American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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I usually (ok, never!) come back to a recipe that I've happily stolen from someone on here to kneel at their feet and shower them in accolades, but damn... I can't stop drinking this stuff. It's got a permanent home on tap over here. It's got great head retention and lacing, and the aroma lasts through the last sip. My pint glasses and I thank you, good sir.
 
Everyone loved this here so much I am picking up the grain bill today to make it again this weekend. First time I have ever made the same beer twice. It will be interesting to see if I have consistency yet in my brewing.
 
Brewed this two weeks ago. Still have it in primary brcause decided to dry hop today. This still has krausen on top. Does this seem strange to anyone else?

This is my first all grain and seems to have come out very well.

OG 1.05
Gravity today 1.08

Excited to bottle next weekend!
 
Brewed this as my first all grain here too. Everything seemed to go off about as well as I could've expected (with the odd spill, curse and lessons learned along the way!). Had to substitute Munich instead of the Vienna so not sure how much impact it will have on the outcome but hope to make it again with ingredients listed.

Mine still had some krausen on top after two weeks as well but gravity was stable so decided to rack it. Have it carbing in the keg now and can't wait to give it a try!

Thanks Ed for the recipe and thanks to all the other brewers for the tips and advice provided on this board! Think I may give your Kolsch a shot for my next brew.
 
Thanks Ed! Still have a little haze but great.

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Looking at brewing this weekend, getting really excited about it! I was thinking about doing my first 10 gallon batch for this. I can only ferment with 2 different buckets or carboys and only one of those can be in my fermentation chamber, so the one will be at 68 but the other will turn out probably a little warmer like around 70-72. How will you guys think this will effect the flavor of this beer. Think it will be worth it or just stick with the 5 gallon?
 
Looking at brewing this weekend, getting really excited about it! I was thinking about doing my first 10 gallon batch for this. I can only ferment with 2 different buckets or carboys and only one of those can be in my fermentation chamber, so the one will be at 68 but the other will turn out probably a little warmer like around 70-72. How will you guys think this will effect the flavor of this beer. Think it will be worth it or just stick with the 5 gallon?

I say do it. Sounds like a cool experiment. You may like the one that fermented higher better.
 
I say do it. Sounds like a cool experiment. You may like the one that fermented higher better.

Alright thanks i will be trying this. Just putting the recipe in beersmith (still trying to learn all the base grains and malts) but what 2 row pale malt is it, is it Briess, US, Bel, UK? And as well what is the 10L malt? sorry total rookie question but when putting it in beersmith it confuses me on what exact malt to use!
thanks guys
 
jakedasnake said:
Alright thanks i will be trying this. Just putting the recipe in beersmith (still trying to learn all the base grains and malts) but what 2 row pale malt is it, is it Briess, US, Bel, UK? And as well what is the 10L malt? sorry total rookie question but when putting it in beersmith it confuses me on what exact malt to use!
thanks guys

Briess is a maltster. 2 row is a base malt. More than likely you has us 2 row. 10l is a caramel malt.
 
Mine's all gone and the second to last glass was the clearest and best tasting. The last was a yeast mess.
 
After 2+ years of extract beers, made my first all grain from this recipe. While I did make a few mistakes, it is the best beer I've ever made!
I took the plunge and did a 10 gallon batch. Probably not smart for my first all grain batch. Biggest surprises to all grain brewing is the time waiting for water to get to the right temps. My main mistake was opening the valve all the way on my new 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler and not cracking it open while sparging. My OG was 1.055 so I wasn't too far off. I ended up with about 8.5 gallons so I missed my water levels too. That's ok, because I ended up with a FG of 1.003, which with my Texas temps, put me at 6.86% ABV. I know, I messed it up pretty good, but holy cow is this thing good. I did a burst carb with 35 lbs of CO2 for 24 hours, then vented 3-4 times the next day while it was on 10 lbs of pressure. After 2 full days at 10 lbs, it keeps getting better and better.
Not sure if I'll understand everything about carbing my 5 gallon corny kegs. But did I say how good it is? I've got a dozen or so buddies coming over tomorrow for my next brew night. Probably end up doing a 5 gallon batch of a honey brown ale or maybe a saison. (along with ribs, brats, and burgers!) The guys want a darker beer, so we'll probably brew that one tomorrow. I got all the stuff for a saison, so I'll probably do that one next week on my own. Running my kegs dry draws the scorn from my neighborhood buddies! I found a new homebrew store in Fort Worth! Texas Brewing, Inc over in Haltom City helped me more than they know! Thanks Patrick! I'm done with extract brewing. Thanks EdWort for this great beer recipe (promise I'll do it right next time!)
 
