? It seems like they are pretty similar...do TC's offer a lower profile?

Yah, I guess maybe there is no difference between the camloks and the TriClamps. A few of the photos I looked at made them look look as if the through hole was small, like the QDs I used to use.

Lower profile... well, it probably depends on where you are getting your TriClamps, I have seen a few different sizes with a 1/2" NPT or barb
 
I think the price difference is the main reason I'd look to the cam locks. If triclamps were even close, they'd be in the running for me. The fact that the type "F" is out of stock is a disappointment though because that's what I'd put on all my vessels.
 
I admit, TriClamps at $28 a pair arent "economical" but they just look cool
 
I admit, TriClamps at $28 a pair arent "economical" but they just look cool

Yeah, triclamps pretty much rock. I don't know what it is, but they're just super industrial looking. So, assuming you've drained your lines, do they dribble when you disconnect them? It seems you might have significant leakage once you open the clamp. I would think a camlock might catch a bit of fluid on the inner portion of the female coupler, right.

Can anyone comment on the stiffness of the camloks? I mean, everyone says they're difficult to snap down.....is it enough to be a PITA, or is it tolerable....:confused:
 
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