Why do people like better bottles so much?

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1776

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I got a couple recently and am using one currently as a primary. I like how light it is and all that but whenever I touch the thing it sucks in all the star-san thats in the airlock. Not a big deal but what if it's been sitting awhile, the solution in the air-lock could get nasty, dirt, fruit flies, whatever and all that is now in your brew.

Probably going to get rid of them and get some ale-pales for replacement. Do you guys experience this same thing?
 
1776 said:
I got a couple recently and am using one currently as a primary. I like how light it is and all that but whenever I touch the thing it sucks in all the star-san thats in the airlock. Not a big deal but what if it's been sitting awhile, the solution in the air-lock could get nasty, dirt, fruit flies, whatever and all that is now in your brew.

Probably going to get rid of them and get some ale-pales for replacement. Do you guys experience this same thing?
Click to expand...

Milk crates.
 
How are you getting things into the airlock to begin with? Don't you have the cap on it?? What's in the airlock will get 'nasty' no matter what it's installed into. Doesn't matter if it's in a stopper in a carboy, or lid of a bucket.

I used the Better Bottle (and that type) of carboy for my batches (of beer) early on. I used the glass carboys for my mead batches. IME, buckets were a PITA top get the lid off, once closed properly. IF the one you're using is sucking back when you touch it, you're doing something wrong.

Personally, I use neither if at all possible. I have adapted/converted sanke kegs that I ferment in. MUCH happier with those. Two, stronger than you, handles built into each fermenter. 100% light tight, and zero chance of air getting through it. Zero chance of breaking, or melting. Plus, I don't need to put them into anything else to safely carry them (like many people do for either glass, or plastic, carboys. Chances are extremely high you'll NEVER see me use a bucket fermenter ever again. If I was given one, I'd find another use for it. Probably to catch grain from my mill. :D
 
For me, it's the weight. They are easier to haul around, and whoever suggested the milk crate idea was spot on in terms of moving them.
 
They are higher quality than buckets but not breakable like glass. I pick them up by the top and that isn't flexible like the sides so it doesn't suck in through the airlock
 
I have 2 5 gallon and 2 6 gallon and they pretty much collect dust since I started doing everything in the primary only but I do like them as they don't break and are much lighter than glass. I am actually going to be using one this weekend to rack my holiday ale into for bulk conditioning a couple months.

As for suck back, yes that can happen if you squeeze the vessel. Put it in a milk crate as suggested and use that to move it, eliminates squeezing the plastic:)
 
+1 for milk crates. Should use a milk crate for glass too, but at least glass doesn't flex. Milk crates just make carrying carboys easier no matter if they're glass or plastic.
 
i have three kids and the idea of them knocking off a glass carboy, or any way glass could break is the reason for me. I like them better aesthetically than buckets, but use both. i will admit, they are harder to clean than buckets
 
+1 to using milk crates if you have to move them.

I don't have much of a need to move them once I have racked beer/applewine into them. The only times I really move my fermenters are from brew area to fermenting area, and then later from fermenting area to bottling/kegging area. An easy solution, if you don't have spare milk crates lying around, is to not put the airlock on till you get the better bottle in place where it will remain for fermenting. If you're concerned about nasties floating into the neck, just put a piece of sanitized tinfoil over it, but I wouldn't bother unless you're moving a long distance.
 
I haven't moved my fermenter, for sending the beer into serving keg (I don't go direct to bottle anymore, but I do bottle some off of keg), in some time now. Easy to do a CO2 push, for me at least. So, fermenting keg goes from brewing area to fermenting area (basement) then won't move again until it's going into the kitchen to be cleaned up after the beer was transferred to serving kegs. :D :rockin:

You can do this simply with an orange carboy cap, racking cane, and CO2 source (goes into the off-center nipple on the cap).
 
I haven't noticed any one mention that they are great insurance for not having to calling EMS. At 73 I don't use glass anymore. Enough said.
Ed
 
I just ordered 2 better bottles based solely on the fact that handling the big heavy glass carboy scares the hell out of me every time I touch it! "Better" safe than sorry! (That should be their motto!) Lol
 
I understand the want to not use glass, but moving an ale-pale is so easy, why not use that?
 
I like to let my kids do the heavy lifting when needed. I don't let them handle the glass carboys. No need to be poking your better bottle - just leave it be. And put a solid bung in it when you need to move it.
 
The suck back problem is completely eliminated if you use Better-Bottle's PET, DryTrap airlock. It uses a simple ball check assembly that will not allow anything to get in when the BB deforms when you pick it up.
 
1776 said:
I understand the want to not use glass, but moving an ale-pale is so easy, why not use that?
Click to expand...

Because an ale pail just isn't as much fun to watch. I have nearly forgotten batches in an ale pail - going 2 months before bottling. That has never happened with a carboy.
 
what is the double bubble airlock? Is that the same as the S shaped airlock? I use both the conventional and the "S" shaped airlocks with no issues.. but, agreed, the plastic bottles do deform.. but never enough to suck back liquid into the FV.

I now put my fermenter on the sink counter in my spare bathroom. Had my wife sew a dark towel cover with drawstring on top to block light and help in temp control. No need to move it.. except to the edge of the counter when I'm ready to siphon into the bottling bucket.
 
1776 said:
I understand the want to not use glass, but moving an ale-pale is so easy, why not use that?
Click to expand...