Like so many others, I popped my AG cherry with Bee Cave Haus Pale Ale :)

I decided to do a 2.5 gallon BIAB for my first run. Everything went pretty well (for a first time anyway..) but there is a lot of room for improvement.
The good:
- Had the procedure down pretty well (mentally, at least!) so there were no real surprises.
- I hit my mash temp almost dead on. I dropped down to 148F after dough-in, but a few minutes on the burner had me up to 152F. The pot went into the oven (set on lowest setting) and stayed between 151-152F the whole time :)
- Sparge went well, although my sparge pot had too much water so I had to empty some out to fit the bag.
The less-good:
- HBS was out of Cascade so I had to sub Centennial
- HBS was out of Nottingham so I had to sub Wyeast 1274
- OG came in low at 1.044
- Brewhouse efficiency was only at 54%...This is probably because I have an electric stove and a concave brewpot :-/

I assume my efficiency will increase with practice. From what I understand, I can increase my grain bill a bit to compensated for the lower efficiency. I am also pretty surprised that I barely got 2.5 gallons in the fermenter. I started with 4.75 pre-boil and didn't have as much evaporation as I had hoped. It is still a good size for me since I am the only beer drinker in the house, but we like to do our best :)

I also had a LOT more trub in the bottom of the pot. I have done partial-mash before. Is this just a result of doing an all grain batch? I also didn't have a filter on the end of my tubing so I avoided digging too deep into the bottom of the pot (because of the trub). I didn't want a ton of junk in the bottom of the fermenter.

Finally, my fermentation is moving slowly after 12 hours (but it IS moving). The Nottingham really takes off, but I guess the Wyeast is slower to get going, or just slower to do the job. Fermentation temp is between 64-68F. I have the primary sitting in a tub of water/ice to try to keep the temp more constant.

Any comments and helpful advice/ words of encouragement would be appreciated!
 
Long time extract brewer, first time AG. Made this exact recipe and dry hopped in keg with 1oz Cascade and 1oz Zythos. This is far superior to any extract beer I've ever made. I missed my mash temps (too low), beer came out cloudy (unconverted starch is my guess), but none the less is amazing. I've brought it to the office to sample with coworkers and I've gotten the classic "If this was available in stores, I'd buy it".

The dry hopping gives it huge floral notes associated to IPA's without the bitterness or high abv. It's a smooth hoppy pale ale.

Great brew and will definitely do again with the dry hopping.
 
Well the first keg of this brew sure didn't last long (anyone else have that problem? haha) so I'm back at it for another brew today. With a few other AG brews now under my belt since my first attempt I'm trying to get my system down.

I'm using Beersmith now and trying to get it all tweaked properly for my set up so I can made adjustments. I've got my equipment profile in and have made sense of most of it but one thing that I'm still unsure of is the Mash Details. If I was to follow Ed's directions, anyone know what the right setting is? Single Infusion seems to have a lot of options and I'm not sure what's accurate or if it even makes a difference....

Right now I have it set as Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge. Basically what I did last time after preheating my cooler mashtun was dumped in 3.5 gal of 175 degree water, waited for it to get down to about 170, then added the grains to hit approx 152 for mash temp (first time I lost way more heat than I expected and had to add more hot water). After 60 mins, I added 5 quarts of 175 (actually I scaled back both sparge waters to account for the extra hot water I added at mash) and began vorlauf. Drained, then added remaining 175 sparge water, let it sit for 5 mins (Actually, that's another question .... how long, if at all, should I let it sit before draining ?) , vorlauf and drain.

Thanks for any advice / suggestions. Great forum! Jay
 
jay, you're on the right track. This is a great beer for getting used to the AG process.

On the batch sparge "rest" 10 minutes seems appropriate, just to let the grain settle down.
 
Thanks Ed! I can't wait to see how she turns out! I brewed this yesterday doing my usual BIAB and No Chill Method. I also followed Pol's No Chill Hop Chart. I'll pitch sometime today and put her in the fermentation chamber. I'll report back the results after kegging in a few weeks. Just wanted to give the other BIAB and No Chillers something to look forward to. Oh yeah... This wasn't my first all grain, but it was my first time crushing my own grain bill with a corona mill. I can finally do it all. :mug:
 
philrose said:
jay, you're on the right track. This is a great beer for getting used to the AG process.

On the batch sparge "rest" 10 minutes seems appropriate, just to let the grain settle down.

Thanks very much Phil, sounds good!
 
This is my second batch. The first one was awesome just a little too cloudy.
So this one when the FG bottomed out I cold crashed it to 34oF for 5 days then slowly warmed it 60oF and bottled it. It was really clear after the cold crash. I conditioned it in the bottles for a week and tried it. Wow this is even better than the last.
Has anyone else cold crashed this or other brews?
Does it always help to clear the beer?