Because they scratch easily (and those scratches can then harbor bacteria), too much headspace to be useful for secondary without risking oxidation, can't see fermentation, can't easily take a gravity sample without disturbing CO2 blanket... I'm sure there are other reasons.

I prefer the glass carboys.
 
If you are worried about the liquid getting sucked back in either use a star san solution or use vodka or some other hard liquor...that's what I do and don't worry if some gets sucked in...
 
I just take the airlock off when I move it. I put a sanitized foam cup over the top so nothing can get in the hole. Not a big deal. I really like my Better Bottles...
 
Stauffbier said:
I just take the airlock off when I move it. I put a sanitized foam cup over the top so nothing can get in the hole. Not a big deal. I really like my Better Bottles...
Click to expand...

That's what I do as well. When moving the better bottle, I'll remove the air lock, place my thumb over the bung hole, and then lift it out of my fermentation freezer.
 
Why are people dismissing that Better-Bottle addressed the "suck back" issue caused by deformation when lifted at the very same time they introduced the Better-Bottles themselves with there own DryTrap airlock with built in check valve?
 
johnsma22 said:
Why are people dismissing that Better-Bottle addressed the "suck back" issue caused by deformation when lifted at the very same time they introduced the Better-Bottles themselves with there own DryTrap airlock with built in check valve?
Click to expand...

What is the price of that DryTap valve? $20 or something like that? Compared to less the $1 plastic airlock.

Now, from what I have read the DryTap valve greatly reduces O2 permeability as most of the oxygen coming through a BB comes through the airlock solution; dissolving in the liquid in the airlock and coming out of solution on the other end.
 
RmikeVT said:
What is the price of that DryTap valve? $20 or something like that? Compared to less the $1 plastic airlock..
Click to expand...

Never claimed it was cheap, only that the DryTrap air lock completely eliminates the "suck back" issue. It's an unfair comparison between the DryTrap and a typical plastic airlock, as the former does what the latter cannot.
 
There are various ways to prevent suckback.

Milk crate
S shaped airlock
antibacteria filter

I have used all of these personally, and I don't even sweat it when there is some suckback, as long as it isn't adding star-san to the beer. A bit of air isn't a big deal unless you are extremely anal about your process, in which case I suggest you ferment in a corney and transfer using CO2...

A BB deforming is such a minimal concern to me with so many options to work around or prevent it.
 
Use milk crates, stop poking the fermenter, and use only vodka in your airlock. If you get suckback, you have vodka in your beer, would rather have that since you won't taste it then starsan. I actually lift and carry my better bottles by the neck, so I get no suck back, I must be strong or something!
 
just take airlock out put thumb on hole theres enough co2 in bottle so a little o2 wont matter
 
I have used a bucket a few times for a short primary when using fruit then always into a glass carboy. A minor tink sound near the neck of the carboy from barely bumping when washing, or moving, or putting in storage, and and pretty soon a crack. Lost 2 carboys so far, no bodily damage tho, just cracks. I got in on the BB buy 1 get 1 free last week, looking fwd to trying them for the first time. I am a bit nervous about keeping them clean without scratching, and plasticy taste in my beer. I have an s airlock, and use vodka. I think the 3 piece locks are easier to clean tho. I also have some cornies and may try one for secondary/aging, but I like to see whats going on in the primary.
 
meadmazer said:
I am a bit nervous about keeping them clean without scratching, and plasticy taste in my beer.
Click to expand...

those are old myths. people get infections when fermenting in a bucket and assume it must have been a scratch rather than the many other sources; lactic bacteria from the mouth, wild yeast floating on dust in the air, siphon hoses and so on. i clean my better bottles with a bottle brush and i'm sure i have scratches in my buckets too (i ferment sour beers in all of my fermentors), i've had zero infections in 2 yrs of brewing.
 
Golddiggie said:
How are you getting things into the airlock to begin with? Don't you have the cap on it?? What's in the airlock will get 'nasty' no matter what it's installed into. Doesn't matter if it's in a stopper in a carboy, or lid of a bucket.

I used the Better Bottle (and that type) of carboy for my batches (of beer) early on. I used the glass carboys for my mead batches. IME, buckets were a PITA top get the lid off, once closed properly. IF the one you're using is sucking back when you touch it, you're doing something wrong.

Personally, I use neither if at all possible. I have adapted/converted sanke kegs that I ferment in. MUCH happier with those. Two, stronger than you, handles built into each fermenter. 100% light tight, and zero chance of air getting through it. Zero chance of breaking, or melting. Plus, I don't need to put them into anything else to safely carry them (like many people do for either glass, or plastic, carboys. Chances are extremely high you'll NEVER see me use a bucket fermenter ever again. If I was given one, I'd find another use for it. Probably to catch grain from my mill. :D
Click to expand...

Love fermenting in kegs!

Lifting full Better Bottles used to throw my back, purely the awkwardness.

I now lift the cornies over my head to shake for aeration or carbonating. No back pain.
 
cheezydemon3 said:
Love fermenting in kegs!

Lifting full Better Bottles used to throw my back, purely the awkwardness.

I now lift the cornies over my head to shake for aeration or carbonating. No back pain.
Click to expand...

I'm using 1/4bbl sanke kegs for most of my beers (I have used the 50L sanke for one batch so far) to ferment in. Got three occupied right now. One can be emptied into serving kegs any time now. The second one should be due for transfer anytime over the next two weeks. Last one has my TripSix in it, so it's going to be in there for a while. :D
 

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