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I made this twice before, went QUICK both times! I'm going to try to add some grains of paradise at the last few minutes of the boil.
 
just getting done with this one, nailed the gravity and looks good. hope this turns out,need a good pale ale to keep around.
 
New brewer here. This was my 2nd AG brew. I love it. At only 3 weeks old its a bit young but still delicious. Thanks for the recipe EdWort. This will be my Haus Ale too. Awesome beer.
 
This was my first AG (BIAB). 4 weeks of primary + 3 weeks bottle conditioning and to be honest, I didn't understand why this beer is so revered around here. It was decent but not remarkable. Fast forward a couple months and as I work my way through the last few bottles, I'm going to really miss it. This stuff gets sooooo much better with age! The bready Vienna goodness really shines now. I'm officially declaring myself a member of the Haus Pale Ale fan club!
 
Just cracked my first bottle of this (2 weeks primary ferment only and 2 in the bottle so far) and it's amazing! Already carbed great and doesn't taste too green at all. Wife loves it too and she's pretty picky about my homebrews. Thanks Ed!
 
Brewing this up tonight... Picked up an extra oz of cascade to dry hop. Any thoughts on adding chinook for bittering? Or even aroma? Maybe at 5 mins. Or even a hop stand?
 
Brewed this one yesterday. It was my second brew on my outside setup. I put 5.5 gallons in the fermenter and this morning it's bubbling away! Very excited. Thank you EdWort.
 
So tomorrow I'm brewing this with MO as the base grain ,centennial for bittering and cascade for aroma. I guess its not really the same recipe but this is where the inspiration came from.
 
Was gonna brew this today but I'm a bit short on cascades. Anyone had any luck subbing magnum in for a portion of the bittering? I've still got a bunch of homegrown handy.
 
Bittering without alpha ratings for hops is unpredictable, especially on the typically high alpha varieties like magnum.

You can give it a go, but you can't really guess at the results. Might be a sweet, unbalanced beer or a puckeringly bitter beer. This recipe is fairly light on the hop budget, seems rational to me to pick up some other hop for bittering.

If you're looking for a good use for those magnums, IIRC Sierra Nevada mixes them with citras as a dry hop for their torpedo ipa. This is less dependent on the alpha acid ratings that homegrown hops lack.

But hey, for all I know, you could have dialed into those hops with some method I don't even know about or sent them for testing or something. So I might just be an ass.
 
Your not an ass. I didn't need a huge amount and going to the lhbs wasn't an option (limited transportation). However, I only needed a little boost so I went with 7g. I figure if the aa is as low as 10% i'm within an ibu of target and if 15% i'm only over by a couple at worst.

On the other hand I overboiled by about half a gallon so it's going to be a bit stronger anyway (1.063 unadjusted).
 
If you have another pot or some extra buckets, you could easily do a BIAB mash. Dough in at 1.25 qts/lb in a 5 gallon bakery bucket (after washing) with bag, then dunk in your kettle for a sparge, then add the mash water back in. do as much as you can fit in your kettle without boilover/not boiling off enough.
 
MirImage said:
Is there an easy way to calculate how much of what I would need (grain bill/water).

I dialed my numbers pretty good by now after BIAB for 2 years. But everyones set up is different. I mash in 6 gal of water and then sparge or dunk-sparge in 2 gal (i get better efficency this way compare to traditional full volume BIAB). This leaves me with 5.5 gal post boil on average 10-12 lbs grain bill. For high gravity brews or 90 min boils I just sparge more, like 2.5-3 gal. Works great! You can mash thicker, start with 5 gal if you have 8 gal pot and then dunk sparge or sparge in to separate vessel
 
I used to have the same questions since I have an 8 g pot and do BIAB. I've done about 10 batches and have it down pretty well. I'm not too anal about volumes and my gravities aren't 100% spot on as a result, but I'm sure you could get them there. I basically heat about 6 to 6.5 g of water to my strike temp. I then take my pot and put in a plastc keg tub lined with towels, add my bag and grain, and let sit 60-90 minutes (temp drops a degree or two max). Towards the end, I heat about 2 g of water to about 180 in another pot. When the 60-90 min mash is done, I take the grain bag and put it in my bottling bucket and poor the 2g of heated water over it, stir it up and put a cover on it for 10 min. Meahwhile, I've put my kettle back on the burner and start heating it up. Once I add the 2 g of [sparge/mashout][don't know what we're calling this], I have about 7 g of wort. Be careful not to boil over because you're near the top at this point. I haven't entered any competitions, but the repeat visitors to the house prove it can't be that bad. Also did a triangle test with my dad and bro on a Chimay blue clone and they couldn't pick it out, so you can definitely do high gravity beers (just might be a little less than 5g). Good luck.
 
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